Chainsaw Bar Oil

   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #1  

Rat Rod Mac

Silver Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2006
Messages
177
Just wondering what weight oil is the oil that Stihl uses on the chainsaw bar. I buy it by the gallon at the Stihl dealers shop. Wondering if there could be a substitute around the farm here that I could use instead of buying the Stihl oil. A friend works at a factory and uses oil from the machines there. He calls it Way and Slide lube. It's heavy and sticky, like maybe 60 weight or so. Would gear EP 90 work, Have a bunch of that. Used for rearends and such. Just wondering,, Thanks. RRM
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #2  
Why risk your $500 saw? Well really the $30 chain and $50 bar but why risk it? I see no need to use Still brand oil but I would use a Bar oil. I get mine at WalMart or TSC for $5 a gallon. Maybe use 2-3 gallons a year but more like 1-2 gallons on average so its not breaking the bank. Kind of like walking over a dollar to pick up a penny in my eyes because I just bough a 5 gallon pale of 80W90 gear oil and it was $54 so that's over $10 per gallon.

Not stomping you here just trying to give you another view point. By the way my saw say's if bar oil is not available I can use 30W motor oil in a pinch.

Chris
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #3  
tsc and walmart have 1g jugs of 'cheap' sticky bar and chain oil... hard to beat them prices..

soundguy
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #4  
30 years ago we used old engine motor oil and our saws were just as expensive in comparison as they are now. Back they a saw had metal in it and the bars were hard. 30 weight in the summer and 10 in the winter. With the new saws of today there is so much plastic that a real heavy oil will destroy the plastic gears in the oil pump.
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #5  
used motor oil in a saw is a great way to put contaminates and heavy metals into the environment.. :) glad bar oil is soooo cheap now....

soundguy
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #6  
I knew a guy who used old motor oil and constantly wore out bars and oil pump. Wonder why? All that curd floating around in the oil maybe?

Chris
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #7  
For the bar I just use the cheapest mid-weight motor oil I can find. I've use the same bar and 2 chains for the last 15 years.
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #8  
I don't use the name brand Stihl or Husky bar oils just the generic bar oils that I get from the hardware stores around me. I would stick to what ever that is because it is sticky enough to ride out the whole rotation of the chain. Old motor oil does have a lot of contaminates in it and may cost you an oil pump or at the very least extra wear and tear on your bar and chain. I probably go through 6 gallons or more a year.
If you want to be earth friendly take your old car oil to the Recycle places if you have them. They clean it up and send it to your local Golden Arches to cook your french fries in I think.:licking:
Did a quick google search and found this link just in case you were interested.

http://forum.doityourself.com/archive/index.php/t-316758.html
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #9  
I cut and Burn 12+ Cords per year. I have 4 Stihl Saws. I have used a dozen brands of Bar oil and any of them were and are much better than Motor Oil. Use Bar Oil. Its Cheap at $5.00 gln. Recycle your dirty old Motor Oil.

Thanks...:)
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #10  
With the new saws of today there is so much plastic that a real heavy oil will destroy the plastic gears in the oil pump.


Hmmmm, I bought a gallon of 'Pro Mix' or whatever it is bar oil at Lowes when I picked up my 'homeowner' Husky. If I leave the saw sitting 'upright' it will all leak out, I have to leave it laying on it's side. I was thinking of getting some 'real' Stihl oil as I remember it being very sticky stuff... maybe that wouldn't be a good idea?
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #11  
That is why you use Stihl and Husky oil. Stihl has the best oils, and the best chains. Husky has good oils too.

That is why my 35 year old Husky runs and cuts really well. And my Dad's 30 year old Stihl cuts like a champ.

Anything though, is better than used motor oil :eek:

Why risk your $500 saw? Well really the $30 chain and $50 bar but why risk it?
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #12  
Hmmmm, I bought a gallon of 'Pro Mix' or whatever it is bar oil at Lowes when I picked up my 'homeowner' Husky. If I leave the saw sitting 'upright' it will all leak out, I have to leave it laying on it's side. I was thinking of getting some 'real' Stihl oil as I remember it being very sticky stuff... maybe that wouldn't be a good idea?

I wouldn't put it down to the oil You are using just yet . Try loosening the oil tank cap when You are done with the saw for the day . It's worked for Me on a couple of saws . The worst offender was My XP346 for some reason ,and at the time it was fed only Husqvarna or Stihl bar oil .
I've since gone on to Using TSC , Lowes along with The Husq, and Stihl oil .
No drips ,or leaks .
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #13  
As a natural sceptic I have a problem with this claim that bar oils have 'stickiness additives'. I'd like to see some proof other than the advertising blurb. For one thing the claim seems contrary to another oft quoted claim that bar oils are also formulated to 'throw off dirt and chips'. I'd suggest that a motor oil of an equal weight is equally suitable in most cases.

For more additive claims that didn't stand up to scrutiny... Car maintenance bibles: Oil Additives
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #14  
As a natural sceptic I have a problem with this claim that bar oils have 'stickiness additives'. I'd like to see some proof other than the advertising blurb.

What kind of proof do you need:confused: All you have to do is look and feel...the bar oils I've used definitely are "tacky/sticky" almost to the point of being stringy...

I'm in the camp of using bar oil rather than pinch a few pennies with used motor oil.


BTW the Makita/Domar I bought a few weeks back is the first saw of many I've had that doesn't leak oil into the case when sitting:thumbsup: Admittedly all its predecessors have been "consumer grade" McCullochs and Homelites.
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #15  
As a natural sceptic I have a problem with this claim that bar oils have 'stickiness additives'.

