Snow Snow clearing newbie - Recommended steps

[Yander]

Here is some more snowblowing advice from a front mount blower user, if applicable to a pull behind type;

First, never disengage the pto unless, or until, the chute is clear of all snow. Disengaging the pto with a chute full of snow (especially wet heavy snow) is a great way to instantly end up with a plugged chute when you re-engage the pto.

Second, when the job is finished, be sure to run the blower until all snow is cleared from all moving parts. Then move / rotate the chute full range stop to stop to be sure there is not snow that can freeze and block its movement before the next startup.

Second, contrary to what others have said about running the engine speed for the rated pto rpm, With a gravel driveway, Once you get the hang of your equipment's operation (i.e. how slow you can run the engine (pto) without plugging the chute in various snow conditions), you may find your driveway and yard restoration work next spring to be easier if you slow the pto speed and try to not throw and spread the snow (including gravel) quite so far and wide. I have a front blower with an adjustable deflector on the chute, but I also vary engine speed in order to minimize the areas that I need to clean up each spring. Throw it as far as you need to, get the snow out of the way so you don't get snow banks that cause extra drifting, but remember that you may be the one who has to clean up any extra mess in the spring.

Third, When spring comes and it is time to move the gravel back into the driveway. After the box blade, a power rubber paddle broom
View attachment 4375268
does a great job to really clean things up. Works best (easiest) to get it done before the grass starts growing in the spring.

I used to clean up the gravel from my yard, now I just leave it and mash it down when I roll the yeard in the spring. Unless it is excessive, it doesn't hurt a thing. But I didn't know there was a tool to do this, may have to look into this.

 

[gstrom99]

I didn't know there was a tool to do this, may have to look into this.

I have a Stihl Power Paddle. Mostly needed for plowed stones, not blower. The blower SENDS 'EM! Works great.

Not me:

 

[Starrynights]

With a gravel driveway I would pack the snow in the first few storms. You dont want to blow half your driveway through your snowblower. If you cant do this then I would say get a plow.

Thanks, good advice. We had a guy plowing last year... he moved a lot of gravel off the drive, part of the reason I'm doing it myself now. At least I know who to blame).

 

[Starrynights]

First thing you'll learn is that it's VITAL that the discharge chute is pointed downwind. You'll have to adjust that as your direction and conditions change. If you get caught in the "snow-cloud" from the discharge blowing back at you, you become an instant snowman!

As mentioned above, tilt the leading edge up so it doesn't dig into your gravel. Let it ride back on the shoes a little.

I run mowers, tillers, and snowblowers at WOT. No reason not to. Your blower doesn't have to rotate at EXACTLY 540 rpm and, in this case, faster is better.

I've never had my tractor-mounted snowblower jam up with snow or ice.

Look at your PTO angle when yours is raised all the way up. If it's extreme, don't raise it that high while it's running. Every setup is a little different. As said above, you can just pick it up so it's not dragging sideways on the turns without raising it all the way. I don't disengage mine when I turn around.

Don't point the discharge at anything like a car or person -- not even as a joke. You won't believe how much gravel and junk will get picked up (regardless of how careful you are) and you can easily break glass, etc.

Otherwise, just have fun with your new snow machine!

I think the PTO angle sb OK, but will check. The whole unit does not come very high off the ground when in full raised position (like maybe 10-12"). Will double check when I get out for the 1st run. I was thinking about that chute position and flinging gravel... I will need to focus on that until I have some hours of this under my belt.

It is fun! Well.. any tractor work is.

 

[dadohead]

I run mowers, tillers, and snowblowers at WOT. No reason not to. Your blower doesn't have to rotate at EXACTLY 540 rpm and, in this case, faster is better.

^^^^This^^^^

Also, I spray the blower and chute areas with a coat of Fluid Film at the beginning of the season. Amazing! Without, the 'treated' snow near the public road will plug me instantly.... not after Fluid Film though.

The front mount SB does about 20% duty. The 3pt blade does 80%.... all of those 2-3" 'nuisance' snows is faster with the blade.

