Solar radiant Heat
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charlz
Elite Member
And that type of installation is as efficient as 'in floor'? Even in a unheated crawlspace? The reason I ask is I have a fairly cold area of the house (master bathroom... I hear about cold floors constantly in the winter), the pellet stove heat just doesn't get there effectively. I have thought of putting subfloor electric radiant but thought it wouldn't really be all that effective. I have also thought of doing solar thermal .... basically any heat into that area in the winter would be a huge plus.
Charlz,
I sent my floor plan to radiantec in Vermont and they did the layout.
I could have shoped the product and saved some money but they are there to answer all the question. My solar panel are working as specified by them and I'm very pleased. Now that the Feds have brought back the tax credit it makes it that much better. $2500.00
State of Maine $2000.00
Check and read Radiantec's site theres alot of info.
Phil
I sent my floor plan to radiantec in Vermont and they did the layout.
I could have shoped the product and saved some money but they are there to answer all the question. My solar panel are working as specified by them and I'm very pleased. Now that the Feds have brought back the tax credit it makes it that much better. $2500.00
State of Maine $2000.00
Check and read Radiantec's site theres alot of info.
Phil
charlz
Elite Member
IXLR8
Elite Member
Phil, the sheetrock will crush as others have said. If you want to put the tubing on top of the plywood, under the Pergo.. then Uponor Wirsbo has a product that is just made for that. It is called Quik-Trak, it is a plywood that has grooves cut in it for the tubing and has an aluminum backing to spread the heat... just be sitting down when you price it!!
Quik Trak - Wirsbo Quik Trak - Wirsbo Quik Trak Panels
What I am doing is using the Uponor Joist-Trak, it spreads the heat out better, allows lower water temps or allows more heat per area transferred, the insulation can be right up against the Trak/plumbing. It is an extruded product and therefore costs more than the standard sheet metal that is used for heat spreading. Keep in mind different flooring has different temperature limits. I believe Pergo has a 85dF max temp.
Sorry if I have repeated anything.. I came to this thread late.
Quik Trak - Wirsbo Quik Trak - Wirsbo Quik Trak Panels
What I am doing is using the Uponor Joist-Trak, it spreads the heat out better, allows lower water temps or allows more heat per area transferred, the insulation can be right up against the Trak/plumbing. It is an extruded product and therefore costs more than the standard sheet metal that is used for heat spreading. Keep in mind different flooring has different temperature limits. I believe Pergo has a 85dF max temp.
Sorry if I have repeated anything.. I came to this thread late.
woodlandfarms
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This is really interesting, the fact your house is built around a mobile home. We have a manufactured home and had intended to tear down and rebuild but with the economy we will stay in it a few more years (it is a 96, but still not well made). In the process of re-financing we have heard some serious problems with trying to resell these homes. One story in particular blew me away. The person had modified over the years a mobile home into a regular home. It was quite nice. very nice. But at the guts of it all it was still a mobile home. When the house was inspected the homeowner could not re-sell it for the value asked because it was still a mobile home, even though there was a real foundation around a lot of the home.
woodlandfarms,
I have no worries about selling. The frame is the only thing that still exsite of the mobile. It has been inspected mutiple times by several home inspector and appraisers.
This is our home and it will be in the family for a long time. My daughter was born in this house and we built it, and have lived here for a long time.
The view of the pond only gets better with age and digging. The zoning for the neighborhood is a 5 acre min. so what we see is what we will see. To nice to leave.
Thankgiving weekend I will install the tube under the floor and I will post some pictures.
Phil
I have no worries about selling. The frame is the only thing that still exsite of the mobile. It has been inspected mutiple times by several home inspector and appraisers.
This is our home and it will be in the family for a long time. My daughter was born in this house and we built it, and have lived here for a long time.
The view of the pond only gets better with age and digging. The zoning for the neighborhood is a 5 acre min. so what we see is what we will see. To nice to leave.
Thankgiving weekend I will install the tube under the floor and I will post some pictures.
Phil
Luremaker
Veteran Member
I have been following this post since the beginning. I am in the process of finishing up my pop can solar air heaters. I am now thinking of adding solar hot water panels for both DHW and heating my shop floor. During my on-line research I have found tons of information. These links may be of interest to some of you considering solar hot water.
Radiant Living Magazine with archives (lots of articles)
Radiant Living - Fall 2008
Here are a few types of floor heating methods
Hydronic Radiant Floors - Radiant Panel Association
A simple to understand pdf guide to installing a number of different solar DHW sytems
http://www.solarh2ot.com/guide.pdf
Radiant Living Magazine with archives (lots of articles)
Radiant Living - Fall 2008
Here are a few types of floor heating methods
Hydronic Radiant Floors - Radiant Panel Association
A simple to understand pdf guide to installing a number of different solar DHW sytems
http://www.solarh2ot.com/guide.pdf
charlz
Elite Member
Interesting that the author doesn't see much value in the evacuated tube collectors over 'regular' collectors.
Luremaker,
Thanks for the links. The one site with the differant installation methods for the tube did catch my attention. The poured GYPSUM used a lower water temp (I like).
charlz,
Here is an other link for you.
