Best and worst chainsaw?

[walhondingMF]

I am about to give the first run of DGP bar oil once my tank runs empty. I think it can be bought rebranded for dewalt also. Buckin Billy Ray swears by it and there free samples at the Paul Bunyon show. Its a biodegradable oil.

 

[Jstpssng]

I would have an electric in a heartbeat except for one factor: the intended use for the chainsaw acquisition: To sit unused, in all probability never used, but be able to be used in a "Break Glass In Case of Emergency".

It would be stored in a case with an extra bar and chains, PPE, etc. The intended emergency use would be for cutting a downed tree on a road when performing emergency egress. As I mentioned, in all probability it would never be used. The dilemma is 1. A gasoline model with possible dried-out hoses/seals, or 2. An electric model with batteries beyond their useful life when the emergency occurs 5-8-10 years down the line.

I have been told, and probably accurately, that the gas models will sustain drying out/rubber rot from being stored in "New-in-the-box" condition. I have not found empirical data to support that as of yet. (I no longer live where I can annually "exercise" a saw by using it.)

No easy solutions at this point.

In your case, why worry about it? If it does happen, call somebody with a chainsaw to deal with it. I might get hit by a Tsunami someday. I'm 60 miles inland so it's unlikely, but it could happen! Should I keep a life jacket nearby, just in case?

 

[DarkBlack]

In your case, why worry about it? If it does happen, call somebody with a chainsaw to deal with it. I might get hit by a Tsunami someday. I'm 60 miles inland so it's unlikely, but it could happen! Should I keep a life jacket nearby, just in case?

Or simply buy and store an old school bow saw

 

[halfBaked2024]

I will start cutting firewood in the coming months which made me wonder, "what's my best and worst chainsaw?" I'm not extremely picky on brands but my experience with Echo is mixed and is limited to one model with Stihl. Aside from a basic homeowner, inexpensive poulan I've had 3 chainsaws.

My first "farm/commercial" grade purchase was the echo cs590 "timberwolf." Bought it bout 9 years ago (?). My favorite saw. 20" bar and cuts everything I've thrown at it. I've cut firewood: we heat our home with a Lopi wood stove. I've trimmed trees and cleared well over 1,000 cedar off of 70 acres. This saw is my favorite. It's a bit heavy for trimming and clearing cedars.

I wanted a lighter saw so, I stuck with Echo and bought the 4510 with an 18" bar. This saw never ran right. Finicky bout idling. I struggled with it for a few months. My dealer (who is great) tweaked it. Ran a bit better. I even started buying the echo premix fuel. I've always used premix but upgraded to echo's red "something." Somehow, that saw burned up and I threw it away after less than a year. The dealer said water somehow got in the fuel. I'm not sure how that could have happened. Regardless, I never liked the saw so I didn't press it.

I then picked up the Stihl ms250 with an 18" bar. This is a great saw. Lighter than the echo. And, starts a bit easier. But, it doesn't cut as efficient. I use both saws and appreciate them. The cs590 remains my favorite. It just cuts so dang fast and sometimes the weight works for me. Even when I'm sawing cedars horizontal the speed may offset the weight.

I do want a new saw. I'm thinking about a new cs590. What's your experience for best all around saw. By all around, I mean firewood and property mtnce (clearing cedar, fenceline cleaning, even cutting brush and underbrush).

You had me at Timberwolf: Japanese carb instead of Chinese - will not quit! It’s actually still a consumer-grade saw in disguise, but like your favorite Labrador, will never let you down. There are commercial upgrades available for it if you search.

Makes sure you get the “E” series blades instead of the “D”s just make sure you then hang on to what will become your handheld wood chipper.

 

[Bmantel]

This is just not good advice. Not only does is the Stihl HP ultra synthetic two stroke oils one of the better ones on the market its also very low carbon, especially in the Stihl 4mix 4 stroke engines. Ran it for over a decade in all my 2 stroke stuff and they all ran amazing with very little to no smoke and never had an issue with carbon on the valves of my 4Mix engines or carbon issues on the muffler screens ever. Only reason I switched to Amsoil a few years ago was because I didn't like the smell of the HP Ultra. 80:1 Amsoil Saber is run in everything now and I will never go back to more than 50:1. Also adding more oil than recommended by the MFG as well as the wrong type (like marine oil) can cause more harm than good. Too much oil in the mixture can lean out the air/ fuel ratio and cause a lean condition which makes more heat, seen more than a few saws ruined from too much oil in the mixture because some people think more oil is better. Plus who like having oil spitting out of their exhaust everywhere? 40:1 is probably ok but there is no reason for it anymore and I certainly wouldn't be advising others to run the wrong oil type and ratio.

