Sharpening chainsaws

[BlueKnife]

Pretty much any method of sharpening a chainsaw could work with enough experience. I think the learning curve for an average guy to pickup on was the whole point of the video.

True. Then I wish he had at least included some decent hand files instead of those garbage Chinese ones.

 

[BnRidge]

Taking the depth gauges right down to the top of the links is going to cut a little faster in a long kerf, if you have the horsepower to pull it, but would make the thing totally unusable (if not)

I have a chain, brand new, ms462, 24in, rakers filed to .60-.07, and, unusable, all grabby and wonderful. I wonder how short of a bar it would take to get it to pull through. A 2:1 sharpens really well with slight sideways pressure, and really poorly with excess downward pressure.

 

[4570Man]

Taking the depth gauges right down to the top of the links is going to cut a little faster in a long kerf, if you have the horsepower to pull it, but would make the thing totally unusable in any cut lacking a flat kerf at least 3 cutters long (e.g. 1.5" for 3/8" chain). Rock that chain a bit in the kerf, or put it onto a branch that's only 4" diameter with a curvature too great to catch 2-3 cutters, and it's just going to grab and stall.

You’re talking way beyond practical hp to pull a chain with the rakers gone. I don’t use a depth gauge on the rakers and just bump them on the bench grinder every now and then. The grinder leaves visible scratches across the raker that start to polish off with use. I usually won’t grind them again until the previous scratches are mostly polished off. A 16” diameter log can easily stall a 500i if I get them too low. You can control the saw enough that it’s not grabbing all day but you can’t pivot it full force off the dogs either.

 

[WinterDeere]

You’re talking way beyond practical hp to pull a chain with the rakers gone. I don’t use a depth gauge on the rakers and just bump them on the bench grinder every now and then. A 16” diameter log can easily stall a 500i if I get them too low. You can control the saw enough to work but you can’t pivot it full force off the dogs either.

I've done a lot of milling with 0.5 - 3 tpi hook tooth blades on a bandsaw, and I'd expect the same rules there to roughly apply, when using a chain with the depth gauges removed. Generally speaking it becomes a self-limiting mechanism, as soon as you have 3 or more teeth in the kerf.

Depth gauges set at .025 may cut a little slower than .035, but taking them down to .100 probably isn't 3x faster than .035, as one tooth begins to act as the depth gauge for the next.

I haven't tested this, but that's what I'd expect, having spent more time at a bandsaw than most. For me, just taking the depth gauges down .01 below factory gets the job done at a speed/hp compromise that keeps me and my saws happy.

 

[Diwali]

I don't really enjoy sharpening chainsaw chains. Does anyone have tips on sharpening as well as a good file? Also does anyone use carbide tipped chainsaw chains. Were they worth your money? Thanks!

It doesn’t excite me much either!
In the UK I have used a company that takes your old chain and sends you a matching refurbished one for a reasonable fee. Works for me as I don’t do a lot of sawing.

 

[DigDoug]

Check out the Stihl/ Pferd 2 in 1 files, makes quick work of filing and is pretty easy to do. As for carbide chains, if you dont enjoy sharpening you will really hate carbide.

the Stihl 2 in 1 is the easiest / quickest and does a great job after you learn how to do it, takes a bit of practice. Dremel takes too long for me. Either way, it’s a tedious task and a dull blade is useless.

 

[John_Mc]

The Stihl 2-in-1 (basically a relabeled Pferd Chainsharp CS-X) is probably the easiest to learn and the quickest to use (adjusting the depth gauges at the same time was a great idea by Pferd). It gets good results as long as the user pays attention to a couple of things: keep the tool moving in a straight line when filing and use appropriate pressure. Too many new users drop their hand down as they make the stroke (tipping the opposite end of the file up) or swing the end of the file left/right. Using 2 hands on the tool can help avoid this, though it does mean using a vise or some other method to hold the saw still while sharpening. Those with a bit of experience, can get the same results filing one-handed, but the two handed method is a great way to build the muscle memory of what a proper filing stroke should be.

The Husqvarna roller guides can take a bit more practice to get the hang of. However, once you get the hang of it, they get better results. They do require filing the depth gauges separately, but that is also part of the better results: the progressive depth gauge tool is just a better way of setting the depth, customizing each raker to the tooth which follows it. (rather than bridging 2 or more teeth as some other depth gauge tools do.)

 

[BnRidge]

I've done a lot of milling with 0.5 - 3 tpi hook tooth blades on a bandsaw, and I'd expect the same rules there to roughly apply, when using a chain with the depth gauges removed. Generally speaking it becomes a self-limiting mechanism, as soon as you have 3 or more teeth in the kerf.

Depth gauges set at .025 may cut a little slower than .035, but taking them down to .100 probably isn't 3x faster than .035, as one tooth begins to act as the depth gauge for the next.

I would differ on that. A band blade and saw chain are completely different. On a chain, each tooth acts independently based on it's depth tooth height. Three teeth in a row isn't relevent. Tooth lenghts can be all over the place as long as the depth for each is set correctly.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

Normally I'm a fan of his videos and he generally does a good job, IMO. In this video though, he screwed up by not having a quality hand file operated by an experienced user in the mix.

