Smart Shop tips!

   / Smart Shop tips! #131  
I had posted grease 4 gaskets, I always used 'dyno' grease as if it oozed inwards on carb gaskets the gas would simply dissolve it.

'nother tip is to use plain cardboard to cut gaskets and bearing balls to punch/locate the fastener holes.
U gently place the ball over the fastener hole and give a slight tap with a hammer and ergo, a perfectly located and slightly oversized gasket hole.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #132  
'nother tip is to use plain cardboard to cut gaskets and bearing balls to punch/locate the fastener holes.
U gently place the ball over the fastener hole and give a slight tap with a hammer and ergo, a perfectly located and slightly oversized gasket hole.

Good stuff right there!!!

In a pinch a small ball peen hammer will suffice for the bearing ball.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #133  
For making washers like this

IMG_4417.jpg



Use something like this.







Hollow Punch Sets | Mayhew Steel Products, Inc. | The Pros Know
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #134  
Like most I don't use sealer with a gasket. It like using glue on tape. :rolleyes: Greasing a gasket means no scrape when removed and likely to be re-used when coming off in one piece. I've used #2 grease on all fiber gaskets since the '60s and do to this day on thermostat housings, carb bases, cyl bases, primary covers, water pumps, and others we DIY.

One exception has been head gaskets where anti-seize is preferred or nothing at all. All my motorbikes and past MX bikes are/were air-cooled and I've had heads off more of them than not.

Piloon, thanks for the BB transfer tip! :thumbsup: I have to cut a head gasket for a 2 cyl compressor head. Taper of the bolt holes confounds precise location for them, and when greasing the part (like inking it) I didn't get a great transfer onto gasket stock. It's easy to cut out for the reeds, not so much to 'locate' for the bolts and not be sloppy about it.
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #135  
I would most likely fumble and the ball bearing would fall into the intake manifold....
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #136  
I organize my drawers into categories. Like in one drawer all types of screwdrivers and other pointy things like drift punches, that sort of stuff. Another has all the measuring stuff like calipers, rulers and measuring tape, various gauges, etc. One is all sorts of abrasives, files, sand paper and other stuff like that. And then another has all the grippy stuff like vice grips, pliers, adjustable wrenches, etc. So I do it like that, just so it's easy to put stuff away to keep organized, open a drawer and toss it in.

I did a similar method but my drawers are heavy plastic "cross-stack" tubs.
You can cross-stack them 3-high and strap them down in the pickup bed.

For example one tub has all my copper fittings, solder, brushes etc, I can take the drawer out and its a tub with everything that goes to the 'job site'.
It's been a couple years now, very happy with how this has worked out.
Van slide out all the bottom tubs and sweep the floor.
Also easily retrieve the socket that rolled under.

516714d1501223079-building-workbench-cross-stack-plastic-workbench_drawerslides_top_done72-jpg


Thread here: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...building-workbench-cross-stack-plastic-3.html
 
   / Smart Shop tips! #137  
I did a similar method but my drawers are heavy plastic "cross-stack" tubs.
You can cross-stack them 3-high and strap them down in the pickup bed.

For example one tub has all my copper fittings, solder, brushes etc, I can take the drawer out and its a tub with everything that goes to the 'job site'.
It's been a couple years now, very happy with how this has worked out.
Van slide out all the bottom tubs and sweep the floor.
Also easily retrieve the socket that rolled under.

516714d1501223079-building-workbench-cross-stack-plastic-workbench_drawerslides_top_done72-jpg


Thread here: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...building-workbench-cross-stack-plastic-3.html

I really like that setup
 

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