Indirocz28, are you sure your feedback lever is pushing your valve into the neutral position when you stop your lift lever at any raised position? Or maybe it is pushing it past the neutral position. Still seems to me your problem might be in that area.
Three point valve broken!!!
- Thread starter clemsonfor
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Indirocz28
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I am wondering this also, I want to try to play with adjusting it some tomorrow.
I just kind of need some good solid info on how it should be adjusted. I was reading a thread eon YM owners earlier where you had commented on from back in 2011, but then mysteriously the OP just stopped posting, so we don’t know if he fixed his issue or not. I believe he had 2 leaky valves from Hoye.
Indirocz28
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Been waiting all day to get on here. Seemed like the site was down for several hours today.
Was able to play with and adjust the linkages today. To no avail.
Also, figured out the HOYE 3 point valve has bad seating of the seal around the spool pin. That is why it leaks. It pulls itself out of its seat and sticks on the spool pin.
Anyway, the best way I can think of describing the issue after playing with itand adjustingthings today is that basically it seems like there is no “neutral” position.
The best I got it was to where it would stay up on its own with the box blade attached, and just barely would start on the pressure relief, but a hair forward to where you’d expect a neutral position to be, and it would just lower the 3 point.
Again, 3 point weighted or un weighted,if it is up, it produces too much pressure and causes fluid to leak out of the top spool shaft in the FEL control valve.
I used the FEL all day yesterday with the 3pt down and moved some heavy bucket loads, without a drop of fluid coming out of it. Yesterday evening and today while playing with the 3 point adjustments it was leaking pretty good.
So I feel this directly correlates with something wrong with the 3point setup.
It only leaks out of the loader valve if the 3point is up, and when it’s up, even adjusted the best I could get it, it still hits the pressure relief valve.
After adjusting things today with the original 3pt control valve on, and figuring out that the seal had come out of the Hoye valve, I re-installed the seal on the Hoye valve, and put it back on to test if it acted any different with my adjustments. The only difference is, if the speed lever on the Hoye valve is all the way vertical, the 3pt won’t come up at all with the box blade attached. It wasn’t but a couple of pushes and pulls on the control handle next to the fender before the shaft seal came out again and I had another mess of fluid.
Back on with the original.
In this video tractor is 1300-1500rpm, you can’t really hear it bypassing fluid in this video, which sucks. It definitely is enough to slightly bog the tractor down at below 1000rpm.
Again, best way I can describe it is that there is just no “neutral” I’ve had it close to, but it still goes onto pressure relief, and literally hair off of it, the 3point lowers again.
Was able to play with and adjust the linkages today. To no avail.
Also, figured out the HOYE 3 point valve has bad seating of the seal around the spool pin. That is why it leaks. It pulls itself out of its seat and sticks on the spool pin.
Anyway, the best way I can think of describing the issue after playing with itand adjustingthings today is that basically it seems like there is no “neutral” position.
The best I got it was to where it would stay up on its own with the box blade attached, and just barely would start on the pressure relief, but a hair forward to where you’d expect a neutral position to be, and it would just lower the 3 point.
Again, 3 point weighted or un weighted,if it is up, it produces too much pressure and causes fluid to leak out of the top spool shaft in the FEL control valve.
I used the FEL all day yesterday with the 3pt down and moved some heavy bucket loads, without a drop of fluid coming out of it. Yesterday evening and today while playing with the 3 point adjustments it was leaking pretty good.
So I feel this directly correlates with something wrong with the 3point setup.
It only leaks out of the loader valve if the 3point is up, and when it’s up, even adjusted the best I could get it, it still hits the pressure relief valve.
After adjusting things today with the original 3pt control valve on, and figuring out that the seal had come out of the Hoye valve, I re-installed the seal on the Hoye valve, and put it back on to test if it acted any different with my adjustments. The only difference is, if the speed lever on the Hoye valve is all the way vertical, the 3pt won’t come up at all with the box blade attached. It wasn’t but a couple of pushes and pulls on the control handle next to the fender before the shaft seal came out again and I had another mess of fluid.
Back on with the original.
In this video tractor is 1300-1500rpm, you can’t really hear it bypassing fluid in this video, which sucks. It definitely is enough to slightly bog the tractor down at below 1000rpm.
Again, best way I can describe it is that there is just no “neutral” I’ve had it close to, but it still goes onto pressure relief, and literally hair off of it, the 3point lowers again.
Indirocz28
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I took it apart yesterday also. Springs are good, check ball looked to be in good condition, no wear marks on it as I have seen in others posts about theirs, seats were good. I put it back together and operation remained the same.
Based on what I see on the Hydraulic pdf and the testing you have done it sure tends to indicate your control valve is bad. I have no other suggestions, sure has me stumped.
