What caused this

[Mark @ Everlast]

You know what works really well? Go to the store you bought it from, mumbling about getting all their business addresses, etc for the small claims action you're going to take, because they are the local representative of the manufacturer.

Actually, the manufacturer is probably trying to bluff you. Ask them to define what over firing is, have them show you in the manual where this is discussed, warned against and defined; and ask them how they prove you over fired it.

Do it all by letter.

They'll wilt

I'd be willing to bet that over firing was in the manual. I've been around a lot of wood stoves. Everyone I have seen says it. Even my fireplace (prefab type) says it in it's instruction manual....warns of cracking brick etc if too large of fires are built. And from the looks of things, there's been a few hot fires in that fire place. The best thing to do is repair it, reinforce it if possible, and forget about it until the other side does the same thing.

It wouldn't be too hard to prove overfiring, by looking at stress on some metals, consumption of others, and even discoloration in hidden places. They probably could prove it if pushed, IF that is the case.

 

[joshuabardwell]

HEY! Lets not be running down those 120-volt Mig machines! I just bought one. :laughing:

Next you'll be telling us how easy it is to use!

 

[TCowner]

My Pacific Energy stove did the same thing but on the top. Of course, I was told even though there is a lifetime warranty there would be no coverage because I "over fired" it. I doubt many wood stove manufacturers pay out warranty claims because they get that waiver should a claim arise. Pacific Energy was willing to offer me a $100 credit on a new stove but that was it.

I will be replacing the stove this fall but it won't be with a Pacific Energy. I am going to take a serious look at the Blaze King. But I am going to look long and hard at the warranty and try to to them down with respect to "over firing".

 

[arrow]

I'd be willing to bet that over firing was in the manual. I've been around a lot of wood stoves. Everyone I have seen says it. Even my fireplace (prefab type) says it in it's instruction manual....warns of cracking brick etc if too large of fires are built. And from the looks of things, there's been a few hot fires in that fire place. The best thing to do is repair it, reinforce it if possible, and forget about it until the other side does the same thing.

It wouldn't be too hard to prove overfiring, by looking at stress on some metals, consumption of others, and even discoloration in hidden places. They probably could prove it if pushed, IF that is the case.

You are spot on with all of your statements Mark pertaining to "overfiring" In my manual, it sates that if any part of the stove glows red, it is considered over fired. Well my tubes are always glowing even when the fire is damped down all the way. Makes it really easy when they ask"has any part of your stove glowed red". Being the type I am, i'll look you straight in the eye (or in this case straight in the screen) and say "but of course as I have used the stove"

 

[arrow]

My Pacific Energy stove did the same thing but on the top. Of course, I was told even though there is a lifetime warranty there would be no coverage because I "over fired" it. I doubt many wood stove manufacturers pay out warranty claims because they get that waiver should a claim arise. Pacific Energy was willing to offer me a $100 credit on a new stove but that was it.

I will be replacing the stove this fall but it won't be with a Pacific Energy. I am going to take a serious look at the Blaze King. But I am going to look long and hard at the warranty and try to to them down with respect to "over firing".

Not good to hear as they were going to be my next stove company. I think it prudent to do a web search and Google in "cracked" Blaze King, or Hearthstone or any other manufacturer you are considering. Short of getting a wood burning device that isn't a wood furnace, it might be hard to escape this clause for any wood stove. I can fix this stove but the question remains is t cracked anywhere else that is not so evident. I would have never found these cracks if I did not take off the heat shield to clean it.

 

[arrow]

You know what works really well? Go to the store you bought it from, mumbling about getting all their business addresses, etc for the small claims action you're going to take, because they are the local representative of the manufacturer.

Actually, the manufacturer is probably trying to bluff you. Ask them to define what over firing is, have them show you in the manual where this is discussed, warned against and defined; and ask them how they prove you over fired it.

Do it all by letter.

They'll wilt

My original dealer is out of business but i would not insinuate litigation with the middleman just trying to make a living. He's at the beck and call of any stove manufacturer. Not o say this would stop anyone else but what I might do is contact my AG's office to fire off a letter to this company. According to what i am reading on the net, that seems to have worked for others. I think they will stonewall as long as they can otherwise. "If any part of the stove glows red" is rather ambiguous as a criteria for over-firing as this one glows red (tubes) at all times.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Well my tubes are always glowing even when the fire is damped down all the way.

When my stove top temp is below about 600 degrees, my normal burn range, my burn tubes don't glow red. A few times, I have let the stove top temp drift up north of 700 and have noticed the burn tubes start to glow. I always assumed when they said, "If any part glows red," they meant the outside. Metal starts to glow at around 900 degrees, and it's hardly unusual for the inside of the stove to get over 900.

