Best and worst chainsaw?

[walhondingMF]

I am about to give the first run of DGP bar oil once my tank runs empty. I think it can be bought rebranded for dewalt also. Buckin Billy Ray swears by it and there free samples at the Paul Bunyon show. Its a biodegradable oil.

 

[Jstpssng]

I would have an electric in a heartbeat except for one factor: the intended use for the chainsaw acquisition: To sit unused, in all probability never used, but be able to be used in a "Break Glass In Case of Emergency".

It would be stored in a case with an extra bar and chains, PPE, etc. The intended emergency use would be for cutting a downed tree on a road when performing emergency egress. As I mentioned, in all probability it would never be used. The dilemma is 1. A gasoline model with possible dried-out hoses/seals, or 2. An electric model with batteries beyond their useful life when the emergency occurs 5-8-10 years down the line.

I have been told, and probably accurately, that the gas models will sustain drying out/rubber rot from being stored in "New-in-the-box" condition. I have not found empirical data to support that as of yet. (I no longer live where I can annually "exercise" a saw by using it.)

No easy solutions at this point.

In your case, why worry about it? If it does happen, call somebody with a chainsaw to deal with it. I might get hit by a Tsunami someday. I'm 60 miles inland so it's unlikely, but it could happen! Should I keep a life jacket nearby, just in case?

 

[DarkBlack]

In your case, why worry about it? If it does happen, call somebody with a chainsaw to deal with it. I might get hit by a Tsunami someday. I'm 60 miles inland so it's unlikely, but it could happen! Should I keep a life jacket nearby, just in case?

Or simply buy and store an old school bow saw

 

[halfBaked2024]

I will start cutting firewood in the coming months which made me wonder, "what's my best and worst chainsaw?" I'm not extremely picky on brands but my experience with Echo is mixed and is limited to one model with Stihl. Aside from a basic homeowner, inexpensive poulan I've had 3 chainsaws.

My first "farm/commercial" grade purchase was the echo cs590 "timberwolf." Bought it bout 9 years ago (?). My favorite saw. 20" bar and cuts everything I've thrown at it. I've cut firewood: we heat our home with a Lopi wood stove. I've trimmed trees and cleared well over 1,000 cedar off of 70 acres. This saw is my favorite. It's a bit heavy for trimming and clearing cedars.

I wanted a lighter saw so, I stuck with Echo and bought the 4510 with an 18" bar. This saw never ran right. Finicky bout idling. I struggled with it for a few months. My dealer (who is great) tweaked it. Ran a bit better. I even started buying the echo premix fuel. I've always used premix but upgraded to echo's red "something." Somehow, that saw burned up and I threw it away after less than a year. The dealer said water somehow got in the fuel. I'm not sure how that could have happened. Regardless, I never liked the saw so I didn't press it.

I then picked up the Stihl ms250 with an 18" bar. This is a great saw. Lighter than the echo. And, starts a bit easier. But, it doesn't cut as efficient. I use both saws and appreciate them. The cs590 remains my favorite. It just cuts so dang fast and sometimes the weight works for me. Even when I'm sawing cedars horizontal the speed may offset the weight.

I do want a new saw. I'm thinking about a new cs590. What's your experience for best all around saw. By all around, I mean firewood and property mtnce (clearing cedar, fenceline cleaning, even cutting brush and underbrush).

You had me at Timberwolf: Japanese carb instead of Chinese - will not quit! It’s actually still a consumer-grade saw in disguise, but like your favorite Labrador, will never let you down. There are commercial upgrades available for it if you search.

Makes sure you get the “E” series blades instead of the “D”s just make sure you then hang on to what will become your handheld wood chipper.

 

[Bmantel]

This is just not good advice. Not only does is the Stihl HP ultra synthetic two stroke oils one of the better ones on the market its also very low carbon, especially in the Stihl 4mix 4 stroke engines. Ran it for over a decade in all my 2 stroke stuff and they all ran amazing with very little to no smoke and never had an issue with carbon on the valves of my 4Mix engines or carbon issues on the muffler screens ever. Only reason I switched to Amsoil a few years ago was because I didn't like the smell of the HP Ultra. 80:1 Amsoil Saber is run in everything now and I will never go back to more than 50:1. Also adding more oil than recommended by the MFG as well as the wrong type (like marine oil) can cause more harm than good. Too much oil in the mixture can lean out the air/ fuel ratio and cause a lean condition which makes more heat, seen more than a few saws ruined from too much oil in the mixture because some people think more oil is better. Plus who like having oil spitting out of their exhaust everywhere? 40:1 is probably ok but there is no reason for it anymore and I certainly wouldn't be advising others to run the wrong oil type and ratio.

Sorry, but to say motorcycles and marine two cycles are that different type of engine and will require a different oils is not true.

I can't comment on how lean someone ran their engines, and that is always a potential issue. Never burned out one yet. Lately, on a older (>15 yrs) Kombi power head, I finally got pissed off enough as it became hard to start and decided to do something about it. So went down to the dealer and inquired about a rebuild kit for the carb - $45. On a whim how much for a new carb? $52. Ok I see where this is going!

