What's your technique for removing trees/brush with your grapple? Here's mine....

[Xfaxman]

This is my technique with the V417 and Gorilla Grapple.

With the boom retracted put the lower center tine on the tree, up about 6' on this dead one.


Slowly extend the boom.


This one will be easy, the dead roots are breaking.


Extend the boom further, notice the extend markings on the boom.


Don't have to worry about the root ball on this dead one!


Extend some more, it is almost all the way out.


That is a sand rock up on the trunk


Boom is fully extended, the V417 never moved.


Retracted the boom, stabbed the root ball with the lower center tine, picked it up and dropped it a few times to get rid of the rocks and dirt.


The V417 still hasn't moved from where it started pushing!


Found the balance point, notice the grapple top tines are open.


Took it to the burn pile.


It goes a lot faster when I don't stop to take pictures!

 

[rmorey]

Your right you can learn a lot from other peoples experiences. I wish more people would comment. Sometimes is discouraging when you start a thread.



It does not take much of a tree to put a fight.



Thanks. Where ever I cut the tree down I cut it into firewood length, split it and palatalize there. It also helps it dry since it is not on the ground. I have some strips of a old conveyor belt that I cover a few pallets with. I think I have about 40-50 pallets of firewood now. 1 pallet is approximately 1/4 of a cord. The little BX will lift one on the 3PH. I pull up to the house and carry it in the basement. I am afraid to put the whole pallet in, I don't want any critters in the house:laughing:






I had the scraper blade on the back for a ballast so I used it. I'll try using the grapple to grade. That area you did turned out nice.

Roger, have you seen the mesh bags for firewood? Kiotiken told me about them. They are like an onion bag square and sit on a pallet and tie at the top. According to Ken, they hold most of a facecord. Then he stacks them two on the bottom and one on top. Cheap, about $2 each. I called the guy that sells them and ordered 25 to try. I'm gonna try them in the fall.

 

[JoeL4330]

I noted the early reference to "widow makers"...limbs on your side of the tree ready to break off, or a tall tree that will snap in two high up ...while a forestry cage would be nice, a hard hat is a cheap investment ...and worthwhile (just ask me).

As for the poster who jonesed for 4wd, I've found it is largely irrelevant in this situation...as poster mentioned there is a tendency for the front to lift, anyway ...and down pressure on the bucket/grapple from a high position helps topple the tree forward ...a weightier tractor is the biggest help, here, IMHO.

 

[bandaidmd]

(Note: If you press the "ctrl" key and click the picture at the same time, it will open the image in a new tab, so you don't have to keep pressing the "back" button)

or install "hover zoom" so when you put the pointer over a pic it auto enlarges. Works on forums and facebook.

 

[bandaidmd]

Speaking of giving people ideas, you can borrow my wheel-less barrow to move the rest of the wood!
View attachment 322690 View attachment 322691 View attachment 322692

Wow you must have emptied the scrap bin when building that , I'm not being critical so don't take that the wrong way just looking at all the sizes and styles of steel in your build. Its like Johnny Cash's Cadillac, it all works in the end so good job.

 

[Xfaxman]

Wow you must have emptied the scrap bin when building that , I'm not being critical so don't take that the wrong way just looking at all the sizes and styles of steel in your build. Its like Johnny Cash's Cadillac, it all works in the end so good job.

By that, do you mean the loader or the fork frame?

The forks where bought new in 1985, as part of a Wheelhorse garden tractor package deal.
They bolted to an A frame for the 3 point hitch. I welded the angle iron on the back.


I built the frame to fit the loader on a Craftsman GT that I had back then.


I added the outside piece of angle iron some time after putting this loader on the TORO.


Notice the chain slots at the ends of the bottom channel iron.


You are right about using the scrap bin, but I didn't empty it, didn't even come close too the bottom. :laughing:

I build things using the TLAR School of Engineering method. (That Looks About Right)
It has worked on three different loaders for 28 years, so TLAR works! :thumbsup:

Build thread for the loader: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/272163-fel-toro-groundsmaster-put-together.html

 

[jeffinsgf]

Just found this thread, and have been enjoying it. I tried to imagine using this method with my tractor. I use my tractor in the woods a lot, and have approached a lot of jobs with little trepidation, but I just couldn't get my mind around just knocking over a relatively large tree with my tractor....then I looked up the specs and you have 1500 more pounds of tractor than I do. I've got a couple of smallish leaners that I'm hesitant to chainsaw, since I know they're going to barber-chair. Think I'll try this with those. THANKS!

 

[wedge40]

Just found this thread, and have been enjoying it. I tried to imagine using this method with my tractor. I use my tractor in the woods a lot, and have approached a lot of jobs with little trepidation, but I just couldn't get my mind around just knocking over a relatively large tree with my tractor....then I looked up the specs and you have 1500 more pounds of tractor than I do. I've got a couple of smallish leaners that I'm hesitant to chainsaw, since I know they're going to barber-chair. Think I'll try this with those. THANKS!

Do it after a heavy rain. Roots lift easier in the mud.

Wedge

 

[bandaidmd]

By that, do you mean the loader or the fork frame?

The forks where bought new in 1985, as part of a Wheelhorse garden tractor package deal.
They bolted to an A frame for the 3 point hitch. I welded the angle iron on the back.
View attachment 324348 View attachment 324349 View attachment 324351

I added the outside piece of angle iron some time after putting this loader on the TORO.
View attachment 324352

Notice the chain slots at the ends of the bottom channel iron.
View attachment 324353 View attachment 324354

You are right about using the scrap bin, but I didn't empty it, didn't even come close too the bottom. :laughing:

I build things using the TLAR School of Engineering method. (That Looks About Right)
It has worked on three different loaders for 28 years, so TLAR works! :thumbsup:

Build thread for the loader: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/272163-fel-toro-groundsmaster-put-together.html

TLAR, Oh I'm stealing that term for sure.lol
It was the framework holding your "bucket" that intrigued me.

