dodge man
Super Star Member
A mid mount Kubota doesn’t cost $25k. Depending on what tractor you get a tractor with a mid mount and end loader cost $25k.
My 2cents:
I would get the Kubota with the bagger and blower. Money well spent for what you’re needing in my opinion. I mow most of my lawn with a JD X320 w/ 48” deck and powerflo bagging setup and I love not having to rake. I use my Kubota B1250 HST with mid mounted drive on 60” belly mower for the rougher ground and my pasture to keep the thistles from blooming etc. I also use the heck out of the FEL so although I do love my JD the Kubota has paid for itself many times over.
tradosaurus
Elite Member
- Joined
- May 8, 2017
- Messages
- 3,279
- Location
- Texarkana, TX
- Tractor
- Kubota MX5400 HST, heavy duty bucket, 3rd function, R1 tires (rears filled), 2 remotes
dodge man
Super Star Member
Exactly, where did he say he wanted an L sized Kubota and a zero turn? He is pretty specific about what he wants and he already has a larger tractor. Apparently you didn’t read all of the OP’s posts?
OP
DonE0929
Member
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2013
- Messages
- 26
- Location
- N GA mountains
- Tractor
- Mahindra 1526 tlb, Satoh Beaver S370D
OP checking back in here.
Some one wanted to know how much grass we cut..... we have 26 acres, maybe 6 acres have grass or food plots that get mowed ( maybe not that much )... a couple of acres are tilled garden most of the year, but is left to do its own thing in the winter.... gets cut and tilled in early spring. The rest of the property is heavily wooded.
Our property is not suited to a Z turn.... we needed a tuff ( not box store POS ) lawn tractor that only cuts grass or a small Tractor with MMM... might as well do a real sub compact that can do so many more things. Our property is rural and definitely there is no need for a grass catcher or any of that kind of thing you might see in the burbs.
After a revisit to kubota where i looked at a B series and got a quote for the bx2680 and deere where i only considered the 1025r, the auto connect MMM on the deer cemented my decision... a 1025r will be arriving in 2 weeks. I really thought I was going to avoid deere for a few reasons, but in the end, it was a superior machine for me and the dealership provided excellent information and has a large and well staffed service department. The immense aftermarket for the 1025r was also a contributing factor.
For those that are curious, the quote I got for the bx2680 was about 2500 less than the deere with the same add ons. Both machines were 2024 hold over models from inside the showroom, so no fading of paint or anything to get additional discounts for. I did a little more adding on to the 1025r so the final price is about 3500 more, but not apples to apples on the quote I got from Kubota.
My choice, may not be right for everyone, but for us I feel confident in my choice.
I'd again i would like to thank everyone for their contribution.
Some one wanted to know how much grass we cut..... we have 26 acres, maybe 6 acres have grass or food plots that get mowed ( maybe not that much )... a couple of acres are tilled garden most of the year, but is left to do its own thing in the winter.... gets cut and tilled in early spring. The rest of the property is heavily wooded.
Our property is not suited to a Z turn.... we needed a tuff ( not box store POS ) lawn tractor that only cuts grass or a small Tractor with MMM... might as well do a real sub compact that can do so many more things. Our property is rural and definitely there is no need for a grass catcher or any of that kind of thing you might see in the burbs.
After a revisit to kubota where i looked at a B series and got a quote for the bx2680 and deere where i only considered the 1025r, the auto connect MMM on the deer cemented my decision... a 1025r will be arriving in 2 weeks. I really thought I was going to avoid deere for a few reasons, but in the end, it was a superior machine for me and the dealership provided excellent information and has a large and well staffed service department. The immense aftermarket for the 1025r was also a contributing factor.
For those that are curious, the quote I got for the bx2680 was about 2500 less than the deere with the same add ons. Both machines were 2024 hold over models from inside the showroom, so no fading of paint or anything to get additional discounts for. I did a little more adding on to the 1025r so the final price is about 3500 more, but not apples to apples on the quote I got from Kubota.
My choice, may not be right for everyone, but for us I feel confident in my choice.
I'd again i would like to thank everyone for their contribution.
tradosaurus
Elite Member
- Joined
- May 8, 2017
- Messages
- 3,279
- Location
- Texarkana, TX
- Tractor
- Kubota MX5400 HST, heavy duty bucket, 3rd function, R1 tires (rears filled), 2 remotes
Apparently you didn't read my initial posts. Never said the OP wanted an L size Kubota and a ZT.
I think you just like to argue.
dodge man
Super Star Member
A good choice. I timed putting on my 60” auto connect on my 2025r and it was 3 minutes. It’s really important that your auto connect be setup properly. It’s very simple to do but be cautious the first couple of times. It helps to remember to put the pto in the rear only setting, this lets the splines rotate on the mid pto easier.
There is also zerks on the driveshafts that need greased, one is difficult to get at but there are some tricks that make it easier. Good luck with the new machine.