Sorry, but to say motorcycles and marine two cycles are that different type of engine and will require a different oils is not true.

I can't comment on how lean someone ran their engines, and that is always a potential issue. Never burned out one yet. Lately, on a older (>15 yrs) Kombi power head, I finally got pissed off enough as it became hard to start and decided to do something about it. So went down to the dealer and inquired about a rebuild kit for the carb - $45. On a whim how much for a new carb? $52. Ok I see where this is going!

But since I have modified and made the muffler better breathing, I slotted the mixture control screws and retached and reset the mixture. Done. Factory settings are on the lean side to begin with and additional airflow requires additional fuel.

No idea why you are mentioning a 4 stroke engine..... I thought we were talking 2 strokes... ???? But I do agree that a small amount of 2 cycle oil may assist with lubricity issues in 4 cy valves.

I agree that Amsoil and VP are good oils as well as a tc3 rated marine oil.

I do run slightly higher than recommended. But even the higher concentration marine still leaves less carbon deposits than the synthetic Stihl. Why? don't know... But it does.

No oil spitting, lesser smoke with the marine oil too. Had a friend worried that the mix was too oil lean as he was using the Husqvarna oil mix for his saw and he ran out of fuel while doing some maintenance cutting at our gun club. Grabbed my can and filled up, then got worried after cutting for a short time: he was no longer operating in such a dense smoke cloud and he thought I forgot to add oil into the gas. He was quite surprised when I told him it was slightly oil richer than 50/1 recommended.

This is America and you can do what you want so your milage may vary!!!

 

[Bmantel]

I would have an electric in a heartbeat except for one factor: the intended use for the chainsaw acquisition: To sit unused, in all probability never used, but be able to be used in a "Break Glass In Case of Emergency".

It would be stored in a case with an extra bar and chains, PPE, etc. The intended emergency use would be for cutting a downed tree on a road when performing emergency egress. As I mentioned, in all probability it would never be used. The dilemma is 1. A gasoline model with possible dried-out hoses/seals, or 2. An electric model with batteries beyond their useful life when the emergency occurs 5-8-10 years down the line.

I have been told, and probably accurately, that the gas models will sustain drying out/rubber rot from being stored in "New-in-the-box" condition. I have not found empirical data to support that as of yet. (I no longer live where I can annually "exercise" a saw by using it.)

No easy solutions at this point.

Your only gas powered solution is to use 100LL aviation fuel as it does not seem to ever go bad. It's a beautiful Blue color and has a wonderful smell to it before and after it combusts. Go get some from a pilot friend!

I used to run my snowblower dry and then add a gallon of 100LL and run it for a minute. Never had a carb issue in-between seasons. Now I don't care because I use Kubota diesel power for Snow throwing.

Not recommended for long term use because the amount of lead in that fuel is so high it will eventually cause spark plug deposits. But in a emergency, or as seasonal storage use, a tank or two will not cause any issues.

That is unfortunately your only option to combat seal/hose/carb issues for long term "Break the Glass" type storage.

 

[ultrarunner]

This is America and you can do what you want so your milage may vary!!!

2-strokes are getting banned here.

It is illegal to start up a 2-stroke bowers or brush cutter in city limits...

 

[kozal01]

Sorry, but to say motorcycles and marine two cycles are that different type of engine and will require a different oils is not true.

I can't comment on how lean someone ran their engines, and that is always a potential issue. Never burned out one yet. Lately, on a older (>15 yrs) Kombi power head, I finally got pissed off enough as it became hard to start and decided to do something about it. So went down to the dealer and inquired about a rebuild kit for the carb - $45. On a whim how much for a new carb? $52. Ok I see where this is going!

But since I have modified and made the muffler better breathing, I slotted the mixture control screws and retached and reset the mixture. Done. Factory settings are on the lean side to begin with and additional airflow requires additional fuel.

No idea why you are mentioning a 4 stroke engine..... I thought we were talking 2 strokes... ???? But I do agree that a small amount of 2 cycle oil may assist with lubricity issues in 4 cy valves.

