Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Snow chain questions

[Pks]

Will snow chains with studs severely scratch concrete and/or black top drives?

How rough is the ride when using 2 link ladder chains? I've used 4 link ladder chains without studs and I thought I'd like a bit more traction.

I don't want to put divits into an asphalt driveway and I'd like to avoid such a bumpy ride out on the backtop road.

Do any of you folks have any good words?

 

[Hill-Billy]

I have a B7510 Kubota with R4 tires and I use 2 link ladder chains on the rears only. It is a little bumpy on pavement, you definately feel them, but it does not bother me. There are a few "white" scratches on the driveway and they will be more defined if you spin the tires. I don't have studs on my chains, if I did I'm sure I would chip up the pavement. My chains weigh about 30 lbs each.

 

[lungdoc]

I'd also avoid the V-bar/studs for use on hard surfaces as I think they'll mark; less so obviously if you get continuous cold so can leave a packed base to protect the drive. I always thought 2 link chains to be smoother than 4 link as there's more or less always some chain under the tire so less bumpy.

 

[Pks]

In my part of SE Michigan, the snow tends to melt on the black top and concrete surfaces a few days after it snows so there's no real cushioning effect.

Your mention of the 2 link ladder chains supports my initial theory about a smoother ride vs the 4 linkers that I'm familiar with. They were not bad, but they lacked traction and the v-bars my neighbor has seemed REALLY rough.

 

[RoyJackson]

Your mention of the 2 link ladder chains supports my initial theory about a smoother ride vs the 4 linkers that I'm familiar with. They were not bad, but they lacked traction and the v-bars my neighbor has seemed REALLY rough.

www.tirechains.com also supports that theory. One of their selling points for 2 link ladder chains is a smoother ride on pavement.

 

[grsthegreat]

I'm in the same dilemma. I'm about to order chains for my DK45 but i have some concrete and some asphalt and alot of gravel to consider.
I guess I'm leaning towards the 2 link, but I'm still unsure what to do. Ill probably chain up all 4 tires.

 

[Thomas]

Keep the chains tight,plus take wide turns if you can.

 

[Pks]

I see the 2 link ladder chains at 'tirechain' to be about $300. Are there any other suppliers that might have a better price?

 

[crazyal]

They are not cheap but these are suppose to work well on pavement. I almost bought a set but since I have no pavement and the only cement is the floor in my garage I opted for a more aggressive chain.

Aquiline Multi-Purpose Tire Chains

 

[Pks]

Crazyal, if you went with a more aggressive chain, what did you get and how do you deal with your floor?

 

[North Country]

Chains will mark blacktop and concrete. Chains with studs (v-bar) will *damage* blacktop and concrete.

 

[RoyJackson]

Chains will mark blacktop and concrete. Chains with studs (v-bar) will *damage* blacktop and concrete.

Buddy of mine has the 4 link type chains. As long as he makes no sharp turns, he hasn't marred his asphalt drive. But he did mar it before he learned how to operate with chains.

BTW, tirechains.com describes the 2 link (which I have) and 4 link as "road" chains as they ride better (that's a relative term!!) and less likely to damage asphalt or concrete.

 

[Pks]

So far, I'm leaning toward 2 link chains. I'm not too concerned about maring the public road but I think there may be a neighbor that I'll be doing and I believe they have a black top drive which I did not want to scar up with divets from studs. A few scratches are acceptable but not so many that they have to re-apply sealcoat every year due to the chain activity.

 

[RoyJackson]

So far, I'm leaning toward 2 link chains. I'm not too concerned about maring the public road but I think there may be a neighbor that I'll be doing and I believe they have a black top drive which I did not want to scar up with divets from studs. A few scratches are acceptable but not so many that they have to re-apply sealcoat every year due to the chain activity.

You should be OK...just watch any sharp turns (especially when backing up to turn around) that would cause pivoting about one rear tire.
BTW...those 2 link chains are very heavy. Unless your drive (and your neighbor's drive) are pretty steep, you can probably use the 4 link chains (cheaper and lighter).
Which ever you decide upon, don't wait until the snow season begins to order them...might not be available then (mine weren't...had to make do until about May).

 

[crazyal]

Crazyal, if you went with a more aggressive chain, what did you get and how do you deal with your floor?

I have some old pieces of carpet I use. Since it's only a short distance it's easy to do. But I have driven across the cement on occasion and it really doesn't hurt it much.

 

[bubbacuse77]

I'm in the same boat. steep driveway with pavement. I've seen what vbars do to the surface and want to start using cables as a happy medium between traction and surface damage. Does anyone know where a guy can get tire cables for rear tires on a compact tractor? I have a JD 3520 and there is very limited clearance between the tire and fender and cables would help with clearance issues.

 

[PILOON]

I have operated with loaded tires and 2 link studded chains for about 5 years now.
B4 that thw chains were 4 link 'til I added the extra crosses.
When they were in the wide spacing I did create a few scrapes in the pave but since adding the extra cross links that happens not.
My experience is that the tire could skid a bit between link contacts, i.e. skip/grab, skid/grab but with thw 2 link setup there is always chain ground contact ergo no skidding.
Also the ride is much more tolerable. With the wide 4 link gap you felt kinda like you were riding a horse rather than driving a vehicle on wheels.
As to marking the pavement or concrete, maybe a bit but then It is a drive and not my living room floor and spring thaw along with the debris/dirt will soon hide any scratches, but then I don't wax my tractor either.

 

[Dennis Mickle]

I have a M F 184 4- wheel drive with an 11' snow blade. We get alot of snow and have had as much as 26' ,thats feet total for the year, last winter. I run tire chains on all 4 tires. my shop floor is concrete I have damaged this floor and had to have it repairedby just one trip into the shop. Now I put plywood down everytime I need to put the 184 in the shop. So beware. I use V bar chains as my driveway is nearly 1 mile long and very steep.

 

[Pks]

Thanks everyone, colletively, your insight(s) have been extremely helpful. Score another :thumbsup: for the TBN community.

I'll be ordering the 2 link ladder style for my L3700SU; as soon as I can prove that they will fit under the fenders. The inside of the tire is only 1.5 inches from the fender and rops mount.

I'll go over to my neighbor's house and throw on his chains and see if they'll fit without hitting the fender & mount frame.

 

[RoyJackson]

The inside of the tire is only 1.5 inches from the fender and rops mount.

I'll go over to my neighbor's house and throw on his chains and see if they'll fit without hitting the fender & mount frame.

I think you'll need more clearance (2.5" or so)...might have to reverse your wheels or swap side to side.