Tooth bar!!!

/ Tooth bar!!! #1  

stormpetrel

Gold Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2010
Messages
353
Location
Block Island R.I.
Tractor
ym2210D
Mounted the tooth bar; started digging a pit to burn all the brush we cleared and piled w/the grapple. The next best thing to heavy equipment!! and only 26 hp!! I was very surprised and gratified that I was able to get a full bucket of dirt with every pass, the thing worked better than I expected. Very useful.....I love it!!

The bad news? My engine is definitely overheating. I "shot" the cylinder head with an infra red thermometer and got 190 (!) So....back to the drawing board.
It seems worse than before. Someone recommended flushing the radiator, maybe I'll try that first. Otherwise, is there any way to rule out the water pump, or otherwise test it?

BTW, my eleven year old son, Andre, got his first seat time. Taught him how to operate, as I walked alongside to make sure there were no mishaps. He loved it.....nice!!!!
 

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/ Tooth bar!!! #2  
Mounted the tooth bar; started digging a pit to burn all the brush we cleared and piled w/the grapple. The next best thing to heavy equipment!! and only 26 hp!! I was very surprised and gratified that I was able to get a full bucket of dirt with every pass, the thing worked better than I expected. Very useful.....I love it!!

The bad news? My engine is definitely overheating. I "shot" the cylinder head with an infra red thermometer and got 190 (!) So....back to the drawing board.
It seems worse than before. Someone recommended flushing the radiator, maybe I'll try that first. Otherwise, is there any way to rule out the water pump, or otherwise test it?

BTW, my eleven year old son, Andre, got his first seat time. Taught him how to operate, as I walked alongside to make sure there were no mishaps. He loved it.....nice!!!!

Nice looking work:thumbsup:

I don't recall what all you did in the way of the temperature troubleshooting but have you checked the radiator with the cap off at about 1500rpm? My 1900 has a lot of water flowing at that rpm. I ran it today for about 3 hours pushing dead trees and digging up brush and the engine barely got warm to the touch on the head and block. I don't have a thermostat so that is probably why. Radiators tend to get plugged up at the end farthest away from the return line and you can't see it except the flow will be slower when looking through the cap. At that rpm it should look like a river flowing past the cap.
 
/ Tooth bar!!! #3  
Very cool, glad you shared.

What makes you concerned that your cylinder head is 190 deg F? That seems well within the acceptable range to me.
 
/ Tooth bar!!!
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Very cool, glad you shared.

What makes you concerned that your cylinder head is 190 deg F? That seems well within the acceptable range to me.

The operating temp should be no higher than 170.....the water was more or less boiling!!:eek:

I'll try Gary's suggestion, and run her at 1500 RPMs and check flow.
 
/ Tooth bar!!! #5  
Why do you think it's running hot, and what does "more or less boiling" mean? Head temp, (500-600* depending on where you check), has very little to do with water temp. Where did you get the 170* figure?
Actually I would back-flush the system only because of not knowing when it was last done.
 
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/ Tooth bar!!! #6  
Sure does make project list heck of alot easier...nice burn pile for holiday winter night ;)

I'd say your son has nack for operating..less seat time for dad. ;)
 
/ Tooth bar!!!
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Why do you think it's running hot, and what does "more or less boiling mean"? Head temp, (500-600* depending on where you check), has very little to do with water temp. Where did you get the 170* figure?
Actually I would back-flush the system only because of not knowing when it was last done.

Someone posted a link to the 2210 engine operating temp......150-170 was the range. The radiator was boiling over into the bottle after it was shut down. I "shot" the water with the temp gun.....low 200s. Overheating.:(

The guy who owned the tractor before me was meticulous; had flushed the radiator a couple of years ago. He had also rebuilt the front axle seals, one of which now leaks. So I guess a 30+ year old radiator might need a little attention......
 
/ Tooth bar!!! #9  
I must buy a Yanmar tractor I must buy a Yanmar tractor I must buy a Yanmar tractor I must buy a Yanmar tractor I must buy a Yanmar tractor I must buy a Yanmar tractor I must buy a Yanmar tractor I must buy a Yanmar tractor I must buy a Yanmar tractor I must buy a Yanmar
tractor:laughing::laughing::laughing:

Are you building up pressure in the cooling system? 190 200 is ok as long as you have some cooling system pressure, which raises the boiling temp of the coolant.
 
/ Tooth bar!!! #10  
"The radiator was boiling over into the bottle after it was shut down. I "shot" the water with the temp gun.....low 200s. Overheating.:("

That's a lot different than 190* at the head. I would back-flush, replace rad cap if not new, no help, replace head gasket.
 
/ Tooth bar!!!
  • Thread Starter
#11  
"The radiator was boiling over into the bottle after it was shut down. I "shot" the water with the temp gun.....low 200s. Overheating.:("

That's a lot different than 190* at the head. I would back-flush, replace rad cap if not new, no help, replace head gasket.

What about the water pump? Is the 2210 engine "pumpless"?
 
