Bird
Rest in Peace
What?? I thought sure MChalkley's 4310 Enhancements would hold the record./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif And of course a lot of what I learned about the hydraulics came from Mark.
Bird
Bird
Who makes a decent chainsaw?
- Thread starter GrantMO
- Start date
- Views: 21001
I knew it was that one... but I forgot I moved it to the customization forum. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif 204 there...
Gomez
Gold Member
Muhammad,
Actually I was referring to Dan's individual post, not the number of replies.
Actually I was referring to Dan's individual post, not the number of replies.
In that case, I'm not sure... there have been a few long ones in the past as well. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
dmccarty
Super Star Member
Long Winded Post Part II,
I know I'm going to forget to add some things but here it goes...
If you are cutting down trees, search through TBN for Chainsawing Safety websites. There have been a few that have been mentioned and they are excellent sites. Tells you about how important the hinge is when cutting down a tree. Very important. Don't cut through the hinge..... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
If you are cutting down trees try to start with small trees and work up to the larger, more dangerous dead trees. Dead trees are very dangerous. If they still have limbs you have to be carefull that they don't fall off when sawing and get you. Its kinda hard trying to watch two things at once, the dead limbs and the chainsaw cutting..... I know of a man who clears land for a living that had a dead limb fall on him. Broke his back and kept him in the hospital for quite some time. He was lucky since he was not killed or crippled. One of my coworkers has a friend who is in a wheel chair from cutting down trees......
My rule for cutting down trees is to have a minimum of 180 degrees cleared around the tree. Hopefully 360. If it is a dead tree and I really don't like the looks of it I'll make sure I can run in any direction I need. There will be 360 degrees of cleared ground. Before cutting, think about where you are going to walk when the tree starts falling. Make sure you have at least two ways to safely walk away from the tree. I also look for directions that I can safely toss the chainsaw if I have to. I'll walk real fast with a chainsaw if I have to but I won't run. I walk away from the falling tree. Much safer that way. BUT, if things go wrong and I have to RUN, then the saw is going one way and I'm going another......
BUT sometimes things go bad real quick and you won't have time to toss, walk much less run. I have a few close calls with large trees that had been turned into spring poles. If I had not thought about what was going to happen I would have been smacked in the chest by a 12-18 inch tree. It missed me by a foot or so. Much to close......
I have had trees fall 90 degrees in a direction I did not intend. Felling trees is not fun. Thankfully, most of my sawing is on trees already on the ground. I do have some large dead snags that will have to be taken down and they scare me. One has been split by lightning. I'm seriously considering burning this tree down..... Its in an area that will be pasture and if I burn it down it will be able to fall without hurting anything. C4 would be my best bet to safely take this tree down.....
Be aware there are different kinds of chainsaw chains. The two mainly used chains from Stihl are a yellow go fast chain and a green safety chain. The chain boxes have a yellow or green panel. The chains also have a dot of yellow or green paint. The green safety chains are reduced kickback chains. They have funny wavey links. The Stihl catalog recommends the green chain for everyone EXCEPT for those with extraordinary cutting needs. Whatever that means.... I have been using the yellow chains all along.
I have two trains of thought on the two types of chains. Whenever you are running the saw there is danger Will Robinson. But the longer you are running the saw the longer the danger persists. SO, its a question of how much chainsaw time will it take to saw a given amount of wood with the safety saw vs just getting it down with the yellow chain? I don't know how to answer that question and since I have been using the yellow chain, I did not know any better, I'll keep using it. I want to get in, get the job done, and get out.
I think if I was just cutting up firewood I would use the green chain. But I have to much work to do.... Heck of a choice.....
A big part of working the chainsaw, besides THINKING is proper balance and posture. No you don't have to be able to stand on one leg and balance a plate on your head but it might help! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif But I try to keep my back as straight as possible and maintain good balance. A straight back will minimize the use of your back muscles and its safer. You don't have balance if you are bent over the saw. And if you are bent over the saw you are that much close to the chain which reduces your reaction time if something goes wrong. If you are out of balance your reaction time is reduced as well.... Its usually when I'm cutting a log on the ground that this comes into play. The easiest soluction is to just kneel of the ground. You are much more comfortable and safer.
