$1000 Coolant Change

[applepicker]

On 12/19/13 I changed my anti freeze with Fleet Charge in my BX2230. In past years I have used FLEET CHARGE. I did so again following the procedure outlined in the directions. After 5 hours running time the anti freeze turned milky/caulky and completely clogged my radiator. My Kubota dealer has never seen such incident as this. I now have to replace the core and the total bill will approach $1000. Has anyone had a similar experience with Fleet or other coolants?

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I would bet you have something else getting into the cooling system. My first guess would be oil.
Bill

 

[applepicker]

The Kubota dealer did a complete check and no oil in coolant nor coolant in oil.

 

[ritschner]

I run Prestone Heavy Duty coolant that is SCA precharged in my L2800 with no issues. I tend to agree with Hooked. Even then I would be skeptical about completely clogging the radiator to the point it can not be cleaned. A second opinion might be in order.

 

[Paystar]

I don't know what you had.....but you cannot mix green and ELC coolants....they will make mud.
Some brands of ELC will not "get along" with each other either.

 

[applepicker]

I drained the radiator and took the contents to the dealership. After standing overnight two layers appear. A pinkish upper(coolant color) and a milky, thickish bottom layer. If oil is in the coolant, shouldn't it be apparent and be on top? I just did an experiment with the Fleet and Rotilla oil and it does not look like what drained from my radiator.

 

[applepicker]

I had Fleet Charge in the tractor for the previous 2 years and just changed using with the same brand/type after flushing system to clear water.

 

[jel1988]

Try mixing a little water with the coolant and repeat your experiment. Let us know if the results are different.

 

[applepicker]

Try mixing a little water with the coolant and repeat your experiment. Let us know if the results are different.

The antifreeze come premixed 50:50, so there is ample water.

 

[Egon]

I don't know what you had.....but you cannot mix green and ELC coolants....they will make mud.
Some brands of ELC will not "get along" with each other either.

Sounds like you may be onto the problem.

 

[applepicker]

Sounds like you may be onto the problem.

Flushed the cooling system to clear water. Added same Brand, Type, Color of coolant(Fleet Charge).

 

[Chilly807]

Unless they've changed the formulation it's a strange situation.. usually oil getting in the system does what you've described, but if no oil is present it's a mystery to me.

Sean

 

[Johnny g]

Do you have any enemies out there that could have put something in it?

 

[CalG]

I drained the radiator and took the contents to the dealership. After standing overnight two layers appear. A pinkish upper(coolant color) and a milky, thickish bottom layer. If oil is in the coolant, shouldn't it be apparent and be on top? I just did an experiment with the Fleet and Rotilla oil and it does not look like what drained from my radiator.

I recently purchased a German automobile from my neighbor with EXACTLY that same symptoms and signs. The previous owner was just fed up with getting no heat from the heater core.

When a sample of the coolant (pink) was allowed to set for a day, the two layers appeared in a most obvious way. Pinkish (Pentosin G12) on top, and a milk thicker material below.

No indication of mixed coolants was reported, but I believe there may have been "something".

I took advantage of a warm spell, and spent a couple of hours flushing the coolant systen every which way. I was amazed at how much flushing was required to end up with just clean water flowing out of the system.

On final restoration of the coolant system I selected the "Mercedes Benze" compatable product from the shelf of options at the local flaps.

I'm going to stick with that one type for this car, that's for sure!

The Hurliman tractor runs on the "green stuff", and the Fordson doesn't care what is put in it (thermo siphon) so long as it doesn't freeze. ;-)

Thanks for sharing the details of your anti-freeze observation. Now I know "it happens"!

cheers

Cal

 

[applepicker]

Do you have any enemies out there that could have put something in it?

After 37 years of college teaching, I made a few but based on my experience, I do think they have the brains to do it.

 

[applepicker]

I recently purchased a German automobile from my neighbor with EXACTLY that same symptoms and signs. The previous owner was just fed up with getting no heat from the heater core.

When a sample of the coolant (pink) was allowed to set for a day, the two layers appeared in a most obvious way. Pinkish (Pentosin G12) on top, and a milk thicker material below.

No indication of mixed coolants was reported, but I believe there may have been "something".

I took advantage of a warm spell, and spent a couple of hours flushing the coolant systen every which way. I was amazed at how much flushing was required to end up with just clean water flowing out of the system.

On final restoration of the coolant system I selected the "Mercedes Benze" compatable product from the shelf of options at the local flaps.

I'm going to stick with that one type for this car, that's for sure!

The Hurliman tractor runs on the "green stuff", and the Fordson doesn't care what is put in it (thermo siphon) so long as it doesn't freeze. ;-)

Thanks for sharing the details of your anti-freeze observation. Now I know "it happens"!

cheers

Cal

I put the same brand/type in that I had used in the tractor for the last 2 years.

 

[BeezFun]

I drained the radiator and took the contents to the dealership. After standing overnight two layers appear. A pinkish upper(coolant color) and a milky, thickish bottom layer. If oil is in the coolant, shouldn't it be apparent and be on top? I just did an experiment with the Fleet and Rotilla oil and it does not look like what drained from my radiator.

Several things can cause a precipitate in coolant. Material from the head gasket usually causes a grey thick material that settles to the bottom. The coolant can pickup material left over from the casting process, which often includes rust, and that can precipitate out. Silicates can also precipitate out, but that would normally be a small amount. Is it possible you ran with too high a concentration of antifreeze? That can also cause precipitates to form.
There are labs you can send this stuff to and have it analyzed, here's one that does oil, not sure if they analyze coolant.
Bummer man, you have my condolences.

 

[MHarryE]

I have had a model with significant precipitate due to stray current but on a new design with new from the bottom up engine, electrical and cooling system. You brand coolant has about all the different possible coolant types produced. All that I looked at claimed compatibility with across the board standards but is there a possibility you found a incompatible match? That sounds like the only thing that would create a problem timed exactly with a coolant change.

 

[sandyc]

I am not an expert on coolants but I'm guessing that maybe there was a bad batch of anti-freeze made. All of the glycol based coolants should be compatible. Wonder if you got a jug of old stuff that had the old coconut fiber "stop leak" or a jug of new stuff that was made when the plant was cleaning out their tanks. Both alcohol and glycol should stay in solution with water and not separate so if it wasn't the coolant then I would bet a foreign substance like oil or maybe even fuel.

 

[skyhook]

Have the dealer (or you can do this yourself) do "head gasket leak test".
This is done with a tester that goes over the rad cap area, and will "sniff" for exhaust leaks.
Sounds to me like there is a "small" leak somewhere and it has
accumulated at the bottom of your rad.
When you did your flush, you disturbed all the gunk at the bottom of the rad.