 

[94BULLITT]

This is my technique with the V417 and Gorilla Grapple.

With the boom retracted put the lower center tine on the tree, up about 6' on this dead one.
View attachment 324313

Slowly extend the boom.
View attachment 324317

This one will be easy, the dead roots are breaking.
View attachment 324318

Extend the boom further, notice the extend markings on the boom.
View attachment 324319

Don't have to worry about the root ball on this dead one!
View attachment 324320

Extend some more, it is almost all the way out.
View attachment 324319

That is a sand rock up on the trunk
View attachment 324321

Boom is fully extended, the V417 never moved.
View attachment 324323

Retracted the boom, stabbed the root ball with the lower center tine, picked it up and dropped it a few times to get rid of the rocks and dirt.
View attachment 324324 View attachment 324325 View attachment 324326

The V417 still hasn't moved from where it started pushing!
View attachment 324327 View attachment 324328

Found the balance point, notice the grapple top tines are open.
View attachment 324330

Took it to the burn pile.
View attachment 324331 View attachment 324332 View attachment 324333

It goes a lot faster when I don't stop to take pictures!

Nice pictures. Things do go faster when you don't stop to take pictures.

Roger, have you seen the mesh bags for firewood? Kiotiken told me about them. They are like an onion bag square and sit on a pallet and tie at the top. According to Ken, they hold most of a facecord. Then he stacks them two on the bottom and one on top. Cheap, about $2 each. I called the guy that sells them and ordered 25 to try. I'm gonna try them in the fall.

I have heard ken talk about them. I know they would help keep leafs out. Would there be any other advantages?

...a weightier tractor is the biggest help, here, IMHO.

More weight would help a lot.

 

[rmorey]

Nice pictures. Things do go faster when you don't stop to take pictures.



I have heard ken talk about them. I know they would help keep leafs out. Would there be any other advantages?



More weight would help a lot.

I think the bags will hold the load more secure while moving the pallets, especially on rough terrain. (Sorry for getting off topic)

 

[slofr8]

I thought I'd have to take the time to explain the way I do it but it does not differ from yours at all. Love this thing. Dude stopped by last week and asked if he could borrow my grapple for a couple of months. !!!???!! I thought...look around and pick something, ANYTHING, else, ****, my wifes even still hot! He left disappointed.

 

[Xfaxman]

Need to bump Piston's grapple technique thread for those interested.

Had a dead tree north of the driveway.

Backed through the ditch and up the hill.

Clamped on a limb.

Backed up until the trunk broke.

Grappled it. :thumbsup:

Took it to the burn pile.

 

[aginn]

That is an amazing machine. If I could afford something in addition to my tractor, I would have to have one myself.

 

[Piston]

That is an amazing machine. If I could afford something in addition to my tractor, I would have to have one myself.

+1 :thumbsup:

Thanks for bumping the thread XFax...Nice pics!

 

[mike69440]

If you have to have one machine other than a tractor an small, not mini excavator with front blade hydraulic thumb is my first choice. next would be a track steer. The tele-boom is nice but in mud it may be a problem.

 

[Xfaxman]

If you have to have one machine other than a tractor an small, not mini excavator with front blade hydraulic thumb is my first choice. next would be a track steer. The tele-boom is nice but in mud it may be a problem.

I guess you haven't seen my unstuckable posts. Sure it has been motion impaired in mud, but never stuck. With the boom it has always pushed or pulled itself out.

I sold my tractor soon after I got my first compact telehandler.

 

[rd_macgregor]

I sold my tractor soon after I got my first compact telehandler.

It is always a trade-off. A CUT is a more generalize device; I suspect the telehandler doesn't do a lot of pasture mowing or wood chipping (ie, the lack of PTO can be limiting). However, clearly the telehandler can outperform a CUT in loader-type jobs. I suspect it also has a greater hydraulic flow rate than the typical CUT, so would be much more flexible/competent in the set of hydraulic implements it could power.

 

[oosik]

I have used the "push it down flat" technique for brush around here and then come straight down with the grapple. Works good - and since most of my brush is wild roses - its a whole lot easier on the old bod.

Pushing down trees is a whole nother matter. My only trees are Ponderosa pine and when they die they are usually 28" to 36" diameter on the butt. I don't think I would try pushing one of them over - no matter how big my tractor was. The root ball that comes up when they do blow over is enough to cause considerable damage up front on any tractor.

Besides, I have a big 'ol Stihl designed just for that job. A ten foot chunk of 32" pine weighs in right at 3200#. There ain't none of this - picking up the whole tree in one load business.

 

[Xfaxman]

It is always a trade-off. A CUT is a more generalize device; I suspect the telehandler doesn't do a lot of pasture mowing or wood chipping (ie, the lack of PTO can be limiting). However, clearly the telehandler can outperform a CUT in loader-type jobs. I suspect it also has a greater hydraulic flow rate than the typical CUT, so would be much more flexible/competent in the set of hydraulic implements it could power.

The lack of a PTO Is not limiting, since it can use skid steer attachments such as a brush hog or wood chipper.

The hydraulic flow rate is 22 gpm. Pressure is 3600 psi.

This 7' rotary mower is what I bought 5 years ago for pasture mowing.