Tractor Chains---Off the Wall Question

   / Tractor Chains---Off the Wall Question #1  

bookman51

Bronze Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2017
Messages
54
Location
Kearney
Tractor
Farmall 340
I put a front blade on my Farmall 340 tractor with a loader. It works okay pushing snow when I leave the land plane on the rear for weight. I checked in to tire chains and for 13.6 x 36 tires they run from $600 plus tax for simple ladder chains to over $1,000 for the more sophisiticated chains. I clear about 3/8 mile of road that is hilly. I wonder if something would work for the occasion slick spots like emergency automobile chains. That is, just four to six links of chains across the tires and held on by bunge cords. Seems like it would be cheaper and easier to install than a full set up tire chains---but of course, not as effective,---if they would work at all. Any one have any experience with frabricating and using something like this on a tractor? I have chains on my ATV and they work great. I also have a 420 John Deere crawler I can use if snow is really bad, but the blade is not as wide as the 340 blade. So, I am looking for something that is a cheap alternative for occasional use. Thanks in advance
 
   / Tractor Chains---Off the Wall Question #2  
I rely on my chains for traction both going and stopping, I buy the expensive ones that work.
 
   / Tractor Chains---Off the Wall Question #3  
can you drill in some studs into your rear tire bars? Not as good as chains, but pretty damn good

Here they are on the front of a New Holland snow blowing tractor.

I would think they would be dirt cheap and see no reason why they wouldn’t be fine all year round.

1676601678401.jpeg
 
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   / Tractor Chains---Off the Wall Question #4  
I agree with LouKY. It really depends on the hill and the ice you get. I had ladder chains on my Ford backhoe and it would not climb my driveway. Then I converted them into skidder chains, using grade 8 bolts and extra links. I have a few $ hundred in bolts, but now they work excellent and were still far cheaper than buying even used skidder chains. As far as using a dozer, my father has a JD 450E and used to have a JD 750B, they would both push a mountain of snow, if it was flat. Once on a icy hill, forget it. Quick sail to the bottom.
 
   / Tractor Chains---Off the Wall Question #5  
I have one valley in my driveway. It is NOT a place where I would want to go off the edge on either side. Otherwise my mile long gravel driveway is straight as an arrow - flat as a pool table. The snow melt from a very large field drains down one side of the valley and ice up on the driveway. When I had my Ford 1700 - I would chain up - all four wheels - when conditions got really bad. I had HD tractor chains. Back in 1983 the chains cost - $675 for both sets. They were V-bar ladder chains. They were a purple bi**h to install - mainly because they were so heavy. However - once installed, the little 1700 could climb right up the side of a building.

I now have the Kubota M6040. It weighs 10,100# and has very little problems with the icing side of the driveway in the valley. If I would ever need chains for the Kubota - I would get those Euro type chains - all four wheels.

Slipping around on ice is not a fun thing.

Weight is your friend when using ground engagement implements.

One caveat - this winter will be the fourth winter - in a row - I've not had to plow snow on my driveway.
 
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   / Tractor Chains---Off the Wall Question #6  
can you drill in some studs into your rear tire bars? Not as good as chains, but pretty damn good

Here they are on the front of a New Holland snow blowing tractor.

I would think they would be dirt cheap and see no reason why they wouldn’t be fine all year round.

View attachment 784288
Hay I run studs, they're about a buck each and add up quickly. I do leave them in a even "moved" them to replacement tires so they're very durable.
From zooming in I'd guess that the owner of that NH removed the studs from the center location and reinstalled them to the outer portion of the bars. Removing them does leave a little pocket unsuitable for reinstallation. I learned this after doing the same.
Nothing is in the same league as chains but anything is better than just tires on ice.
They're un noticable on the road.👍
20230205_151141.jpg
 
   / Tractor Chains---Off the Wall Question #7  
Hay I run studs, they're about a buck each and add up quickly. I do leave them in a even "moved" them to replacement tires so they're very durable.
From zooming in I'd guess that the owner of that NH removed the studs from the center location and reinstalled them to the outer portion of the bars. Removing them does leave a little pocket unsuitable for reinstallation. I learned this after doing the same.
Nothing is in the same league as chains but anything is better than just tires on ice.
They're un noticable on the road.👍View attachment 784305

Good to know. I’m thinking about buying that New Holland T6050, but I’m not real impressed with it’s tests and its a “Delta”, so it’s stripped of creature comforts. Tires worn down, too.

Nice Kubby! Is that a Dual Speed? Impressive cab structure. I had one and liked it.
 
   / Tractor Chains---Off the Wall Question #8  
"Creature comforts" 😆
Don't look to closely at my picture. That's a Acme hillbilly model cab for woods use.
12 sp hyd shuttle.
 
   / Tractor Chains---Off the Wall Question #9  
Why not just add more weight in a conventional manner: stone box, 55gal drum with scrap iron. you know, something less permanent that won't tear up the driveway or garage ? Do you need studs for Summer, Fall, Spring ? $600 buys a LOT of suitcase weights that can hang off a 3pt weight bar. Plus, you might need a few for the front if you don't want to use L/R brake pedals for steering correction.
 
 
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