Trailer warning, this could happen to you

[Jstpssng]

Only one axle of tandem axle trailers have brakes (at least that is the case on my 5th wheel and car trailer).

Brakes are mandated here on all axles, for trailers over 3000 lbs.

 

[mrmikey]

Wow that's quite a reminder to 'check your work'!

For sure.
Every time I hook my small trailer up I'll check the lights and test the trailer brakes by operating the brake controller manually. I'm on gravel so I can see the trailer wheels lock up.

 

[HWSkip]

I have your typical Pequea 10,000lb 20’ trailer. It’s a 2022, so still fairly new. Been a very good trailer.
Typical uses are hauling mowers and lighter equipment around, nothing unusual.

One time last year, while running empty down the highway, I hit a huge bump. Trailer actually “got air”, landed and the trailer brakes locked. By the time I quickly got pulled over, I lost 2 of the 4 tires. Came very close to a loss of control of the trailer. I never understood why the brakes locked. Trailer worked perfectly since that event. I replaced the 2 bad tires, trailer break-away kit and the battery and the battery housing, just in case it had some kind of glitch in it.

Fast forward to 2 weeks ago and the same thing happened, but at very low speed, so just a couple skid marks.
Then last week, it happened again on my driveway, again at low speed, but I knew I needed to figure this out before a tragedy. Looked at everything I could think of.

While disconnecting the trailer, I pulled the 7 pin plug and heard a rattle in the plug itself. I removed the tiny locking screw and slid the cover back on the plug. Inside the cover, one of the short brass wire anchoring screws (the one for the center lug) had come loose and was floating around.

I believe that randomly, that wire anchoring screw would jump into the right spot where the brake connection wire is and ground out with the terminal next to it and cause the brakes to lock. Could this have been the reason the brakes locked? Makes sense to me.

I thought to myself that anyone with a trailer plug could have this happen. Pull the cover off your plug. Tighten the small screws. Make sure you remove or greatly tighten/use thread lock on any that are unused!

I always put RTV Sealant on the Screw Connectors so that they don't come Loose

 

[mjonesnh]

Only one axle of tandem axle trailers have brakes (at least that is the case on my 5th wheel and car trailer).

Brakes on both axles for me. 7k dual axle

 

[Dadah]

I have your typical Pequea 10,000lb 20’ trailer. It’s a 2022, so still fairly new. Been a very good trailer.
Typical uses are hauling mowers and lighter equipment around, nothing unusual.

One time last year, while running empty down the highway, I hit a huge bump. Trailer actually “got air”, landed and the trailer brakes locked. By the time I quickly got pulled over, I lost 2 of the 4 tires. Came very close to a loss of control of the trailer. I never understood why the brakes locked. Trailer worked perfectly since that event. I replaced the 2 bad tires, trailer break-away kit and the battery and the battery housing, just in case it had some kind of glitch in it.

Fast forward to 2 weeks ago and the same thing happened, but at very low speed, so just a couple skid marks.
Then last week, it happened again on my driveway, again at low speed, but I knew I needed to figure this out before a tragedy. Looked at everything I could think of.

While disconnecting the trailer, I pulled the 7 pin plug and heard a rattle in the plug itself. I removed the tiny locking screw and slid the cover back on the plug. Inside the cover, one of the short brass wire anchoring screws (the one for the center lug) had come loose and was floating around.

I believe that randomly, that wire anchoring screw would jump into the right spot where the brake connection wire is and ground out with the terminal next to it and cause the brakes to lock. Could this have been the reason the brakes locked? Makes sense to me.

I thought to myself that anyone with a trailer plug could have this happen. Pull the cover off your plug. Tighten the small screws. Make sure you remove or greatly tighten/use thread lock on any that are unused!

Thanks!!

 

[neilpaku]

Were both wheels that locked up on the same axle? If so, it could be that, because the trailer was empty, when the brakes came on at full power, the load sharing caused that axle to become unloaded more than the other axle. The other thing is that your other wheels' brakes just might not be any good. I usually do a brake test when I hook up my trailer to confirm all four wheels lock

 

[joea99]

Many "silicone's" will cause corrosion, they have an acetic acid base that citrus smell that you smell while working with it. A latex caulk will not cause corrosion

That may apply to silicone caulk or "curing" sealants, but not to silicone paste which stays soft. That is used all the time for weather exposed connectors.

Amazon.com

 

[can do]

I have your typical Pequea 10,000lb 20’ trailer. It’s a 2022, so still fairly new. Been a very good trailer.
Typical uses are hauling mowers and lighter equipment around, nothing unusual.

One time last year, while running empty down the highway, I hit a huge bump. Trailer actually “got air”, landed and the trailer brakes locked. By the time I quickly got pulled over, I lost 2 of the 4 tires. Came very close to a loss of control of the trailer. I never understood why the brakes locked. Trailer worked perfectly since that event. I replaced the 2 bad tires, trailer break-away kit and the battery and the battery housing, just in case it had some kind of glitch in it.

Fast forward to 2 weeks ago and the same thing happened, but at very low speed, so just a couple skid marks.
Then last week, it happened again on my driveway, again at low speed, but I knew I needed to figure this out before a tragedy. Looked at everything I could think of.

