My NX5510H

[DieselBound]

So, I went out and did a bunch of measuring of the loader. I didn't write stuff down and I don't have actual numbers. Didn't think it was necessary as I was just looking to see if there are differences. What I found out, as I wondered whether it could be an issue of reach rather than of height (take something on an even plane and pull/push one side out and it can appear to be lower/higher than the other end), is that it appears that the lower pivots on the arms (out toward the ends of the arms) aren't welded on the arms at an equal distance. The right pivot is mounted further FORWARD, which, because the loader arm slopes down results in a drop. This results in an illusion that that right side is even lower than it is if measuring solely from the ground to the edge of the bucket. I don't have any level surface around (nothing paved even, unless I go out on the road and I'm not going to do that), so measuring the bucket height isn't possible.

bgruss75, if you get a chance could you do some measuring on your loader arms? I'm thinking measure both sides of the bucket to similar points on the tractor (or back on the arms themselves, but past the curl pivots). Also, measure the distance from the lower curl pivots to say the torque tube (pick a spot). This issue might only be with newer machines (I'm figuring that yours is newer such as is mine).

If others are up for this game they can measure around and see if they spot any issues with their loader.

 

[bgruss75]

Granted I have a different model loader, but here's the view while in motion pulling a spring tooth harrow.
View attachment 484825View attachment 484826
It looks pretty straight to me. I think the crooked buckets being shown here need some dealer/Kioti attention. If I had to look at Bgruss's view all day, I would have to be institutionalized. Good luck and let us know what you find out.

Wasn't able to mess around today with it. Figured I'd disconnect it and reinstall to see if that alleviates the issue. I'd take my crooked loader view with your background any day. Cathedral Valley?

 

[cat fever]

Wasn't able to mess around today with it. Figured I'd disconnect it and reinstall to see if that alleviates the issue. I'd take my crooked loader view with your background any day. Cathedral Valley?

Thanks, I get lots of TBNers liking my view.
I live 30 miles west of Salt Lake City and about 8 miles south of the Great Salt Lake.

 

[bgruss75]

So, I went out and did a bunch of measuring of the loader. I didn't write stuff down and I don't have actual numbers. Didn't think it was necessary as I was just looking to see if there are differences. What I found out, as I wondered whether it could be an issue of reach rather than of height (take something on an even plane and pull/push one side out and it can appear to be lower/higher than the other end), is that it appears that the lower pivots on the arms (out toward the ends of the arms) aren't welded on the arms at an equal distance. The right pivot is mounted further FORWARD, which, because the loader arm slopes down results in a drop. This results in an illusion that that right side is even lower than it is if measuring solely from the ground to the edge of the bucket. I don't have any level surface around (nothing paved even, unless I go out on the road and I'm not going to do that), so measuring the bucket height isn't possible.

bgruss75, if you get a chance could you do some measuring on your loader arms? I'm thinking measure both sides of the bucket to similar points on the tractor (or back on the arms themselves, but past the curl pivots). Also, measure the distance from the lower curl pivots to say the torque tube (pick a spot). This issue might only be with newer machines (I'm figuring that yours is newer such as is mine).

If others are up for this game they can measure around and see if they spot any issues with their loader.

I could see (in my mind) how it'd be an illusion of bucket placement other than the lift arms. I'll be out in the shop tomorrow evening and can do some measuring. Think I'll load the bucket down also to see if it levels it off. I move 22 tons of crusher run the other day and didn't think to compare.

As for the screen mounting location you asked about, I put it mounted to the console in my direct frontal line of sight. I took the pic from my eye level to show it doesn't impair my view operationally.

I mounted the camera next to the right side rear marker lights. I was able to run the cable thru the same rubber boot and down into the cab. I did have to have a second pair of hands to push the cable thru while I spread the boot open.

 

[DieselBound]

After looking a bit more a pictures it's clear that the right arm IS drooping, it is physically lower than the left.

With the loader in the air, empty, and not touching anything (it was sitting overnight) I measured from the torque tube to the top of the brush guard. On the right side I measured 22 1/8" and on the left side I measured 22 5/8". That's a 1/2" difference! If the curl pivot is also a bit off then the two errors would, obviously, compound.

 

[DieselBound]

Ran through my list of issues with the dealer today. Also sent him another video on it leaking by way of only rain.

Had an interesting exchange with him regarding to grab hooks. I'd asked to have three mounted to the bucket and the tractor arrived with just one, in the middle of the bucket. Dealer said that they don't place them out toward the ends of the bucket anymore (why wasn't this noted when I placed my order?). I get it that there are safety issues: I've been running over 1,000 hrs on my B7800 with THREE grab hooks and have not had ANY issues. Anyway, I pointed out to him that Kioti puts reinforced metal on the buckets right our from the loader arms; why would they do this if they didn't expect people to be mounting hooks- what was the purpose of adding that extra bit of material? (and they short hose material such that their hoses are subjected to chaffing! - point is is that perhaps rather than welding on non-substantial metal to their buckets they could apply that cost toward lengthening a couple of hoses an inch or two)

Here's another look at the bucket and those reinforced bits:
View attachment 484795

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Ran through my list of issues with the dealer today. Also sent him another video on it leaking by way of only rain.