Another very important safety consideration is rest, water, and food. If you body is not at 100% dont use the chainsaw. You have to be able to THINK with the chainsaw. Failure to THINK a step or two ahead is asking for big problems. If I fell tired, I don't use the chainsaw. My usual time to do one chainsaw is about 60-90 minutes. My saw will run about 45 minutes when doing my usual work. I'll spend another 10 minutes or so, cleaning the air filter, filling up the oil/gas, sharpening the chain, checking its tension and then maintaining ME. If I'm tired and overheated I'll sit down until I"m not. I usually eat a Cliff or Luna bar between chainsaw sessions. Sometimes two. I'll drink plenty of water. Operator condition is the most important thing. I run the chainsaw first thing in the morning. I don't run it during the hotest part of the day nor at the end of the day when I'm tired. The worst pins I have ever had have been at the end of the day when my reaction times were reduced. I had to take the engine off the bar/chain one evening when a dead snag pinched the saw. NOT FUN! The pinch happened because I was tired, not thinking like I should and my reaction time was reduced. Don't run the saw when you are tired.....
I'm sure there are some other tidbits I could throw out but I can't think of them at the moment....
Hope this helps....
Dan McCarty
I know I'm going to forget to add some things but here it goes...
If you are cutting down trees, search through TBN for Chainsawing Safety websites. There have been a few that have been mentioned and they are excellent sites. Tells you about how important the hinge is when cutting down a tree. Very important. Don't cut through the hinge..... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
If you are cutting down trees try to start with small trees and work up to the larger, more dangerous dead trees. Dead trees are very dangerous. If they still have limbs you have to be carefull that they don't fall off when sawing and get you. Its kinda hard trying to watch two things at once, the dead limbs and the chainsaw cutting..... I know of a man who clears land for a living that had a dead limb fall on him. Broke his back and kept him in the hospital for quite some time. He was lucky since he was not killed or crippled. One of my coworkers has a friend who is in a wheel chair from cutting down trees......
My rule for cutting down trees is to have a minimum of 180 degrees cleared around the tree. Hopefully 360. If it is a dead tree and I really don't like the looks of it I'll make sure I can run in any direction I need. There will be 360 degrees of cleared ground. Before cutting, think about where you are going to walk when the tree starts falling. Make sure you have at least two ways to safely walk away from the tree. I also look for directions that I can safely toss the chainsaw if I have to. I'll walk real fast with a chainsaw if I have to but I won't run. I walk away from the falling tree. Much safer that way. BUT, if things go wrong and I have to RUN, then the saw is going one way and I'm going another......
BUT sometimes things go bad real quick and you won't have time to toss, walk much less run. I have a few close calls with large trees that had been turned into spring poles. If I had not thought about what was going to happen I would have been smacked in the chest by a 12-18 inch tree. It missed me by a foot or so. Much to close......
I have had trees fall 90 degrees in a direction I did not intend. Felling trees is not fun. Thankfully, most of my sawing is on trees already on the ground. I do have some large dead snags that will have to be taken down and they scare me. One has been split by lightning. I'm seriously considering burning this tree down..... Its in an area that will be pasture and if I burn it down it will be able to fall without hurting anything. C4 would be my best bet to safely take this tree down.....
Be aware there are different kinds of chainsaw chains. The two mainly used chains from Stihl are a yellow go fast chain and a green safety chain. The chain boxes have a yellow or green panel. The chains also have a dot of yellow or green paint. The green safety chains are reduced kickback chains. They have funny wavey links. The Stihl catalog recommends the green chain for everyone EXCEPT for those with extraordinary cutting needs. Whatever that means.... I have been using the yellow chains all along.
I have two trains of thought on the two types of chains. Whenever you are running the saw there is danger Will Robinson. But the longer you are running the saw the longer the danger persists. SO, its a question of how much chainsaw time will it take to saw a given amount of wood with the safety saw vs just getting it down with the yellow chain? I don't know how to answer that question and since I have been using the yellow chain, I did not know any better, I'll keep using it. I want to get in, get the job done, and get out.
