Smart Shop tips!

   / Smart Shop tips! #122  
For those who use rattle cans and hate the shaking, if you own a sawzall, take a 12" blade and some hose clamps and make your own mechanical shaker! Have used duct tape and also electrical tape in a pinch. Sure is quicker and easier for those of us dealing with Arthritis!

This probably works well with full sized sawzalls, but the hand held versions might shake almost as much as the can does. I've been using the small versions (one battery powered) for awhile and they take a bit more of a grip to accomplish the same task as the full sized one due to less weight. I'll have to try this next time I need to shake a can to see how the small sawzall does.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #123  
I see used corded reciprocating saws for sale cheap often. Perhaps mount one permanently somewhere set up as a dedicated rattle can shaker.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #124  
Where do you get the stickers? I see them on tool boxes all the time but don't remember being given any. Maybe I toss them without thinking about it.

You get stickers by spending a lot of money online ordering "stuff". Most companies throw a couple in the box. Mine are mostly Jeep Offroad Parts oriented. Did I mention a LOT of money?
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #125  
You get stickers by spending a lot of money online ordering "stuff". Most companies throw a couple in the box. Mine are mostly Jeep Offroad Parts oriented. Did I mention a LOT of money?

Change your username to ovrspnd .
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #126  
That痴 actually a good tip. I have 2 ATVs, both with leaky petcock valves. Replaced both but they still leak (stupid cork gasket design). I知 going to try your silicone grease idea.
The problem with cork gaskets is that they are easy to over tighten. I got my hand slapped and my ego bruised went my first boss in aviation caught me tightening valve cover gaskets on a Lycoming with an open end wrench on hex flats of my screw driver. I always remembered, after that, too much torque is a bad thing.

Too much silicone on the inner side of the gasket can break off and clog grease passages. I think he meant wheel bearing grease. It keeps the gasket in place while tightening up the fasteners.

Old Crisco lard works well too. I like to use old Crisco to hold small, hard to start nuts on my finger tip, when there is no room for two fingers. Harder on your finger's skin, but a more modern practice is super glue the nut to your finger tip.
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #127  
The problem with cork gaskets is that they are easy to over tighten. I got my hand slapped and my ego bruised went my first boss in aviation caught me tightening valve cover gaskets on a Lycoming with an open end wrench on hex flats of my screw driver. I always remembered, after that, too much torque is a bad thing.

Too much silicone on the inner side of the gasket can break off and clog grease passages. I think he meant wheel bearing grease. It keeps the gasket in place while tightening up the fasteners.

Old Crisco lard works well too. I like to use old Crisco to hold small, hard to start nuts on my finger tip, when there is no room for two fingers. Harder on your finger's skin, but a more modern practice is super glue the nut to your finger tip.
hugs, Brandi

I’ll keep that in mind. I’ve read silicone grease is what people tend to use on carb gaskets?
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #128  
I’ll keep that in mind. I’ve read silicone grease is what people tend to use on carb gaskets?

Form-a-gasket, or (later) Blue silicone was used by me lots of times on iffy used gaskets, on my own machines. It's just too easy to leave an unseen large blob inside. I love my Cummins and Mahindra when I open something up and only see an oring. Orings are the cat's meow of sealing.
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #129  
Form-a-gasket, or (later) Blue silicone was used by me lots of times on iffy used gaskets, on my own machines. It's just too easy to leave an unseen large blob inside.


Agreed! I still do on occasion but I try not to.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #131  
I had posted grease 4 gaskets, I always used 'dyno' grease as if it oozed inwards on carb gaskets the gas would simply dissolve it.

'nother tip is to use plain cardboard to cut gaskets and bearing balls to punch/locate the fastener holes.
U gently place the ball over the fastener hole and give a slight tap with a hammer and ergo, a perfectly located and slightly oversized gasket hole.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #132  
'nother tip is to use plain cardboard to cut gaskets and bearing balls to punch/locate the fastener holes.
U gently place the ball over the fastener hole and give a slight tap with a hammer and ergo, a perfectly located and slightly oversized gasket hole.

Good stuff right there!!!

In a pinch a small ball peen hammer will suffice for the bearing ball.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #133  
For making washers like this

IMG_4417.jpg



Use something like this.







Hollow Punch Sets | Mayhew Steel Products, Inc. | The Pros Know
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #134  
Like most I don't use sealer with a gasket. It like using glue on tape. :rolleyes: Greasing a gasket means no scrape when removed and likely to be re-used when coming off in one piece. I've used #2 grease on all fiber gaskets since the '60s and do to this day on thermostat housings, carb bases, cyl bases, primary covers, water pumps, and others we DIY.

One exception has been head gaskets where anti-seize is preferred or nothing at all. All my motorbikes and past MX bikes are/were air-cooled and I've had heads off more of them than not.

Piloon, thanks for the BB transfer tip! :thumbsup: I have to cut a head gasket for a 2 cyl compressor head. Taper of the bolt holes confounds precise location for them, and when greasing the part (like inking it) I didn't get a great transfer onto gasket stock. It's easy to cut out for the reeds, not so much to 'locate' for the bolts and not be sloppy about it.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #135  
I would most likely fumble and the ball bearing would fall into the intake manifold....
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #136  
I organize my drawers into categories. Like in one drawer all types of screwdrivers and other pointy things like drift punches, that sort of stuff. Another has all the measuring stuff like calipers, rulers and measuring tape, various gauges, etc. One is all sorts of abrasives, files, sand paper and other stuff like that. And then another has all the grippy stuff like vice grips, pliers, adjustable wrenches, etc. So I do it like that, just so it's easy to put stuff away to keep organized, open a drawer and toss it in.

I did a similar method but my drawers are heavy plastic "cross-stack" tubs.
You can cross-stack them 3-high and strap them down in the pickup bed.

For example one tub has all my copper fittings, solder, brushes etc, I can take the drawer out and its a tub with everything that goes to the 'job site'.
It's been a couple years now, very happy with how this has worked out.
Van slide out all the bottom tubs and sweep the floor.
Also easily retrieve the socket that rolled under.

516714d1501223079-building-workbench-cross-stack-plastic-workbench_drawerslides_top_done72-jpg


Thread here: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...building-workbench-cross-stack-plastic-3.html
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #137  
I did a similar method but my drawers are heavy plastic "cross-stack" tubs.
You can cross-stack them 3-high and strap them down in the pickup bed.

For example one tub has all my copper fittings, solder, brushes etc, I can take the drawer out and its a tub with everything that goes to the 'job site'.
It's been a couple years now, very happy with how this has worked out.
Van slide out all the bottom tubs and sweep the floor.
Also easily retrieve the socket that rolled under.

516714d1501223079-building-workbench-cross-stack-plastic-workbench_drawerslides_top_done72-jpg


Thread here: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...building-workbench-cross-stack-plastic-3.html

I really like that setup
 

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