Box Scraper Box blade opp. Will it work for me?

[Gittyup]

I've been looking at this boxblade for a year now that a local man has for sell in his pasture. I don't have any photos (yet), but it's a 6' very heavy unit. Looks like it's may be a Gannon. No markings on it (just rust). Anyway, it clearly is very heavy duty with hinged rear blade and is rigged to have retracting scarifiers. But, most parts are missing that control the scarifier bar. Not sure if it was originally hydraulic or mechanical. Also, no scarifiers. I think it takes 6 or 7. The man will let me have it for $150. So here's the questions:

1. Will it be too heavy for my 25 HP Kioti? My tractor is heavy (~ 4500 lbs) as setup now. Gear with R4's.

2. How do I tell what size scarifiers to buy? What will they cost me?

3. Will it be difficult to get the scarifier control back in operation. It looks like all parts of the handle/cylinder/linkages are missing. I'd prefer to go mechanical to save my one set of rear remotes for tnt.

4. Is it worth the cost and trouble to get this thing back in good working order?

 

[thatguy]

For $150 I would be all over it.. To answer your questions..

1) Not sure, but if it is you can always just try to not cut as much..
2) I have seen scarifiers at TSC, they run about $30 each and from what I remember are only in one size
3) ?? - No clue here, but if you get some pics someone will chip in some help
4) YES - would be my answer - BUT the unknown is the hydraulic for the scarifiers..

good luck

brian

 

[Harvey7]

Gittyup, that price is a give away. Your lifting capacity is almost 1800 lbs, I can't imagine that BB weighing too much .... but I haven't seen it.

Good Luck

 

[Gittyup]

Yeah, I know it's cheap. I also know I can lift it. But can I pull it effectively?

Plus, it's gonna take a lot of work to get it back in good working order. Also, by the time I buy the parts I'll probably have $500 in it. If it works as new, it'd still be a great deal (assuming I can then pull it). The missing parts on the scarifier lift just scare me.

 

[Lasgambler]

Gittyup, that price is a give away. Your lifting capacity is almost 1800 lbs, I can't imagine that BB weighing too much .... but I haven't seen it.

Good Luck

I would be all over that deal of $150. The woods/gannon extreme duty comes in at about 800# for a 7 foot. That is about the weight of my Gearmore Hydraulic BS. and I gave $1700 for mine.

If I read your post right, You will need two sets of rear remotes for Top-N-Tilt.
Sounds like a good deal to me. Good Luck, Terry

 

[Ductape]

Plus, it's gonna take a lot of work to get it back in good working order. Also, by the time I buy the parts I'll probably have $500 in it. If it works as new, it'd still be a great deal (assuming I can then pull it). The missing parts on the scarifier lift just scare me.

Well............................. you were needing that new welder,milling machine,plasma,sandblast cabinet,and HVLP gun anyway.

 

[digger2]

If it was me,unless i used a box blade ALOT,i'd convert it to mechanical
and forget the fancy stuff.
Really,in todays world,whats $150 anyway.Run over tommorrow and get it.

Digger2

 

[thatguy]

BTW - Just where are you located? Mid-Atlantic could be anywhere, even Bermuda.. If you arent interested, i may be if its close enough..

Brian

 

[Gittyup]

OK. I stopped and looked at closely again. I hadn't looked at it since summer. So, was going from memory. It turns out it has all its scarifiers and most of the parts for the bar lift (I think). It turns out that it is a GILL and is very very heavy. It's missing the rear blade. But, the guy will throw in the blade in the photo for another $10. I'll have to cut it to length and drill new holes in the hinge plate because the hole pattern is different.

Photos attached. What do you think? Anyone have one like this that could share a picture of how the lift mechanism is supposed to work? It looks like it was mechanical spring assist with some wire cable mechanisms. Do you think I could buy replacement parts for it? Not sure the springs are any good. Just ignore the boom pole and post hole digger laying on it in the photos.

 

[Gittyup]

Here's some more photos.

 

[thatguy]

WOW.. time and weather certainly havent been kind to it.. But a little rust bonding paint will take care of that and a final coat of paint or two and it will look almost good as new..

The biggest thing I see (or actually cant see) is what to do with the scarifiers? Can you ditch the winch and lock the them in place? But then you have to have a way to raise/lower them and they dont appear to have the typical pin connector for adjustment.

It appears to me that the rear blade is there or am i missing something?

Brian

 

[Gittyup]

Yep, she's weathered alright. But, what should I expect for $150. End walls look to be 3/8". I haven't bought it yet. But, think I will.