I agree that Amsoil and VP are good oils as well as a tc3 rated marine oil.

I do run slightly higher than recommended. But even the higher concentration marine still leaves less carbon deposits than the synthetic Stihl. Why? don't know... But it does.

No oil spitting, lesser smoke with the marine oil too. Had a friend worried that the mix was too oil lean as he was using the Husqvarna oil mix for his saw and he ran out of fuel while doing some maintenance cutting at our gun club. Grabbed my can and filled up, then got worried after cutting for a short time: he was no longer operating in such a dense smoke cloud and he thought I forgot to add oil into the gas. He was quite surprised when I told him it was slightly oil richer than 50/1 recommended.

This is America and you can do what you want so your milage may vary!!!

I never said anything about motorcycles, marine engines are water cooled which dont operate at the higher temps that air cooled 2 strokes (and Stihl 4Mix 4 stroke engines that burn mixed gas ) so different oil formulations are required.

 

[goeduck]

2-strokes are getting banned here.

It is illegal to start up a 2-stroke bowers or brush cutter in city limits...

Can you start them up outside city limits and drive them in running?

Seems like they would have phased it in and stopped purchasing new, leaving existing. Must have been a huge impact to landscapers. I hope it doesn't spread up here.

 

[D'oh]

Sorry, but to say motorcycles and marine two cycles are that different type of engine and will require a different oils is not true.



This is America and you can do what you want so your milage may vary!!!

On the contrary Outboards are Water Cooled and run cooler than Air Cooled Motorcycle Engines. The 2 Stroke Oils have to burn off at a cooler temp/hotter temp.

Ash Content is also different, and most Marine 2 Stroke Oils are Biodegradable. For obvious reasons.

Ultralight 2T Oil

www.3cyl.com

 

[Pecosbill7]

2-strokes are getting banned here.

It is illegal to start up a 2-stroke bowers or brush cutter in city limits...

I would go totally insane if I lived in California. I don’t know how you can stand it.

 

[John_Mc]

Stabil isn't designed to keep water out of your fuel, that's what keeping a clean fuel can is for. Stabil is only a fuel stabilizer, and it does a very good job at that.

Actually, Stabil does also remove water. The Marine Formula Stabil has more of the water-fighting additives, but both Stabil 360 and the regular red Stabil also remove water.

 

[John_Mc]

When it comes to 2 stroke oils, he did some research on that for me as well. The stihl HP is the best, readily available, 2 stroke oil to use FOR A CHAINSAW. My local dealer agrees. He sells Echos, Stihl and Husky, along with all of their oils, premix fuels, etc. He tells people to run the Stihl HP in everything. The plugs and screens in both my ms170 and 562xp are pretty clean.

Interesting - Stihl HP Ultra regularly gets panned on several chainsaw repair sites. It's been a while since I read through the specs and reviewed the comments, so I don't recall all of the details, but if I remember correctly, Stihl Ultra is a JASO "FC" rated oil - a good spec, and definitely a step up from FB rated oils. Stihl HP+ oil also contains no fuel stabilzers. If you use your fuel up quickly, or add your own stabilizer, that may not be a concern for you.

Some of the other name brand oils meet the FD specification, which is a step up from FC: lower ash content, and higher detergency. Husqvarna XP+, RedMax, and Echo Red Armor are als JASO FD rated oils.

So Stihl produces their own 2 stroke oil? Or are they rebranding an oil manufactured by another company?

No, Stihl does not make their own oil. They contract with another manufacturer to make it for their to Stihl specifications. Like @walhondingMF, I had also heard they did this through Castrol, but I can't swear that is the case. Husqvarna XP+ and Redmax 2 cycle oils

 

[ultrarunner]

I would go totally insane if I lived in California. I don’t know how you can stand it.

The frog being slowly cook in water as it's heated...

Many things happen incrementally...

The pandemic wasn't all bad... city inspectors and regulators no where to be found for a couple of years and doors at city hall remained locked...

Unfortunately, a few on the highways decided it was time for free for alls and side shows into the second year but I went more than a year before seeing Highway Patrol out and about.

Now several each day in a 10 minute drive.

 

[5030]

Somehow I missed this thread but I'll put in my 2 cents anyway..

The best chainsaw in my opinion, brand not withstanding, is one that starts on the first or second pull, runs a long time with little upkeep and didn't cost an arm and a leg to purchase.

