Oil & Fuel TC40DA: Oil change nightmare.

[JC-jetro]

Ther shoud be a BIG warning sticker. What is going to happen when these tractors start getting sold used and the new owner doesn't get the owners manual.The first thing I do when I buy somthing used is change the oil. How many times had you changed the oil without this happening? It seems somthing has to be in a certain position for this to happen. BTW the boys at Union Hill are verry helpfull.
Bill

The change needs to be done with design and not " right procedure". All the vehicles I had or friends and family had only needed opening the oil cap somewhere on valve cover and pour, no matter slow or fast. What would be wrong to use PVC port as a oil fill port in this design, provide the dia of the port is adequate?

JC.

 

[Jimmy Joe]

Thanks for the heads up, I am going to be a lot more careful when I change oil from now on.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

The change needs to be done with design and not " right procedure". All the vehicles I had or friends and family had only needed opening the oil cap somewhere on valve cover and pour, no matter slow or fast. What would be wrong to use PVC port as a oil fill port in this design, provide the dia of the port is adequate?

JC.

JC from what the OP has stated I think they already changed the design. Do they do recalls on tractors?
Bill

 

[fcardwell]

Glow plugs were my first thought too. They each test OK (resistance). I understand that the best way to test them is to pull them out and apply 12V from a battery directly to each one. It should glow cherry red. Does that sound reasonable to others? I haven't tried it yet. One service person said I probably had a bent valve stem that was straightening out as it got heated up. Anyone heard of that before? I would think the compression test while the engine is cold would have detected that. It really does behave exactly like what I would expect a bad glow plug to do. I haven't yet been able to tell which cylinder is the culpret or if they are all part of the problem. The coloring of the plugs looks about the same to me. I suppose that is because it clears up and runs fine and that burns the soot off.

 

[Jbrink64]

Glow plugs were my first thought too. They each test OK (resistance). I understand that the best way to test them is to pull them out and apply 12V from a battery directly to each one. It should glow cherry red. Does that sound reasonable to others? I haven't tried it yet. One service person said I probably had a bent valve stem that was straightening out as it got heated up. Anyone heard of that before? I would think the compression test while the engine is cold would have detected that. It really does behave exactly like what I would expect a bad glow plug to do. I haven't yet been able to tell which cylinder is the culpret or if they are all part of the problem. The coloring of the plugs looks about the same to me. I suppose that is because it clears up and runs fine and that burns the soot off.

Resistance is the best check, as I recall, each should be about 1.5-1.8 ohms. Taking them out and applying 12v could burn out "fast glow plugs" they're 6 v and use timers. Bent valves stay bent. Lots of the time, the smaller ( less than 30 hp) pre-combustion engines will smoke and miss for a minute or two on cold days, then clear up.

 

[fcardwell]

Thanks for the info. As I recall the resistance was in the range you cited and they were all very close to the same. The smoking and missing issue occurs any time of year, but only when I first start it. Once it warms up, no problem restarting. Thanks again for your response.

 

[shade tree welder]

BTW the boys at Union Hill are verry helpfull.
Bill

Hey neighbor, I live over between Essex and Bonfield, Wilmington address with a Hersher phone number, go figure?!?
Kerry, Chris, Kurt and the crew are great!

JC from what the OP has stated I think they already changed the design. Do they do recalls on tractors?
Bill

The TC40DA is now the TC2310, on the 2310 eliminated the extended fill
tube on the valve cover so with the A/C, Power steering res the Air cleaner
and the muffler you cannot reasonably get to that fill point, and they added
the fill point on the timing gear cover, so only the models in the service
bulletin I posted at the beginning of the thread are effected.

Recalls, yes they do but they are not under the same requirements as
vehicle (car truck) mfrs as the NTSB is not involved in off road vehicles.
But they did not and should do one here, at least a mail out warning to all
the registered owners.

When this is all over I am going to write a letter to NH, and professionally
by clearly state my displeasure in this incident.

I understand that the best way to test them is to pull them out and apply 12V from a battery directly to each one. It should glow cherry red. Does that sound reasonable to others?

NNNNNOOOOOOO!!!!!!!! All glow plugs are 6V animals. Check them with
an ohmmeter only!

Resistance is the best check, as I recall, each should be about 1.5-1.8 ohms. Taking them out and applying 12v could burn out "fast glow plugs" they're 6 v and use timers. Bent valves stay bent. Lots of the time, the smaller ( less than 30 hp) pre-combustion engines will smoke and miss for a minute or two on cold days, then clear up.

Quick update the new piston and rod went in smoothly last night, plastigage
was at a clearance of 0.0017" which was right were you would want it.
Spec was 0.0014-0.0033" Oil pan and oil pan gasket installed with no issues
tonight I will get the Sensitrac clutch reinstalled and then I should be done
crawling on the ground.

I just got done reading the manual for the head installation and I think they
go me the wrong head gasket, ****...

 

[jonyyuma]

Oh boy, Always helps to have the correct part. Now we can discuss gasket sealers or lack there of on it, what did the manual say? BTW. You can test the glow plug, out of the motor with 12 volts, it only take seconds and it will get hot. It does not have to turn cherry red before you disconnect power to it. Resistance to each glow plug should be about the same.Jy.

 

[Welshman]

I've been following this thread, mainly out of curiousity, because I own an '07 T1520. I'm about due for another oil change and checked my service manual yesterday to make sure of which oil weight I've been using (short memory). I was shocked to see this same warning in a bold block in my service manual. I can't believe I've missed it, apparently a half a dozen times before. I've never done anything special adding oil before. Thanks for the alert! I may have missed it, but what size oil containers did you use when you had this problem?

 

[shade tree welder]

I may have missed it, but what size oil containers did you use when you had this problem?

Quarts this time, NH brand 10W-30 cause I have a heck of a time finding
a CI/CJ service (diesel engine oil) in 10W-30 around here. But I have used
gallons and 2.5 gallon jugs before. Now what I have been doing is inverting
the quart bottle in the filler neck and letting it drain in. I think the colder
temps and as a result the oil being thicker was the issue here more than the
container size.

I do on occasion run Delvac 1 5W-40 in the summer, but always change to
10W-30 for winter use.