What's your stove top temperature when your tubes are glowing?

 

[Shield Arc]

arrow here is a picture of key holing. When you see this you know for a fact you are getting 100 % penetration!

 

[Rock knocker]

My original dealer is out of business but i would not insinuate litigation with the middleman just trying to make a living. He's at the beck and call of any stove manufacturer. Not o say this would stop anyone else but what I might do is contact my AG's office to fire off a letter to this company. According to what i am reading on the net, that seems to have worked for others. I think they will stonewall as long as they can otherwise. "If any part of the stove glows red" is rather ambiguous as a criteria for over-firing as this one glows red (tubes) at all times.

It sounds like some parts do in fact glow red when the stove is normally operated. I would argue that their disclaimer is void because their conditions of voidance are unattainable are normal in everyday usage.

 

[joshuabardwell]

arrow here is a picture of key holing. When you see this you know for a fact you are getting 100 % penetration!

When I see that, I know for a fact that I'm about to burn through!

 

[arrow]

When my stove top temp is below about 600 degrees, my normal burn range, my burn tubes don't glow red. A few times, I have let the stove top temp drift up north of 700 and have noticed the burn tubes start to glow. I always assumed when they said, "If any part glows red," they meant the outside. Metal starts to glow at around 900 degrees, and it's hardly unusual for the inside of the stove to get over 900.

What's your stove top temperature when your tubes are glowing?

About 800*. This is with the primary air inlet totally closed and the secondary 3/4 closed. The stove being in the basement does not warrant an air damper almost closed. I'd be burning with low fires all day if this stove were in the living room. Burning cleanly warrants a hotter fire which is a safer (creosote wise) burn. Damed both ways at this juncture I guess.

 

[arrow]

arrow here is a picture of key holing. When you see this you know for a fact you are getting 100 % penetration!

Thanks Shield. I have never seen this with my welder hence why everything I weld breaks most of the time.

 

[Shield Arc]

When I see that, I know for a fact that I'm about to burn through!

That is what you want! The trick is to get the inside / backside to look as good as the outside.

 

[k0ua]

I think that's what they used on these "welds" for the forklift attachment hooks on this bucket.

View attachment 308202

Versus my "weld".


View attachment 308204

I'm hoping mine holds up a little better.

Brian

I am thinking that first, "weld" was some 6013 cold birdpoop... I bet yours will hold:thumbsup:

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

That weld looked like some 6010 or 6011 in the hands of a guy who only mig welds.

But the issue with overheating on the stoves is a problem for any steel made stove. Only cast iron stoves typically can be fired away...red or not, white hot or not. They're not as nifty and neat, but I've seen cast iron stoves cherry red and no issues...Just don't throw water on them or cool them down quickly or heat them too fast and they will last. The alternative is to build your own stove out of 1" plate.

 

[Shield Arc]

That weld looked like some 6010 or 6011 in the hands of a guy who only mig welds.

Are you talking about my open root pipe weld?

 

[arrow]

Are you talking about my open root pipe weld?

I believe he is referencing the pictures in the quote above your last one by James (KOua)

 

[Shield Arc]

Oh OK, hard for me to believe a Mig only weldor can run open root pipe like the pictures I posted. Mark generally doesn't pick on me to bad.:laughing:

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

No, I was talking about the chicken fecal matter that was supposedly a weld on the bucket posted above.

 

[FredH]

I would look at replacing the brick also . That is your first line of defense inside the stove and well , those in your picture look like they are beyond used up . We have the Quadra-fire Fire place in our 1800 sq. ft. house and we cannot even come close to getting it to hot . Designed to heat up to 3600 sq. ft. , it does real nice with smaller , less intense fires made of oak and madrone . I have seen the same thing on a small cast iron parlor stove years ago . People took out these cast iron shields that hung on the inside so they could put bigger wood inside it . To much direct heat to the sides cracked it open like yours on both sides .

I see your stove has it , ( my parents have a similar stove as yours , had it for years without issue ) , but our fireplace also that " Baffle " made out of this " Board " type stuff that is above the actual fire . Looks like Hardi backer or wonder board , but not as heavy . Also has a matting type stuff on top of that , that is about a 1" thick , thus heat does not go straight up the flue . I would consider replacing that to . We have only had our fireplace for 4 years but replaced the matting before this season . How thick or deep are them ashes ? We have a grate in ours , when ashes reach bottom of grate , we clean , thus keeping fire low in box .

In the '70's during high school , metal shop built wood stoves using mig welding then selling them to low income people for just the cost of the steel . That is until a local stove company found out they were using some of their designs and got a court order to stop .

Steel is Steel , put enough heat to it and things happen . I sure would be replacing them bricks though .

Fred H.