Trailer Brake Controller Help.

[N80]

My F-150 has a basic 4 wire flat trailer wiring connector. I need to pull a two horse trailer that has electronic brakes. I've pulled larger loads (my tractor on a flatbed trailer with no brakes) and it does just fine but I would like take advantage of the trailer brakes on the horse trailer.

I know nothing about electronic brakes and less about wiring but it looks like most everything is already in place on the truck. There is a plug under the dash for the trailer brake controller. If the controller does not come with a "Ford" plug adapter, one came with the truck. All I'd have to do is splice the color coded wires from the Ford plug to the back of the controller.

On the back of the truck all I'd need to do is buy and install a 7 wire plug and plug it in to the existing wiring. I'll bite the bullet and buy it from Ford since it will be wired to plug right in. The Ford wiring diagram shows it and I've looked underneath and it is there.

You have to plug some sort of 'relays' into the fuse box, but these also came with the truck.

So, my questions are this:

1) How much do I need to spend on a trailer brake controller and what to look for when I buy one? It will be used infrequently and will not be pulling anything more than the two horse trailer or my tractor (well below 7000 pounds total load).

2) If I need to splice the wires from the trailer brake controller to the truck adapter harness, what type of connections do I need to use. I'd rather not spend the money on specialized crimping tools if I don't have to.

Thanks for any advice you guys can give.

P.S.: The trailer I borrow to tow my tractor (very very rarely) is old and does not have brakes of any sort. Do modern consumer level flat bed trailers have electronic brakes?

 

[kennyd]

Average price will be about $100 for the controller, Tekonsha is a good name to look for.

You can buy the wiring kit for a plug-n-play install if you don't wan to splice wires.

Most states require brakes if the load is greater than 3000lbs., sound like you are illegal and dangerous when you tow your tractor.

 

[Reg]

My F-150 has a basic 4 wire flat trailer wiring connector. I need to pull a two horse trailer that has electronic brakes. I've pulled larger loads (my tractor on a flatbed trailer with no brakes) and it does just fine but I would like take advantage of the trailer brakes on the horse trailer.

I know nothing about electronic brakes and less about wiring but it looks like most everything is already in place on the truck. There is a plug under the dash for the trailer brake controller. If the controller does not come with a "Ford" plug adapter, one came with the truck. All I'd have to do is splice the color coded wires from the Ford plug to the back of the controller.

On the back of the truck all I'd need to do is buy and install a 7 wire plug and plug it in to the existing wiring. I'll bite the bullet and buy it from Ford since it will be wired to plug right in. The Ford wiring diagram shows it and I've looked underneath and it is there.

You have to plug some sort of 'relays' into the fuse box, but these also came with the truck.

So, my questions are this:

1) How much do I need to spend on a trailer brake controller and what to look for when I buy one? It will be used infrequently and will not be pulling anything more than the two horse trailer or my tractor (well below 7000 pounds total load).

2) If I need to splice the wires from the trailer brake controller to the truck adapter harness, what type of connections do I need to use. I'd rather not spend the money on specialized crimping tools if I don't have to.

Thanks for any advice you guys can give.

P.S.: The trailer I borrow to tow my tractor (very very rarely) is old and does not have brakes of any sort. Do modern consumer level flat bed trailers have electronic brakes?

I suggest you visit e-trailer.com and see if there is a plug and play wiring connector to get you to a 7 pin outlet.
These generally just plug into the rear light wiring by unplugging a connector and plugging the bit you buy between the plug and socket you just disconnected.
There might be a factory part available too, that requires chat with the parts counter guy, ask what wiring there is for the truck WITH the trailer tow package.
Gee, I don't know what year your truck is, or I could do all this for you.

Then the brake controller itself; Tekonsha is a very popular brand and I would guess they are up around $130 now.
You will need a wiring pigtail to connect it to the panel that is either by your left foot or somewhere under the dash, usually on the left of the steering column.