But since I have modified and made the muffler better breathing, I slotted the mixture control screws and retached and reset the mixture. Done. Factory settings are on the lean side to begin with and additional airflow requires additional fuel.

No idea why you are mentioning a 4 stroke engine..... I thought we were talking 2 strokes... ???? But I do agree that a small amount of 2 cycle oil may assist with lubricity issues in 4 cy valves.

I agree that Amsoil and VP are good oils as well as a tc3 rated marine oil.

I do run slightly higher than recommended. But even the higher concentration marine still leaves less carbon deposits than the synthetic Stihl. Why? don't know... But it does.

No oil spitting, lesser smoke with the marine oil too. Had a friend worried that the mix was too oil lean as he was using the Husqvarna oil mix for his saw and he ran out of fuel while doing some maintenance cutting at our gun club. Grabbed my can and filled up, then got worried after cutting for a short time: he was no longer operating in such a dense smoke cloud and he thought I forgot to add oil into the gas. He was quite surprised when I told him it was slightly oil richer than 50/1 recommended.

This is America and you can do what you want so your milage may vary!!!

 

[Bmantel]

I would have an electric in a heartbeat except for one factor: the intended use for the chainsaw acquisition: To sit unused, in all probability never used, but be able to be used in a "Break Glass In Case of Emergency".

It would be stored in a case with an extra bar and chains, PPE, etc. The intended emergency use would be for cutting a downed tree on a road when performing emergency egress. As I mentioned, in all probability it would never be used. The dilemma is 1. A gasoline model with possible dried-out hoses/seals, or 2. An electric model with batteries beyond their useful life when the emergency occurs 5-8-10 years down the line.

I have been told, and probably accurately, that the gas models will sustain drying out/rubber rot from being stored in "New-in-the-box" condition. I have not found empirical data to support that as of yet. (I no longer live where I can annually "exercise" a saw by using it.)

No easy solutions at this point.

Your only gas powered solution is to use 100LL aviation fuel as it does not seem to ever go bad. It's a beautiful Blue color and has a wonderful smell to it before and after it combusts. Go get some from a pilot friend!

I used to run my snowblower dry and then add a gallon of 100LL and run it for a minute. Never had a carb issue in-between seasons. Now I don't care because I use Kubota diesel power for Snow throwing.

Not recommended for long term use because the amount of lead in that fuel is so high it will eventually cause spark plug deposits. But in a emergency, or as seasonal storage use, a tank or two will not cause any issues.

That is unfortunately your only option to combat seal/hose/carb issues for long term "Break the Glass" type storage.

 

[ultrarunner]

This is America and you can do what you want so your milage may vary!!!

2-strokes are getting banned here.

It is illegal to start up a 2-stroke bowers or brush cutter in city limits...

 

[kozal01]

Sorry, but to say motorcycles and marine two cycles are that different type of engine and will require a different oils is not true.

I can't comment on how lean someone ran their engines, and that is always a potential issue. Never burned out one yet. Lately, on a older (>15 yrs) Kombi power head, I finally got pissed off enough as it became hard to start and decided to do something about it. So went down to the dealer and inquired about a rebuild kit for the carb - $45. On a whim how much for a new carb? $52. Ok I see where this is going!

But since I have modified and made the muffler better breathing, I slotted the mixture control screws and retached and reset the mixture. Done. Factory settings are on the lean side to begin with and additional airflow requires additional fuel.

No idea why you are mentioning a 4 stroke engine..... I thought we were talking 2 strokes... ???? But I do agree that a small amount of 2 cycle oil may assist with lubricity issues in 4 cy valves.

I agree that Amsoil and VP are good oils as well as a tc3 rated marine oil.

I do run slightly higher than recommended. But even the higher concentration marine still leaves less carbon deposits than the synthetic Stihl. Why? don't know... But it does.

No oil spitting, lesser smoke with the marine oil too. Had a friend worried that the mix was too oil lean as he was using the Husqvarna oil mix for his saw and he ran out of fuel while doing some maintenance cutting at our gun club. Grabbed my can and filled up, then got worried after cutting for a short time: he was no longer operating in such a dense smoke cloud and he thought I forgot to add oil into the gas. He was quite surprised when I told him it was slightly oil richer than 50/1 recommended.

This is America and you can do what you want so your milage may vary!!!

I never said anything about motorcycles, marine engines are water cooled which dont operate at the higher temps that air cooled 2 strokes (and Stihl 4Mix 4 stroke engines that burn mixed gas ) so different oil formulations are required.

 

[goeduck]

2-strokes are getting banned here.

It is illegal to start up a 2-stroke bowers or brush cutter in city limits...

Can you start them up outside city limits and drive them in running?

Seems like they would have phased it in and stopped purchasing new, leaving existing. Must have been a huge impact to landscapers. I hope it doesn't spread up here.

 

[D'oh]

Sorry, but to say motorcycles and marine two cycles are that different type of engine and will require a different oils is not true.



This is America and you can do what you want so your milage may vary!!!

On the contrary Outboards are Water Cooled and run cooler than Air Cooled Motorcycle Engines. The 2 Stroke Oils have to burn off at a cooler temp/hotter temp.

Ash Content is also different, and most Marine 2 Stroke Oils are Biodegradable. For obvious reasons.

Ultralight 2T Oil