I just happen to own a few saws myself plus I grind saw chains and sharpen chipper knives for local arborists.

My all time favorite long lasting saw is the Stihl 028 I bought when I was about 22 and I'm 75 now and it's still running and cutting like a scalded dog. Matter of fact, I just replaced the original spark plug. The original one still looked good, believe it or not.

For the last 10 years or so, all my saws are run on canned fuel, in my case Echo Red Armor 50-1.

I'd say my ancient 028 is my best saw but I also own a couple Echo's, a CS top handle Arborists saw as well as a 590 Timber Wolf or Bear or whatever it;s called and a Stihl 075 and a Stihl 090. The last 2 are devoid of fuel and oil and just sit on a shelf. Too heavy for this old man to use anyway. Bought them both new when I bought the 028, many, many moons ago.

Far as I'm concerned for value, you cannot beat an Echo, the new Stihl's are over priced and I don't care for their fuel injection either.

Like I said, the best saw is one that starts on the second pull and runs forever and of course a sharp loop makes or breaks any chainsaw..

 

[Oaktree]

For the last 10 years or so, all my saws are run on canned fuel, in my case Echo Red Armor 50-1.

I'd say my ancient 028 is my best saw but I also own a couple Echo's, a CS top handle Arborists saw as well as a 590 Timber Wolf or Bear or whatever it;s called and a Stihl 075 and a Stihl 090. The last 2 are devoid of fuel and oil and just sit on a shelf. Too heavy for this old man to use anyway. Bought them both new when I bought the 028, many, many moons ago.

Far as I'm concerned for value, you cannot beat an Echo, the new Stihl's are over priced and I don't care for their fuel injection either.

Canned fuel is kind of pricey if you use your saw very much. I keep a couple cans around "just in case", or for equipment that's kind of finicky on fuel, but most of the time just do my own pre-mix. Non-E if I have any, but E10 seems OK too. Generally use it up before it goes stale.

Agree on Echo saws. Got a CS-670 that's probably 25 years old and still going strong. As you noted, starting to get a little heavy but not so much I'm looking for something lighter yet.
Always starts well, when I'm out doing trail maintenance with our snowmobile club I'm usually already cutting while the guys with the Stihls are still trying to get theirs started.

 

[Bmantel]

Actually, Stabil does also remove water. The Marine Formula Stabil has more of the water-fighting additives, but both Stabil 360 and the regular red Stabil also remove water.

I know they say it - but test it and you see!

 

[hayden]

I have a 272 and it is a good saw. Super dependable. I like to use it.

I agree on the spring anti vibe being better than rubber bushings. That is why I said earlier in this thread the Stihl 361 is the best saw going. It has spring antivibe, a true 2 stoke, and non stratified motor.

The 372 is a great saw, but there are two different 372. The later "XP" model is an EPA saw, the earlier non XP is a non stratified motor. The earlier 372 OE is much better than the later 372 XP.

I ran the 500i once for a tank of gas. Boy did that tank go fast. But nice saw...

What is a stratifed motor?

Also, has anyone converted a 262XP without a decompression valve to one that has the valve? Mine can be a horror to start, with very painful snap back if you aren't careful. I switched to one of the Stihl Elastostart handles which helps a lot. Mine is circa 1990 before the decompression valve, and I think I'd have to replace the whole jug to convert.

 

[hayden]

Ran my new Husqvarna 562XP MKII today for the first time.
I'm going to like this saw. Sound reminds me of my old SuperXL. Has that old growl to it.

This is what my logger is using now.

 

[5030]

Stihls are still trying to get theirs started.

Not something I ever had an issue with with my 028 that is old enough to vote. Always pops on the second pull, sometimes the first and I use canned fuel because I'm only an ocassional user. The saws might sit for months and not used. Here lately however, they are getting used almost every day. Had a lot of wind and blow downs. been using my stump grinder a lot as well.

The echo's can be touchy if you don't adhere to the prescribed starting regimen, least the bigger ones. I have a little but mighty CS top handle that thinks it's a big saw...lol Think I mentioned that I work part time at a Kubota dealer who also sells Echo's and you'd be amazed the number of saws that come in for warranty and the owners straight gassed them. Echo nor Stihl nor anyone else warrants stupidity. First thing you do with any saw that comes in for repairs, warranty or otherwise is drain the fuel tank and see what is in it. The public generally flogs saws.