99 problems and my tractor is every one of them

   / 99 problems and my tractor is every one of them
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Insurance should cover that
Yeah unfortunately it's under my home insurance policy which covers theft l, vandalism, collision with another vehicle and of all things an airplane falling on it it. So sadly I'm pooched on that front.
 
   / 99 problems and my tractor is every one of them #22  

You should read this thread.
Post 3 of that thread.....why would you stop mowing to do a regen?

Quote:

2. Automatic Regeneration - Happens when the DPF Pressure sensor indicates an 80% Soot Load in the DPF. the tractor will go into Auto Regen on it's own as long as the Engine RPMs are kept between 1800 and PTO Speed while the Auto Regeneration is active. The operator will know the tractor is in Auto Generation because the RED Indicator Light will illuminate on the DASH. KEEP GOING - KEEP your engine RPMs above the yellow line at 1800rpm until the light goes back off. This takes approximately 9 to 11 minutes to complete. Reducing engine rpm's below the yellow line on the dash during an Auto-Regen will cancel the Regeneration Process. Two Cancellations of the AUTO-REGEN will put the tractor in limp mode.

3. Manual Regen - Park the tractor with the Parking Brake locked. Start the tractor at idle. Push and hold the Regen switch for 2-3 seconds. Go find something else to do for 43 minutes. Manual Regeneration should ONLY be necessary if 2 Auto-Regen Cycles are cancelled by lowering the RPMs below 1800 (yellow line on dash) while an AUTO Regeneration is underway.

The best way to think about this is that the tractor is programmed to take care of itself. As long as you always operate between 1800rpm and PTOrpm, and keep the RPMs in this range during an AUTO Regen (Light On), you should never have to perform a Manual Regen (type 3). Just keep working the tractor while the light is on until it goes off (9-11 Minutes.) Never cancel an Auto-Regen Cycle.
 
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   / 99 problems and my tractor is every one of them
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Saying crack instead of hole sounds like running into something or something having dropped on it as opposed to a stick punching a hole in the radiator. Is it possible this damage occurred during transit or even existed prior to them selling you the tractor?

Where is the crack in the cowling-- e.g., on the front like the tractor was run into something or on the top like something was dropped on it from above?

Is this fresh damage that appears to have happened recently?

Others can correct me, but I tend to use the level of coolant in the coolant tank as showing me how much coolant is present. I rarely take the radiator cap off. What does your owner's manual tell you to do about checking the coolant? Does it say to take the rad cap off?

I'd be asking them how much the coolant was low and when did they determine this?

If it wasn't knocking before you took it in, did the dealership do something to cause this?

You also mentioned the lack of a guard. Not sure what you are asking, but apparently a lot of tractors are sold with a grill guard frame that doesn't have any mesh on it to prevent sticks from poking through the cowling. They might or might not sell an accessory mesh insert for the grill guard frame.

40 minutes of regen seems unusually long. I thought regens usually took 20 minutes? Does your owner's manual state any expected time for a regen to be completed?

Saying crack instead of hole sounds like running into something or something having dropped on it as opposed to a stick punching a hole in the radiator. Is it possible this damage occurred during transit or even existed prior to them selling you the tractor?

Where is the crack in the cowling-- e.g., on the front like the tractor was run into something or on the top like something was dropped on it from above?

Is this fresh damage that appears to have happened recently?

Others can correct me, but I tend to use the level of coolant in the coolant tank as showing me how much coolant is present. I rarely take the radiator cap off. What does your owner's manual tell you to do about checking the coolant? Does it say to take the rad cap off?

I'd be asking them how much the coolant was low and when did they determine this?

If it wasn't knocking before you took it in, did the dealership do something to cause this?

You also mentioned the lack of a guard. Not sure what you are asking, but apparently a lot of tractors are sold with a grill guard frame that doesn't have any mesh on it to prevent sticks from poking through the cowling. They might or might not sell an accessory mesh insert for the grill guard frame.

40 minutes of regen seems unusually long. I thought regens usually took 20 minutes? Does your owner's manual state any expected time for a regen to be completed?
There is certainly of damage due to pictures submitted to me by service manager. The plastic radiator mount is seen below.
The crack occurs through thin metal mesh on hood that protects exhaust pipe. Age of damage is hard to determine due to tractor having only 67 hours on it.
The owners manual only explicitly states to check reservoir level. No mention of radiator cap or any other means to gauge level.
 

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   / 99 problems and my tractor is every one of them
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Post 3 of that thread.....why would you stop mowing to do a regen?

Quote:

2. Automatic Regeneration - Happens when the DPF Pressure sensor indicates an 80% Soot Load in the DPF. the tractor will go into Auto Regen on it's own as long as the Engine RPMs are kept between 1800 and PTO Speed while the Auto Regeneration is active. The operator will know the tractor is in Auto Generation because the RED Indicator Light will illuminate on the DASH. KEEP GOING - KEEP your engine RPMs above the yellow line at 1800rpm until the light goes back off. This takes approximately 9 to 11 minutes to complete. Reducing engine rpm's below the yellow line on the dash during an Auto-Regen will cancel the Regeneration Process. Two Cancellations of the AUTO-REGEN will put the tractor in limp mode.

3. Manual Regen - Park the tractor with the Parking Brake locked. Start the tractor at idle. Push and hold the Regen switch for 2-3 seconds. Go find something else to do for 43 minutes. Manual Regeneration should ONLY be necessary if 2 Auto-Regen Cycles are cancelled by lowering the RPMs below 1800 (yellow line on dash) while an AUTO Regeneration is underway.

The best way to think about this is that the tractor is programmed to take care of itself. As long as you always operate between 1800rpm and PTOrpm, and keep the RPMs in this range during an AUTO Regen (Light On), you should never have to perform a Manual Regen (type 3). Just keep working the tractor while the light is on until it goes off (9-11 Minutes.) Never cancel an Auto-Regen Cycle.
 

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   / 99 problems and my tractor is every one of them
  • Thread Starter
#25  
This the dpf excerpt from the kioti manual.
 
   / 99 problems and my tractor is every one of them #26  
If a radiator, or cap, or hose, or connection has an air leak it will not pull fluid from an external overflow reservoir, That is why most engines need to physically have the actual radiator level checked. That is where a radiator level switch and light is nice to have.
 
   / 99 problems and my tractor is every one of them #27  
Keep working while doing the automatic regen....start at 2:24

 
   / 99 problems and my tractor is every one of them #28  
Brush cutting while the automatic regen is happening.

 
   / 99 problems and my tractor is every one of them
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Keep working while doing the automatic regen....start at 2:24

Thanks for the video. There is no argument on my end that that can't be done. The running Regen and the parked Regen fallow under around the same rpm range by the looks of things.
I think there is something going on with bad injectors possibly causing the constant need for Regen. But unfortunately the dealership went the route with rad. This is going to be tricky.
 
   / 99 problems and my tractor is every one of them
  • Thread Starter
#30  
If a radiator, or cap, or hose, or connection has an air leak it will not pull fluid from an external overflow reservoir, That is why most engines need to physically have the actual radiator level checked. That is where a radiator level switch and light is nice to have.
Agreed that's why I'm wondering why this safety device isn't installed? Obviously cost. But in this instance it's a possible argument if it goes the legal route.
 

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