48x39x14 shop build

[ovrszd]

Thanks for the info on the doors.

Why did you run all your electrical in conduit and not inside the all cavities?

Because I always end up adding something later. And, my supplier said it's cheaper.

Conduit is quite a challenge. Just when I think I've got it, I miss a bend by 2-3".

 

[ededic]

Eddie, the doors are 12x12. The doors are insulated and lined with steel.

They each have Liftmaster trolley openers. I wanted torsion spring openers. Even went so far as to call Hormann about it. They discouraged it. Said they have had a lot of problems with the cables momentarily getting slack and tangling.

I have remotes for both openers. They too are Liftmaster. The range is completely unacceptable. If outside you actually have to walk up to the door and place the remote on the glass before they'll signal the doors to open. Went back to the distributor and they are sending an antenna extender kit. They claim the range will be measured in yards then. They said if it doesn't work satisfactorily I don't have to pay for the kit. If it fixes the problem I'll get a second one.

I have (3) Hormann Orion 3200 garage doors in my new shop. I also have (3) Liftmaster openers that are the LM8500 jackshaft drive.

Sorry about the trouble you have with openers.

I use my built-in Homelink openers in both GM vehicles and key phob openers on the tractor and gator good range and only a few times did the Homelink require a second push and hold to activate. I have special adapters from Liftmaster for my Homelink openers as each of them are different for my vehicles due to their age. I also use the MQLink for iPhone access to open, close and monitor from anywhere.



You can see that the jackshaft works from either side so you can mount them on whatever side is convenient. The lights are remote and plug into outlets that would have been installed for a traditional garage door opener. I use the second outlet plug for the Homelink module for each truck.

Lessons learned. Run conduit for your garage door opener wires. This was messy and while I was able to tuck it in most areas it is not what I would have done had I planned for it. Hence the plastic wireway down the wall by the door. Ugh...

 

[EddieWalker]

Because I always end up adding something later. And, my supplier said it's cheaper.

Conduit is quite a challenge. Just when I think I've got it, I miss a bend by 2-3".

The reason that I used OSB on my shop walls was that I screwed them on, so I could remove them when I needed to. So far, I've had to do that above my panel box to add two new lines. Just unscrew the wood and run the wires inside the wall to the attic, then to where I wanted it to go. I also modified my drain line for my AC and had to remove a section of OSB to get to the back side of the unit. It was fast and easy by just unscrewing it.

I understand some of the reasons that electricians like to run conduit, but cheaper isn't one of them.

Are you going to paint your conduit to blend in with your walls?

By the way, the walls look fantastic with the paint on them!!!!

 

[ovrszd]

Your doors look just like mine. That's the opener I wanted

I ran the electrical to my openers in conduit. Ran conduit on the ceiling between the two doors to the wall and down the wall to the opener controls. Can only see the control wires for 18" between the motor boxes to the conduit box. I wired my openers using a wall duplex box and cord. I wouldn't even have to turn off the power to remove or repair an opener.

 

[ovrszd]

The reason that I used OSB on my shop walls was that I screwed them on, so I could remove them when I needed to. So far, I've had to do that above my panel box to add two new lines. Just unscrew the wood and run the wires inside the wall to the attic, then to where I wanted it to go. I also modified my drain line for my AC and had to remove a section of OSB to get to the back side of the unit. It was fast and easy by just unscrewing it.

I understand some of the reasons that electricians like to run conduit, but cheaper isn't one of them.

Are you going to paint your conduit to blend in with your walls?

By the way, the walls look fantastic with the paint on them!!!!

Thanks Eddie.

Good idea about the screws!!!! I used an air stapler. Can't think of a reason I'd hafta remove any since there's nothing in my walls.

Imagine that, my supplier misled me about material costs.

No plans to paint the conduit.

 

[KennyG]

I like the conduit. Wish I had done that

 

[ovrszd]

I like the conduit. Wish I had done that

Thanks Kenny.

I like it too. I was OCD about running it. Tried to keep the spacing between runs equal. Carried a small piece of OSB in my tool belt for a guide. I've got a couple short run elbows that aren't quite right but I'm the only person that sees it. My own worst critic....

 

[ovrszd]

Ed Dedic,

Took anothe look at your doors. They must be 10x10?

I was told by Hormann that I could have used jackshaft openers if my doors were only 10ft tall. Or if I had 16ft ceilings I could have used different track at the elbow and ceiling. The other track would park the open door at more of an angle rather than horizontally flat. This would have the door trying to roll closed all the time and elimate the slack cable problem.

 

[Citydude]

Love the ceiling! Are you going to put a porch or awning over the man door? We could never get away with out one because of the snow here.

 

[ultrarunner]

I've been using Hormann Doors and Openers for 25 years in Austria... so far so good.