I think if I was just cutting up firewood I would use the green chain. But I have to much work to do.... Heck of a choice.....
A big part of working the chainsaw, besides THINKING is proper balance and posture. No you don't have to be able to stand on one leg and balance a plate on your head but it might help! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif But I try to keep my back as straight as possible and maintain good balance. A straight back will minimize the use of your back muscles and its safer. You don't have balance if you are bent over the saw. And if you are bent over the saw you are that much close to the chain which reduces your reaction time if something goes wrong. If you are out of balance your reaction time is reduced as well.... Its usually when I'm cutting a log on the ground that this comes into play. The easiest soluction is to just kneel of the ground. You are much more comfortable and safer.
Another very important safety consideration is rest, water, and food. If you body is not at 100% dont use the chainsaw. You have to be able to THINK with the chainsaw. Failure to THINK a step or two ahead is asking for big problems. If I fell tired, I don't use the chainsaw. My usual time to do one chainsaw is about 60-90 minutes. My saw will run about 45 minutes when doing my usual work. I'll spend another 10 minutes or so, cleaning the air filter, filling up the oil/gas, sharpening the chain, checking its tension and then maintaining ME. If I'm tired and overheated I'll sit down until I"m not. I usually eat a Cliff or Luna bar between chainsaw sessions. Sometimes two. I'll drink plenty of water. Operator condition is the most important thing. I run the chainsaw first thing in the morning. I don't run it during the hotest part of the day nor at the end of the day when I'm tired. The worst pins I have ever had have been at the end of the day when my reaction times were reduced. I had to take the engine off the bar/chain one evening when a dead snag pinched the saw. NOT FUN! The pinch happened because I was tired, not thinking like I should and my reaction time was reduced. Don't run the saw when you are tired.....
I'm sure there are some other tidbits I could throw out but I can't think of them at the moment....
Hope this helps....
Dan McCarty
alan40
Platinum Member
Well since my last post I have found a pretty easy chain sharpening tool. It's from Husky and it's really easy to use. It's square with 2 rollers and slot's in the sides. Not the best descrpition but hopefully you get my drift. I'm now ready to cut about anything but as usual safety comes first. There have been alot of good posts on this subject and I've learned quite alot. My worst tree to cut down is those dreaded thorn trees of any variety. No matter what I always get stuck once or twice when cutting them and they dull a chain quicker then anything. The only good thing now is that I don't have many more to go.
Thanks and have a great day!!!!/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Al
Thanks and have a great day!!!!/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Al
ljh2
Gold Member
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The pull and overheating can sometimes happen if the chain was only sharpened on one side. Will pull like the devil and the dull side will overheat.
-larry
-larry
ljh2
Gold Member
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Be sure to adjust the "raker" height too. As you sharpen the cutting surface, the tooth becomes shorter. If you don't keep the raker slightly lower than the cutter, you will just create fine dust.
-larry
-larry
JohnMiller3
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Anonymous Poster
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Alan--
I, too, just bought a Husky 55 this summer and was originally concerned with what appeared to be a lack of oiling.
It doesn't seem to oil nearly as heavily as my old Poulan, but it must be doing about right, as one tank of oil is just about used up with each tank of gas.
It is a very nice saw, overkill for what I will use it for. I had to buy it to clean up after a storm which destroyed one of my pecan trees (102" circumference at the base--about 32" in diameter). Felling and cutting up that tree will undoubtedly be the heaviest duty this saw will get, at least until someone picks it up at my estate sale.
That's a pretty big tree to fell with an 18" (or is it 20"?) bar, but it did fine. Once the trunk was horizontal on the ground, cutting it into 18" long chunks was a piece of cake; this saw did it easily. I put so much sawdust on the ground that it killed my grass in that area.
Splitting it was less fun.
I, too, just bought a Husky 55 this summer and was originally concerned with what appeared to be a lack of oiling.
It doesn't seem to oil nearly as heavily as my old Poulan, but it must be doing about right, as one tank of oil is just about used up with each tank of gas.