BTW, electric brakes SUCK !
Sorry, but they just DO !
Better than nothing and for ANY horse trailer you NEED them.

 

[mrennie]

Hi George:

First thing, the brakes are electric, not electronic, although the brake controller is electronic

You should be able to get a decent controller for around $100-125. I bought a new Tekonsha Voyageur controller new on eBay about 4 years ago for $50 and they were worth $120 at the time so deals are out there.

Controllers are rated for 1, 2, or more axles, so you need to consider how many axles on your trailer have brakes and buy a controller that can handle that many brakes.

If you have a factory harness that connects to the brake controller and just plugs into the truck's wiring, the best way to connect this harness to the brake controller would be to solder the wires and cover with heat shrink tubing. I suppose blue crimp connectors would work OK (and I am sure thousands of people do it this way) but considering the importance of trailer brakes I prefer to solder the wires.

Michael

 

[Steve C]

My F-150 has a basic 4 wire flat trailer wiring connector. I need to pull a two horse trailer that has electronic brakes. I've pulled larger loads (my tractor on a flatbed trailer with no brakes) and it does just fine but I would like take advantage of the trailer brakes on the horse trailer.

I know nothing about electronic brakes and less about wiring but it looks like most everything is already in place on the truck. There is a plug under the dash for the trailer brake controller. If the controller does not come with a "Ford" plug adapter, one came with the truck. All I'd have to do is splice the color coded wires from the Ford plug to the back of the controller.

On the back of the truck all I'd need to do is buy and install a 7 wire plug and plug it in to the existing wiring. I'll bite the bullet and buy it from Ford since it will be wired to plug right in. The Ford wiring diagram shows it and I've looked underneath and it is there.

You have to plug some sort of 'relays' into the fuse box, but these also came with the truck.

So, my questions are this:

1) How much do I need to spend on a trailer brake controller and what to look for when I buy one? It will be used infrequently and will not be pulling anything more than the two horse trailer or my tractor (well below 7000 pounds total load).

2) If I need to splice the wires from the trailer brake controller to the truck adapter harness, what type of connections do I need to use. I'd rather not spend the money on specialized crimping tools if I don't have to.

Thanks for any advice you guys can give.

P.S.: The trailer I borrow to tow my tractor (very very rarely) is old and does not have brakes of any sort. Do modern consumer level flat bed trailers have electronic brakes?

Any RV service department can help you. Ask them for a price for a complete installed controler and rear plug and with the 7 to 4 pin adapter plug for when you want to tow a trailer with the flat 4 connectors.

I think the last controler I bought was about $60. I installed it myself in about an hour. I have had 4 or five of them over the years and they all worked pretty good. Wal-Mart even sells them.

 

[N80]

Thanks guys.

As for illegal and dangerous. I don't know. Pretty sure it isn't illegal. You don't even have to have tags here. As for dangerous, maybe, but if so, there's a lot of dangerous going on around here. Not saying its okay, just common.

Anyway, you guys are right, most of the brands I looked at make an adapter harness from the controller to the truck for around $15. For me, its worth buying the harness and avoiding my own wiring job.

Electric vs electronic? Now you know how much I know about electramaticity.

I don't know why electric brakes stink, but I'm assuming they're better than nothing. All of the bumper pull two horse trailers I have access to have them. What is better? The inertial types? I've pulled those too, but they were flat beds not horse trailers. I don't own this horse trailer. If I were to buy one is there an alternative to electric brakes?

One of the things I noticed in the units around $100 is that they are self leveling, which sounds like it would be worth it compared to cheaper ones and me trying to get one level under the dash.

The other thing I'm not sure about is that some say 'proportional' and some say 'timed'. Not sure what that means.

Thanks again for all the help guys!

 

[tommu56]

Wire nuts will work to connect the larger wires make sure you put them on tight and tape them so if they loosen they will not come off, and a scotch lock for the brake switch tap.

