Swap tires to increase track

[patanders]

I have a Satoh S470D Buck, and property that has very few flat places. The Buck is pretty narrow and "tipsy."

Both front and rear wheels have hub offsets from the centerline. If I swap tires side-to-side to increase the track, and therefore the stability on the hillsides, will it put undue stress on the wheel hub bearings?

I know this isn't really a customization, but wasn't sure where else to post.

Thanks,

Pat

 

[patanders]

Oops, I meant swap wheels and tires side-to-side...

 

[porta mill]

at work I have a Mitsubishi with a loader. I swaped the tires so the dish is out and it works fine . It scares the heck out of me sometimesthis way . I would not want run it again with out the dish out .it has been running for four years so far no problems.

 

[patanders]

Thanks, Porta Mill. I talke to a mechanic at work today, and he agrred with you. Should be no problem. Thanks.

 

[yomax4]

Guys, Are you saying that you flip the front rims around so that the track is increased? or widened? Good info but i have read a dozen threads that say with a FEL it is too much stress on front bearings. Are you running an FEL? I ask because i too would like to turn my front rims dish out but am affraid of doing damage.

 

[PILOON]

Guys, Are you saying that you flip the front rims around so that the track is increased? or widened? Good info but i have read a dozen threads that say with a FEL it is too much stress on front bearings. Are you running an FEL? I ask because i too would like to turn my front rims dish out but am affraid of doing damage.

My MT180 with loader has all 4 swapped over to widen the track.
1300 hrs and no problems as of yet.
In fact my frts are not original wheels and have wider imprint.
3/4's of my usage involves loader work, and hard at that as I dig with a tooth bar a lot.

I have never driven with the narrow setup and nor do I wish to try.

Mitsubishi actually offered a block to extend the track as an option so I guess their design was made to accept wide stance.

And my rears are loaded as well as were the fronts by the dealer.
Fronts no longer are but were for about 700 hrs until calcium ate up a rim, hence the wider non mitsu rims.
I can attest that there was no difference in stability between front loaded vs unloaded.

Front 'widened out' is harder on arm-strong steering however you get used to it with time. I do check the frt often for bearing slop but so far so good.

 

[tessiers]

Most ag tractors are designed to adjust width to accomodate rows, My JD can swithch sides as well as flip center in wheel for 2" increments. I am not familiar with the satoh but I would not hesitate if it were mine.

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

If it is an automotive style wheel.........
Seems like it would depend on the bolt holes in the rim. Can it be reversed and not have a problem with the tapered bolt holes. Ag style wheels may be different......

My older JD compact, with automotive style rims, has two set of holes. One set for each direction. Fronts as well as rears........

Good luck
Wyo

 

[atgreene]

Rear wheels are designed to be moved in almost infinite settings.

Fronts should not be dished out, stress will crack the rim.

 

[V1Rotate]

Because the front axle pivots, moving the front tires outboard doesn't really increase lateral stability.

 

[TTTTTT]

I tipped mine a few years ago and that is the first thing I did. Heres a copy from another site detailing it


Tipover
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/safety/145119-big-flip.html

Start after Tipover
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/145120-df354-starting-after-big-flip.html

Tire positions


After the Big Flip and then the Big Start..........now its the New Stance.

I decided this would be my first change after getting my tractor back up and running. A fairly quick and straight forward procedure depending on which setting (rear width) you want to choose.

The Fronts
Before


After
Closeup

Very easy.
List
1. Find level ground
2. Block rear wheels
3. Use loader (if equipped) to raise front end. Use jack stands or similar (I used 15" dia. logs cut at correct height). Very solid
4. Remove tires, swap left to right, and flip so concave side out

A few front end pics.



The Rears
Before

After Note: It may look as if the right wheel is not the same distance out as the left. I had to take a second look until I realized when I flipped the tractor, the right fender bracket got bent in, so the wheel appears to be further out by about an inch.


The most important tool!!!! (from another forum somewhere- can't take credit for it)



A long handled shovel makes the job of lifting the large rears that inch or so to get the right position. You can step on the handle nicely lifting it in place as you push it on and taking them off.

I used the second from widest position as they lined up with the fronts nicely and I didn't have to swap left for right. I simply removed the inner rim turned it around (concave out) and reinstalled. The inner rim has the welded attached spots (Not sure the right name) toward the out side. To have them more to the inside, the tire must be flipped and then moved to the other side. This would widen them even further. I wanted a compromise so it would still fit on my trailer.

Left Wide - Right Narrow


The new look is quite nice, a little bolder. Better yet noticeably more stable. Very reassuring when operating, although can never replace common sense.

The Final View



Enjoy Dave

 

[kco]

I bought my L275 DT 7 years ago with rear tires set to a narrow width because it was used in a nursery. I had loader added before taking delivery and it was downright scarey. My trails have lots of side hills so it was bad even without loader work.

Rather than mess with the heavy fluid-filled tires and likely very stiff bolts, I got the local tire shop to come with a service truck and make the change which involved adjusting the two piece rims as well as remounting the rims to the widest setting on the wheel.

The improvement in stability and safety was dramatic.

I've just purchased a Kioti DK35 with industrial tires and asked the dealer to set them at the widest width. I was surprised to find the DK35 just has a single piece rim and thus is not adjustable. DK40 and above have two-piece rims. The assures me it will be stable, but I intend to do lots of testing just to make sure. If it doesn't feel right I will switch to AG tires which have adjustable rims.

 

[Thames Jones]

Thanks, Porta Mill. I talke to a mechanic at work today, and he agrred with you. Should be no problem. Thanks.

Adding tracks to farm tractor benefits dual.
1. Reduces Soil Compaction
2. Eliminating Wheelslips.

After adding tracks to farm tractor inspect all nuts & bolts are tight and at correct torque rating.

 

[patanders]

Good article. I appreciate the feedback. I already swapped the frons, and will get the rears whenever IT STOPS RAINING! Thanks for the help!