It is a very nice saw, overkill for what I will use it for. I had to buy it to clean up after a storm which destroyed one of my pecan trees (102" circumference at the base--about 32" in diameter). Felling and cutting up that tree will undoubtedly be the heaviest duty this saw will get, at least until someone picks it up at my estate sale.
That's a pretty big tree to fell with an 18" (or is it 20"?) bar, but it did fine. Once the trunk was horizontal on the ground, cutting it into 18" long chunks was a piece of cake; this saw did it easily. I put so much sawdust on the ground that it killed my grass in that area.
Splitting it was less fun.
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
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While I'm at it, I may as well throw out my two cents on Poulan as well.
My old Poulan has been in infrequent use in my sand box since around 1980. It has been utterly reliable. Apparently the newer Poulans are not so good. Mine slobbers oil wherever you set it down (althought loosening the oil fill cap helps a lot--the oil tank is pressurized to push oil out to the bar, so loosening the cap relieves this pressure), it always starts on the first pull if warm, or on about the 8th pull if it's been sitting (sometimes a year or more, without ever draining the fuel), is light and convenient for pruning. However, if the limbs get much over 12 inches or so, it doesn't really have enough power for this sort of work.
All I've ever done to it, maintenance wise, is buy chains, air filters, and spark plugs. It needs a new bar and drive sprocket but that will have to wait a while. Since I've got the Husky now, the Poulan will only see the smaller jobs.
My old Poulan has been in infrequent use in my sand box since around 1980. It has been utterly reliable. Apparently the newer Poulans are not so good. Mine slobbers oil wherever you set it down (althought loosening the oil fill cap helps a lot--the oil tank is pressurized to push oil out to the bar, so loosening the cap relieves this pressure), it always starts on the first pull if warm, or on about the 8th pull if it's been sitting (sometimes a year or more, without ever draining the fuel), is light and convenient for pruning. However, if the limbs get much over 12 inches or so, it doesn't really have enough power for this sort of work.
All I've ever done to it, maintenance wise, is buy chains, air filters, and spark plugs. It needs a new bar and drive sprocket but that will have to wait a while. Since I've got the Husky now, the Poulan will only see the smaller jobs.
beenthere
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Don't own one, but have been operating one quite a bit in the last few months. The John Deere is very comfortable to run, but I do not have enough run time to evaluate it over the long haul. I have owned a Stihl since 1975 (041 with original 20" windsor bar) and have gone through 24 chains. It has been one fantastic saw.
scruffy
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Wal
Silver Member
<font color=blue>Apparently the newer Poulans are not so good. Mine slobbers oil wherever you set it down (althought loosening the oil fill cap helps a lot--the oil tank is pressurized to push oil out to the bar, so loosening the cap relieves this pressure), </font color=blue>
Ah ha!!!! I HAVE a Poulan (Craftsman version) So THATS why my oil fill cap is impossible to remove after sawing for awhile. Its under pressure! I know I don't put it ON that tight, but I have to get plyers to loosen it. You know what, it just occured to me that my last chain did not last long at all because I purposely /w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif put the oil fill cap on very loosely so I could remove it next time without resorting to plyers. Well, my method worked, but I also noticed that I still had quite a bit more oil left in the tank than I normally do after the amount of sawing I had just done. Plus, my chain seemed a bit on the dry side /w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif Kinda dull, too. I presume what I had done was not allow the required pressure build-up in the tank because of the lightly closed oil tank cap!! I had no idea it worked as a pressurized system. Live and learn. That caps going on tight now no matter what!
Wal
Ah ha!!!! I HAVE a Poulan (Craftsman version) So THATS why my oil fill cap is impossible to remove after sawing for awhile. Its under pressure! I know I don't put it ON that tight, but I have to get plyers to loosen it. You know what, it just occured to me that my last chain did not last long at all because I purposely /w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif put the oil fill cap on very loosely so I could remove it next time without resorting to plyers. Well, my method worked, but I also noticed that I still had quite a bit more oil left in the tank than I normally do after the amount of sawing I had just done. Plus, my chain seemed a bit on the dry side /w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif Kinda dull, too. I presume what I had done was not allow the required pressure build-up in the tank because of the lightly closed oil tank cap!! I had no idea it worked as a pressurized system. Live and learn. That caps going on tight now no matter what!
