Tractor Chains---Off the Wall Question

[Rustyiron]

My experience is that no matter how hard you press rubber into ice (adding weight) it doesn't gain much if any traction.

 

[Rustyiron]

Seems like a see a snow blower & a pusher off in the distance, too !

Yes, I grew up snow deprived in the mid Atlantic area. I like snow and the associated toys.
I don't have enough tractor for that blower without the creeper gears and the pusher is for the SS.

 

[fishhead]

Bookman,
I highly recommend the eurostyle chains vs studding or ladder- they are much smoother, provide great traction and seem to wear really well even on my paved drive. I did not see you mention whether your drive is paved but in my experience with ladder chains you can get a grip then slip then grip thing going which wears the chains and drive and hurts stopping and starting. On gravel you can use v grips but they can do a number on other surfaces. Studs which we swear by for Vehicles and bicycles here work well but wouldn't give quite the same traction on packed snow, and can't really be installed and removed in the same holes. In the summer i would not want to be running studs over pavement when the asphalt is warm and weak.

When I bought my set of OFA chains I contacted Windy Ridge equipment in NH as suggested in a thread on here, I found they were less than half the cost of the other euro style chains and have been really happy with them.

If you do get chains make sure you check on the drive on method of mounting- makes things a lot easier

 

[Rustyiron]

I may have suggested Windy Ridge, they're my chain and stud place.
I bought the pieces to make my 4 link (spacing) into 2 link for my SS chains. Much more effective and comfortable with the unforgiving 14 ply tires. They're a good chainsaw shop also.

 

[bookman51]

Why not just add more weight in a conventional manner: stone box, 55gal drum with scrap iron. you know, something less permanent that won't tear up the driveway or garage ? Do you need studs for Summer, Fall, Spring ? $600 buys a LOT of suitcase weights that can hang off a 3pt weight bar. Plus, you might need a few for the front if you don't want to use L/R brake pedals for steering correction.

I put my land plane back on and that helped a lot. Thanks

 

[bookman51]

Bookman,
I highly recommend the eurostyle chains vs studding or ladder- they are much smoother, provide great traction and seem to wear really well even on my paved drive. I did not see you mention whether your drive is paved but in my experience with ladder chains you can get a grip then slip then grip thing going which wears the chains and drive and hurts stopping and starting. On gravel you can use v grips but they can do a number on other surfaces. Studs which we swear by for Vehicles and bicycles here work well but wouldn't give quite the same traction on packed snow, and can't really be installed and removed in the same holes. In the summer i would not want to be running studs over pavement when the asphalt is warm and weak.

When I bought my set of OFA chains I contacted Windy Ridge equipment in NH as suggested in a thread on here, I found they were less than half the cost of the other euro style chains and have been really happy with them.

If you do get chains make sure you check on the drive on method of mounting- makes things a lot easier

Thanks, It is an entirely gravel/crushed rock road. Thanks for the information about the ladder chains and Windy Ridge equipment.

 

[Hay Dude]

My experience is that no matter how hard you press rubber into ice (adding weight) it doesn't gain much if any traction.

In fact, weight can mean more trouble on slick ice. If the back is real heavy, it’ll swing around on ya and you’ll be looking up the hill from the bottom! My have to change your underwear!

Studs are a nice option for those who don’t want to do chains on/chains off

 

[bookman51]

I agree with LouKY. It really depends on the hill and the ice you get. I had ladder chains on my Ford backhoe and it would not climb my driveway. Then I converted them into skidder chains, using grade 8 bolts and extra links. I have a few $ hundred in bolts, but now they work excellent and were still far cheaper than buying even used skidder chains. As far as using a dozer, my father has a JD 450E and used to have a JD 750B, they would both push a mountain of snow, if it was flat. Once on a icy hill, forget it. Quick sail to the bottom.

We usually do not get that much ice here in central Nebraska, but we do get icy spots. Thanks

 

[bookman51]

I may have suggested Windy Ridge, they're my chain and stud place.
I bought the pieces to make my 4 link (spacing) into 2 link for my SS chains. Much more effective and comfortable with the unforgiving 14 ply tires. They're a good chainsaw shop also.

Thanks, I have sent them an e-mail.

 

[IndyIan]

I whack in a bunch of sheet metal hex head screws with drill, if the driveway gets covered with freezing rain or if I let a bunch of small snowfalls pack down and it goes to ice. Search my posts back to 2012-13 and you'll see what I use. They stay in if your not doing donuts and must be hardened a little as they don't really seem to wear, even one I forgot to take out and left in all summer. I seem to need them every 2 or 3 years. I wouldn't use them in the woods as spinning and gripping a root would probably rip them out, but ice is pretty soft really comparted to steel and they give you some reasonable grip on an inclined sheet of ice for a couple dozen dollars.