Spencer's Pole Barn Project

/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project
  • Thread Starter
#101  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

I had a buddy over Thursday to help me set some more trusses. It was cold and snowing but we were working hard enough that we stayed warm. We ended up getting 9 more trusses set for a total of 12. The first three that I did by myself took 6 hours total. We set these nine trusses in 6 hours and that included going downtown for a sub sandwich.
 

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/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project
  • Thread Starter
#102  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

I didn't take any photo's while we were working because I didn't want to slow the job down. Here is a side view of the project. You can see the 12' by 24' lean-to that will be my tractors future home. I am going to marry some 2" by 8"s to the trusses and use those as rafters for the lean-to. I'm sure some of you will notice that the trusses are not cross braced in the photo's. Don't worry, I stayed out there after my buddy left and braced everything up nicely. It was just too dark to take any photo's of the bracing.
 

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/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project
  • Thread Starter
#103  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Here is the last picture I took yesterday. It is a view from the rear of the building. I had to run to the lumber yard for some hardware last night so I thought I would price out plywood versus the osb. At Menards 1/2" osb is 5.98, 1/2 plywood is 8.69 and 1/2" treated plywood is 15.98. Calculating my square footage I will need about 100 sheets. I'm sure that I will end up needing at least 110 or more in reality. I priced the treated plywood thinking that although it costs more I could put that up and not have to worry about covering it up with anything until I was good and ready to put the shingles on in warmer weather. At 700 more that the regular plywood and 1000 more than the osb I don't know if it would be worth it. I am buying 98% of my materials from a local lumberyard (Wickes Lumber). I just run to Menard's when I need an extra board at night or on the weekend. I will call Wickes today and see what there prices are for plywood.
 

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/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project #104  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

I would, if in the situation you are in (winter, frozen, snow, want weather-proof but not water-proof), go with the plywood and pre-treat it with a water-repellant preservative such as is used on wood decks (Thompsons wood protector, for example). Then I would trust this surface-treated plywood to shed most of the water that would come from melting snow and spring rains without much damage caused to the wood during the rest of this winter. If OSB was used, this treatment would help it also but the lack of stiffness and possible swelling along the edges when it gets wet would cause me to stay away from OSB too. If me, and the trusses were on 24" centers, I would be looking at 5/8" thickness instead of 1/2" too (which I think now is actually a little thinner that 1/2"). The 5/8 will give you more stiffness between the trusses.
The pre-treatment can be rolled on or sprayed on, but probably you would want to do it inside with at least above- freezing temps. You could also mix your own by mixing melted paraffin in mineral spirits, but at about $45/5 gal. its not too pricey to buy it.
 
/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project #105  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Spencer - I'd say you're making great progress considering the weather and the limited daytime hours you have to work on it! I'm no expert, but I'd definitely consider plywood even though it costs more. Are your trusses 2' on center? My garage has plywood and no sags between the rafters, but my house has OSB and it sags between each rafter. Both have trusses 2' on center. Maybe it would be worth the money to hire out the shingling since a good experienced crew could finish it up much quicker. I know from what little shingling I've done that it's very laborious and I wouldn't mind paying someone else to do it! But, you're obviously much more energetic and talented than I am. I'll be watching your progress closely, since I still want to build mine either next year or the year after. It won't be near as large, but I can learn from your techniques. I'm already thinking about getting a FEL (again, I've thought about it many times), since seeing what you can do with yours via your Switch-Hitch makes a FEL much more attractive and the cost of one much more justifiable.
 
/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project
  • Thread Starter
#106  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Mosey, Yes the trusses are on 2 foot centers. I am leaning towards the plywood as of right now. I still have a few weeks before I have to make up my mind. On your house did they use those "H" clips on the osb between the trusses? I think the only way I would end up using osb now is if I knew I was going to hire out the shingle work so that it would get done right away.
 
/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project #107  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Spencer - Yes, they did use the "H" clips on the 1/2" OSB in the house, but they did not use them on the 1/2" plywood in the garage.
 
/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project #108  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Spencer,Don't even think about any type OSB for the roof.With 24" spacing,you need a good grade 5/8" 4-5 ply,plywood.

Anything less will sag in time and you'll be very unhappy,even if you use the H-clips.It cost less in the longrun to set trusses on 16" ctrs. and use a 1/2" 4-ply plywood sheathing.
 
/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project #109  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

I live in a barn built 20 years ago with 2 ' rafters but covered with 3/4" OSB/clips. Re shingled 2 years ago, no problems.bcs
 
/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project #110  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

I used 5/8 osb on my 2000sqft house addition
and attached 26x28 garage.
2' spacing on rafters and it is solid.
I came close to using 3/4 osb subfloor
because of T & G which would be REAL solid.
But I always go over kill anyway, like 1/2" osb
on inside walls under 5/8" drywall that way
the wife's junk (oops) can hang where ever.
 
/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project #111  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

I'm sure 3/4" would be fine,Spence was looking at 1/2".But ,if you figure the cost of an extra few trusses and the savings on a 110 sheets of plywood at 1/2" instead of 5/8" or 3/4".

Not sure of the pitch,looks like 3-12 or 4-12,from where Spence is located,I'm sure the Snowload would figure in the strength of the roof.If the pitch were 4-12 to 7 or 8-12,the Snowload is not as severe.With an Asphalt Shingle,the snow will gather,one thing about a metal roof is the snow will slide right off with not much accumulation.
 
/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project
  • Thread Starter
#112  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

We got another 12 trusses up today for a total of 24.
 

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/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project
  • Thread Starter
#113  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Here I am using the personnel lift to put bracing up on the underside of the trusses.
 

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/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project
  • Thread Starter
#114  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

I still haven't made up my mind on what sheathing to use so please feel free continue to debate the issue. Hopefully I will get four more trusses up tomorrow and then I have to set the two poles before I set the last truss up on the 32 by 56 foot section.
 
/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project #115  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

We put the 3/4 T&G OSB on my cousin's house floor. Was great stuff, a lot flatter than plywood so you could mate the pieces without hammering your brains out. It got wet a few times with no ill effects to date.

Used 1/2" OSB for wall sheathing and 1/2" (I think) plywood on the roof deck with H clips.
 
/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project #116  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Nice pictures and beautiful job on the barn. Here is idea for you to ponder... I used metal roof on my pole barn and found it very cost effective compared to plywood/shingle roof. I put 2x4 purlons across the trusses and screwed the 2ft wide metal sheets to them. The sheets are custom cut to length for your roof to run from peak to desired overhang. Very easy and quick to install and will out last any shingle roof.
good luck on rest of project.
 
/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project #117  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Hey Spencer, just thought of this last night, you live near lake michigan right? call and get quotes to have a 50 ft boat shrink wrapped and then tell them that you actually have a barn to do. this would even work without the plywood in place.

I have a metal roof on mine and the rain is loud! but since your trusses are already 2 ft apart, put on the plywood and then steel. that should quiet it down.
 
/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project
  • Thread Starter
#118  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Here is what it looks like after I got finished on Sunday night. I got all but one of the main trusses up.
 

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/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project
  • Thread Starter
#119  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Side view.

I will not get much if any work done on this project over the next two weeks. A class I am taking in refrigeration will take most of my time.
 

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/ Spencer's Pole Barn Project #120  
Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

If you put plywood down then steel tight to the plywood you might as well kiss that roof goodbye. The metal will hold moisture against the plywood rotting it out. In about 2 years the plywood will be ruined and the metal will be loose from the nails because it is now nailed onto a sponge. If you plywood the roof you will have to shingle it or put pearlings on top the plywood to create a space to allow moisture to escape.
 

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