I do prefer crimps but wire nuts will work.

go to this page it has a good sketch.

Trailer Brake Controller Information

and truck wiring

tom

 

[JoelD]

I have a timed controller.

I press on the brake and then after a brief delay the brakes are applied until they hit the setting I have set. I can set from little brake to a lot of brake.

I would not recommend the timed for someone who's not proficient at driving with a trailer and familiar with adjusting or manually applying more brake when needed.

I works for me as I rarely tow and when I do I'm in no rush to get to where I'm going.

Proportional would mean to me, the more brake you apply at the truck the more brake is applied to the trailer.

I'm not sure if there is a mercury switch or what to detect braking force from the truck end, not sure if there is some sort of pendulum or what, maybe a gyro of some type, I know it must have something to do with the self leveling thing.

In the old days, my dad's van had a controller that attached to the brake pedal it's self, the harder you pressed the brake pedal the more brake to the trailer. I remember the handle moving as he'd hit the brakes.

I can see the advantage to the hydraulic brakes with the actuator on the tongue of the trailer, fully self contained, proportional to your truck's braking etc.

One thing I do remember about my dad's set up was he could use just trailer brakes and no truck brakes. I can do the same with my timed controller and I bet the new proportional also let you do it. He got cut off my a woman one day and she hooked our bumper and was pulling us off the road, he hit the trailer brakes and stopped the entire train from the back with no chance of jacknife.

You'd not be able to apply just the trailer brakes with the hydraulic tongue actuator type, at least I don't think you can.

Joel

 

[Diamondpilot]

I buy and sell boats for a side job and take care of the issues you mentioned on a monthly basis. You have the wiring part figured out. As for the controller for as little as you tow just get a $50 unit at WalMart. They all do the same thing but more $$$$ equals more features and the only one I have used and installed that is greatly better than a entry level one is going to cost you $400. Yes the Prodigy is good but for a guy who will tow just a few times a year the $50 unit does everything you need an will handle upto 3 axle trailers.

Here is a great company to buy from. Best prices around, good people, and the help section has step by step for most trucks with photo's

R and P Carriages Trailer Sales, Service, Parts and Rentals

Here is also a guide I use for my customers. It has all the states laws.

http://www.boatus.com/trailerclub/laws.asp

Here is another but harder to read but printable.

http://www.towingworld.com/articles/TowingLaws.htm

In your state of SC any trailer over 3000# GVWR must have trailer brakes. Many think this means on all axles but I have spoken to many manufactures and most states do not state. So you can have a tandem with just brakes on one axle.

Chris

 

[N80]

Thanks guys. Excellent help. I pull my tractor only very rarely. Once every couple of years. But, there is the possibility that I'll be pulling the horse trailer once a month and the Prodigy comes with the Ford adapter harness for $113. The Hopkins is about $115 with the adapter. I'll go to TSC or Walmart and see what they have too.

You guys are great.

Good to know the state law too.

 

[Samandothers]

I have a unit that wires into the under dash harness. There is a piece that looks like a CB microphone (showing some age here) that I lay on the console and it has a light coiled cable, like a telephone cord, with a plug on the end that plugs in the under dash unit. When I am pulling I plug it in and when I am not pulling I can unplug and place in the glove box or center console. It keeps me from having a unit mounted under the dash or on the dash. Food for thought.

 

[Willl]

What year Ford ?

etrailer.com - Brake Controller - Helpful Video Reviews and Installation How To Articles

 

[RobertN]

1st, I would look at one of the better controllers. I have an older Tekonsha Sentinel. It works well, but if I were buyin one now, I would go witha Prodigy. Well known, works well

2nd, I would not skimp anything when hauling horses. Get a good controller. The tractor is chained down, the horses are not. A live load is different than hauling a static load. I would rather be over equipped with a live load.

Are you sure your truck is pre wired? If so, it is an hour job or less to install everything. My previous('89 F250) Ford was not; took an afternoon to do a clean installation from scratch.

