Three point valve broken!!!

[clemsonfor]

Just buy used parts and get it back to stock!

I went and took photos but they don't reveal the monkey-motion that the vertical finger goes through. Think of a Cobra standing up, weaving forward and back in an S motion.

The rod over from the hand lever has a small-diameter rod welded to it on the lower back side and that little rod goes (loosely) through a hole in the finger. The rod coming from the left that senses the position of the 3-point arms, contacts the back side of the finger higher up. So under various conditions the lower or upper end of the finger is being pushed/pulled by one or the other. The finger floats, its not directly connected to either rod.

If something has been welded solid you would never get it back to duplicating that motion. Some engineer woke up from a stoner dream and wrote down that design! :confused2:

Here's your photo again, to help visualize what I described. My photos weren't any more useful than this. I'll note the maximum gap I saw between finger and piston was less than a spark plug gap so maybe .025. And the two nuts on the feedback rod aren't at the end like this photo, there is about a half inch of threads sticking out - same as one of the factory drawings I posted above.

Do you have a youtube account and a smart phone? You can make a video of the motion as you pull the 3 pt arm foward and back. BUT I do still agree with just buying the correct angle factory parts.

 

[California]

No youtube, and I'm not willing to host video on my personal website (from before youtube etc) for this when the problem isn't adjusting what he has. The solution is get it back to stock. Then it will work fine, as designed. The guy who welded it before he bought it messed it up irretrievably.

 

[careyo63]

Every were you point out "lube" is were I have serious Wear. There is more welding on mine than you can see. I had to give mine a lot of thought but after figuring out what was going on it was an easy fix. I can't to the day understand why all the welding. I thought the same after realizing it. Must of been the good stuff alright................:laughing:

 

[Indirocz28]

I have a ticket in to Aaron to see if they have the control handle rod and finger laying around.

My 吐ix last night has the 3 point now coming up when the handle is down, but by golly, it is freaking working. Just backwards.
It is definitely going to be hard to get the pin for that the finger rides on at the right area of the shaft to rotate correctly.

 

[duanew1]

I believe the pin on the handle shaft should be toward the rear of the tractor when the handle is down. This should make the 3 point travel in the right direction.

 

[clemsonfor]

I believe the pin on the handle shaft should be toward the rear of the tractor when the handle is down. This should make the 3 point travel in the right direction.

Your right, that's what he originally figured out that his linkages were all messed up. He noticed it was reversed of what mine is in the pic.

 

[Indirocz28]

Okay, I’ve got it pretty close. I added a friction screw to the handle since there wasn’t one previously.

I am still getting fluid back through the loader valve unfortunately. I believe I am going to need to install a diverter or check valve inline on the inlet line to the 3pt control valve.

I know California’s YM240 has the diverter valve, those of you with the loader plumbing run the same way Hoye tells you to, without a diverter valve, does your system do this when working the loader?

 

[duanew1]

Okay, I’ve got it pretty close. I added a friction screw to the handle since there wasn’t one previously.

I am still getting fluid back through the loader valve unfortunately. I believe I am going to need to install a diverter or check valve inline on the inlet line to the 3pt control valve.

I know California’s YM240 has the diverter valve, those of you with the loader plumbing run the same way Hoye tells you to, without a diverter valve, does your system do this when working the loader?

It works! You have a lot of leakage of fluid past the seals somewhere for the 3 point to drop that fast.

 

[clemsonfor]

It works! You have a lot of leakage of fluid past the seals somewhere for the 3 point to drop that fast.

That's the way these new valves work. Mine drops the same way if I turn off the tractor with it in the air. I replaced my 3pt piston O ring a few years ago. If I lock the service valve it won't drop an inch in 2 days just as he said his acts. It's all that valve and the internals. It's not as tight as the yanmar ones I guess.

 

[Indirocz28]

That's the way these new valves work. Mine drops the same way if I turn off the tractor with it in the air. I replaced my 3pt piston O ring a few years ago. If I lock the service valve it won't drop an inch in 2 days just as he said his acts. It's all that valve and the internals. It's not as tight as the yanmar ones I guess.

Being that I can’t keep the seal in this replacement one, I’m going to put the original one back on today for more testing and adjusting.

Does anyone have any insight on the 3pt moving as I am operating the loader though? Do I need to install a check valve between the loader out and the inlet to the 3pt control?

Edit: I just reinstalled the factory valve, and it’s operation is more controllable than the replacement. While the 3pt with box blade still sinks down after I turn off the tractor, the speed valve is fully vertical, and the decent after engine off is much slower than in the video I posted last night with the Hoye valve.