Control valve in neutral, relief valve holding, lift piston good and holding, no place left for fluid to go, lift should stay where set. :confused3:
Control valve in neutral, relief valve holding, lift piston good and holding, no place left for fluid to go, lift should stay where set. :confused3:
OP
clemsonfor
Super Member
I was trying tobget on all afternoon and night yesteday as well. This site will do that everynow n then. Like the server goes down and no one realizes it for HOURS!
What is strange is that the Hoye valve acts similar. That would lead one to beleive that the OE is fine...what are the chances that the bad part of the new valve is exactly the same as the old? I too agree, it sure seems like a bad valve just i cant see it with 2 different ones. You seem very good with mechanical stuff, even not knowing anything (not saying you dont) about the feedback lever or whatever with all the playing i would think you woukd of figured something out by now.
One thing i have noticed about my new valve....i dont know all the correct terms and things so i will say what makes sense to me. The new valve seems more internally loose or leaky. What i mean is that it seems even more RPM dependent than my old original one. What that means, if i set the bushhog height at 900rpm. And i run it up to say 2200 rpm the bush hog may raise up almost an inch or maybe even 2. Lower rpm and it will settle back. Now at any given speed the height does not move. I need to tighten the friction on my 3pt handle cause since i had to pull the stuck valve and fluid sprayed everywhere when the implement was up it made the lever slide down, even after cleaning spraying it off with brake clean and tightening it some it still vibrates down.
Again i am just pointing out these things. I had hoped this new valve woukd tighten it ip and the implement would hang in the air as it was cut off, why, cause you see other do it, my old one never did. And no i dont need it to. I point this out so if sone want to buy it thinking it may do that for theirs, there is a good chance it wont. And yes i am still happy, my old valve is destroyed, sure i might be able to get parts and rebuild it, but i fear what ever lead to it sticking in the first place could happen again, even though it had never happened in the prior 10 years. This valve also seems to be stronger. What i mean is that it seems to lift the same amount of weight easier than my old one. My old valve unless i was idled up higher seems like the releif valve would go off when i was lifting mg disk, this one seems to pic it up much better.
What is strange is that the Hoye valve acts similar. That would lead one to beleive that the OE is fine...what are the chances that the bad part of the new valve is exactly the same as the old? I too agree, it sure seems like a bad valve just i cant see it with 2 different ones. You seem very good with mechanical stuff, even not knowing anything (not saying you dont) about the feedback lever or whatever with all the playing i would think you woukd of figured something out by now.
One thing i have noticed about my new valve....i dont know all the correct terms and things so i will say what makes sense to me. The new valve seems more internally loose or leaky. What i mean is that it seems even more RPM dependent than my old original one. What that means, if i set the bushhog height at 900rpm. And i run it up to say 2200 rpm the bush hog may raise up almost an inch or maybe even 2. Lower rpm and it will settle back. Now at any given speed the height does not move. I need to tighten the friction on my 3pt handle cause since i had to pull the stuck valve and fluid sprayed everywhere when the implement was up it made the lever slide down, even after cleaning spraying it off with brake clean and tightening it some it still vibrates down.
Again i am just pointing out these things. I had hoped this new valve woukd tighten it ip and the implement would hang in the air as it was cut off, why, cause you see other do it, my old one never did. And no i dont need it to. I point this out so if sone want to buy it thinking it may do that for theirs, there is a good chance it wont. And yes i am still happy, my old valve is destroyed, sure i might be able to get parts and rebuild it, but i fear what ever lead to it sticking in the first place could happen again, even though it had never happened in the prior 10 years. This valve also seems to be stronger. What i mean is that it seems to lift the same amount of weight easier than my old one. My old valve unless i was idled up higher seems like the releif valve would go off when i was lifting mg disk, this one seems to pic it up much better.
Indirocz28
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Correct it acts the same with either valve. There is a thread on YMowners from way back where it appears a guy did receive two bad valves from Hoye, Aaron made it right both times. This new valve definitely does have a problem.
Also, as mentioned, with it, I have to have the speed lever closer towards being flat pointing towards the rear, if I put it straight up like many of you say you have yours, then pull back on the control lever, not a darn thing happens. That leads me to believe there is perhaps an internal leak in this one too? I will have to double confirm that tonight after work. I will swap it back out with the original one and test it again straight up, as the seal for the Hoye valve is extremely loose in its bore. I can push it back in by hand, but just by working the handle back and forth a few times pushing the spool pin in and out, it comes out again.
Also, as mentioned, with it, I have to have the speed lever closer towards being flat pointing towards the rear, if I put it straight up like many of you say you have yours, then pull back on the control lever, not a darn thing happens. That leads me to believe there is perhaps an internal leak in this one too? I will have to double confirm that tonight after work. I will swap it back out with the original one and test it again straight up, as the seal for the Hoye valve is extremely loose in its bore. I can push it back in by hand, but just by working the handle back and forth a few times pushing the spool pin in and out, it comes out again.
kenmac
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If It were mine, I probably would have given up by now and just hauled it to fredricks to fix lol
Indirocz28
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Maybe just sell it off and buy a new 30hp John Deere! ����
