Correct engine idle speed during warm up??

[GManBart]

I shut it off with the engine at about 1400 rpm and leave it there. That's where I start it and adjust it to around 1300 then let it run (with the clutch depressed) for several minutes when really cold. The sooner you can get the oil flowing to all four corners of your engine the better. 1500 or more sounds like it's racing to me and I think the engine oil will reach the pressure limiter so any faster will not do any good.

Shutting an engine off at well above idle speed is actually hard on a number of parts....not really a good thing to do. It's really bad on engines with timing belts, almost as bad for those with timing chains, and least bad on those with timing gears (like your engine), but it still loads pretty much everything that spins (cam, crank, rods, etc) in the "wrong" direction. It may never cause a problem you see, but it's one of those things that's easy to avoid, just in case. Some engines are built with those loads in mind (think engine braking on big rig diesels), but I don't believe that's typical of tractor engines.

If you want to start at that throttle setting, you could just make a mark that you could line up with the throttle, and be at your chosen RPM.

 

[GManBart]

Cold engines do not start hard because of poor combustion. Cold temperatures cause the viscosity of the fuel to become heavier. Thicker, fuel atomizes less efficiently, making the engine more difficult to start. Opening the throttle enriches the mixture of atomized fuel to air. When the amount of atomized fuel is high enough, there is combustion, irregardless of the temperature.

Well since everybody is correcting everybody else, I guess we shouldn't let mistakes like this go unaddressed.

There is combustion regardless of temperature? The ONLY reason combustion happens in a diesel is because the proper temperature has been reached due to compression. It doesn't matter how much atomized fuel is present, you won't get combustion without the proper temperature being achieved.

FYI, "irregardless" isn't a proper word, it's the illegitimate child of "regardless" and "irrespective". Lots of people use it, and all of them are wrong.

 

[RoyJackson]

Shutting an engine off at well above idle speed is actually hard on a number of parts....not really a good thing to do.

I agree and I lower the RPM smoothly to the minimum throttle setting...give it a second or three, then shut the engine down.
On a related note, always engage and disengage the PTO at low RPM. Before disengaging the PTO, I'll let it run at low RPM for a short period of time (30 seconds or so). It's a bit easier on the PTO brake and implement.

 

[mikehaugen]

Well since everybody is correcting everybody else, I guess we shouldn't let mistakes like this go unaddressed.

FYI, "irregardless" isn't a proper word, it's the illegitimate child of "regardless" and "irrespective". Lots of people use it, and all of them are wrong.

I'm glad I'm not the only one.

 

[CobyRupert]

Do you think cold transmission oil would act like a sticking brake?

 

[vtsnowedin]

Do you think cold transmission oil would act like a sticking brake?

I say yes. When it is -15F it is like molasses and is hard for the gears or pumps to stir. The heat from the engine will move back through the outside castings and driveline parts so the effect will not last long once the engine is warm and you are moving. Just driving ahead will stir the oil and add energy as heat to it plus running through the power steering pump warms it up.
So letç—´ see where the discussion has gone. I get from it that to reduce wear and tare you should plug in your tractor before a cold start if you can and once started should let it warm up at about 1200 to 1300 RPM to generate enough heat to warm up all the parts. Then you should start out slow and easy until the transmission fluid has warmed up by convection from the engine and friction running through the pumps. After you are done using the tractor you should bring it to an idle as slow as it will go to let the turbo cool down for a minute or two then shut it down while on low idle to not have any backlash stress parts on shutdown. Then plug it back in so it's ready for the next cold start.
What have I missed or gotten wrong?

 

[ray66v]

Well since everybody is correcting everybody else, I guess we shouldn't let mistakes like this go unaddressed.

There is combustion regardless of temperature? The ONLY reason combustion happens in a diesel is because the proper temperature has been reached due to compression. It doesn't matter how much atomized fuel is present, you won't get combustion without the proper temperature being achieved.

FYI, "irregardless" isn't a proper word, it's the illegitimate child of "regardless" and "irrespective". Lots of people use it, and all of them are wrong.