Actually, the average guy, not a professional, needs to know what will work best for him. If you aren't a pro, it doesn't matter if a hand file is better, in the hands of a pro. What matters is what you can personally utilize best.

 

[TugHillDog]

I have a Harbor Freight grinder, it does a good job. I do like the idea of the Dremel method though. And I should real try to get proficient at using a file. But I always have at least 2 sharp chains with me so I have never run into a situation where I needed to do it.

I have one also. I hand file most of the time as I get pretty decent results; I would self-grade my hand filing at about 80%. When I get a highly damaged chain [accidental dirt dig or hidden steel in a log], I will pull out the electric grinder. And I have found that even after getting the chain back with the electric, a few hand file strokes seem to e worth the extra time.

 

[ClinchfieldPaul]

I don't really enjoy sharpening chainsaw chains. Does anyone have tips on sharpening as well as a good file? Also does anyone use carbide tipped chainsaw chains. Were they worth your money? Thanks!

I’ve found the that the raker/depth gauge is as important as a sharp tooth to get a good cut with lots of chips. To big of a difference in the tooth and raker, if your saw doesn’t have the power it will bog down or get stuck. To little and you get saw dust I agree the stihl 2 in 1 file will get it right unless you want to be more aggressive and hand file the raker separately. There are plenty of opinions and instructions in YouTube. I enjoy filing myself.

 

[xyz123]

When I ask them when their filing their chain why it dont cut for them. I ask did you check and adjust rakers as needed. None do.

You wouldnt believe the cutters out there that dont even know about the raker depth gage on the chain it self.

No wonder. So I give quick examples how easy it is.

This stuff is not rocket science just sharpen your chains and adjust as needed. No complicated gadgets needed.

Always inspect your chains too. Found this a coulle times on chains that come in. For me easy peasy. Break and mend.

 

[vanskills]

I just wait till I have like 10 full and drop them off at ACE hardware…I’ll gladly pay the fee

 

[John_Mc]

I just wait till I have like 10 full and drop them off at ACE hardware…I’ll gladly pay the fee

The problem with that strategy is that the flunkies in the local hardware stores around here have no idea what they are doing. I suspect they had about 15 minutes of training. They often take off way too much, wasting chain life, or overheat some of the cutters, making it almost impossible to touch up with a file when working in the woods.

 

[repete]

Living in the PNW, chainsaws are plentiful. Here is a link to a dealer in town with a pretty good tip page.

Chainsaw Tips & Tricks | Madsen's Shop

Madsen's specializes in serving professional chain saw users. If you make your living with a chain saw -- or just want the kind of tools or garments used by some of the hardest working people on the planet, Madsen's is for you.

www.madsens1.com

 

[Runner]

I know a guy who throws away chains when they get dull and buys new ones. Funny thing is, in other ways, he's the most frugal person you would ever know... won't buy new cars or tractors, buys clothes at Wally World, etc.

 

[Hermio]

Stihl 2 in 1 is amazing, you won't hate sharpening anymore.

Ditto

 

[WinterDeere]

I would differ on that. A band blade and saw chain are completely different. On a chain, each tooth acts independently based on it's depth tooth height. Three teeth in a row isn't relevent. Tooth lenghts can be all over the place as long as the depth for each is set correctly.
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I think you just called @Fuddyduddy1952 a liar? After all, he says he has already done this!

I'm just trying to reason out how it worked, while you're saying it won't.

 

[kioti28527]

I don't really enjoy sharpening chainsaw chains. Does anyone have tips on sharpening as well as a good file? Also does anyone use carbide tipped chainsaw chains. Were they worth your money? Thanks!

I actually dont mind sharpening mine by hand,it becomes second nature and muscle memory after awhile,start slow,pay attention to your angles with the line on the chain as well as curve of the tooth up and down,when you have a brand new chain lay the file in the tooth and fitted tight notice how the file sits in the correct position,after you practice on a few worn chains you can start to feel and know as you "push" the file,never pull it back towards you trying to sharpen,push against the gullet and a slight twist CW slowly not like a monkey with a football,and after a few it just becomes 2nd nature,a vise holding the bar is best and they make a small vise you can carry with you that you tap into a stump or log to hold it secure,also make sure your chain tension is correct so the chain isnt twisting around while you sharpen and most of all dont let it get totally dull before attempting to sharpen we all know by exp when its not cutting and we start to "help the saw cut"dont do that,i will stop occasionally and what i call kiss it with the file to keep it happy

 

[glenintenn]

feels like (wallet-wise), "I've tried EVERYTHING" ... I'm back to the simple Oregon Tools hand sharpener with the 25 and 30 degree guide lines on them -- all the other stuff, dremel tools, $80 "Stihl" multi-sharpeners, harbor freight electric jobs, Granberg/Rube Goldberg style sharpeners -- nice ideas, but simply a waste of time and money in my book. Once you get a feel for the file biting into the cutters and actually sharpening, the guide keeps it at the right depth and "close enough" if you keep the angle anywhere near the recommendation for your chain.

Biggest time-saver of all? Keep your blade out of the dirt -- avoid cutting the dirt-down/dirty side of the log outside in... unavoidable at times but you can save plenty of sharpening time with a little care.

Simpler is good. Maybe the simple handheld guide is Occam's razor (razor-sharp chains) applied to chainsaws?