/ Tooth bar!!!
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Fired her up & ran @ 1500 RPMs.......crazy flow. That rules the water pump out.
I also looked very carefully at the overflow bottle for bubbles. Not a one. Now, I DID notice that the radiator was loaded with fluffy vegetation (from 'hogging) which I had cleaned a few times. It seems like the stuff has worked it's way into the radiator, I think it needs to be blown out somehow to clean it good. I think that's more likely to be the problem, seeing how it's been getting progressively worse. I'm thinking a pre-radiator screen might be a great idea; could keep the vegetation away from the radiator:thumbsup:

How big a job is it to remove the radiator? Has anyone done that? Might be best to really clean it.
 
/ Tooth bar!!! #13  
I over heated twice while brush hogging. I wait till the end of the year when everything is brown and dead... clogs up pretty fast. Once you have it cleaned up, water stream and air pressure, you could try blocking some of that organic matter with a screen.
 
/ Tooth bar!!! #14  
I bought my Ym2000 basicly or mostly for Mowing. I mean ALOT that is mostly Kept fairway cond. And a Zero Turn Forget it,Not me!!! Get Beat to Dang Death....... With the R-Discharge FM.I don't pickup alot of grass in the Radiator but I have a Screen on mine. Not much to clean just unclip it.:cool: Just Noticed. You think my Ghetto Rig Thermal check ball works:laughing:

Carey
 

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/ Tooth bar!!!
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I bought my Ym2000 basicly or mostly for Mowing. I mean ALOT that is mostly Kept fairway cond. And a Zero Turn Forget it,Not me!!! Get Beat to Dang Death....... With the R-Discharge FM.I don't pickup alot of grass in the Radiator but I have a Screen on mine. Not much to clean just unclip it.:cool: Just Noticed. You think my Ghetto Rig Thermal check ball works:laughing:

Carey

I like it!!!!! I just noticed my own TS.....finally understood it wasn't just talk on TBN,that I actually have one!!!!! Do I have to fill it with fuel?

The tractor has started pretty good, but I notice she cranks longer and longer before firing as the weather gets colder. I'll have to try the old TS out:D
 
/ Tooth bar!!! #16  
Fired her up & ran @ 1500 RPMs.......crazy flow. That rules the water pump out.
I also looked very carefully at the overflow bottle for bubbles. Not a one. Now, I DID notice that the radiator was loaded with fluffy vegetation (from 'hogging) which I had cleaned a few times. It seems like the stuff has worked it's way into the radiator, I think it needs to be blown out somehow to clean it good. I think that's more likely to be the problem, seeing how it's been getting progressively worse. I'm thinking a pre-radiator screen might be a great idea; could keep the vegetation away from the radiator:thumbsup:

How big a job is it to remove the radiator? Has anyone done that? Might be best to really clean it.

It also rules out a plugged up radiator. Mine overheated a few years ago when the radiator and screen got plugged up with fine weed pollen/grass. I just used a garden hose and ran water through it from the back and that took care of it. Now I do it a couple times a year and it has never overheated since.
 
/ Tooth bar!!! #17  
i thought all of the greys would have had the mesh infront of the radiator unless it had been thrown away by previous owners??
 
/ Tooth bar!!!
  • Thread Starter
#18  
i thought all of the greys would have had the mesh infront of the radiator unless it had been thrown away by previous owners??

It makes sense.....anyone know?

Anyhoo....went out in the rain this morning and thoroughly washed the radiator out. Than ran her at 2000 RPMs til nice and warm. This time the top of the engine was barely 140, warm to the touch. I suppose it would have been warmer under a heavy working load, but I did lift the tractor up with the FEL to simulate that. I'll know better when I work her hard, but it seems to have done the trick:cool:

BTW; what about the old thermostart? Do I have to fill the little cup w/fuel?

One last thing....the fuel tank is looking caved in!! It must have lost a gallon or two of volume. It seems to be collapsing as the fuel is drawn out of the tank. Is there some kind of vent that is supposed to prevent this? Has anyone else had this problem???
 
/ Tooth bar!!! #19  
It makes sense.....anyone know?

Anyhoo....went out in the rain this morning and thoroughly washed the radiator out. Than ran her at 2000 RPMs til nice and warm. This time the top of the engine was barely 140, warm to the touch. I suppose it would have been warmer under a heavy working load, but I did lift the tractor up with the FEL to simulate that. I'll know better when I work her hard, but it seems to have done the trick:cool:

BTW; what about the old thermostart? Do I have to fill the little cup w/fuel?

One last thing....the fuel tank is looking caved in!! It must have lost a gallon or two of volume. It seems to be collapsing as the fuel is drawn out of the tank. Is there some kind of vent that is supposed to prevent this? Has anyone else had this problem???

If The TS bottle has a cap on it you have to fill it. If it has no top and 3 lines going to it you still have to fill it the first time and after that it should keep itself filled. That is the principle anyway. I'm still waiting for mine to show anything going back to it. Some tractors seem to fill faster than others.

My fuel tank cap does not have a vent in it but the injector fuel return line doesn't fit all that tight so it gets enough air into the tank around it. Otherwise you will need to loosen the cap a little or get a cap that has a vent in it to keep the tank from sucking in.
 
/ Tooth bar!!! #20  
I have seen it posted that the plastic strainer under the fuel cap someway has a venting action. Been stated that if it is taken out the tank will not vent properly. Do I have first hand experience? NO!. Mine does have the strainer and it does vent. :D Yanmar Tractor Parts: STRAINER FUEL T
 

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