1. Sorry, that I did not write a book to make that clear enough for you to understand. The temperature I was referring to was, "ambient temperature". (That would be the temperature of the air in the surrounding area.) The hint was, the discussion was about cold weather starting.

2. When you have cleaned up the egregious mistakes in spelling, grammar, and words that do not exist as seen daily on here, come back, and you can talk about knit picking my grammar. :laughing:

 

[CobyRupert]

So when its cold out, the heat from the compression sinks into the piston, head, sleeves, etc... and doesn't reach auto-ignition temp, whereas a gas has the plug to spark it?

 

[RoyJackson]

So when its cold out, the heat from the compression sinks into the piston, head, sleeves, etc... and doesn't reach auto-ignition temp, whereas a gas has the plug to spark it?

That's about it...a gas engine is spark ignition...a diesel is compression ignition. The diesel has turn be turning fast enough and the combustion chamber has to hot enough.

 

[RoyJackson]

Do you think cold transmission oil would act like a sticking brake?

I say yes. When it is -15F it is like molasses and is hard for the gears or pumps to stir. The heat from the engine will move back through the outside castings and drive line parts so the effect will not last long once the engine is warm and you are moving. Just driving ahead will stir the oil and add energy as heat to it plus running through the power steering pump warms it up.
So letç—´ see where the discussion has gone. I get from it that to reduce wear and tear you should plug in your tractor before a cold start if you can and once started should let it warm up at about 1200 to 1300 RPM to generate enough heat to warm up all the parts. Then you should start out slow and easy until the transmission fluid has warmed up by convection from the engine and friction running through the pumps. After you are done using the tractor you should bring it to an idle as slow as it will go to let the turbo cool down for a minute or two then shut it down while on low idle to not have any backlash stress parts on shutdown. Then plug it back in so it's ready for the next cold start.
What have I missed or gotten wrong?

You've pretty much nailed it, Warren
I don't plug it back in unless I'm going to let it set for more then an hour outside...

 

[vtsnowedin]

You've pretty much nailed it, Warren
I don't plug it back in unless I'm going to let it set for more then an hour outside...

Well I only park it next to the end of the extension cord when I'm done with it for the day. I can pull the breaker on the sugar house and not waste the juice on warmer days or when I'm not going to need the JD. Then I can just flip it on while I make breakfast and feed the cats etc. and she's all good to go by the time I get around to work.
I'm off to Salem NH this morning to pick up a Lincoln tombstone welder I bought off Craigslist. I'll be able to weld up plow repairs as needed once I re teach myself how to strike an arc. It's been a decade or two.

 

[RoyJackson]

Well I only park it next to the end of the extension cord when I'm done with it for the day. I can pull the breaker on the sugar house and not waste the juice on warmer days or when I'm not going to need the JD. Then I can just flip it on while I make breakfast and feed the cats etc. and she's all good to go by the time I get around to work.

The people who had this house built (right around 1990) ran electricity to both out buildings. There's even two switches in the house sun room to turn the lights and one outlet on in the larger of the two out buildings. The outlet was for their tractor's (an 855) block heater. That's pretty convenient, but I don't park the 4400 in the out building....don't want critters in the wiring.

I'm off to Salem NH this morning to pick up a Lincoln tombstone welder I bought off Craigslist. I'll be able to weld up plow repairs as needed once I re teach myself how to strike an arc. It's been a decade or two.

Shouldn't be too hard to get back into it. I suggest you keep the ground close to where you're going to weld. Your Deere may not be the fanciest girl at the dance, but there's probably more electronics on it since it's a pretty new machine.

 

[vtsnowedin]

Shouldn't be too hard to get back into it. I suggest you keep the ground close to where you're going to weld. Your Deere may not be the fanciest girl at the dance, but there's probably more electronics on it since it's a pretty new machine.

I'm not going to risk that if at all possible. I'll unhook the plow in the work area and back the tractor away. If I ever have to weld on the tractor I'll do some very thorough search to do it right without screwing up the electronics. It might be a lot more complicated then just disconnecting the battery and keeping the ground close to the weld. Just something I'm aware of but have not looked into the details as of yet.