Is it winched operated? I can't really tell. But, when I looked closely at what I thought was coiled up wire cable are actually torsion springs. It looks like the way it worked was that a short piece of heavy wire (shown broken) raised and lowered the scarifier bar and got it's power by being wrapped around a cam wheel. This was controlled by another lighter weight cable shown on the mangled bracket. Not sure what the lighter weight cable attaches to. Maybe it was a hand winch? I can't tell how it locks in the down position either. Could the springs actually be strong enough to hold it down while digging?

You are right about the scarifiers. I suspect maybe they use clips to hold them like some other brands do. He has one extra scarifier. I can weld the scarifiers in place if the clips break, assuming I can get the retraction bar to work.

I sure hope someone can tell me how this thing originally worked. I've searched the web and can't find any info except on new Gills that operate differently. I'd actually like to buy original replacment parts, if I could get them.

 

[john_bud]

For $150 - you should ALREADY have it in the back of your truck.

By the way - my photos will show you how to replace the missing parts. The scarifiers are there. You are just missing the lever and linkages. No big deal.

You can probably get the whole sheebang sand blasted for $50 if you take it to a place that does blasting and let them use it as fill work. You will get a better job if you take it all apart too. But that may cost more. Still cheaper than buying your own blaster then larger air compressor and hood, gloves, coverall, respirator, etc.

jb

 

[Gittyup]

Thanks JB. I sent you a PM so you can send me some photos. I probably would have it in my truck. But, I have a cap on it and we didn't think we could get it in there as heavy as the thing is? I have to take my trailer back to get it. He's only 5 minutes down the road. Besides he didn't have his tractor there today. He's going to call me when he get's his tractor there and I'll go get it.

Sure would like to find someone to sandblast. Around here you can't get much done without paying through the nose for it, unless you know them. Unfortunately I don't know anyone with that equipment. Not sure just yet how I plan to get it cleaned up.

 

[Lasgambler]

I think I would buy it even though I have one. Mine has the fixed tail. Personally I like using the fixed tail better than the hinged. With the fixed, you can use your TOP cylinder to raise the front cutting edge off the groung a half inch or so and let the weight of the BS do the work. It will then cut and fill as you go with it in the float position. When you find areas that need more cut out just retract the TOP cylinder until the front cutting edge contacts and cuts what you like, Feather out and it will spread the spoils very nicely. Its probably easier for me to show you than try to explain.
Terry

 

[MJPetersen]

Gill was bought out by Woods Equipment and they still use the Gill name on some Heavy Duty Box Blades. They bought Gannon, Gill, and others, but it seems only the better names. They currently make a box that looks similar but it does not use cables or springs to operate the drop down scarifiers. If you could not figure out how to make the old system work, maybe you could convert it to the more modern system. The Gill blades are very heavy duty and will serve you well for many years to come. You probably can get a new cutting edge from Woods. I will post a parts drawing of the modern Woods. A users manual for the Gill, and a Gannon box with retractable scarifiers.

Mike

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I would pay $150 just to see if I could figure out how to make it work. You better get it before someone else finds it. Ask around to find out if anyone in the area blasts equipment or trucks .
Bill

 

[Gittyup]

Thanks for info, Mike. Your blade is designed different from those in the diagram and manual. Your's is a little closer to what I have and might be easier to replicate. Some Questions about yours:

How is the bar locked in th down position?
What is in the cylinders (or what are they) attached to those tension springs.

 

[Ductape]

For a buck and a half, i'd already own it. Rusty, yes........ but it looks pretty straight and most of it looks to be there. As the others said.... find a shop that does sandblasting and have them clean it up at their liesure and put some primer on it. You can squirt it whatever color you like. That is a much higher quality box than anyone around here keeps in stock.

 

[MJPetersen]

I actually do not own this BB, I just happen to have pictures of it. I collect various pictures of implements that I might like to copy in the future. That is why I have a King Kutter Kopy Scoop, and an imitation Gannon roll over Box. I posted them so that you might get some ideas for modifying it so that it will work even if the original method is unrepairable. There seem to be plenty of designs that could be imitated.

How is the bar locked in the down position?

I believe that it is locked down simply by passing a bit over center. I have not seen one of these in real life therefore, I cannot say for sure.

What is in the cylinders (or what are they) attached to those tension springs.

I believe they are simply extensions sticking out as necessary to catch the bracket, there seems to be a way that you can adjust the tension on the spring--the spring bracket appears to be attached to a long bolt that could be loosened and then locked down to put the spring arm in a different position. but I cannot be positive. Sorry.

Mike