Had an interesting exchange with him regarding to grab hooks. I'd asked to have three mounted to the bucket and the tractor arrived with just one, in the middle of the bucket. Dealer said that they don't place them out toward the ends of the bucket anymore (why wasn't this noted when I placed my order?). I get it that there are safety issues: I've been running over 1,000 hrs on my B7800 with THREE grab hooks and have not had ANY issues. Anyway, I pointed out to him that Kioti puts reinforced metal on the buckets right our from the loader arms; why would they do this if they didn't expect people to be mounting hooks- what was the purpose of adding that extra bit of material? (and they short hose material such that their hoses are subjected to chaffing! - point is is that perhaps rather than welding on non-substantial metal to their buckets they could apply that cost toward lengthening a couple of hoses an inch or two)

Here's another look at the bucket and those reinforced bits:
View attachment 484795

FWIW, those triangle gussets are for reinforcing to eliminate cracking at the two high stress spots at the top two corners of the SSQA plate.

Your dealer is likely worried about people lifting from off-center with the loader torquing to the side laterally.

Even so, weight should be distributed which is why I have four hooks welded on my bucket so I have loop a chain onto two of the hooks at any given time. If you look at photos go my using a chain on my grapple, I generally do the same thing unless I don't have enough chain and the load is light.

The buckets also fit skid steers and the larger versions generate enough lifting force to potentially fold in non-reinforced buckets with a single hook in the middle. Folding your bucket with your tractor shouldn't be a concern, but if you have a 70ish hp or larger skid steer, be aware of the concern.

 

[countrybumpkin]

FWIW, those triangle gussets are for reinforcing to eliminate cracking at the two high stress spots at the top two corners of the SSQA plate.

I was going to say the same thing , but Eric beat me to it.

 

[DieselBound]

Ah ha! That's why I'm here, to learn from the smart folks

Maybe later I have someone weld on more hooks for me: I don't have a welder (maybe some day).

Tractor was gathered up and taken back to the dealer. I'd talked to the sales guy and then I got a call from the service manager. At this point they're really being responsive. They hadn't heard of the loader issue. Said that they have another loader there and they (may?) will put it on and see if there's any difference. When the guy picked up the tractor I watched as he dropped the loader on to the truck's deck and it was more than obvious that the right side was making contact a good couple inches before the other side.

 

[bgruss75]

Ran through my list of issues with the dealer today. Also sent him another video on it leaking by way of only rain.

Had an interesting exchange with him regarding to grab hooks. I'd asked to have three mounted to the bucket and the tractor arrived with just one, in the middle of the bucket. Dealer said that they don't place them out toward the ends of the bucket anymore (why wasn't this noted when I placed my order?). I get it that there are safety issues: I've been running over 1,000 hrs on my B7800 with THREE grab hooks and have not had ANY issues. Anyway, I pointed out to him that Kioti puts reinforced metal on the buckets right our from the loader arms; why would they do this if they didn't expect people to be mounting hooks- what was the purpose of adding that extra bit of material? (and they short hose material such that their hoses are subjected to chaffing! - point is is that perhaps rather than welding on non-substantial metal to their buckets they could apply that cost toward lengthening a couple of hoses an inch or two)

Here's another look at the bucket and those reinforced bits:
View attachment 484795

Dealer installed my grab hooks and where they did is where he says Kioti recommends they be installed. Dunno if the dealers are following Kioti policy or making up their own rules. Here's where mine were mounted:

I wasn't able to get some measurements, got home and went into carpentry mode building a workbench. I will recall the second day I had the tractor I commenced to did a shallow pit on some level ground. With each pass of the FEL I remember the right side digging deeper than the left. Dealer still has to deliver my 4-1 and the flail mower. I'm gonna suggest sending a service guy with the delivery to check it out. Hopefully he agrees to it. Glad to hear your dealer is gonna fix the discrepancies.

 

[DieselBound]

bgruss75, very much appreciate your input here. We're kind of running on the same track here. I'll mention to my dealer about the hooks: dealers and factory are clearly not on the same page here. I'd like to think that they would check with the Kioti rep, but my previous inquiry about turning radius conflicts (with Kioti's documentation- the great folks on this forum actually measured their turning radius and confirmed the published error) went unanswered (shop guy said a rep was right there when I called and he passed along the info- never heard back).

Confusion comes into play when one mentions "dealer" as this comprises sales personnel and shop personnel, two different sets of people with different understanding of things.

 

[holeycow]

The absolute worst place for a hook is tdc of the bucket.