I would solder and heat shrink the connections. Butt splices connectors are ok. Wire nuts are for house wiring.

I had the brakes fail on a borrowed trailer; it was not well kept, and had a wire break. My Kubota is about 2250lbs soaking wet. I had someone cut me off bad on the freeway; I controlled the stop, but barely. Even a lite load behind my 3/4 ton pushed around pretty good. Get working brakes on the tractor trailer too ....

 

[brandoro]

I have the Prodigy controller on my current truck. Way better than the previous one, nice smooth stops, lots of adjustability to compensate for towed weight and speed of application. Once it is set up for what you are towing you can hardly tell it's there. With the old controller I had it happen a couple of times that it was knocked off level and slammed the brakes on unexpectedly during what I thought would be a nice gentle stop. The prodigy doesn't need to be level, makes for a lot more mounting options too.
Not the cheapest controller but what you are trying to stop doesn't sound cheap either.
Doesn't make a difference where you are but here any trailer over 3000lbs rating, even if it's empty, must have brakes on all axles/wheels.

 

[N80]

Robert, the truck is definitely prewired. I have found the plug in the dash for the brake controller, so with the proper harness it will be plug-and-play. I have the two relays for the fuse box. There is a harness/plug near the rear bumper for the 7 pin connector. It looks like all I will need to do is unplug the 4 pin connector and harness and plug in and ground the 7 pin. Ford shows a prewired 7 pin/ 4 pin combo that plugs right in. If I can get that unit from the dealer I will be set, no splicing required.

The problem will be that the dealership is probably going to want a ton of money for that prewired 7 pin connector. It will probably be worth it. eTrailer shows a similar prewired unit for $60, but its picture does not look the same as the prewired oem Ford unit. I bet Frod will want $100 for theirs.

The horse trailer is in good shape and well maintained. Don't know if it has brakes on both axles or not. I will check. It isn't mine, it belongs to the trainer/coach. If she pulls the horse to the show with her truck, we pay a fee. If I pull it, no fee at all, not even for use of the trailer. So even if all this sets me back $200 I can make it up in 4 to 6 trips.

The flat bed is another story. Also not mine. Hope not to need it again soon. Can always rent a 16 foot trailer with inertial brakes for about $70 a day at Sunbelt. I've done that a number of times.

 

[Reg]

Robert, the truck is definitely prewired. I have found the plug in the dash for the brake controller, so with the proper harness it will be plug-and-play. I have the two relays for the fuse box. There is a harness/plug near the rear bumper for the 7 pin connector. It looks like all I will need to do is unplug the 4 pin connector and harness and plug in and ground the 7 pin. Ford shows a prewired 7 pin/ 4 pin combo that plugs right in. If I can get that unit from the dealer I will be set, no splicing required.

The problem will be that the dealership is probably going to want a ton of money for that prewired 7 pin connector. It will probably be worth it. eTrailer shows a similar prewired unit for $60, but its picture does not look the same as the prewired oem Ford unit. I bet Frod will want $100 for theirs.

The horse trailer is in good shape and well maintained. Don't know if it has brakes on both axles or not. I will check. It isn't mine, it belongs to the trainer/coach. If she pulls the horse to the show with her truck, we pay a fee. If I pull it, no fee at all, not even for use of the trailer. So even if all this sets me back $200 I can make it up in 4 to 6 trips.

The flat bed is another story. Also not mine. Hope not to need it again soon. Can always rent a 16 foot trailer with inertial brakes for about $70 a day at Sunbelt. I've done that a number of times.

I'm not sure of the EXACT timeline, but my guess is that any horse trailer built in the last 20 years or so has brakes on both axles.
MOST are rated at 5,000 lbs or more and the typical 2 horse tag along weights about 3,000 lbs. Two horses at 800 to 1400 each plus tack, hay, water, etc., adds up.

