Trailer Winch Wiring

[cmyoung2]

This is similar to what I used, but I think what I got was cheaper.


Total price: $55.97

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This item:Battery Quick Connect/Disconnect Wire Harness Plug Connector Recovery Winch Trailer 2-4 GAUGE $14.99

ABN 2 Gauge 600 Amp Commercial Grade Parrot Clamps Booster 25 ft Jumper Cables $29.99

Install Bay Copper Ring Terminal 2 Gauge 3/8 Inch 10 Pack - CUR238 $10.99

 

[Fallon]

Anderson Powerpole and SB Connectors | Powerwerx specifically SB175 SB Series 175 Amp Anderson Powerpole Kit | Powerwerx in yellow (for 12v according to Anderson Powerpole - Wikipedia) is the best price around I've found.

I used 16 Ton Hydraulic Wire Terminal Crimper Battery Cable Lug Crimping Tool W/dies - - Amazon.com to crimp. Not the greatest tool, but adequate for occasional crimps. I suspect it's not any different than the higher priced similar Chinesium ones.

Also have some tinned copper lugs to crimp on for the battery post ends. Don't remember where I got them from. Probably Powerwerks as well.

 

[joefromga]

You need at least 1/0 cable for a 25ft run. You don't need a negative cable to battery. The chassis on clean metal is fine.

You definitely need a fuse at the battery. If not you'll cause a fire that you can't stop.

Go to a car stereo shop. They will have everything you need including the wire and fuse holders and connectors. Just bring the amperage draw from the winch specs to size it correctly.

 

[N80]

You need at least 1/0 cable for a 25ft run.

I'm not in a postion to dispute that but none of the kits I've seen use cable that big. The largest I've seen is 2 AWG. Most are 4. The eTrailer kit uses 3-AWG for winches up to 8000#. The amp draw for the unit I'm getting will be 250 amps and the duty cycle for the motor is like 2 minutes.

You don't need a negative cable to battery. The chassis on clean metal is fine.

Yes, some use the frame/ground.

You definitely need a fuse at the battery. If not you'll cause a fire that you can't stop.

Someone else mentioned this. Why? Most winch wiring kits don't come with one or recommend one. It seems to me this is nothing but a set of jumper cables to the winch used for very short periods.

Go to a car stereo shop. They will have everything you need including the wire and fuse holders and connectors. Just bring the amperage draw from the winch specs to size it correctly.

Not so easy around here. I'll search for one on line. The winch draws 250 amps. What size fuse do I need? Connectors aren't a problem.

Something like this?:

Amazon.com: ANL IN-LINE 3-AMP FUSE AND HOLDER, /2/4/8 Gauge, AWG, RING CONNECTOR STYLE. GETWIREDUA FX322 3A: Car Electronics

 

[Travelover]

Jumper cables can be a source of cheap heavy gauge wire, but be sure the wires are are not CCA (copper clad aluminum). This wire has a lot more resistance than pure copper wire.

 

[joefromga]

I'm not in a postion to dispute that but none of the kits I've seen use cable that big. The largest I've seen is 2 AWG. Most are 4. The eTrailer kit uses 3-AWG for winches up to 8000#. The amp draw for the unit I'm getting will be 250 amps and the duty cycle for the motor is like 2 minutes.



Yes, some use the frame/ground.



Someone else mentioned this. Why? Most winch wiring kits don't come with one or recommend one. It seems to me this is nothing but a set of jumper cables to the winch used for very short periods.



Not so easy around here. I'll search for one on line. The winch draws 250 amps. What size fuse do I need? Connectors aren't a problem.

Something like this?:

Amazon.com: ANL IN-LINE 3-AMP FUSE AND HOLDER, /2/4/8 Gauge, AWG, RING CONNECTOR STYLE. GETWIREDUA FX322 3A: Car Electronics

Yes that's the fuse you need.