There is also zerks on the driveshafts that need greased, one is difficult to get at but there are some tricks that make it easier. Good luck with the new machine.
jeepcoma
Silver Member
Congratulations on making a decision. I think you will be happy with the 1025R as a mower. One thing I will say, from personal experience, is look at every line item in your purchase. If there is an entry for mower setup, make sure it's done properly before you take delivery. I didn't know any better, and I struggled for a while, and broke some parts, because I paid for a setup that didn't happen. But, when adjusted properly, it really is incredibly easy to both attach and detach.
Make sure they demonstrate on your exact tractor the steps for attachment and removal. Don't let them simply drop the deck in perfect conditions, back up an inch to "demonstrate" removal, and then go forward to demonstrate attachment. Have them drop it on some gravel, take it off, drive around the lot, and put it back on, exactly as you would do at home. And then you (and/or your wife!) do it, and ask questions, and make sure you are satisfied with the process.
Things you want to be looking out for and make sure they cover:
1. Install is supposed to be possible with the loader attached. There is not much room for error however; if the draft arm isn't adjusted to the right height, you can snag it on the stand for the FEL and it will break. I've done it twice before I figured it out. I think dodge man did it three times
. There is a very specific height it's supposed to be set to in order to clear below the stand but be high enough to engage the holding bracket at the front.
2. Amount of adjustment in the front draft arm (the big silver thing up front that looks like a handle) needs to be extended far enough for 2-3mm of wiggle room. If it's adjusted too tight, it's very difficult to get the locking pins on the 3-point lift arms (the black arms under the tractor that engage the rear of the deck and lift it) to engage.
3. Proper use of the height-of-cut dial, including transport/storage position, attach/detach mode (obviously needed for deck install/removal, but can be overlooked), and raising the 3-point to make adjustments.
4. How to properly adjust the anti-scalp wheels based on the height-of-cut setting.
5. Grease points and frequency of greasing. Make sure it's greased before they deliver!
6. Have them show you the blades are sharpened, balanced, and straight.
7. PTO engagement process - engage at idle, then rev up to proper RPM
8. Reverse lock-out button so you can go backward without disengaging the PTO
9. Putting the PTO selector into rear-only to make attachment easier
There's maybe a few things I'm missing, but those stand out from my (poor) dealer experience. When working properly, it's an incredibly easy deck to install and remove. The FEL single-point connection, the backhoe (not sure if you're getting one), and the MMM can all be swapped easily in literally just a few minutes - if set up properly. You're paying for setup - it's important that you get what you pay for!
(edited for clarity and some things I forgot)
Make sure they demonstrate on your exact tractor the steps for attachment and removal. Don't let them simply drop the deck in perfect conditions, back up an inch to "demonstrate" removal, and then go forward to demonstrate attachment. Have them drop it on some gravel, take it off, drive around the lot, and put it back on, exactly as you would do at home. And then you (and/or your wife!) do it, and ask questions, and make sure you are satisfied with the process.
Things you want to be looking out for and make sure they cover:
1. Install is supposed to be possible with the loader attached. There is not much room for error however; if the draft arm isn't adjusted to the right height, you can snag it on the stand for the FEL and it will break. I've done it twice before I figured it out. I think dodge man did it three times
. There is a very specific height it's supposed to be set to in order to clear below the stand but be high enough to engage the holding bracket at the front.2. Amount of adjustment in the front draft arm (the big silver thing up front that looks like a handle) needs to be extended far enough for 2-3mm of wiggle room. If it's adjusted too tight, it's very difficult to get the locking pins on the 3-point lift arms (the black arms under the tractor that engage the rear of the deck and lift it) to engage.
3. Proper use of the height-of-cut dial, including transport/storage position, attach/detach mode (obviously needed for deck install/removal, but can be overlooked), and raising the 3-point to make adjustments.
4. How to properly adjust the anti-scalp wheels based on the height-of-cut setting.
5. Grease points and frequency of greasing. Make sure it's greased before they deliver!
6. Have them show you the blades are sharpened, balanced, and straight.
7. PTO engagement process - engage at idle, then rev up to proper RPM
8. Reverse lock-out button so you can go backward without disengaging the PTO
9. Putting the PTO selector into rear-only to make attachment easier
There's maybe a few things I'm missing, but those stand out from my (poor) dealer experience. When working properly, it's an incredibly easy deck to install and remove. The FEL single-point connection, the backhoe (not sure if you're getting one), and the MMM can all be swapped easily in literally just a few minutes - if set up properly. You're paying for setup - it's important that you get what you pay for!
(edited for clarity and some things I forgot)
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dodge man
Super Star Member
Yes I have bent my front draft arm three times. In theory you should be able to take the deck off with the end loader on but I don’t. I just always take the loader off before removing the deck.
flyingace43
Member
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2015
- Messages
- 40
- Location
- Erie PA
- Tractor
- Yanmar YT347 cab, JD X370, Kawasaki Terex 800, Bandit SG40
The TYM T25 is really nice too bad the dealer is not close but it has much more bang for the buck then any of the others in that class and it is not even close. The rural king is the same tractor at about the same price but not sure how the service would be and not sure if they are nearby? Can not go wrong with the deere as parts are easy and the resale is probably better than any of the others.
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