While disconnecting the trailer, I pulled the 7 pin plug and heard a rattle in the plug itself. I removed the tiny locking screw and slid the cover back on the plug. Inside the cover, one of the short brass wire anchoring screws (the one for the center lug) had come loose and was floating around.

I believe that randomly, that wire anchoring screw would jump into the right spot where the brake connection wire is and ground out with the terminal next to it and cause the brakes to lock. Could this have been the reason the brakes locked? Makes sense to me.

I thought to myself that anyone with a trailer plug could have this happen. Pull the cover off your plug. Tighten the small screws. Make sure you remove or greatly tighten/use thread lock on any that are unused!

Great TIP! In Virginia your required a annual inspection on trailers that have dual axles they do a good job checking everything, But they never check the sleeve for the 7 way connections. I very rarely check it myself, & the only reason I check it is; It was required on pre, inter, & post trip inspections to check your pigtail when I drove a truck for 40+ years, But nobody ever checks inside the plug'n sleeve. Again great warning Hay Dude that will be a item on my safety check list from now on I just did a 841 mile trip with my trailer earlier this year to pick up a car. I checked everything on the trailer, But that thank You again.

 

[RandyT]

Brakes are mandated here on all axles, for trailers over 3000 lbs.

Here in IL it is 3001-5000 is brakes on one axle. And 5001 and over is all axles. The issue is people will purchase 7x16 tandem axle utility trailers with no brakes and license them for 3000 lbs. Or like I saw this morning a 7 x 16 utility with no brakes, 4 pin wiring harness, and 2 inch ball. So license for 3000 lbs, the 2 inch ball limits the trailer to a 5000 lbs hitch rating, and the trailer has 2-3500 lbs axles.

 

[EmeraldCity]

the 2 inch ball limits the trailer to a 5000 lbs hitch rating, and the trailer has 2-3500 lbs axles.

I've found exceptions. There are 2" balls that are rated for 12,000lbs. I have a 22 flat bed with a 12k 2" ball receiver. Came that way from the factory. I made sure I got a 2" 12k rated ball to pull it. I hauled my 1967 Ford 3000 w/FEL and a Kubota GR2000 from Seattle to near Waco, TX. But I'm not comfortable with it so plan to have the receiver cut off and a new one welded on that accepts a 2 5/8" ball.

Rich
Copperas Cove, TX

 

[LouNY]

Yes there are several 12,000 pound 2" balls available and even a few 14,000 GTW 2" balls.
And in the other extreme there are 2 5/16" trailer ball only rated for 6000 GTW and less.
In my mind a bigger concern is the rated capacity of your drawbar in the trucks reciever they are often found with balls rated much higher then the drawbar, especially in the half tonners and even older 3/4 ton with the 2" receivers, the 2 1/2" are better rated usually. then you will find people with a 1 1/2" receiver with the adapter sleeve in for a 2 inch drawbar

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

I've found exceptions. There are 2" balls that are rated for 12,000lbs. I have a 22 flat bed with a 12k 2" ball receiver. Came that way from the factory. I made sure I got a 2" 12k rated ball to pull it. I hauled my 1967 Ford 3000 w/FEL and a Kubota GR2000 from Seattle to near Waco, TX. But I'm not comfortable with it so plan to have the receiver cut off and a new one welded on that accepts a 2 5/8" ball.

Rich
Copperas Cove, TX

My truck is an old GMC Sierra 1500 rated for about 7800 lb. tow capacity. My receiver is rated for about 10000 lb. with a load leveling hitch installed. The load leveling hitch is good for 10000 lb. The 2" ball is rated for 7500 lb (if I recall correctly - had a hard time finding anything over 5000 lb.), and the trailer is a 7000 lb dual axle trailer (3500 each axle).

Took me weeks to find the components I needed to feel comfortable hauling my 6000 lb tractor/loader/backhoe. Still feels sketchy at times and I look forward to the day I can upgrade to a bigger truck.

 

[RandyT]

I've found exceptions. There are 2" balls that are rated for 12,000lbs. I have a 22 flat bed with a 12k 2" ball receiver. Came that way from the factory. I made sure I got a 2" 12k rated ball to pull it. I hauled my 1967 Ford 3000 w/FEL and a Kubota GR2000 from Seattle to near Waco, TX. But I'm not comfortable with it so plan to have the receiver cut off and a new one welded on that accepts a 2 5/8" ball.

Rich
Copperas Cove, TX

And it would only be legal to license in IL as a 5000 lbs trailer.

 

[LouNY]

My truck is an old GMC Sierra 1500 rated for about 7800 lb. tow capacity. My receiver is rated for about 10000 lb. with a load leveling hitch installed. The load leveling hitch is good for 10000 lb. The 2" ball is rated for 7500 lb (if I recall correctly - had a hard time finding anything over 5000 lb.), and the trailer is a 7000 lb dual axle trailer (3500 each axle).

Took me weeks to find the components I needed to feel comfortable hauling my 6000 lb tractor/loader/backhoe. Still feels sketchy at times and I look forward to the day I can upgrade to a bigger truck.