Wal
Bird
Rest in Peace
Of course, I don't use my chainsaw just a whole lot, but I've never had a problem with a Poulan. I used one for 11 years for my firewood and gave it away when we took to full time RVing. So I had to buy a new one about 4 years ago and still no problems at all. I put the oil cap on what I would call "snug" with my thumb and index finger.
Bird
Bird
Wal
Silver Member
Bird,
When you put your oil cap on "snug", can you then remove it later by hand? Does it seem to be a tighter than when you put it on?
Wal
When you put your oil cap on "snug", can you then remove it later by hand? Does it seem to be a tighter than when you put it on?
Wal
Bird
Rest in Peace
Yes, it does at least "seem" to be tighter when I try to take it off, but I still do it by hand.
Bird
Bird
Youare
Platinum Member
Over the past 28 years I have heated our home with wood stoves and done some backyard logging with the portable sawmill I own. Durning that time I have owned 9 chain saws and 1 Wright reciprocating blade saw. There haven't been too many brands that I have not used. The major difference is in the bore of the engine. The department store brand saws will most likely have a chrome plated bore which the piston rings run against. Once the chrome wears off the saw is done. The other type engine found on the more expensive saws, the cylinder wall on these are made of a different material that is more durable.
I have had 2 Stihl saws which run and run. Two Sachs Dolmar's which are good saws, a little heavy. Two Husky's, which are also great saws. It is like buying a tractor, find a dealer you feel comfortable with. There are a couple things you can do to make a saw last for many years. First is use an oil made for chainsaws to mix with gasoline, the manufacturer's oil is the best bet. Never use a gas / oil mixture that has been around for more than 30 days. The lubricating properties break down after 1 month. Use at least 89 octane fuel, 93 is better. Keep the saw clean, especially around the cooling fins on the piston jug. Clean or replace the air filter regularly.
I wouldn't buy a saw today that does not have a chain break on it and an anit-virbration system. Depending on how much you plan on using a chain saw in a year and the diameter wood you need to cut will determine the size saw you will need. Most saws in the 2.7 - 3.1 CU.IN. size with a 16" bar will handle everything you need to cut. I have cut down 40" diameter trees with a 16" bar.
Randy
I have had 2 Stihl saws which run and run. Two Sachs Dolmar's which are good saws, a little heavy. Two Husky's, which are also great saws. It is like buying a tractor, find a dealer you feel comfortable with. There are a couple things you can do to make a saw last for many years. First is use an oil made for chainsaws to mix with gasoline, the manufacturer's oil is the best bet. Never use a gas / oil mixture that has been around for more than 30 days. The lubricating properties break down after 1 month. Use at least 89 octane fuel, 93 is better. Keep the saw clean, especially around the cooling fins on the piston jug. Clean or replace the air filter regularly.
I wouldn't buy a saw today that does not have a chain break on it and an anit-virbration system. Depending on how much you plan on using a chain saw in a year and the diameter wood you need to cut will determine the size saw you will need. Most saws in the 2.7 - 3.1 CU.IN. size with a 16" bar will handle everything you need to cut. I have cut down 40" diameter trees with a 16" bar.
Randy
Youare
Platinum Member
BTW I've had a McClough Mini Mac 10, McClough 10-10, some old Homlite, a Stihl 027 Super and a Stihl 015, Sachs Dolmar 119 and a 123, Husky 257 and a Husky 272XP. Still have the O27 Super, the Sachs 123, and both Husky's.
Randy
Randy
dmccarty
Super Star Member
Youare,
What kind of portable saw mill do you have? How "old" can logs be before they are to old to saw up into usable wood?
Thanks....
Dan McCarty
What kind of portable saw mill do you have? How "old" can logs be before they are to old to saw up into usable wood?
Thanks....
Dan McCarty