The top outside edges are the strongest and least likely to bend the bucket.

Eric has his well placed. I wouldn't think of placing them any differently and I would still be more cautious with the middle two hooks.

 

[DieselBound]

Yeah, I didn't necessarily like the look of it. Having three hooks on my B7800's bucket (very stout bucket) I tend to mostly use multiple hooks at one time. I've used multiple hooks with individual chains to pick stuff up, helping balance stuff.

I'm just not following the dealer's logic on this at all.

As with anything, abuse can happen. With machinery you always have to pay close attention.

 

[DieselBound]

Got the tractor back from the dealer's today. Everything has been taken care of (except what appears to be a missing plastic access plate- dealer looked at other cab tractors and found the same thing; an insignificant issue in my mind).

The cab leak was from water finding its way between that cap on the front edge of the cab top and then following a wire (loom?). Still have rain here so I'll know right away how well it's sealed up.

Visor replaced and headliner cleaned up. Rear remote cable grommet replaced.

And, the BIG issue with the loader... It was replaced. I have a separate thread KL6010 - uneven loader arms for better visibility in case anyone else comes along with a similar issue. We're now on the level

View attachment 485451

bgruss75, if you need any help with getting your loader issue resolved have your dealer contact my dealer (I would figure that contacts with the respective reps would be made).

 

[DieselBound]

Got my hydraulic top link cylinder. Now trying to figure out the puzzle for connecting up the hoses. I think that the tractor side is pretty clear/simple. It's the cylinder side that I'm unsure of.

The cylinder has BSPP (female) connections. What's the best connection here to make a transition to 3/8" JIC? Something like this:

9059L | SAE 37° Flare (JIC) x BSPP Adjustable 90º Long Elbow

Or go with this and then have a 90 degree end on the hose itself?

Steel Fittings: JIC 37° Male x NPTF Male Pipe

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Got my hydraulic top link cylinder. Now trying to figure out the puzzle for connecting up the hoses. I think that the tractor side is pretty clear/simple. It's the cylinder side that I'm unsure of.

The cylinder has BSPP (female) connections. What's the best connection here to make a transition to 3/8" JIC? Something like this:

9059L | SAE 37° Flare (JIC) x BSPP Adjustable 90º Long Elbow

Or go with this and then have a 90 degree end on the hose itself?

Steel Fittings: JIC 37° Male x NPTF Male Pipe

Does your cylinder have a locking valve?

Fittings wise, the cylinder should have a machines face. I suggest a JIC to NPT with the JIC side having an O-ring to seal against the cylinder. NPT for the hose and then NPT 3/8 to 1/2" NPT adapter to a 1/2" NPT agg fitting to plug into your rear remotes. All of this stuff should be floating around at your local farm and fleet, Tractor Supply, or similar.

Your tractor may be slightly different, but the video below highlights a clearance problem and my solution to the problem with my hydraulic top link.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Got my hydraulic top link cylinder. Now trying to figure out the puzzle for connecting up the hoses. I think that the tractor side is pretty clear/simple. It's the cylinder side that I'm unsure of.

The cylinder has BSPP (female) connections. What's the best connection here to make a transition to 3/8" JIC? Something like this:

9059L | SAE 37° Flare (JIC) x BSPP Adjustable 90º Long Elbow

Or go with this and then have a 90 degree end on the hose itself?

Steel Fittings: JIC 37° Male x NPTF Male Pipe

I used male BSPP to male 1/2" NPT adapters. Might be 3/8 NPT (can't remember) but hose is 3/8".

 

[countrybumpkin]

36" 3/8 hose with 3/8 jic female ends, 1/2" mnpt to 3/8 jic male , 1/2" quick connect male , 3/8" bspp male x 3/8" jic male 90, doesn't have to be the long one like in your link. Al this for both hoses, check with surplus center should be a lot cheaper. I can get the list of part numbers later today that i used,if you want them

 

[DieselBound]

Here's a picture of the cylinder ports (note that on their [Surplus Center's] web site they show only plugs in the ports; they also state that they are 3/8"):



I measured those fitting and they measure 0.650 inches: did this after my first posting on this subject. That's for what's in the check valve as well as what is outside the check valve body side of that adapter. The vendor states BSPP threads for the ports. Not sure, however, whether they are talking the check valve or not. I don't know what those threads are on those adapters in the check valve, the exposed threads there.

country, I just picked the "long" 90 based on some pictures that I'd ran across out on the Internet. As you have this same cylinder I would defer to you on what works the best. What you note on the tractor side is, I think, pretty much what I'd figured (again, thanks!).

 

[DieselBound]

Been wondering... Can I verify that my dealer did, in fact, ballast my rear tires? Rotate valve stem down so it's close to the ground and then release the valve a bit? I can't recall what ballast was supposed to be used, other than it's not calcium chloride.