 

[jodebg]

Glad I started this thread, I think? I now how to spell, use proper grammar, brushed up on forum skills,
and know which words not to use and that never existed. All helpful stuff.

But, the best part is my tractor that's sitting in my cold garage is heating up (as I type) from all the friction on this thread. Guess it's better than
burning diesel fuel and clocking hours!!

Thanks for all the great participation...it was fun.

 

[RoyJackson]

Glad I started this thread, I think? I now how to spell, use proper grammar, brushed up on forum skills,
and know which words not to use and that never existed. All helpful stuff.

One must have or develop a thick skin when posting on any forum. TBN, for the most part (except for the Friendly Politics forum) is pretty sedate...

 

[jodebg]

Looks like we stirred things up a bit. Like your badge.

Maybe you could answer a question for me?

I intend to put a small dirt road through a wooded area. There is stretch on thick old pricker bushes. Don't have a back hoe to reach in and yank them by the roots.
What might be the best approach to get rid of them before filling and grading?

Saw a 5ft used rear blade today for $150. Any value for this Kubota B7800 and the project?

 

[RoyJackson]

Maybe you could answer a question for me?

I intend to put a small dirt road through a wooded area. There is stretch on thick old pricker bushes. Don't have a back hoe to reach in and yank them by the roots.
What might be the best approach to get rid of them before filling and grading?

Saw a 5ft used rear blade today for $150. Any value for this Kubota B7800 and the project?

You might want to try a ratchet rake:
Ratchet Rake, LLC - Rip and Dig, All Terrain Rake, Snow Edge, Tractor attachment, Bucket attachment, Loader, Skid loader, Kubota, Skid steer, Landscape rake, Brush remover, York Rake, Harley Rake, Rock Rake, Tractor rake attachment, Construction atta

The Ratchet Rake, 68 in. - Tractor Supply Co.

I have NOT used one of these yet...I use my tooth bar, but the ratchet rake looks more efficient and a number of TBNers have given them great reviews.
I've got some clearing to do next year and I think I'll pick one of these up. Do keep an eye on Tractor Supply discounts...they do drop these prices considerably on occasion.
By the way, that video I linked shows how well the rake works, but don't follow that guy's lead...he should have had his ROPS up.

As far as the rear blade, good price, but a 6 footer would be a better fit for your B7800. Also, I'd look for one with gage wheels.

 

[Coyote machine]

I say yes. When it is -15F it is like molasses and is hard for the gears or pumps to stir. The heat from the engine will move back through the outside castings and driveline parts so the effect will not last long once the engine is warm and you are moving. Just driving ahead will stir the oil and add energy as heat to it plus running through the power steering pump warms it up.
So let痴 see where the discussion has gone. I get from it that to reduce wear and tare you should plug in your tractor before a cold start if you can and once started should let it warm up at about 1200 to 1300 RPM to generate enough heat to warm up all the parts. Then you should start out slow and easy until the transmission fluid has warmed up by convection from the engine and friction running through the pumps. After you are done using the tractor you should bring it to an idle as slow as it will go to let the turbo cool down for a minute or two then shut it down while on low idle to not have any backlash stress parts on shutdown. Then plug it back in so it's ready for the next cold start.
What have I missed or gotten wrong?

In your description the correct spelling of tare would be tear. You asked, I answered. :confused3:

 

[jodebg]

This looks like a very good solution, thanks.

 

[ddb123]

Well since everybody is correcting everybody else, I guess we shouldn't let mistakes like this go unaddressed. There is combustion regardless of temperature? The ONLY reason combustion happens in a diesel is because the proper temperature has been reached due to compression. It doesn't matter how much atomized fuel is present, you won't get combustion without the proper temperature being achieved. FYI, "irregardless" isn't a proper word, it's the illegitimate child of "regardless" and "irrespective". Lots of people use it, and all of them are wrong.

Pssst. Punctuation marks belong inside quotation marks.