Tractor age, value, finding the right tractor and deciding what's a good deal

[jeff9366]

Here are pre-owned tractors for sale within 200 miles of Zip Code 26330:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/Heavy-Equi...c=1&_salic=1&_sop=10&_dmd=1&_ipg=200&_fosrp=1

I'd prefer to stay under $15,000 for a tractor.

Here is a pre-Tier IV Kubota 'Grand L'.

KUBOTA L354 HST 4X4 COMPACT TRACTOR /LOADER 37HP QUICK ATTACH LOW COST SHIPPING | eBay

TractorData.com Kubota L354 tractor information

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/search.php?searchid=5144139



Here is a heavier pre-Tier IV Kubota 'Grand L'.

211 Kubota L524 4x4 Hydro Compact Tractor w/ Loader Only 16 Hours! | eBay

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/8/3/1837-kubota-l5240.html

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/search.php?searchid=5144143




I am not particularly partisan toward Kubota but the last two new tractors I have purchased have been Kubotas so I am familiar with Kubota's models.




The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to identify potential tractor applications first, then determine bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications.

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

For the applications you have outlined and considering you will operate on hills, I suggest a minimum bare tractor weight of 3,300 pounds and up to 5,000 pounds, bare tractor weight.

The Kubota Grand Ls have the advantage of both R1/ag rear wheels tires and R4/industrial rear wheels tires being adjustable for spread, to increase tractor stability on hills.

 

[JDAOWNER]

I SHOPED FOR A LONG TIME FOR A TIER 3 TRACTOR--DIDN'T WANT TO DEAL WITH THE NEW EMISSIONS. FOUND A 2011 KIOTI 41 HP WITH FEL FOR 13500---400HRS---LOV IT.

 

[Gus3120]

I was in the same situation as you after we bought our little piece of wild wonderful WV. It is mountain ground with a 1/2 mile drive that needs maintained and trails throughout. I figured I needed4x4,roughly 30hp, under 1000hrs, weight around 3k and strong hydraulics and I also wanted to stay under $15k. I can tell you tractors of any color with that criteria are hard to find and seem to hold their value. My advise is to watch craigslist and tractorhouse to get an idea of what tractors are goin for. After finding one that suits you be sure to look it over really good to see if it's been maintained and not abused. Check oil and air filter, all pins and also get it really warmed up running it thru all ranges/gears, raising/lowering and curling the bucket along the way. Do your research while you are searching so you know roughly what you are looking for. Your tractor is out there it may just take a little time and patience. Good luck!

 

[nards444]

Like others said you might be asking one tractor to do to many things, or is going to cost you to much in implements/maint and repair. If this is going to be a part time thing maybe look for a newer used compact tractor like the 30s range. Im looking at kubota, JD, Kiotis new right now along with TYM. Thing with TYM by all accounts you get a good tractor for a good price, very few used ones on the market.

 

[CaptainRedbeard]

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to identify potential tractor applications first, then determine bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications.

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

For the applications you have outlined and considering you will operate on hills, I suggest a minimum bare tractor weight of 3,300 pounds and up to 5,000 pounds, bare tractor weight.

The Kubota Grand Ls have the advantage of both R1/ag rear wheels tires and R4/industrial rear wheels tires being adjustable for spread, to increase tractor stability on hills.

Thanks for the links and detail. I had actually already looked at those two tractors you linked. Your perspective is appreciated; I understand that weight is important, but it is hard to grasp how important without practical experience. All of my experience is with heavier 80's model fords on the two family farms. I'll take your recommendation into consideration when I'm narrowing down models I want to concentrate on.

I was in the same situation as you after we bought our little piece of wild wonderful WV. It is mountain ground with a 1/2 mile drive that needs maintained and trails throughout. I figured I needed4x4,roughly 30hp, under 1000hrs, weight around 3k and strong hydraulics and I also wanted to stay under $15k. I can tell you tractors of any color with that criteria are hard to find and seem to hold their value. My advise is to watch craigslist and tractorhouse to get an idea of what tractors are goin for. After finding one that suits you be sure to look it over really good to see if it's been maintained and not abused. Check oil and air filter, all pins and also get it really warmed up running it thru all ranges/gears, raising/lowering and curling the bucket along the way. Do your research while you are searching so you know roughly what you are looking for. Your tractor is out there it may just take a little time and patience. Good luck!

Isn't that the truth? All the tractors in the "just enough HP but not too big" range seem to hold a ridiculous value on the market...sometimes just a couple thousand off their price new. I see lots of tractors between 40-50 hp that were traded in when the their tread starting nearing 20%. Paying $18k for a tractor with 1800 hours and needing tires doesn't seem appealing...

But I'm sure something will come along. I'll just need to take things more seriously at some point so I can pounce on a deal when it shows up.

