Smart Shop tips!

   / Smart Shop tips! #122  
For those who use rattle cans and hate the shaking, if you own a sawzall, take a 12" blade and some hose clamps and make your own mechanical shaker! Have used duct tape and also electrical tape in a pinch. Sure is quicker and easier for those of us dealing with Arthritis!

This probably works well with full sized sawzalls, but the hand held versions might shake almost as much as the can does. I've been using the small versions (one battery powered) for awhile and they take a bit more of a grip to accomplish the same task as the full sized one due to less weight. I'll have to try this next time I need to shake a can to see how the small sawzall does.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #123  
I see used corded reciprocating saws for sale cheap often. Perhaps mount one permanently somewhere set up as a dedicated rattle can shaker.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #124  
Where do you get the stickers? I see them on tool boxes all the time but don't remember being given any. Maybe I toss them without thinking about it.

You get stickers by spending a lot of money online ordering "stuff". Most companies throw a couple in the box. Mine are mostly Jeep Offroad Parts oriented. Did I mention a LOT of money?
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #125  
You get stickers by spending a lot of money online ordering "stuff". Most companies throw a couple in the box. Mine are mostly Jeep Offroad Parts oriented. Did I mention a LOT of money?

Change your username to ovrspnd .
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #126  
That痴 actually a good tip. I have 2 ATVs, both with leaky petcock valves. Replaced both but they still leak (stupid cork gasket design). I知 going to try your silicone grease idea.
The problem with cork gaskets is that they are easy to over tighten. I got my hand slapped and my ego bruised went my first boss in aviation caught me tightening valve cover gaskets on a Lycoming with an open end wrench on hex flats of my screw driver. I always remembered, after that, too much torque is a bad thing.

Too much silicone on the inner side of the gasket can break off and clog grease passages. I think he meant wheel bearing grease. It keeps the gasket in place while tightening up the fasteners.

Old Crisco lard works well too. I like to use old Crisco to hold small, hard to start nuts on my finger tip, when there is no room for two fingers. Harder on your finger's skin, but a more modern practice is super glue the nut to your finger tip.
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #127  
The problem with cork gaskets is that they are easy to over tighten. I got my hand slapped and my ego bruised went my first boss in aviation caught me tightening valve cover gaskets on a Lycoming with an open end wrench on hex flats of my screw driver. I always remembered, after that, too much torque is a bad thing.

Too much silicone on the inner side of the gasket can break off and clog grease passages. I think he meant wheel bearing grease. It keeps the gasket in place while tightening up the fasteners.

Old Crisco lard works well too. I like to use old Crisco to hold small, hard to start nuts on my finger tip, when there is no room for two fingers. Harder on your finger's skin, but a more modern practice is super glue the nut to your finger tip.
hugs, Brandi

I’ll keep that in mind. I’ve read silicone grease is what people tend to use on carb gaskets?
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #128  
I’ll keep that in mind. I’ve read silicone grease is what people tend to use on carb gaskets?

Form-a-gasket, or (later) Blue silicone was used by me lots of times on iffy used gaskets, on my own machines. It's just too easy to leave an unseen large blob inside. I love my Cummins and Mahindra when I open something up and only see an oring. Orings are the cat's meow of sealing.
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #129  
Form-a-gasket, or (later) Blue silicone was used by me lots of times on iffy used gaskets, on my own machines. It's just too easy to leave an unseen large blob inside.


Agreed! I still do on occasion but I try not to.
 

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