Electrical advice needed

[LD1]

Thanks...that explains why I'm seeing more 4 wire sets lately. Like I said, you almost need a picture of the plug to determine what it plugs into. My Menard's has a little bit of everything and it's easy to buy the wrong one (as it is for the cover plates that come with them).

Yep. Used to be 240v stuff didnt have 120v circuits. Ovens, water heaters, and dryers are three big ones in most homes. Ovens used to have analog dial timers, same with dryer, and water heaters had just the elements. Anymore, there is computer gadgets and led indicaters and digital displays on everything

 

[teejk]

Yep. Used to be 240v stuff didnt have 120v circuits. Ovens, water heaters, and dryers are three big ones in most homes. Ovens used to have analog dial timers, same with dryer, and water heaters had just the elements. Anymore, there is computer gadgets and led indicaters and digital displays on everything

Kinda funny that for those things you have to buy the big neutral wire...8ga 3 w/ground (4 wire set) is EXPENSIVE (been a while but $1/ft)? Wish the OP would come back to explain his machine!

 

[CobyRupert]

OP - I was at about that electric education level years ago. Remember, 120 hurts, 240 can kill. Try and get your set up OK'd and looked at by someone with a lot of experience. It reads like you don't have building inspectors. It's a lot cheaper to hire an electrician than a doctor in the emergency room.

.....actually....
If you touch one hot wire on a 240 circuit, you'd only get a 120v shock. (Each wire is only 120 volts to ground, but 180 degrees out of phase, or 240V, only with each other), If you somehow simultaneously touched both hot wires on a 240v circuit, chances are you did it inadvertently with one hand, and most of the short circuit current wouldn't pass through your heart, unlike the more dangerous 120v circuit current that does on its way to ground. Though it would burn, maybe even violently boil, your hand a lot faster.

 

[dadster4]

The rating plate on the equipment motor will list the "max fuse" size...use this as your breaker size, then size your wire to match the breaker amp rating and length of wire run to the equipment.
You will need a ground and the two hot leads. If you run conduit to the outlet box, it will serve as the ground. Be sure you have a separate neutral and ground from the garage subpanel to the main panel.

 

[buickanddeere]

Usually equipment mfr will list the required circuit required, including the breaker amperage. Like the shaper someone referenced, the manual says install a 30 A receptacle and breaker, full load is less. Don't always assume you need it to be more to derate it, maybe that has already been done for you.
You get the whole range of responses, from people who are scared to death of electricity and always say "get an electrician", to others that are totally comfortable around power and say do it yourself. I'm in the later group, electricity isn't rocket science, there are plenty of how to books.

Being comfortable around electricity and knowing what you are doing can be two different things.

 

[buickanddeere]

Electrical code is "morphing" on 240v (not 220v but that's a different topic) I think...a lot of stuff now requires a 4 wire set (dunno why but I don't understand arc-fault requirements or those ugly "bubble caps" on outdoor outlets or tamper resistant outlets either). The plug on the tool will dictate the wiring...if only 3 prong then "hot" "hot" "ground" (which is funny because neutral and ground typically come together in the panel) but some stuff does now require a "neutral" which I guess is a "back-up" in case the ground gets damaged. OP has yet to explain his machine...240v 30A must be something pretty big.

Don't be posting guesses when you don't really know. Wrong on several accounts .

 

[buickanddeere]

Never understood that "bonding" stuff either (it's only that green screw that comes with the panel). Took me awhile to understand "single point" grounding (which I'll guess that most satellite TV/Internet dish installers violate) but why the need to isolate the neutral/ground on a subpanel?

The bare ground system is not designed or intended to carry neutral current . The ground system is to ONLY hold everything metallic to earth potential. The insulated load carrying neutral conductors are to carry load current back to the Center tap on a single phase . Or to the Center of the Y on three phase .