 

[Starrynights]

Yeah I'd wait using blower until you have a solid snow/ice surface. Otherwise its just gonna be an inaccurate gravel shotgun. Many that uses the bucket gets them shoes you put on to prevent it from digging into the gravel (Can't remember the name). Else inverted blowers are great instruments, here is a video of me with 18inches of snow last year.

GReat video!

 

[WinterDeere]

Ok I'll do this. Yes, there is a 540 PTO range on the tach,but I'll start it up on the low end and see how it goes.

I've always been told it's also good practice to throttle down before disengaging PTO on modern equipment without overrun clutch, as it will save wear on the PTO braking mechanism, although I'll admit I often fail to actually follow this advice. Always start PTO at low idle, if possible.

I wear ear protection anyway on the tractors. My eyesight is a little iffy, don’t want to be deaf too .

Same but opposite, here! Too many years of hot rods, shooting sports, machinery, drumming, bagpiping...

My family bought me a tee shirt that says "I DESTROY SILENCE."

 

[gstrom99]

I will need to focus on that until I have some hours of this under my belt.

It is fun! Well.. any tractor work is.

Now that you have the good equipment, you know it won't snow much this year, right?

 

[RobertEH]

Since your driveway is gravel make sure you have some spare shear pins in stock

This!

 

[chim]

Unless the driveway area is very obvious, drive some marker stakes for guidance. Our main paved driveway isn't an issue, but a gravel driveway that curves to the sheds. Although I frequently use that driveway I tend to plow the adjacent yard unless I stake it out.

 

[WinterDeere]

Unless the driveway area is very obvious, drive some marker stakes for guidance. Our main paved driveway isn't an issue, but a gravel driveway that curves to the sheds. Although I frequently use that driveway I tend to plow the adjacent yard unless I stake it out.

Good advice! I remember when we bought our current house, at closing the seller said, "I left some plow markers in the barn for you. You'll swear you know exactly where your own driveway is, but in deep snow, you'll find yourself plowing the front yard, without those markers."

He was right. One year we got a real early snow, before I got the markers up. My wife left the house before me that morning, and she "zagged then zigged" when she should have "zigged then zagged", heading down our long S-shaped driveway. Created a neat figure-8 pattern in the snow melt, after I drove the correct route in my own vehicle.

 

[RjCorazza]

Good advice! I remember when we bought our current house, at closing the seller said, "I left some plow markers in the barn for you. You'll swear you know exactly where your own driveway is, but in deep snow, you'll find yourself plowing the front yard, without those markers."

He was right. One year we got a real early snow, before I got the markers up. My wife left the house before me that morning, and she "zagged then zigged" when she should have "zigged then zagged", heading down our long S-shaped driveway. Created a neat figure-8 pattern in the snow melt, after I drove the correct route in my own vehicle.

So true. Even after 28 years of plowing my gently curving 600' driveway I struggle to stay on it without stakes.
To be responsible for turf damage I require my customer's driveways to be staked, but they rarely stake them. I take photos while driving up the driveways in my tractor before winter, and it really helps. I tried loading them into my backup camera screen, but the interface is way too clunky, so I just use my ipad for the photos.

 

[shooterdon]

After I bought my inverted blower the amount of snow we got seemed to lessen. I may have used 5-6 times a year for 5 years. So, I sold it this year for $4000

It did a very good job and if you have snow to move, you will be happy. Great tool.

I wound up with a contractor grade V-plow on a city truck I won at an auction, and it was OK but tended to move a lot of gravel with my poor plowing skills. Used it for two years and sold it too this summer for $3600

Decided to get a snow pusher as I have places to push snow. Only cost $1700 and no moving parts to worry about. Will see how it does. If we get hammered, my neighbor has a plow truck and $150 once or twice a year seems like a bargain. I am a big believer is buying what makes sense for 95% of the jobs and hiring out the rest. In my case, using a 74" blower to move 4 inches of snow is overkill. We rarely get more than 4" at a time. Of course, this year we will get a lot more...LOL.

