Trailer wiring

[Torvy]

So the dogs discovered that our trailer's wiring plug was a great toy. They tore the entire front third of the wiring out.

Oddly enough I had moved the trailer up to a work space close to the barn so I could fix a minor problem.

It's a 14'x77" utility with HD Axle and brake.

Need some opinions. Should I try DIY, or take it to town?

If I do it myself, is there a full harness for that type of thing or do I need to just get individual wiring and string it myself?

Any tricks, suggestions for storing or hiding the connection so the beasts leave it alone?

Thanks

 

[TractorTech]

If you are capable, DIY is pretty simple. You can start with a connector/cable and junction box for the front end.

https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Wiring-sf-Trailer_Connectors-pt-Trailer_End_Connector.aspx

If 6 wire, you can buy this:

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Deka/DW04906-1.html

Or 7 wire:

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Deka/DK74FR.html

With butt connectors you can make it like new.

As far as protection, slide a piece of PVC pipe over the trailer wire

 

[WM75Guy]

I have something like this on my horse trailer to protect the plug when not in use. Etrailer has plugs with 10' of wire molded into the plug. Most trailer dealers that have parts should also have it. You can then splice it to your existing wiring. Cover the butt connectors with heat shrink to help protect them from the weather.

Amazon.com: Optronics ACP7BP 7-way Round Trailer Harness Plug Protector : Automotive

 

[QRTRHRS]

My trailer wire routes over the top of the frame by the jack. When I replaced the battery box and did some wiring repair, I mounted the box on the jack with U-bolts.
The replacement wire with the junction box would be my choice. I added a junction box to my existing wire and it made it easy to make the connections while keeping them organized.

When not in use, I wrap the wire around the jack and place a five gallon bucket over it keeping everything out of the weather and somewhat limiting curious dogs.

 

[skipmarcy]

All of my trailer wiring connections are soldered and shrink wrapped, butt connectors for emergency repairs on the road only. Same on the vehicle side and dielectric grease is your friend with plugs and receptacles. When I go to use my trailer after sitting for a year or two, everything still works like it's supposed to.

 

[QRTRHRS]

When I was doing my rewiring, I took the time to remove, sand and paint my jack. To limit the effect of weather, I use this bucket. The breakaway switch is somewhat exposed but I do have the wires to that encased in plastic tubing and secured to the frame.

 

[Fallon]

I'll do crimp connectors if they are the heat shrink type & I can manage to crimp them without damaging the plastic. I prefer uninsulated crimps & heat shrink though. Crimps are as good or better than soldering if done properly. Unsealed is never right for external wiring, except for emergencies.

 

[CoyPatton]

Personally, for wiring repairs, I always install a junction box. This is a connivence for wiring needs. A great place to make your trailer brake battery connections to the trailer wiring. They are fairly cheap ($10.00ish on Amazon) and make future replacement of pigtails for connectors pretty simple.
With the size of your trailer (14’) especially if pulled through rough terrain areas, I use a combination of wiring loom and PVC pipe to provided protection to wiring. I use clamps to keep the loom tucked up close to frame (inside channel steel where available). I also like to leave a double length of string through the PVC runs. If new wire needs to be ran in the future, it makes pulling wire easier.

 

[sunandsand]

Crimpers . . . the cheapo ones belong in the box of garbage tools you lend to people who you know will misuse them and never bring them back ("Hey, this Snap-On screwdriver I borrowed makes a great pry bar, and the Snap-On torque wrench also works real well as a hammer!").

Spend a few bucks and get a ratcheting crimper. It won't release until the squeeze is sufficiently tight enough to make the connection permanent.

I see them at flea markets from time to time, few people know what they are and the prices run $20-$30 tops.

I bought a top grade aircraft wire crimper (which works fine on non-aircraft applications like HF trailers, etc.) for a fat $25, new in the box. Called the manufacturer in Orlando for detailed instructions, the thing sells for $450 new . . . Holy Wazoo Batman! I'm almost tempted to put it into my safe.

Best Regards,
Mike/Florida

 

[EscapedSuburbia]

I'm with the others who recommend a junction box. Trailer wiring takes abuse and having a junction box makes replacement easy since you can buy an overmolded pigtail and just run that to the junction box instead of having to run new wires to each light and the brakes.

 

[pghyndman]

As a side note—if you want to keep rodents from nibbling on the wiring of outdoor equipment, we’ve had good luck with mint-based spray repellents. You can usually find them at TSC, Lowe’s, and most hardware stores.

 

[Torvy]

As a side note—if you want to keep rodents from nibbling on the wiring of outdoor equipment, we’ve had good luck with mint-based spray repellents. You can usually find them at TSC, Lowe’s, and most hardware stores.

We use cats to keep tabs on the rats and mice. I have no interest in repelling vermin.

 

[Torvy]

Thanks all.

Yes, the trailer does most of its work around the farm. (Off road) PVC sounds like a good option.

We make a few trips a year inside 40 miles to get materials or haul a piece of equipment.

 

[garry1p]

If you have never used WAGO connectors look them up on YouTube or Amazon.

More expensive than wire connectors but I prefer them over wire nuts.

 

[4570Man]

If you have never used WAGO connectors look them up on YouTube or Amazon.

More expensive than wire connectors but I prefer them over wire nuts.

I like those for connecting light fixtures with small gauge stranded wires to 12 or 14 gauge solid wires but i would use them for trailer wiring. A simple crimp cap is cheap and about as reliable as it gets besides soldering.

 

[sunandsand]

I did get a box of assorted WAGO connectors and I thought they were a pretty good idea, and better than wire nuts, which I have never been a particular fan of anyway.

Turns out you shouldn't use them on aluminum wire (different coefficient of expansion, and if your home has aluminum wire, you have bigger problems than using wire nuts) and they don't work well on stranded wire because the strands "squish" unpredictably when the WAGO closes.

They are really for solid copper wire.

I stopped using them when one of them caught fire (!) on power-up, and several of them didn't grip the wire properly and the wire slipped out of the connector. (Don'tcha just love the idea of bare, live wires flopping around inside metal junction boxes?)

I do use them for low or no power connections like speaker wires, and on breadboards for temporary projects. I won't use them on AC power lines, I simply don't trust them. I know they are NEC approved, but I will continue to splice and connect wires with a) wire nuts, b) crimp caps and splices done with a proper ratcheting crimper, or c) soldering for anything permanent, as appropriate.

Best Regards,
Mike/Florida

 

[Fallon]

I love Wagos for home wiring & have a few assortment boxes of them. I wouldn't use them in a trailer though. In a sealed box maybe, but I prefer a more rugged bolted or crimped connection. Unsealed connections have no business on a trailer unless it's in a weatherproof container. They did use them on the 120v system in my 5th wheel trailer. I'm not convinced they will hold up to vibrations, but who knows. At least all of those are in interior dry location.