Trailer warning, this could happen to you

   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you #61  
I fill them with silicone when I put them back together.
If you are using RTV, make sure that it is electrical grade. Normal RTV produces acetic acid as it cures, and I've seen wires and connections fully corroded from the RTV... a clear case of the "cure" being worse than the problem you were trying to prevent.
 
   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you #62  
A bit of hot melt glue works great on electrical connections. Use it to seal connections on the trailer.
 
   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you #63  
Go down and get you a 7 pin replacement plug and open it up and check how it's labeled. Then wire it based on the color code provided by E-trailer. You'll get a rude awakening when you test it out.

That color code you posted on that diagram from E-trailer is wrong

Plug placement might be correct. But you will encounter a huge gremlin since about 90% of the replacement 7 pin rv plugs are labeled for color.

Occasionally I'll have one labeled for use.

I don't know man.... I've only had 18 years replacing those plugs multiple times a week
I recently purchased a new to me, travel trailer made by Arctic Fox that needed a new 7pin plug. I pulled one out of my 12v electrical box along with a diagram on wiring it that I've used several times, but more than 15 years ago. It did not match the OEM plug on the trailer. I duplicated the OEM wiring and all works fine on my 2024 F350 as does the plug I put on my box trailer 15 years ago. I don't understand!!!
 
   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you #64  
I don't get too hung up on the wire colors. They can vary from trailer to trailer.

Where it can get tricky is when going from commercial 7-pin round to 7 flat, and that's because the brake and turn signals are separated on the commercial side.
 
   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you #65  
I don't get too hung up on the wire colors. They can vary from trailer to trailer.

Where it can get tricky is when going from commercial 7-pin round to 7 flat, and that's because the brake and turn signals are separated on the commercial side.
I have a Ranger trailer light tester box at work that handles everything but the commercial trailer.

It's set up for the 7 pin rv plug, plus it came with the adapter that does 6 round, and 4 or 5 flat.

I pinned out and changed one side of a 6ft semi trailer cable to the 7 pin rv plug.

This way I can use my box to test our semi trailers at work.

I combined the side lights and back marker lights to work off the marker light circuit on the box.

Turn signals are hooked to the corresponding turn signal on the box.

And wired the brake lights to the trailer brake circuit on the box since automotive brake lights and turn signals use the same bulb on trailers.

It's also saved me and my employees some time if we have a third party hauler complaining that the trailer lights don't work. We can easily determine if it's a trailer wiring issue, or if it's the third parties truck thats the issue.

I just have to remind my employees that the brake lights on a semi trailer are triggered by the trailer brake circuit on my test box.
 
   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you #66  
   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you #69  
I often use hot-melt glue to seal/protect electrical connections. Any opinions or experience from others with this, good or bad?

Never thought of hot glue. For exterior connections I use a liquid electrical tape followed by heat shrink tubing.
 
   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you
  • Thread Starter
#70  
I’ll tell you this, ever since I found and removed the tiny screw, no more wacky trailer brakes.
That could have been a disaster. Once you slide back the cover and look at the guts of your trailer plug, you can see how easily this could happen.

I was thinking of using Loctite.
 
   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you #71  
I’ll tell you this, ever since I found and removed the tiny screw, no more wacky trailer brakes.
That could have been a disaster. Once you slide back the cover and look at the guts of your trailer plug, you can see how easily this could happen.

I was thinking of using Loctite.
I would use Loctite before I used any other suggestions listed on here. Not that they do or don't work, but with my thoughts, Loctite is used to lock screws, whereas the other items "may or may not" accomplish what you are trying to do, and "IF" a wire got loose, which increases resistance, which causes heat. Now "just IF" the stuff you are putting in contact with the heat source happens to be an item that will burn and you have pressed it up against a heat source... HOW COULD THAT GO WRONG?
The silicone or the other stuff isn't designed to keep the screws tight, which is where the problem started.
David from jax
 
   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you #72  
I borrowed my nephews equipment trailer and the plug had been dragged and ruined.
Since I already have spares on hand I replaced his plug, then the fun began. Someone had spliced a turn signal wire with a different color, and I'd followed the color code (now 2 red wires) for a 7-pin Bargman plug.
Often a VOM is invaluable.
 
   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you #73  
I borrowed my nephews equipment trailer and the plug had been dragged and ruined.
Since I already have spares on hand I replaced his plug, then the fun began. Someone had spliced a turn signal wire with a different color, and I'd followed the color code (now 2 red wires) for a 7-pin Bargman plug.
Often a VOM is invaluable.
And a few minutes checking the actual working featues of the trailer once you have it wired and ready to go! There is a lot to be said about doing a pre-trip inspection on a trailer (and tow vehicle!)
David from jax
 
   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you #74  
I borrowed my nephews equipment trailer and the plug had been dragged and ruined.
Since I already have spares on hand I replaced his plug, then the fun began. Someone had spliced a turn signal wire with a different color, and I'd followed the color code (now 2 red wires) for a 7-pin Bargman plug.
Often a VOM is invaluable.
I have some 30ft test leads with alligator clips on each end. It was a give me from Matco a couple years ago in a Christmas giveaway.

If i'm running into an issue where someone got creative with wiring, I'll break out those leads and my ranger test box.

I'll hook the ground lead to ground on the battery and the ground wire in the harness.

Then start running power to each of the other wires in the plug to see which light comes on

Definitely beats tracing wires.
 
   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you #75  
There are so many factors to consider and put together, for my 2" ball mount I'm using a Draw Tite drawbar rated for 16,000 pounds with a 2" ball rated for 12,000 pounds.
My RAM with the 2" receiver is rated for a bit over 11,000 pounds.
My new trailer is rated for 14,000 pounds GTW on a 2 5/16" ball and seeing as how I could easily get to the upper limits I got a kind of fancy drawbar which is rated for a little less then the trailers max GVW but more then the truck is rated for. It's a Weigh Safe rated for 12,500 pounds with a built in scale for the tongue weight.
Have the same setup and love it!
 
   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you #76  
Have the same setup and love it!
Of course my new truck has the 2 1/2" receiver so now the question is do I just use the adapter sleeve or a new hitch to match the trucks capabilities :)
Which kicks me up to a max trailer of 18,230 pounds.
 
   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you #77  
Of course my new truck has the 2 1/2" receiver so now the question is do I just use the adapter sleeve or a new hitch to match the trucks capabilities :)
Which kicks me up to a max trailer of 18,230 pounds.
You will never be happy with that adapter sleeve rattling around!

Resistance is futile, you must get a new hitch.
 
   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you #79  
   / Trailer warning, this could happen to you
  • Thread Starter
#80  
Of course my new truck has the 2 1/2" receiver so now the question is do I just use the adapter sleeve or a new hitch to match the trucks capabilities :)
Which kicks me up to a max trailer of 18,230 pounds.
You got a newtruck?

(y)
 

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