If the wire gets cut or shorts to ground or someone pinches it with the truck or any other accident it will turn your battery into a welder and the cable will heat up so hot so fast you can't grab it or move it or do anything really. The fuse is for safety.

250 amps is a lot of power at 12v. Lots of heat and at 25 feet there's a long way for it go. Length adds resistance which adds voltage drop which adds more heat in a vicious cycle.

Also don't use it with the engine off or you'll have a dead battery.

Check a wiring/amperage chart for the length and amperage you'll be pulling and you'll see.

 

[N80]

Jumper cables can be a source of cheap heavy gauge wire, but be sure the wires are are not CCA (copper clad aluminum). This wire has a lot more resistance than pure copper wire.

All of the cheaper ones use CCA.

 

[N80]

Yes that's the fuse you need.

If the wire gets cut or shorts to ground or someone pinches it with the truck or any other accident it will turn your battery into a welder and the cable will heat up so hot so fast you can't grab it or move it or do anything really. The fuse is for safety.

Got it.

Check a wiring/amperage chart for the length and amperage you'll be pulling and you'll see.

I'll try to look that up, but again, the kit that eTrailer recommends for this winch is 3 AWG.

 

[LittleBill21]

unless you plan on upgrading the grounding strap going from the engine/frame, then run a negative wire as well. half the time the grounding strap is in horrible shape. and usually 8 gauge

 

[N80]

unless you plan on upgrading the grounding strap going from the engine/frame, then run a negative wire as well. half the time the grounding strap is in horrible shape. and usually 8 gauge

I was wondering about that. Some of the kits have a large gauge ground wire from negative lead to frame and then another short length of same from frame to connector at the back of the truck.

This is all getting complicated and so much conflicting data.

2 AWG copper cable is expensive. 25' of red and black is about $60. Inline fuse = $16. 300 amp quick connectors = $20. Ring connectors = $5 or $10 for good ones with set screws. That puts me at $106. The 3 AWG kit is $130 with ring connectors fixed on one end of black and red cables. The kit is looking more attractive but it does not come with a fuse.

Now I see why so many folks just run the trailer winch off a spare battery (which I have). I've also already got a battery tender to keep it charged and that route is looking better every second.

As it stands the wiring and mounting hardware are going to cost more than the winch!

 

[N80]

Check a wiring/amperage chart for the length and amperage you'll be pulling and you'll see.

Most of the ones I can find are for high watt car stereo amps and conflict with everything I've read about winch wiring. I'm assuming because stereo amps are constant draw whereas a winch is short periods of usage. Again, the duty cycle on mine is 2 minutes!

 

[MossRoad]

I've been considering an electric winch for my trailer with a battery at the trailer as well. If I do it, I'd get a battery isolator and just charge the winch battery through the trailer lighting/brake connector. The isolator will allow the winch battery to charge from the truck, but won't allow the winch to draw power from the truck, only the battery on the trailer. Then you don't have to run heavy wire from the front to the back of the truck and you don't have to connect two sets of wires to the trailer. You can also use the winch battery as the breakaway battery for the trailer brakes, I believe (but don't quote me on that).

However, since you want to run the winch on the truck AND on the trailer, I'd think you'd be best with your plan for jumper cables and no permanent wiring on the truck or trailer at all.

 

[N80]

I've been considering an electric winch for my trailer with a battery at the trailer as well. If I do it, I'd get a battery isolator and just charge the winch battery through the trailer lighting/brake connector. The isolator will allow the winch battery to charge from the truck, but won't allow the winch to draw power from the truck, only the battery on the trailer. Then you don't have to run heavy wire from the front to the back of the truck and you don't have to connect two sets of wires to the trailer.

That is what the first responder recommended. I'm now reconsidering that as a low cost option.

However, since you want to run the winch on the truck AND on the trailer,

That might have to wait as an option.

I'd think you'd be best with your plan for jumper cables and no permanent wiring on the truck or trailer at all.