 

[buickanddeere]

Cable for a 30.0 FLA single phase squirrel cage 240V motor would be would be 37.5amp or higher . Fast blow fuse 90.0amp. P rated delay fuse 50amp. Circuit breaker 70amp.

 

[dadster4]

"Cable for a 30.0 FLA single phase squirrel cage 240V motor would be would be 37.5amp or higher . Fast blow fuse 90.0amp. P rated delay fuse 50amp. Circuit breaker 70amp."
"Don't be posting guesses when you don't really know."
What the ????
Follow your own advice please

 

[buickanddeere]

"Cable for a 30.0 FLA single phase squirrel cage 240V motor would be would be 37.5amp or higher . Fast blow fuse 90.0amp. P rated delay fuse 50amp. Circuit breaker 70amp."
"Don't be posting guesses when you don't really know."
What the ????
Follow your own advice please

Straight out of the code book.
Your source ?

 

[dadster4]

The poor guy is asking for help (see my first post) not quotes from a code book.
I'm not replying any further, I've seen too many others argue with you, and no good ever comes from it.

 

[teejk]

Don't be posting guesses when you don't really know. Wrong on several accounts .

I'll list this as a "snark"...thanks for your post...

 

[teejk]

The poor guy is asking for help (see my first post) not quotes from a code book.
I'm not replying any further, I've seen too many others argue with you, and no good ever comes from it.

Every board on the internet has them. I just learn to ignore them.

 

[EarPlug]

Read the manual for the machine - Section 2 - http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g8622_m.pdf

Dedicated 30 amp breaker - We recommend using a NEMA-style L6-30 plug and outlet (which is a 3 wire cord)

 

[hr3]

If it is 220 volt, you do not need a neutral, but you do need a ground !

paul

Opps read the specs. on the equipment.. It says it want a 4 wire power cord.....

 

[buickanddeere]

A motor with 30amps full load operating current is supposed to be supplied with breakers or fuses larger than 30 amp. To prevent tripped fuses or blown fuses during starting inrush current .
The 70 amp breaker is there for short circuit protection with many of you are confusing with thermal protection. Thermal protection is provided by the heaters located in the 30amp motors starter/contractor box. Thermals by the way are to be set at 115% of FLA if the motor's service factor is 115% . 34.5amp on the thermals. The thermals in the machine are what keeps the building wiring from melting, not the supply breaker .
Why are you getting angry and shooting the messenger ? Who are we going to trust on electrical specs? The engineers that wrote the code book? Or are we going to believe Bubba the self taught electrician ?
Anybody here ever seen a cell phone charger plugged into a 20amp T-slot receptacle ? Where is the protection there ? Nobody gets worried .

 

[LD1]

Full circle.

Only you did better with the details.

Same point I made. Breaker is to protect the circuit, not the device. (I used a box fan on 20a circuit analogy).

You could plug the motor into a 200a circuit. It dont care as long as it at least meets the minimum requirement of the motor.

Still would like to know what this piece of equipment is? 30 FLA motor is pretty big for a piece of wood working equipment. I dont think we ever got clarification if that was accurate or not? And I dont think a 70a breaker is all that common for a typical panel that would be found in a home or residential shop

 

[buickanddeere]

Page 5 but it's not a great example .http://www.schneider-electric.com.mx/documents/local/qo.pdf

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

I apologize for not responding promptly to all the well intentioned responses. I've been busy with quite a few things. It seems everyone has been curious about the machine in question. It is a planer molder and this is directly from the manual; Motor is 230 volt, 30 amps. Recommended receptacle is 6-30R.

My brother's son in law is a commercial electrician with around 20 years experience. He has agreed to help with the wiring, and I feel comfortable with his competence. Although I haven't talked to him yet, I will defer to his recommendations.

Again thank you for all the good responses. As always TBN is a treasure trove of knowledge.

 

[buickanddeere]

If FLA really is 30.0 Amp. The 6-30R is too small. The classic 6-50 welding receptacle and plug would be code compliant. Of course the 6-50R would work with just about an modern welder.