Oil & Fuel TC40DA: Oil change nightmare.

[shade tree welder]

Quick update. Got the correct head gasket on order the service manual
and the dealer mechanic do not recommend any sealants. The newer
laminated gasket do not need them. I will agree the surfaces of the block
and head are very smooth and typically the sealants only fill in the
machining (milling) marks of which there are none.

Tonight I got the SensiTrac clutch reinstalled and the related drive shafts.

On vacation tomorrow so I should be able to get the beast running, knock
wood!

 

[shade tree welder]

The proper head gasket arrived this morning it is ~3 times thicker than
the first one ordered. Ooopppssie, glad I didn't mess that one up...

Forgot to take picture prior to installing the head. To the picture ******
my apologies. Again no gasket sealant(s) used. But I did use anti-seize
on the head bolts, I use anti-seize on just about every fastener there is.
I spent too much of my time in the Navy dealing with salt water corrosion.
The only thing so far I did not anti-seize were the conn rod bolts, but
they were lubricated with engine oil prior to assy. As was the whole of
the piston prior to installation.

Also spun the crank and everything moved smoothly with no bangs, knock
or whines. Always a good thing I could not spin the crank by hand before
removing the bad rod. Also the engine pulley nut is 36mm.

I have included the service manuals two pages that cover head gasket
selection for the TC35, TC40 and TC45 models, and the head install
procedure.

 

[CowwFace]

Hey Shade_Tree,

Thank you for posting this thread! I'm going to be VERY careful adding oil to any of my motor's from now on.

Let us know when she's breathing again!

 

[jonyyuma]

Great details, some new head gaskets are self-sealing.It was 3 times thicker? I always use assembly lube on the bearings so I can spin it over by hand. This prevents problems later.No antiseaze on the rods, but sometimes I peen the end of the bolt, it depends on the manual. Hope it fires up on first try...Anything special about speed when it first starts up? Jy.

 

[shade tree welder]

I'm going to be VERY careful adding oil to any of my motor's from now on.

The main reason for this thread.

Great details, some new head gaskets are self-sealing.It was 3 times thicker?

three times thicker than the wrong head gasket. About the same as the original, SWMBO was nice and took my shop garbage out earlier this week and I did not have the old gasket as reference. Read Ref 11 I had a head gasket for the TC45 engine, same outline but much thinner.

I always use assembly lube on the bearings so I can spin it over by hand. This prevents problems later.No antiseaze on the rods, but sometimes I peen the end of the bolt, it depends on the manual. Hope it fires up on first try...Anything special about speed when it first starts up? Jy.

Engine internals, bearing, rods pistons etc. all get engine oil as assy lube.
Bolts that do not see lube in engine operations, get loctite or most likely anti-seize. Such as head bolts valve cover bolts, battery clamp bolts. I even put a light coat on injector thread and glow plugs, like I said a light coat, spark plugs on gas engine get them too. Mystik JT-6 spray grease or marine grease on hose clamp threads. All chassis bolts get anti seize, exhaust manifold bolts and nuts, and plenty there.

I have the valves adjusted (0.008") valve cover on, injectors in, glowplugs in, fuel lines hooked up, exhaust manifold on, thermostat housing on.

Checked compression, 8 compression strokes took every cylinder to 440-460 psi. Every sounds nice and quiet like it should.

Need to get to water pump, fan, power steering resevoir, muffler, and radiator and support brackets.

Possible tonight, definitely tomorrow to firer it up. Not planning on anything special for speed on start up, just a nudge on the throttle to get 800-1000 rpms til she warms up.


SWMBO = She who must be obeyed...

 

[nickel plate]

shade tree welder, I have a 2002 TC40S and there is no mention/caution of this in my operator's manual. I do see in your Ref 02 Service Bulletin with the date of "0606" so I beleive this emission control change/fiasco took place much later than my tractor's birth date. There are however references to the TC40-A so all of you "A" series owners-take heed of what stw had to go through. Thank you for the cautionary post and I hope this turns well for you and your tractor.

 

[mrmikey]

But I did use anti-seize on the head bolts,

Was that a wise thing to do? I understand why you did it I use Never seize on most everything too but what do the torque specs say, dry or lubed.
Not pickin', just inquiring ....Mike

 

[shade tree welder]

shade tree welder, I have a 2002 TC40S and there is no mention/caution of this in my operator's manual. I do see in your Ref 02 Service Bulletin with the date of "0606" so I beleive this emission control change/fiasco took place much later than my tractor's birth date. There are however references to the TC40-A so all of you "A" series owners-take heed of what stw had to go through. Thank you for the cautionary post and I hope this turns well for you and your tractor.

Nickel, does your tractor have an external valve cover breather?

Was that a wise thing to do? I understand why you did it I use Never seize on most everything too but what do the torque specs say, dry or lubed.
Not pickin', just inquiring ....Mike

Does not state dry or lubed, but I have had to dick around with too many
broken bolts in my life not to anti-sieze everything I can and that makes
sense to. Also I know that debate always going on about torque value of lubed
and dry bolts, etc. etc. Torque vs. actual bolt stretch is only a good guess
and can be effected by soooooooo mmmmaaaaannnnnyyyyy other variables
such as type of finish on the bolts (black oxide, chromate, zinc, cadmium,
etc.) surface finish of the bolt, surface finish of the mating part, material of
the mating surface (aluminum, cast iron, steel) corrosion condition of the
mating parts, machined thread fit, you can go on and on. I lube them, I torque
them, on the high end if given a range, and I move on. I have never sheared
a bolt or had an equipment related failure.

General Update:
Good progress tonight, got everything on but the hood bracket, air cleaner
and refill fluids. Everything went smoothly. 'cept the fat old man got tired
and hungry, SWMBO took me and the kids out to dinnner. Filet and shrimp,
yummy....

I am going to just fill the cooling system with water, and a little coolant
conditioner, for tomorrow and I have a **** load of chores to get done then
drain the system and refill with EG coolant.

Basically the same with then engine oil, fill it run it for the day. Drain, filter
change and refill with fresh oil for the winter. I also have the hydralic system
filters to change.

 

[nickel plate]

Nickel, does your tractor have an external valve cover breather?
Yes it does. It's on top of the valve cover between the two cylinders closest to the steering wheel. Connected to it is a rubber like hose that leads straight down to about even with the bottom of the crank case oil pan. Please tell me what this means in relation to your set-up.

 

[shade tree welder]

Yes it does. It's on top of the valve cover between the two cylinders closest to the steering wheel. Connected to it is a rubber like hose that leads straight down to about even with the bottom of the crank case oil pan. Please tell me what this means in relation to your set-up.

Nothing really I guess, morbid curiosity.

I was reassembling the air cleaner today and noticed a plug in the housing likely
intended for a breather hose connection. I'll post a picture later of it.