Subpanel vs breakers in main panel

[cycle_gator]

My advice, spend a couple bucks and consult an electrician who knows the codes for your area. I am seeing advice on here that runs fully against the current NEC, but might be code in your area.

 

[sailfast]

Not much.
What amazes me are the people who are so rules compliant they can't use the restroom without checking building code.
The house I live in now is 100+ years old. The electric service is from the 70s. And it hasn't burned down yet. None in my neighborhood have yet.

It amazes me how risk adverse some people are.

 

[wyeguy]

20+ years in the electric industry has taught me a healthy respect for power. People here either know what they're talking about or they don't. EITHER ONE can easily get someone WHO DOESN'T know what they're doing in serious trouble. I'm amazed anyone would take that chance when working with electricity. Oh, but I'd rather look smart here giving advice to someone without regard to their skill set or the consequences. Ignorance is bliss, and since you'll never know if this fella burns down his shed or his kid dies because the floor was wet, you'll go blissfully along.

 

[TomSeller]

I would install the remote panel.. The breakers need to be close to the electrical load to function the best. I have seen loads so remote that a dead short did not trip the breaker due to line resistance. 150' is not a lot, but it would certainly be more convenient to have the breakers close.

 

[wyeguy]

I've gone round and round with "Inspectors" that will state something is not code and it is under the provision that it was at the time of Construction...

It really comes down to the advice given freely on the Internet is just that... free advice.

It sounds like you honestly know what you're doing and I respect your opinion. Certainly no disagreement with what you've said.

My opinion on this subject in general is, lack of a code or whatever, if you don't have the expertise, don't take the chance. And I feel an obligation, based on my experiences, to stand by my opinion. Thanks for the discussion.

 

[sd455dan]

I would install the remote panel.. The breakers need to be close to the electrical load to function the best. I have seen loads so remote that a dead short did not trip the breaker due to line resistance. 150' is not a lot, but it would certainly be more convenient to have the breakers close.

Totally agree, about putting in the remote, panel also the price varies greatly on the box, and breakers by Who manufactures them. Can't remember the name of the high priced one but the (homeline) variety can be much less expensive to buy verses other brands, (inside the building use) to the point that one replacement 100 amp breaker for our one time rental house was more money than 6 new breakers and the remote panel and $50 extra in change...

I believe it's money well spent to buy 4 wire ( burial) wire for your out building supply and installing a long ground rod at the out building, the requirements changed during the time we built our out buildings (they now required 4 wire and also ground rods at main and outbuildings) luckily I had decided on the 4 wire and ground rods and had already purchased them.... be careful, 240vac is very unforgiving of mistakes Check your work, verify the wireing, check your work, verify the wireing... please be careful

 

[moeh1]

If you go your original way, you should run 2 white wires out. If you put a GFI in out there, it will need separate neutrals to work properly. I agree with most of the other input to run a line out to a small subbox.

 

[aczlan]

If you go your original way, you should run 2 white wires out. If you put a GFI in out there, it will need separate neutrals to work properly. I agree with most of the other input to run a line out to a small subbox.

Actually, it wont. A GFCI compares how much power is coming into the outlet on the black wire to how much is going back out on the white wire and if there is any difference it shuts it off.
Now, there MUST be 220v between the two black wires if you are going to share the neutral (ie 2 black wires , 1 neutral and 1 ground) otherwise, you could overload the neutral.


Aaron Z

 

[clemsonfor]

That does not fly in all areas, like has been mentioned there is no codes or inspections in my town. So what are you following? The national electric code i guess but if no one checks and there is no code enforcement i dont know if that would hold up in court?

 

[pinetree10]

20+ years in the electric industry has taught me a healthy respect for power. People here either know what they're talking about or they don't. EITHER ONE can easily get someone WHO DOESN'T know what they're doing in serious trouble. I'm amazed anyone would take that chance when working with electricity. Oh, but I'd rather look smart here giving advice to someone without regard to their skill set or the consequences. Ignorance is bliss, and since you'll never know if this fella burns down his shed or his kid dies because the floor was wet, you'll go blissfully along.

Settle down. The guy asked for advice and people are offering it. That's the point of these forums. I'm pretty sure he's trying to do the right thing or he wouldn't have bothered to ask.

 

[Inspector507]

does a sub panel in your house need to have a ground rod to it? Im talking i have a 200A pannel in house and on an addition they had a sub panel that is 40A. I replaced it with current box and romex and did it just like it was. Neutral and ground are not bonded and it is on a 40A breaker and has 2, 20A breakers in the sub. There is no ground rod though? Is that right? or do i need a ground rod to the sub?

Since I don't think anyone answered your question, I will. The grounds and neutrals need to be kept separate in your sub panel and no ground rod needed. You'd need the ground rod if the sub panel was in a remote building.

 

[Rock knocker]

If this thread was to be a movie, we would have to get Sam Peckinpah back from the grave to be the director

 

[hr3]

Since I don't think anyone answered your question, I will. The grounds and neutrals need to be kept separate in your sub panel and no ground rod needed. You'd need the ground rod if the sub panel was in a remote building.

First paragraph of the OP's first post,, " It is a shed he is powering" IE remote

 

[Inspector507]

First paragraph of the OP's first post,, " It is a shed he is powering" IE remote

If you look, I was replying to clemsonfor's question.

 

[jinman]

Since I don't think anyone answered your question, I will. The grounds and neutrals need to be kept separate in your sub panel and no ground rod needed. You'd need the ground rod if the sub panel was in a remote building.

My neighbors just called me over to look at a problem they have in a remote bunkhouse. After a nearby lightning strike, they had failures of two heaters, a DVD player, a flat screen TV, and a satellite receiver which were all off during a thunderstorm. All of the heaters had the electronic touchpad controls with remote controls. I explained to them that all those things being "off" was a misnomer. They must remain powered since they have to be able to communicate with the remote. The remote control receiver is on as long as the appliances are plugged in.

I also looked at their sub-panel box and told them that the fellow who wired the box was not an electrician because the neutrals and grounds were tied together. The box did not have a ground rod either. I explained to them that the friend who built their structure was very good, but he just did not understand the fine points of electrical code. I suggested that they not take my word for it, but rather to get a qualified electrician to look at the wiring. I also told them that no surge protector or wiring would protect them from a direct lightning strike, but that properly wired panels with the proper grounding plus good surge protectors could save the equipment in a near-strike environment.

 

[hr3]

If you look, I was replying to clemsonfor's question.

yes I see now,, Lots of post crashers It's hard to tell,, sorry..

 

[buickanddeere]

Not much.
What amazes me are the people who are so rules compliant they can't use the restroom without checking building code.
The house I live in now is 100+ years old. The electric service is from the 70s. And it hasn't burned down yet. None in my neighborhood have yet.

It amazes me how risk adverse some people are.

You maybe happy claiming you are just too much of a "He Man" being obvious to all so strong , fast and smart to avoid perils.
Problem is you have not checked with the local fire department, paramedics, police, hospital staff, physiotherapy clinics, long term care homes and funeral homes. Being a jackleg mechanic, jackleg electrical or jackleg builder will sooner or later catch up with you or someone else. You would also find yourself fired and escorted from the aviation, nuclear, medical, manufacturing and construction sites.
If you have no regard for your own safety, fine. Just don't harm anybody else or expect everybody else to pay.