Subpanel vs breakers in main panel

[cycle_gator]

My advice, spend a couple bucks and consult an electrician who knows the codes for your area. I am seeing advice on here that runs fully against the current NEC, but might be code in your area.

 

[wyeguy]

And your insurance won't pay when something burns down because it wasn't code or done as required by law. Which is best case if someone doesn't get killed. These threads amaze me. What could POSSIBLY go wrong?!!?

 

[sailfast]

Not much.
What amazes me are the people who are so rules compliant they can't use the restroom without checking building code.
The house I live in now is 100+ years old. The electric service is from the 70s. And it hasn't burned down yet. None in my neighborhood have yet.

It amazes me how risk adverse some people are.

 

[wyeguy]

20+ years in the electric industry has taught me a healthy respect for power. People here either know what they're talking about or they don't. EITHER ONE can easily get someone WHO DOESN'T know what they're doing in serious trouble. I'm amazed anyone would take that chance when working with electricity. Oh, but I'd rather look smart here giving advice to someone without regard to their skill set or the consequences. Ignorance is bliss, and since you'll never know if this fella burns down his shed or his kid dies because the floor was wet, you'll go blissfully along.

 

[ultrarunner]

And your insurance won't pay when something burns down because it wasn't code or done as required by law. Which is best case if someone doesn't get killed. These threads amaze me. What could POSSIBLY go wrong?!!?

Code is not universal and some members live in areas that lack building permits/codes or only require for new septics.

Also, code is constantly evolving in my area and thankfully there are provisions for "Code" at time of construction.

I've gone round and round with "Inspectors" that will state something is not code and it is under the provision that it was at the time of Construction...

It really comes down to the advice given freely on the Internet is just that... free advice.

I lived in a home that is 80 years old and still has the 80 year old service with includes Edison fuses, knob and tube wiring and outlets without grounds.

 

[TomSeller]

I would install the remote panel.. The breakers need to be close to the electrical load to function the best. I have seen loads so remote that a dead short did not trip the breaker due to line resistance. 150' is not a lot, but it would certainly be more convenient to have the breakers close.

 

[wyeguy]

I've gone round and round with "Inspectors" that will state something is not code and it is under the provision that it was at the time of Construction...

It really comes down to the advice given freely on the Internet is just that... free advice.

It sounds like you honestly know what you're doing and I respect your opinion. Certainly no disagreement with what you've said.

My opinion on this subject in general is, lack of a code or whatever, if you don't have the expertise, don't take the chance. And I feel an obligation, based on my experiences, to stand by my opinion. Thanks for the discussion.

 

[sd455dan]

I would install the remote panel.. The breakers need to be close to the electrical load to function the best. I have seen loads so remote that a dead short did not trip the breaker due to line resistance. 150' is not a lot, but it would certainly be more convenient to have the breakers close.

Totally agree, about putting in the remote, panel also the price varies greatly on the box, and breakers by Who manufactures them. Can't remember the name of the high priced one but the (homeline) variety can be much less expensive to buy verses other brands, (inside the building use) to the point that one replacement 100 amp breaker for our one time rental house was more money than 6 new breakers and the remote panel and $50 extra in change...

I believe it's money well spent to buy 4 wire ( burial) wire for your out building supply and installing a long ground rod at the out building, the requirements changed during the time we built our out buildings (they now required 4 wire and also ground rods at main and outbuildings) luckily I had decided on the 4 wire and ground rods and had already purchased them.... be careful, 240vac is very unforgiving of mistakes Check your work, verify the wireing, check your work, verify the wireing... please be careful

 

[moeh1]

If you go your original way, you should run 2 white wires out. If you put a GFI in out there, it will need separate neutrals to work properly. I agree with most of the other input to run a line out to a small subbox.

 

[aczlan]

If you go your original way, you should run 2 white wires out. If you put a GFI in out there, it will need separate neutrals to work properly. I agree with most of the other input to run a line out to a small subbox.

Actually, it wont. A GFCI compares how much power is coming into the outlet on the black wire to how much is going back out on the white wire and if there is any difference it shuts it off.
Now, there MUST be 220v between the two black wires if you are going to share the neutral (ie 2 black wires , 1 neutral and 1 ground) otherwise, you could overload the neutral.


Aaron Z