woodmaxx flail mower?

[airbiscuit]

Send pics of it attached to the tractor and mowing!

 

[Ricn]

Yes I will, soon as I can get the wife out there doing the photos.

Ricn

 

[Z-Michigan]

Also ran into an issue with the side to side cylinder as when moving the mower, the gear housing safety metal enclosure hit both hose fittings where they are screwed into the cylinder so movement is about 2 inches either way for now. Tomorrow, I plan to remove this cover cutting down the corners enough to clear ok, a minor thing really but one would think Woodmaxx would have fixed this on other mowers knowing of the issue.Ricn

I think you are referring to the stamped metal shield around the PTO shaft coupling and clutch at the gearbox end. That caused me some problems too and I think the design could be improved, which I will detail in my (eventual) review. In the short term, it would be a huge plus if it were attached with quick-release fasteners instead of nylon locknuts, which are very slow and tedious to remove and reinstall.

The flail mower seems well built overall, similar to the Caroni I previously owned in construction quality, which is (IMHO) a step above the typical inexpensive consumer implements in the US and similar to a brand like Woods.

Mine came with chain shields in the front, instead of the metal plate shields I see on the Woodmaxx website and had on the Caroni. Chain shields seem as good or possibly better, but it was unexpected.

 

[Ricn]

Mine has the chains as well. Also, the housing looks tough being .250 inch thick steel, Bearings are high quality being an improvement from earlier models, also comes with Gates belts making easy replacement. I like all the grease fittings and if kept up this unit should give many years of use. Have been told the gear box breather can weep some so plan to replace the fitting and install some plastic hose of suitable length to alleviate the issue if and when it happens.

 

[Ricn]

Got the clutch cover fixed ok; took off those hard to get too nuts and bolts then cut the bottom of the cover up about 1/2 inch for hose fitting clearance. Also loosened the cylinder rotating just a tad followed by retightening everything. There is a small grease fitting on the yoke that needs greasing at 25 hours but looks to be tough to get too with cover in place so will change that to 90 degree fitting. Also lowered the roller and side plates to the lowest setting preferring that to the middle holes. Also got the top link cylinder adjusted out some, reflecting what the mower directions say about the mower front being slightly higher than the rear. Made some passes thru the field and all looks good so far.

 

[3fordasho]

Purchased a FM78 about 12-13 months ago and probably have around 15-20 hours on it and up to now the only issue was the gearbox has oil coming out the vent. Using it today and about 1 hour in the tractor (bobcat CT440) stopped dead in its tracks. Main rotor in the mower locked up solid. Had it out in about 30mn to discover the non-drive end bearing seized. Lube chart shows every 25hrs and I've hit those bearings a couple times already. Just a fluke I guess. Need a bigger puller as that bearing is now really stuck on the shaft. Now we'll see if the warranty is any good.

 

[Ricn]

Wow, let's hope so. Bearings were well greased in mine as was the gearbox oil being full. I have maybe 10 hrs so far and not a drop has come out of the vent. I greased it once but will do it again soon. Let's hope yours is a fluke!

Ricn

 

[leonz]

Purchased a FM78 about 12-13 months ago and probably have around 15-20 hours on it and up to now the only issue was the gearbox has oil coming out the vent. Using it today and about 1 hour in the tractor (bobcat CT440) stopped dead in its tracks. Main rotor in the mower locked up solid. Had it out in about 30mn to discover the non-drive end bearing seized. Lube chart shows every 25hrs and I've hit those bearings a couple times already. Just a fluke I guess. Need a bigger puller as that bearing is now really stuck on the shaft. Now we'll see if the warranty is any good.

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Hello 3fordasho,

their 25 hour greasing interval or lack there of is much much too long and really struck me as wrong simply due to the flail mower rotors speed of rotation and I tell everyone and I mean everyone to plan on greasing every 6-8 hours of operation using 6-7 pumps until you see the old grease coming out. deciding whether you want to grease at the end of the day or before mowing is simply a case of what kind of time you have.

I hope they send you a new mower and have the old one shipped back at no charge to you.



If your running at 2,200 RPM you probably have as much mileage on those bearings as a trip from NYC to Portland, Maine
if not further.


I would wait on doing any surgery as you have a major failure on your hands as they may question why you are doing the work.

 

[IslandTractor]

I don't recall what greasing interval was recommended for my Caroni flail but I give the two rotor bearings three pumps before each mowing day. Rear roller and zerk under the belt cover get less frequent attention but more often than every 25 hrs.

 

[3fordasho]

Woodmaxx is sending out new bearings and seals. I asked about greasing interval - they are recommending more like 50 hrs now for these bearings ?? Made is sound like too much greasing is just as bad as not enough.

 

[IslandTractor]

Woodmaxx is sending out new bearings and seals. I asked about greasing interval - they are recommending more like 50 hrs now for these bearings ?? Made is sound like too much greasing is just as bad as not enough.

Overfilling with grease is bad but greasing every fifty hours seems odd. A few squirts of grease is not going to blow out seals and any excess will have plenty of opportunity to ooze out while mowing. A few pumps before starting a day's mowing has worked for me for ten seasons.

 

[3fordasho]

Overfilling with grease is bad but greasing every fifty hours seems odd. A few squirts of grease is not going to blow out seals and any excess will have plenty of opportunity to ooze out while mowing. A few pumps before starting a day's mowing has worked for me for ten seasons.

50 hrs for me would be 5 years or so. I gave those bearings 3-4 pumps at the beginning of the season and then a pump or two every other use. As I'm pulling things apart there is grease where there should be and I've never had excess slinging about either.