There are so many factors to consider and put together, for my 2" ball mount I'm using a Draw Tite drawbar rated for 16,000 pounds with a 2" ball rated for 12,000 pounds.
My RAM with the 2" receiver is rated for a bit over 11,000 pounds.
My new trailer is rated for 14,000 pounds GTW on a 2 5/16" ball and seeing as how I could easily get to the upper limits I got a kind of fancy drawbar which is rated for a little less then the trailers max GVW but more then the truck is rated for. It's a Weigh Safe rated for 12,500 pounds with a built in scale for the tongue weight.

 

[M59]

There are so many factors to consider and put together, for my 2" ball mount I'm using a Draw Tite drawbar rated for 16,000 pounds with a 2" ball rated for 12,000 pounds.
My RAM with the 2" receiver is rated for a bit over 11,000 pounds.
My new trailer is rated for 14,000 pounds GTW on a 2 5/16" ball and seeing as how I could easily get to the upper limits I got a kind of fancy drawbar which is rated for a little less then the trailers max GVW but more then the truck is rated for. It's a Weigh Safe rated for 12,500 pounds with a built in scale for the tongue weight.

LouNY,
Be careful with where you haul with that combination with truck rated pull of 11K and trailer gross rating of 14K. State troopers have a pretty good idea of what truck is rated to pull what load and you may get a serious looking over. DOT fines get expensive fast. The trailer, depending on type could be 4K Lbs ( my 14K dump trailer weighs 4K ) leaving you only 7K of legal load. Depending on what your hauling that could be as little as 2- 2.5 yards of gravel if your 14K is a dump trailer.

 

[Dftodd]

Somewhat similar story years ago on the news. There was a deadly accident at an intersection. A fella hauling a trailer with a small loader (I think) went thru the stop sign he had and T boned a car that had the right of way. They couldn't figure out why as the guy was familiar with the area. At the scene there was a series of regular intermittent skid marks on the asphalt well before the intersection and they couldn't figure out why would he pump the brakes.
Ended up he was intending to turn at the intersection so obviously he had his turn signal on. Previous day he had rewired the trailer plug and inadvertently wired the trailer brakes to the turn signal. A very simple mistake.

If someone is used to how a four flat is wired, and they apply the same color code to a 7 pin rv plug, then it's easy for that to happen.

The 7 pin rv has a totally different color code for what the color is used for.

The exception is white is ground.

I see that mistake quite often.

Brown is parking lights on a 4 flat, but is the right turn on on a 7 pin rv plug.

Yellow is left turn on a four flat, and auxiliary power (usually back up lights) on a 7 pin rv plug.

Green is right turn on a four flat, and parking lights on the rv plug.

I'm not sure how the person ended up with their turn signal engaging the trailer brakes though.

 

[Dftodd]

Here in IL it is 3001-5000 is brakes on one axle. And 5001 and over is all axles. The issue is people will purchase 7x16 tandem axle utility trailers with no brakes and license them for 3000 lbs. Or like I saw this morning a 7 x 16 utility with no brakes, 4 pin wiring harness, and 2 inch ball. So license for 3000 lbs, the 2 inch ball limits the trailer to a 5000 lbs hitch rating, and the trailer has 2-3500 lbs axles.

The 2" hitch on my tandom axle landscape trailer is rated for 7,000lbs.

I made sure the 2" ball on my truck meets the 7,000lb weight requirement as well.

Mine has brakes on both axles as well.

My 2" bull dog hitches at work are rated for 7,000lbs as well.

 

[Fxfymn413]

I switched all my trailers over to junction boxes with a one piece molded connector. Way less problems compared to the replaceable end 7pin connectors.

I had replaced the pigtail on my 32 foot hydraulic dovetail trailer with this style plug. On a recent trip I lost all trailer brakes because the cheap plug's connectors became so loose that it allowed the plug to "tip" enough to disconnect the brake control wire.

The moral..Buy a name brand high quality pigtail to begin with.

I had the trailer brakes come on fully while doing 60 MPH on the interstate because of a defective transmission control unit which controls the built in trailer brake controller on my Chevy 3500 HD. It made for an interesting few seconds and I had to disconnect the trailer brakes and drive home without them.

I own four trailers and they are all a PIA to maintain, but I can't do without them.

 

[EmeraldCity]

I own four trailers and they are all a PIA to maintain, but I can't do without them.

I have found this so true! I have kept my 2001 GMC 2500hd 4x4 because of the Vortec 8.1 & 5-speed Allison. I just turned 200k and next to my Tundra, it's been the most reliable vehicle I've owned. But, when it comes to trailers, I've had axles freeze up, brakes lock, brakes come apart, clips break and allow a ramp to slide out, cows ate the wiring, tire blow-outs, safety brake switch malfunction, etc. Seems to always be an adventure in which I have to always be on guard.

Rich
Copperas Cove, Texas

 

[mrmikey]

I'm not sure how the person ended up with their turn signal engaging the trailer brakes though.

Colour blind maybe or just plain got screwed up with the small numbers on the back side of the plug...I can see it happening quite easily.