BTW it takes a fair amount of snow for a blower to work well. The less snow you have, the faster the ground speed you can use.

 

[Gord Baker]

This will be my first winter snow clearing with the big boy, I've moved up from a JD570 lawn tractor/blower to a Kioti CK2620 & Inverted (pull type) snowblower. That little JD tractor did surprisingly well, but just not enough for the big snow dumps we get. Anyways, since this is a new task with new equipment for me, I want to make sure I am approaching it correctly.

So this is what I believe to be the correct way to do it;

• Warm up tractor
• Raise 3pt hitch
• Move into initial starting area
• Set RPMs approx 1200
• Clutch, then slowly release while PTO is initially engaged
• Bring RPMs up to ~2,000
• Get into the snow and lower the 3pt hitch to desired height above ground and start blowing the snow

When I reach the end of a pass down the driveway, is it a good idea to disengage the PTO while raising the 3pt hitch and maneuvering or does it matter?

cheers!

There should be an Indicator on the Tach as to what RPM to run equipment. Usually 540rpm. Check with MFG'R. If Prevailing Winds are to the EAST, blow snow that way Each Pass. Avoid building a drift on either side.

 

[Starrynights]

After I bought my inverted blower the amount of snow we got seemed to lessen. I may have used 5-6 times a year for 5 years. So, I sold it this year for $4000

It did a very good job and if you have snow to move, you will be happy. Great tool.

I wound up with a contractor grade V-plow on a city truck I won at an auction, and it was OK but tended to move a lot of gravel with my poor plowing skills. Used it for two years and sold it too this summer for $3600

Decided to get a snow pusher as I have places to push snow. Only cost $1700 and no moving parts to worry about. Will see how it does. If we get hammered, my neighbor has a plow truck and $150 once or twice a year seems like a bargain. I am a big believer is buying what makes sense for 95% of the jobs and hiring out the rest. In my case, using a 74" blower to move 4 inches of snow is overkill. We rarely get more than 4" at a time. Of course, this year we will get a lot more...LOL.

BTW it takes a fair amount of snow for a blower to work well. The less snow you have, the faster the ground speed you can use.

In my equation, the cost savings for snow removal was used to sell the idea of getting a tractor. I think we paid something like 3.5k last year (in CDN). So its about a 10yr payback... if I also include the other things I can do with it (moving gravel and soil etc). Things that would take me weeks to do by hand, and I'm getting to that "extra discounts" age.

Where we are, we had about 10ft of snow over the last winter, so it will get the workout!

 

[Starrynights]

There should be an Indicator on the Tach as to what RPM to run equipment. Usually 540rpm. Check with MFG'R. If Prevailing Winds are to the EAST, blow snow that way Each Pass. Avoid building a drift on either side.

I will do this. Storms typically blow in from the West, and about 2/3 of the drive runs East-West, with a 90 degree bend a the end. I put up a snow fence about 30m up from that N-S cross section to (hopefully) cut down on the drifting across that.

 

[ArlyA]

Funny, most of our snow comes from a northerly wind (lake snow).

 

[WinterDeere]

Funny, most of our snow comes from a northerly wind (lake snow).

... and ours usually rolls up from the south!

Disadvantage: It'll be 10F before the storm, then 35F after the storm... instant melt!

Most of our snow occurs when there's cold air in-place, and warm air pushes up from the southwest. Not every time, but probably more than 50% of the time.

 

[gstrom99]

There should be an Indicator on the Tach as to what RPM to run equipment. Usually 540rpm. Check with MFG'R. If Prevailing Winds are to the EAST, blow snow that way Each Pass. Avoid building a drift on either side.

Blow (or push) your snow WAY FAR AWAY early in the year. As the year goes by, those edges/piles tend to get closer and you won't want to try and move them further when they're frozen hard.

 

[Starrynights]

Funny, most of our snow comes from a northerly wind (lake snow).

Ours is lake effect snow too.. it blows in over Lake Huron from the W or NW, but the trees funnel it through the property mostly from the west (at least thats the way the drifts build up). Not much as yet... but winters just started.