 

[Z-Michigan]

Reading this with great attention in the hopes I won't have a similar experience.

It seems like I'm frequently hearing cautions about over-greasing bearings anywhere on a tractor - FEL points among others - but I don't read of many people actually having damage as a result.

Do you know which type (chemistry) of grease you used - lithium, lithium complex (the two most common types), polyurea (Deere green grease and a few others), etc.? Some grease types are incompatible and mixing them could cause failure of the grease resulting in excess wear until all the old grease is purged and replaced with the new.

I assume Woodmaxx is using lithium complex at the factory, but I don't know that and now I think I want to ask.

 

[leonz]

50 hrs for me would be 5 years or so. I gave those bearings 3-4 pumps at the beginning of the season and then a pump or two every other use. As I'm pulling things apart there is grease where there should be and I've never had excess slinging about either.

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Does this bearing have locking collars with set screws on the inboard side and outboard side of the stub shaft to secure the inner race.

If the inner race on the specific the flail mower rotors stub shaft was not secured properly that is a definite no no.
If there is severe metal damage you may end up doing a lot of metal work to free the bearing from the shaft stub.
The bearing, if it is the proper bearing has an inboard seal and the grease purges to the out side.

I would be very worried about whether the bearing is a slip fit or press fit bearing as the press fit bearing is the preferred mounting method.


If the bearing is a press fit you will end up heating it in the oven to get it on the shaft stub


Can you upload a schematic diagram of the flail rotor hub and bearings as something really sounds wrong with this simply because the flail mower rotor bearings should last for many many years. In our case the first pair of bearings lasted 25 years for our finish flail mower with regular greasing as we used it a lot every week.

 

[3fordasho]

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Does this bearing have locking collars with set screws on the inboard side and outboard side of the stub shaft to secure the inner race.

If the inner race on the specific the flail mower rotors stub shaft was not secured properly that is a definite no no.
If there is severe metal damage you may end up doing a lot of metal work to free the bearing from the shaft stub.
The bearing, if it is the proper bearing has an inboard seal and the grease purges to the out side.

I would be very worried about whether the bearing is a slip fit or press fit bearing as the press fit bearing is the preferred mounting method.


If the bearing is a press fit you will end up heating it in the oven to get it on the shaft stub


Can you upload a schematic diagram of the flail rotor hub and bearings as something really sounds wrong with this simply because the flail mower rotor bearings should last for many many years. In our case the first pair of bearings lasted 25 years for our finish flail mower with regular greasing as we used it a lot every week.

I don't have a schematic diagram handy but this youtube video shows how things are put together (and taken apart) WoodMaxx FLAIL MOWER - How to change the main bearing - YouTube

And yes the seized bearing is on TIGHT. My cheap 3 jaw puller and a bit of heat is not moving the inner race vs stub shaft. The outer race is secured with a snap ring to the bearing housing and that is moving but should not be. I can see having to cut the bearing and maybe even the housing off the shaft but am not to that point yet.

 

[3fordasho]

Reading this with great attention in the hopes I won't have a similar experience.

It seems like I'm frequently hearing cautions about over-greasing bearings anywhere on a tractor - FEL points among others - but I don't read of many people actually having damage as a result.

Do you know which type (chemistry) of grease you used - lithium, lithium complex (the two most common types), polyurea (Deere green grease and a few others), etc.? Some grease types are incompatible and mixing them could cause failure of the grease resulting in excess wear until all the old grease is purged and replaced with the new.

I assume Woodmaxx is using lithium complex at the factory, but I don't know that and now I think I want to ask.

There is no way the damage I have is from over greasing - defective bearing from the start or improper assembly are my guesses for now until I have things further apart. Lack of lube is not the cause either. This unit does not sit outside - ever. So should not be a corrosion issue.

 

[3fordasho]

Hopefully the pictures work- Bearing housing with the bearing next to it is the drive side which was not seized yet, but didn't feel the greatest. Non-drive side is the other, should be able to see the nice groove in the race where the bearing failed. One thing you can't read on the bearing because of lighting is "CHINA"

Anyway, I've got two busted outer races to get out of the bearing housings, and one stuck inner race to get off the main rotor stub shaft - what fun ahead!

 

[TurtleCreekFarm]

I had a bearing seize on my Wooodmax flail mower after about 10 hrs of use. Never could get the bearing off the shaft. They ended up paying for me to ship the whole unit back to them. They replaced the bad bearing and shipped it back. Now I shoot 3 shots of grease in each fitting before each use. It has been running fine (besides gear lube coming out of the gearbox breather) for over a year now.

 

[leonz]

View attachment 517137View attachment 517136

Hopefully the pictures work- Bearing housing with the bearing next to it is the drive side which was not seized yet, but didn't feel the greatest. Non-drive side is the other, should be able to see the nice groove in the race where the bearing failed. One thing you can't read on the bearing because of lighting is "CHINA"

Anyway, I've got two busted outer races to get out of the bearing housings, and one stuck inner race to get off the main rotor stub shaft - what fun ahead!

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I am definitely sorry to see the trouble that those bearings have caused you. I would not install anything but a known bearing brand FAG, SKF, Sealmaster etc. to replace the pair and send the other bearing back to them with a no thanks I do not want them anywhere near my flail mower. Please purchase some dry ice to get the inner races out of the housings by shrinking them to save yourself a lot of work.

 

[aczlan]

Please purchase some dry ice to get the inner races out of the housings by shrinking them to save yourself a lot of work.

Or, if he has a welder, weld a bead around the inside of the outer race.

Aaron Z