Enjoy
Phil
The follow is the link to the Flat Plate collector vs the Evacuated Tube collectors;
http://aetsolar.com/AET%20Literature/Performance%20-%20Flat%20Plate%20vs%20Vacuum%20Tube.pdf
Thanks for the links. The one site with the differant installation methods for the tube did catch my attention. The poured GYPSUM used a lower water temp (I like).
charlz,
Here is an other link for you.
Enjoy
Phil
The follow is the link to the Flat Plate collector vs the Evacuated Tube collectors;
http://aetsolar.com/AET%20Literature/Performance%20-%20Flat%20Plate%20vs%20Vacuum%20Tube.pdf
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SpringHollow
Elite Member
the vacuum tube ones we used worked great for 20 years - boiling water while it was in the 30's and raining outside. Could not have been happier.
Ken
Ken
ksimolo,
I agree that the tubes do heat the water up hotter than flat panels. They both have an advantage and could compliment each other if used together. I would like to add a rack of tubes on the return of my flat panels. The flat panels would preheat in the early day and the team would deliver higher temps though out the mid and afternoon.
Today its in the high 40's ,fog, and thick clouds.
panel temp 65 bottom temp is 63, ground water 51 still a gain.
Phil
I agree that the tubes do heat the water up hotter than flat panels. They both have an advantage and could compliment each other if used together. I would like to add a rack of tubes on the return of my flat panels. The flat panels would preheat in the early day and the team would deliver higher temps though out the mid and afternoon.
Today its in the high 40's ,fog, and thick clouds.
panel temp 65 bottom temp is 63, ground water 51 still a gain.
Phil
scott_vt
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Good Evenin Phil,
I just read through your thread this morning ! What a great thread , with a bunch of valuable info ! My hats off to you on all that copper plumbing, absolutely beautiful work ! I have sweated a few pipes when the need arises but nothing like that. I will be real curious how this whole system works out through the course of the winter ! Thanks for all the info and associated pictures.
I just read through your thread this morning ! What a great thread , with a bunch of valuable info ! My hats off to you on all that copper plumbing, absolutely beautiful work ! I have sweated a few pipes when the need arises but nothing like that. I will be real curious how this whole system works out through the course of the winter ! Thanks for all the info and associated pictures.
Hi Scott,
Thank you! My main resource for most of the product comes from Radiantec in Lyndonville, Vermont. They have the manifold all soldered together in the proper order. How ever to install I had to cut it apart and assemble to fit my space. Thanks giving weekend we will be running the floor tube. I've been extremely busy at work other wise it would be done.
Phil
Thank you! My main resource for most of the product comes from Radiantec in Lyndonville, Vermont. They have the manifold all soldered together in the proper order. How ever to install I had to cut it apart and assemble to fit my space. Thanks giving weekend we will be running the floor tube. I've been extremely busy at work other wise it would be done.
Phil
IXLR8
Elite Member
The vacuum tube panels folks are talking about, are they running the fluid (water/glycol) through the center tubes or are they using a phase change material and running the fluid past the phase change material?
IXLR8,
I believe the double wall evacuated tubes use a long skinny piece of copper tube that is sealed on both ends. I think the tube is approximately 3/8" Dia 5 0r 6' long with the top bulbing out to3/4"x3" long. There is about a teaspoon of liquid in it and the air is evacuated out and sealed. My understanding is this liquid will turn to steam at 86 or so degrees and go to the top bulb , cool, run down and repeat. the top bulb transfers the heat to another copper piece that has the glycol in it to transfer to the tank.
I'll look for some pics to help illustrate.
Phil
I believe the double wall evacuated tubes use a long skinny piece of copper tube that is sealed on both ends. I think the tube is approximately 3/8" Dia 5 0r 6' long with the top bulbing out to3/4"x3" long. There is about a teaspoon of liquid in it and the air is evacuated out and sealed. My understanding is this liquid will turn to steam at 86 or so degrees and go to the top bulb , cool, run down and repeat. the top bulb transfers the heat to another copper piece that has the glycol in it to transfer to the tank.
I'll look for some pics to help illustrate.
Phil
IXLR8
Elite Member
Phil,
What you are describing is the phase change type of evacuated tube solar panel. There was a time when they made evacuated tube panels where the fluid ran through the center tube. VERY expensive and for not much increase in efficiency. I have discovered a place here in Maine that makes/sells them, not too far from me. I was going to see about paying them a visit and see just what they had to offer. I already have the radiant tubing in place.. just looking for a good heat source. All I need is 90dF water to give me the heat I need.
EOS Solar - Home
Keep us posted on your progress and performance.
What you are describing is the phase change type of evacuated tube solar panel. There was a time when they made evacuated tube panels where the fluid ran through the center tube. VERY expensive and for not much increase in efficiency. I have discovered a place here in Maine that makes/sells them, not too far from me. I was going to see about paying them a visit and see just what they had to offer. I already have the radiant tubing in place.. just looking for a good heat source. All I need is 90dF water to give me the heat I need.
EOS Solar - Home
Keep us posted on your progress and performance.
IXLR8
Elite Member
I am hearing lots of positive comments about this product but I have not found any hard data on it.
SpringHollow
Elite Member
the ones i am referring to had the water running through them. They had great parabolic reflectors behind them so they really were relatively efficient.
Ken
Ken
