Backhoe first time using a backhoe

[digger2]

Wherever you decide to dig,make SURE of one thing......that theres nothing
buried there that you dont want to dig up.Seriously......
Example,.....running right through the middle of my yard to the one side of my house is guess what,a PHONE LINE.Yes a phone line.There are no markers of any kind anywhere around to indicate there is anything there at all.The reason i know its there is because about 20 years ago a hired guy was here (before i was here) digging postholes for a horsefence.Hit it three times,put half the neighborhood out of service.You would'nt think there would be a reason to bury one through my yard when theres phone poles right out along the road,but they do it sometimes.
Not telling you what to do but before you do any digging,better make a phone call to the outfit who comes to your property to show you where
"something" might be buried.Then make a map of it for future referance.

digger2

 

[Localmotion]

Small back hoes in general move real Quick. Set your hydraulic to as slow as it will go. Run your engine at a modest RPM, for most work 1,100 -1,200 is plenty. Even with a load on the hoe, if its moving, just let it work and don't get in a hurry. It will take a little while to get the "Touch", hang in there and be patient.

Other than that Have Fun & Enjoy.:thumbsup:

Beware of setting the RPM to anything other than that recomended in the user manual - if you don't have auser manual set it to the correct RPM for PTO speed. While Crash is right that it will slow the machine down, it will also put extra stess onto the hydraulic pump - most hydraulic systems ares designed to work at a set RPM only and altering this can cause real damage. Likwise don't up the revs to try and make it go quicker!

Best advice (as has already been said) is to find a spot where you can't hit anything (or dig anything up like cables / pipes etc) and just practice, preactice, practice :thumbsup: You will quickly learn the best techniques to do what you want to achieve.

 

[Stonehaller]

Actually, that is incorrect on an open-center system. Max pump pressure IS RPM-dependent.

Sorry JayC, RPM does not significantly affect pressure. The flow rate increases with RPM which will increase the speed of the hoe movements. Everyone correctly says to reduce the RPM for learning the hoe as it will reduce the flow rate and slow the hoe down. Pressure is controlled by the relief valve.

 

[MikeD74T]

Actually, that is incorrect on an open-center system. Max pump pressure IS RPM-dependent.
Running at 1200 RPMs is good advice for learning, but I know I tired quickly of a slow-moving 'hoe. I have a 9' Woods on my L4200. I usually run at 2000-2100 RPMs (~90% 540 PTO speed), and occasionally will kick it up to full blast (~2300) if I'm in a rush.
To the OP - just go do it. Start with low RPMs, and increase speed as you get better. You'll never believe when you dig your first hole, but it'll become second nature - you'll be doing 4-way feathering and running like a pro in no time.
JayC

Sorry JayC, RPM does not significantly affect pressure. The flow rate increases with RPM which will increase the speed of the hoe movements. Everyone correctly says to reduce the RPM for learning the hoe as it will reduce the flow rate and slow the hoe down. Pressure is controlled by the relief valve.

In practice the truth lies somewhere between. Relief valve only controls maximum pressure. Hydraulic pumps are never 100% efficient therefore one must overcome leakage to make operating pressure which requires a certain minimum pump speed. Runnning a pump continuously at below relief valve pressure AND low flow condition (i.e. stalled piston) can cause fluid overheating. One would almost have to do this intentionally.

To the OP: Because the piston sizes vary with function use enough RPM to be able to support simultaneous multiple piston movement which is what's needed to dig effectively. Initially excessive RPMs will only result in jerking the machine around & your frustration. Over time you'll develop muscle memory, your movements will smooth out, & you'll be able to use more speed.
ABSOLUTELY keep bystanders well out of reach of the machine & potential flying spoils. Have fun!! MikeD74T

 

[fredhargis]

I turned my garden over the first time I used it. It does take practice...something I'm still working on.

 

[Qapla]

Wherever you decide to dig,make SURE of one thing......that theres nothing buried there that you don't want to dig up.Seriously......

If you are in the middle of your own field and "KNOW" there is nothing there, dig away. However, in many places it is REQUIRED that you have utilities located before you dig (in Florida you just cal 811 - it is free)

So, check and make sure of locates before you dig something up you shouldn't and/or get fined for not having a "locate permit". :thumbsup:

 

[CurlyDave]

1. Buy and read the book by Gary Ober. Just skim it and then when you need to do a specific task come back & look that one up.

2. Before you even get on the machine, plan out what you are going to do and the order in which the different stages take place.

3. Think--how are you going to start the dig, and how are you going to end it? A lot of times it is much easier to dig/trench in one direction than the other because of the way the trench either starts or ends. Once you have dug 90% of it and it becomes clear you should have started from the other end, it is too late.

4. Think ahead, where are you going to put the spoils and how are you going to move them back when you are done. The best way to dig is where you can put the spoils uphill of the trench. This is because picking up a load of dirt and moving it downhill can make the backhoe tippy. When you have to pile spoils downhill be aware the machine can tip over and set up to prevent that.

Fill the FEL bucket with almost a full scoop of dirt, gravel or rock before beginning to dig. Adds a lot of stability.

5. If you have to set the FEL bucket, or the outriggers on asphalt, use a piece of 5/8 or thicker plywood to prevent scarring the asphalt.

 

[zmjc]

Another use for that beer is to drink it while reading a BOOK about the TLB- I'm surprised no one has mentioned that.
I have a copy of "Operating Techniques for the Tractor-Loader-Backhoe", by Gary J. Ober, pub 1982.

Thanks, that's a useful book to know about. I'm ordering a copy...

 

[bironacad]

Thanks for all the replies, as it turned out, I did not get to use the backhoe this weekend.

I intend to play in the field first as recommended, lol, the siding on the house is too new. I put most of the piping in the ground over the years remembering where is the challenge. My property is rural no gas lines to worry about where I am at. Actually I will be doing a lot of practice before I start my foundation later in June. The information in the operators manual (RTFM) I read when they delivered the tractor but will need looking at again. Just checked the availability of "Operating Techniques for the Tractor-Loader-Backhoe", by Gary J. Ober, pub 1982. and was surprised at the price difference between the States and here on Amazon.com/ca we seem to still get the shaft on pricing even with the buck above par, lol.

Thanks again and I will check in later to see if there are any more tid bits, your help and experience is quite an asset to have available.:thumbsup:

 

[CompactTractorFan]

I turned my garden over the first time I used it. It does take practice...something I'm still working on.

How did that work out? I was thinking of doing the same...

 

[Hematite]

The Gary Ober book is a must. I bought it and studied it and I'm glad I did. There is so much good information from beginning to learn to very advanced TLB techniques. A great reference to refresh your memory as well. :thumbsup:

 

[pat32rf]

My garden is only about 12' wide, so I can make one trip along it with the hoe before renting the rototiller. It lets the soil dry quicker and works in the ashes that we've dumped over the winter. Then I get the tiller and do the top 4" in loose soil, instead of fighting stuff that has packed/settled down all winter...

 

[bironacad]

Finally got on the backhoe attached and working, lol. Taking it off the tractor seemed no big deal but putting it back on was a challenge. It appears that the frame is about a 1/2" to tight. Anyway was out in the field and dug up some jack pine stumps and buried them as someone once said sure beets a shovel.:thumbsup:

 

[bironacad]

Adjusted the BackHoe's frame so that it attaches in 20 minutes (have to take off the lift arms that adds a couple of minutes). I removed a couple of stumps yesterday and even got to use the mechanical thumb it was a blast! Thanks for all the tips and shared experience!