Like others said you might be asking one tractor to do to many things, or is going to cost you to much in implements/maint and repair. If this is going to be a part time thing maybe look for a newer used compact tractor like the 30s range. Im looking at kubota, JD, Kiotis new right now along with TYM. Thing with TYM by all accounts you get a good tractor for a good price, very few used ones on the market.

I hadn't even heard of TYM, to be honest. There is a TYM/Branson dealer about an hour away from me. I've heard to "stay away from Korean tractors", but I think thats pretty anecdotal from old-school farmers. Maybe I'll check them out. Looks like TYM is doing a free FEL deal right now.

 

[fried1765]

Thanks for the links and detail. I had actually already looked at those two tractors you linked. Your perspective is appreciated; I understand that weight is important, but it is hard to grasp how important without practical experience. All of my experience is with heavier 80's model fords on the two family farms. I'll take your recommendation into consideration when I'm narrowing down models I want to concentrate on.





Isn't that the truth? All the tractors in the "just enough HP but not too big" range seem to hold a ridiculous value on the market...sometimes just a couple thousand off their price new. I see lots of tractors between 40-50 hp that were traded in when the their tread starting nearing 20%. Paying $18k for a tractor with 1800 hours and needing tires doesn't seem appealing...

But I'm sure something will come along. I'll just need to take things more seriously at some point so I can pounce on a deal when it shows up.




I hadn't even heard of TYM, to be honest. There is a TYM/Branson dealer about an hour away from me. I've heard to "stay away from Korean tractors", but I think thats pretty anecdotal from old-school farmers. Maybe I'll check them out. Looks like TYM is doing a free FEL deal right now.

If you were to:
"stay away from all Korean tractors"........ in this day and age, you would likely be staying away from a large percentage, of all new CUT/SCUT tractors on the market.

It seems like TYM may be the best tractor bang for the buck (RK tractors are built by TYM also, and you should have an RK dealer within comfortable driving distance).

 

[nards444]

Thanks for the links and detail. I had actually already looked at those two tractors you linked. Your perspective is appreciated; I understand that weight is important, but it is hard to grasp how important without practical experience. All of my experience is with heavier 80's model fords on the two family farms. I'll take your recommendation into consideration when I'm narrowing down models I want to concentrate on.





Isn't that the truth? All the tractors in the "just enough HP but not too big" range seem to hold a ridiculous value on the market...sometimes just a couple thousand off their price new. I see lots of tractors between 40-50 hp that were traded in when the their tread starting nearing 20%. Paying $18k for a tractor with 1800 hours and needing tires doesn't seem appealing...

But I'm sure something will come along. I'll just need to take things more seriously at some point so I can pounce on a deal when it shows up.




I hadn't even heard of TYM, to be honest. There is a TYM/Branson dealer about an hour away from me. I've heard to "stay away from Korean tractors", but I think thats pretty anecdotal from old-school farmers. Maybe I'll check them out. Looks like TYM is doing a free FEL deal right now.

Yeah the stay away from korean thing is just an old timers thing. Reality is most of the tractors out there have korean/chinese parts.

From my research you can get a TYM 25hp cab and loader for around 14ish, a 39 horse cab and loader for about 24k. Branson is TYM. Ive kind of came to the conclusion that some of these brands are just to much money, specially for my sporadic use. I can get a TYM new for cheaper than 10 year old tractors in other brands, makes sense to me.

 

[CaptainRedbeard]

If people dont mind me continuing to throw some random inquiries out there.
This is a bit out of my search area, but it seems like the best deal for a newer tractor I致e seen in under 500 miles. Does that sound right? Would you lean toward a deal like this, or would you feel more comfortable spending the extra cash for a new tractor (that would come with a warranty, etc)?

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/32093787/2013-case-ih-farmall-55a

 

[newbury]

You might want to
check out this:

If any of you have read my ramblings you know I follow auctions of tractor related stuff in my areas.
I bought my Kubota M4700 from a Leesburg auction at a price many considered a steal.
Well now they are auctioning off 4 Kubotas.
Public Surplus: Auction #2311193 a 2006 Kubota M5040 4x4 Diesel Tractor with 1700 hours

Public Surplus: Auction #231113 a Kubota M9000 4x4 Diesel Tractor showing 1316 hours

Public Surplus: Auction #231125 a 2006 Kubota M9540 4x4 Diesel Tractor 1385 hours

and what I want, but SWMBO said "NO MORE"

Public Surplus: Auction #2311186 a 2006 Kubota L48 4x4 Diesel Tractor with ONLY 441 hours

The auctions end in 8 days but it's well worth your time and money if you can comply with their rules (pay and pickup in 5 days is one of the main things)

/edit - the main reason I'm still looking is for attachments, but I don't think I can convince my wife an L48 is an attachment for my M4700

 

[CaptainRedbeard]

Thanks for the heads up. My brother lives half an hour from Leesburg...wonder what price the 9000 will end up at.