48x39x14 shop build

/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#161  
Love the ceiling! Are you going to put a porch or awning over the man door? We could never get away with out one because of the snow here.

Thanks.

No plans for anything over the doors.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#162  
I've been using Hormann Doors and Openers for 25 years in Austria... so far so good.

These are my first. I am impressed with the quality. Well sealed at the panel joints. Really like the rollers. Smoothest operating doors I've owned. I'd have to look for certain, but I think they were just under $2K each.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#163  
Here's some current boring electrical conduit pics. I used quadplex deep boxes. Plenty of plug ins and plenty of room inside the box for wiring.

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/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#164  
I stole the wire trough idea from a large commercial shop build project that I visited. The troughs there had dozens of conduits coming out of them.

20181104_120440.jpg


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/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#165  
Love the ceiling! Are you going to put a porch or awning over the man door? We could never get away with out one because of the snow here.


I guess I kinda lied..... I put an awning over Willard's door. :)



20181104_120058.jpg
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build #166  
Ed Dedic,

Took anothe look at your doors. They must be 10x10?

I was told by Hormann that I could have used jackshaft openers if my doors were only 10ft tall. Or if I had 16ft ceilings I could have used different track at the elbow and ceiling. The other track would park the open door at more of an angle rather than horizontally flat. This would have the door trying to roll closed all the time and elimate the slack cable problem.

I wonder why-the Lifemaster guy spec’d a heavier duty version ( than the ones on my house garage doors) for my 12x16 steel door
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#167  
I wonder why-the Lifemaster guy spec’d a heavier duty version ( than the ones on my house garage doors) for my 12x16 steel door

I don't remember what model mine are. They are much heavier duty than Ed's. My Son has three like Ed's, they work fine on his 10x10 doors.

Friend of mine is building a large shop. They are using Liftmaster units similar in size to mine. But they turn the torsion spring shaft via gears and a bicycle chain. They mount on the wall a couple feet below the shaft. They also use a "buggy spring" looking affair that puts downward pressure on the doors when they are full open. They are 10x12 doors.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build #170  
Ed Dedic,

Took another look at your doors. They must be 10x10?

I was told by Hormann that I could have used jackshaft openers if my doors were only 10ft tall. Or if I had 16ft ceilings I could have used different track at the elbow and ceiling. The other track would park the open door at more of an angle rather than horizontally flat. This would have the door trying to roll closed all the time and eliminate the slack cable problem.

Yes, my doors are 10'W x 9'H. My ceilings are 10' as I have a 2 bdrm apartment above. I never heard of a slack issue with the cable. I have a cable tensioner thing on each door cable that is connected electronically into the system. To be honest, not sure what it does, if anything but I do remember the installer mentioning it. Looks like you could have done the LJ8900W for up to 180 Sq Ft of door.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build #171  
ovrszd,

All this talk about garage doors, I lost my head a bit and forgot to tell you how great your shop is. I agree with Citydude, I love the ceiling too. My general shop is 28x32, wood shop is 20 x 20 and metal shop is 12x28. All walls have 1/2" OSB covered with 1/2" drywall. Like everyone says, should have made it bigger. I love the industrial look of galvanized conduit. I had the electricians wire my mechanical room with conduit.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build #172  
I don't remember what model mine are. They are much heavier duty than Ed's. My Son has three like Ed's, they work fine on his 10x10 doors.

Friend of mine is building a large shop. They are using Liftmaster units similar in size to mine. But they turn the torsion spring shaft via gears and a bicycle chain. They mount on the wall a couple feet below the shaft. They also use a "buggy spring" looking affair that puts downward pressure on the doors when they are full open. They are 10x12 doors.

I have that buggy contraption on my small door, I think because it is only 7'H x 8'W and I wanted it to and track against the ceiling. It angles away from the wall, then curves, goes level with the ceiling and bumps the buggy spring thing. The two 10'Wx9'H doors do not have this contraption.

IMG_6337.JPG
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#173  
But whats up with the two plumbing 45's?

Had to think for a minute. To get the conduits to pass I had to use 45s. Poor planning on my part...
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#174  
Yes, my doors are 10'W x 9'H. My ceilings are 10' as I have a 2 bdrm apartment above. I never heard of a slack issue with the cable. I have a cable tensioner thing on each door cable that is connected electronically into the system. To be honest, not sure what it does, if anything but I do remember the installer mentioning it. Looks like you could have done the LJ8900W for up to 180 Sq Ft of door.

The tensioner detects slack and slows the opener to prevent a tangle.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build #175  
These are my first. I am impressed with the quality. Well sealed at the panel joints. Really like the rollers. Smoothest operating doors I've owned. I'd have to look for certain, but I think they were just under $2K each.

When I bought my first pair in Austria... I was taken back on the price... but, then everything costs more there... then I really took a look and began to appreciate the quality... also the design doesn't have pinch points like my sectional in Oakland... the entire door and opener operate smooth and quiet... plus weatherstriped and insulated.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build #176  
I am very early in building a shop. Finalizing dirt work soon. So what is cheaper about conduit? I kinda want to use it, but didn't want to spend extra for no real reason.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build #177  
How did you go about running all the wire?

Ran it as your hung the conduit?

Pushed it through after conduit was hung?

Pulled a string?

I am doing all exposed conduit in my shop also, simply for the easy access and ability to change things, plus I love the look.. I’m going with white tin walls also.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build #178  
pull the string with a vacuum cleaner. pull the wire with the string.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build #179  
I am very early in building a shop. Finalizing dirt work soon. So what is cheaper about conduit? I kinda want to use it, but didn't want to spend extra for no real reason.

Conduit isn't necessarily cheaper, but it gives you flexibility to change or add to the electrical system very easily. My experience (mistake) as in putting all the wiring behind the OSB on my walls and above the metal ceiling. Now I have all these openings in the walls and ceiling for outlets and fixtures which compromise the insulation and were very time consuming to install. It all would have gone much faster with conduit.
 
/ 48x39x14 shop build
  • Thread Starter
#180  
I am very early in building a shop. Finalizing dirt work soon. So what is cheaper about conduit? I kinda want to use it, but didn't want to spend extra for no real reason.

My supplier said it's cheaper to run 3 individual wires than Romax. Said less labor is involved which lowers installation costs. I cannot verify that. I was already leaning toward conduit. That's what I used in my current shop. So I didn't do any price comparison.
 

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