There ARE better alternatives to electric drum brakes, e.g. my 4-star horse trailer has electric over hydraulic, but they are still DRUMS.
I have priced a disk upgrade for the next time the brakes need replacement and it is a minor cost compared to linings and possible drum turnings or replacements.
After that disk pads every time and no need to pull things apart to inspect linings, no need for manual adjustments, etc, altogether BETTER brakes to boot.

By design electric brakes are kinda crummy.
The force with which they are applied relies on the extent to which an electro magnet "clings" to the drum as it rotates.
That force depends on the current through the magnet, which derives from the voltage offered to it by the brake controller.
The magnet continually rubs against the surface of the drum as the brakes are applied, i.e. it is a wear surface.

 

[KeithInSpace]

I think you're harness/truck is similar to my '05 Expedition.

I would stay away from a "timed" system and rely on a nice, modern, digital-proportional accellerometer-based controller. They're not very expensive and give you a very "natural" feel. I can honestly stay that when using my Tekonsha P3 controller, I can hardly tell I have a trailer attached upon braking no matter what the load. Utility trailer or RV. Of course, accelerating is another matter...

I have wire-nuts and haven't bothered to replace them. I'd like to solder, but haven't gotten around to it. Going on 3 years, now.

Be careful when you connect your harness...it is NOT color-to-color between the pig-tails. I don't recall what the combination is (I could look under my dash), but you need to look at the FUNCTION for each of the wires. While black may go to black (obvious), red didn't go to red...red went to blue and the other blue went to pink...it was counter-intuitive, but as I said, if you look at the function of each wire (light this, brake that, power in, ground), it's easy to get it right.

If you have any problems, PM me and I'll see what combination I have under my dash. You'll owe me a beer, though.

 

[mbrule]

Thanks guys.


The other thing I'm not sure about is that some say 'proportional' and some say 'timed'. Not sure what that means.

GET A PROPORTIONAL CONTROLLER!!! Once properly connected and adjusted (set level, and output current) they work just fine. Easy to connect and adjust. I have a Tekonsha that I have had for years and used it on multiple trailers and trucks towing as little as an unloaded car trailer about 1700 lbs, to as much as 5 ton.

My brother recently bought a timed controller, and it sucks, and I would not want to rely on it in a panic stop.

A timed controller works as described above after you step on the brake at some set time the brakes are applied and current increases as long as you are on the brake. A proportional controller applies the brakes based on inertia and how hard you are stopping, my older model is based on a pendulum newer models may be electronic?

I have also towed with surge brakes as well and they do a lot of thrashing and banging.

My .02

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks guys. Excellent help. I pull my tractor only very rarely. Once every couple of years. But, there is the possibility that I'll be pulling the horse trailer once a month and the Prodigy comes with the Ford adapter harness for $113. The Hopkins is about $115 with the adapter. I'll go to TSC or Walmart and see what they have too.

You guys are great.

Good to know the state law too.

I got ahoppy controller for 55$ and a pigtail for my 5250 for another 15 at walmart or tsc.. I but spliced it together and it works fine. the 55$ one is the one with only led's on it.. but surprisingly enough, the board inside the case is the same board on their 99$ model that has a segmented led display.. IE.. same electronics.. just saved money on user interface. both work as good as the drawtight activator I have in 2 other trucks which cost a lil more money. On my 98 dodge i did al the wireing and it was a 15 minute job.. you should be fine.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

I'm not sure of the EXACT timeline, but my guess is that any horse trailer built in the last 20 years or so has brakes on both axles.
.

It's a per state thing.. I know trailers under 10k only had to have a single brake axle as little as 10ys ago in florida.. and break away kits were just becoming mandatory around then as well.

my 00 ponderosa 2 horse bumper pull is a 7kw unit, 2 3500# axles, ( dexter ) and one has barkes.. and no break away kit from the factory similar flatbed I have does have the kit, but still only one brake axle.. both were legal in florida when sold..

soundguy