The 25' jumper cables that cost less than $75 are copper clad aluminum. Probably makes no difference for what I'll be doing. So I'm coming back around to that.

 

[hawkeye08]

I'm putting a winch on my trailer, putting a battery in a toolbox. I'll also get jumper cables in case I need them.

 

[MossRoad]

Just a note....

My 1993 Suburban is 219" long front to back. That's over 18'. The battery is at the front corner, so being generous, I'd say take a foot away for that. That would give me about 8' of play behind the truck. Is that enough to reach a winch mounted on the bed of my car hauler trailer while considering laying jumper cables on the ground, around the corner, over the A frame, hoping the cable clamps hold to the battery posts while I pull it around, etc...? Just something to think about before you make that purchase. Measure it out a couple times and allow for slack.

 

[kenmac]

I have an 8K ramsey winch on my trailer. I ran wires from truck battery back. Installed these Anderson Power Products - 6319 - SB 5 SB 5 connector Gray Power Connector Housing - Allied Electronics at the back of my truck and wires from the winch. I ran the ground from the truck battery back because I was always having ground issues (rust, dirt, grime). I welded a SS bolt to my trailer and connected ground for winch there for the same reason, rust dirt grime = bad ground connection. I could buy wire and connectors cheaper than buying and maintaining another battery

 

[Fallon]

Ya, CCA wire is crap, stay away from it unless you want problems. It exists because it's way cheaper & people don't understand the problems it causes. It's half the price so people keep buying it. Real copper 25' jumper cables of s decent gauge (2 or bigger) are going to be $60-70+.

You can get away with slightly smaller wiring because of the limited duty cycle of the winch, but using a wiring chart & figuring based on the max amp draw & cable length is best.

You want to fuse at a bit higher than the max amp draw, or the wires themselves melting or the battery blowing up will be the fuse. It only takes one dropped wrench in the wrong spot or dropping a clamp (I love the Anderson plugs so I can get all the clamps on battery posts before I connect the plug to jump vehicles).

Copper ain't cheap these days. Probably have $300-400 in jumper cables & other wires to support my winch & nice jumper cable setup on a couple vehicles.

 

[N80]

Thanks guys. Here is my plan (for the moment):

For now, I'm going to keep the spare battery on a battery tender and use it to run the winch.

Next, I'm going to buy the 3-AWG wiring kit from eTrailer. I called them and they confirmed it was made for the winch I've purchased (from them). It is actually $130 which is a bitter pill to swallow but it has ring terminals in place on the battery ends, it is all copper wire. It comes with Anderson connectors. I will buy an in-line ANL fuse holder. The winch's max draw is 350 amps. For the things I plan to do I will probably never draw that much. I'll get a few 350 amp and 400 amp fuses since they are cheap. I'm assuming I put the fuse on the positive line right at the battery? When I get my new-used truck I'll remove the harness from this truck. I'll have about $150 just in the wiring but from the advice I've gotten here and from eTrailer this should be safe and adequate for my needs.

This all seems like a lot of money and trouble for a trailer winch. But, loading my track car is often difficult and tedious. I got the wireless remote with the winch so now it should be much more controlled. Plus, if I damage the car at the track (BTDT) or it won't run, I'll still be able to get it on the trailer. Same if I ever have a dead tractor, etc. Plus, the winch will be mounted to the trailer with a box hitch so I'll be able to use it on the rear of the truck if I need it for other jobs. All together with wiring and mounting this little winch is going to set me back $500.

 

[Fallon]

Yup, always fuse as close to the battery as possible to protect the whole cable. A fuse next to the winch does nothing to protect things if the wire between the fuse & the battery chafed or gets cut.

 

[Travelover]

Just as an aside, my local metal recycler has all kinds of scrapped heavy gauge wire that he resells for a fraction of what new copper wire costs. If you have a cooperative recycler in your area, it might be worth your while to see what they have.