I don't know whether you would call it "additives" or not, but I found it very easy to see and feel the difference between bar oil and motor oil.
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #16  
All you have to do is look and feel...the bar oils I've used definitely are "tacky/sticky" almost to the point of being stringy...

Right, bar oil is definitely stickier , almost like maple syrup...now dont use that in your saw

:licking:
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #17  
yep.. I have sae 30w engine oil and bar oil int he shop.. I'V ACCIDENTALLY GRABBED THE WRONG BOTTLE AND YOU CAN TELL IT'S LIKE SYRUP POURING..

( sorry.. caps on this small netbook)

SOUNDGUY
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #18  
What kind of proof do you need:confused: All you have to do is look and feel...the bar oils I've used definitely are "tacky/sticky" almost to the point of being stringy...

I'm in the camp of using bar oil rather than pinch a few pennies with used motor oil.


BTW the Makita/Domar I bought a few weeks back is the first saw of many I've had that doesn't leak oil into the case when sitting:thumbsup: Admittedly all its predecessors have been "consumer grade" McCullochs and Homelites.

Add me to that camp, the stuff is pure misery to get rid of once you spill some. It's like never-seize, spill a drop on your foot and before you know it your hair is sticky..:)

I use whatever bar and chain oil I can lay hands on, whether I'm at the Stihl dealer when I remember I need some, or at the hardware store. Both are reasonably priced for what they do.

I'm likely one of the most miserly people you'd come across, not to be confused with cheap. I should qualify that comment, because the difference isn't always apparent..

Definition of miserly: Willing to lie in wait for days, weeks, or months to get the best deal on something that entirely suits my purpose and gives me no trouble. Not to be interfered with whilst on the quest for "the deal of the century" at risk of getting bitten, flailed at, or stepped on.

Definition of cheap: Barely willing to spend very little money on something that might work, needs extensive repair, or is quite likely to make my life living hel*, just because I got a "good deal" on it.

I normally use my saws on weekends, mostly for firewood or clearing wind falls.

Until further notice, each weekend only includes two days, which shall be referred to as "first" and "last". If it's raining on one day, "first" and "last" merge into one day the length of which is measured in "degrees of frenzy".

Did I mention a wife, three cats, two horses, and a hungry wood stove?

I get pretty cranky when either (or God forbid both) of those two days is spent doing repairs that I could have avoided by either getting the right stuff to begin with, or by not straying from "miserly" to "cheap".

Every time I get the urge to be cheap, I ask myself, "Ok self, what is that going to mean on day "xx" late in the afternoon after the stores have closed, and/or you have to drive 50 miles to get parts, which may be on back order until the turn of the century?"

I usually see the light.

Sorry for the ramble, some days I just can't help myself.

Chilly
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #19  
I wouldn't put it down to the oil You are using just yet . Try loosening the oil tank cap when You are done with the saw for the day . It's worked for Me on a couple of saws . The worst offender was My XP346 for some reason ,and at the time it was fed only Husqvarna or Stihl bar oil .
I've since gone on to Using TSC , Lowes along with The Husq, and Stihl oil .
No drips ,or leaks .

A lot of the newer Huskies have had oil leaks, for whatever reason. Whether it's a natural siphoning action, I don't know. I've been blessed with "tight" saws, for which I'm eternally grateful.

The newer Husky consumer saws, the 136 is a prime example, have oiler problems in that they don't deliver enough oil. The 137 cured that problem, I'm told. Mine have the adjustable oilers, if anything the 242 I have delivers too much, even at the lower end of the adjustment.

Chilly
 
   / Chainsaw Bar Oil #20  
That was beautiful!

Add me to that camp, the stuff is pure misery to get rid of once you spill some. It's like never-seize, spill a drop on your foot and before you know it your hair is sticky..:)

I use whatever bar and chain oil I can lay hands on, whether I'm at the Stihl dealer when I remember I need some, or at the hardware store. Both are reasonably priced for what they do.

I'm likely one of the most miserly people you'd come across, not to be confused with cheap. I should qualify that comment, because the difference isn't always apparent..

Definition of miserly: Willing to lie in wait for days, weeks, or months to get the best deal on something that entirely suits my purpose and gives me no trouble. Not to be interfered with whilst on the quest for "the deal of the century" at risk of getting bitten, flailed at, or stepped on.

Definition of cheap: Barely willing to spend very little money on something that might work, needs extensive repair, or is quite likely to make my life living hel*, just because I got a "good deal" on it.

I normally use my saws on weekends, mostly for firewood or clearing wind falls.

Until further notice, each weekend only includes two days, which shall be referred to as "first" and "last". If it's raining on one day, "first" and "last" merge into one day the length of which is measured in "degrees of frenzy".

Did I mention a wife, three cats, two horses, and a hungry wood stove?

I get pretty cranky when either (or God forbid both) of those two days is spent doing repairs that I could have avoided by either getting the right stuff to begin with, or by not straying from "miserly" to "cheap".

Every time I get the urge to be cheap, I ask myself, "Ok self, what is that going to mean on day "xx" late in the afternoon after the stores have closed, and/or you have to drive 50 miles to get parts, which may be on back order until the turn of the century?"

I usually see the light.

Sorry for the ramble, some days I just can't help myself.

Chilly
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

Bobcat T66 (A60462)
Bobcat T66 (A60462)
48in Forks and Frame Skid Steer Attachment (A56857)
48in Forks and...
Forklift (A56857)
Forklift (A56857)
2003 INTERNATIONAL 9900I (INOPERABLE) (A58214)
2003 INTERNATIONAL...
2019 CHEVROLET SILVERADO CREW CAB TRUCK (A59823)
2019 CHEVROLET...
Yanmar YT359 (A53317)
Yanmar YT359 (A53317)
 
Top