You will want the space then, for sure.But in 9 years, haven't moved any stones out for any reason, so the next chance I have extra 'crete, it will go in the ballast box.
Ballast Question on ballast box
- Thread starter Henri88
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UnclePaul
Bronze Member
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A cheap way to make a ballast box is get a 30 or 55 gallon drum and a drawl bar hitch cut two holes in the drum to let the drawl bar hitch go through. depending on how much weight you want and what size drum you use. You can cut the drum down. Last you get a piece of c channel steel and drill a hole in it to fit your top link into. fasten the c channel to the drawl bar by welding or you can turn the drawl bar hitch and just bolt the c channel to it. Then just pour the concrete.
ElDorado
Silver Member
I agree with Uncle Paul. I used a 55 gallon drum and cut it down. I left it 6 inches hirer than the level of the concrete and notched for the top link. This space left an area to carry "stuff"- chain, chainsaw, tools for the job, etc.. I let it go with the last tractor when I sold it, wish now I hadn't oh well. I like the idea of using some scrap pipe to hold tools. I'll go that way with the next ballast barrel.
kennyd
Advertiser
Us JD guy's like pretty things, not just practical ones:laughing::laughing::laughing:
Barely Smokin'
Silver Member
I guess I'll remain the odd man out on this one. I know whatcha mean about side-swiping a car, though. Haven't done it yet, but I can visualize it, for sure. But if I can get the FEL through there, I can get the BB through there. More worried about the rear blade or mower, for that matter. Or log splitter!
I guess if I'm going to spend X on a ballast box, I'd rather spend X on an implement that isn't, literally, dead weight. Maybe a bush hog or a tooth bar or a DVD player with a beer holder or something.
But, like I said previously, I can't outlift my BB---even with my pallet forks---so, for me, I don't need the weight. And as far as hitting things in the woods, I'm satisifed to let 'er bash away.
Don't mean to be contrary and it sounds like you guys have your reasons. But maybe I can persuade a newer owner to join me on the dark side...
I guess if I'm going to spend X on a ballast box, I'd rather spend X on an implement that isn't, literally, dead weight. Maybe a bush hog or a tooth bar or a DVD player with a beer holder or something.
But, like I said previously, I can't outlift my BB---even with my pallet forks---so, for me, I don't need the weight. And as far as hitting things in the woods, I'm satisifed to let 'er bash away.
Don't mean to be contrary and it sounds like you guys have your reasons. But maybe I can persuade a newer owner to join me on the dark side...
Runner
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"Just out of curiosity, guys, why do you all use ballast boxes instead of just a heavy attachment, like a box blade, that has an additional use?"
For me, the ballast box is the heaviest thing I have, so if I need max counterweight, I'll select the box. However, my rear mower weighs 675 lbs (and its weight is set farther back), so if it's on there, I'll just use it for ballast. Similarly, if I'm spreading gravel or grading, I'll just use the box blade for ballast, because I'll also probably be using it for the grading also.
I just like having a ballast box for those times when the compactness matters, such as plowing snow or maybe using my boom pole in a tight spot.
Put simply, it's just another tool in the toobox...
For me, the ballast box is the heaviest thing I have, so if I need max counterweight, I'll select the box. However, my rear mower weighs 675 lbs (and its weight is set farther back), so if it's on there, I'll just use it for ballast. Similarly, if I'm spreading gravel or grading, I'll just use the box blade for ballast, because I'll also probably be using it for the grading also.
I just like having a ballast box for those times when the compactness matters, such as plowing snow or maybe using my boom pole in a tight spot.
Put simply, it's just another tool in the toobox...
mjncad
Super Member
Echoing Roy Jackson, I use sand in my ballast box as I can use it for traction on slick surfaces. I keep a military folding shovel jammed into the sand for just that purpose.
Also I like the box's compactness, especially if you are building a berm. As you climb the berm, an implement hanging far off the rear end will hang up on the ground, a ballast box won't unless you have your 3PH dropped to its lowest point.
Also I like the box's compactness, especially if you are building a berm. As you climb the berm, an implement hanging far off the rear end will hang up on the ground, a ballast box won't unless you have your 3PH dropped to its lowest point.
beenthere
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I think of it this way, Snow Plow Blade/Ballast Box = One Implement or FEL/Ballast Box = One Implement, or Front Fork/Ballast Box = One Implement
JDGreenGrass
Veteran Member
No way do I want a bulky attachment following me around when I am doing loader work.
The BB hangs close to my rear tires, is very compact and it is really a no brainer....it's the ideal tool designed to improve the overall performance of a tractor when when moving heavy loads.
And, they around $200. Don't think you can get a 600lb. attachment for as little money.
srs
Veteran Member
I have a B3030 cabbed tractor with loaded rear turfs. What would be the maximum or ideal weight for a ballast box without doing damage to the tractor? I know this might sound like a dumb question (yes I know there are no dumb questions) but is there a chart somewhere that says xx amount is the maximum or ideal weight for a ballast box? Does this make sense?
kennyd
Advertiser
In your operators manual, it should list the required rear ballast. I know the JD manuals do...
:thumbsup:
When I was moving across the street to the new house 2 1/2 years ago I had a new B3030HSDCC recently delivered & an empty balast box. I needed something for weight in there & also found I needed a place to store old tire chains & tow chains. Those chains are handy to have with sometimes. If you get a little stuck just lay some chain at the tires for extra traction. It works pretty good as long as you don't dig yourself in real deep before you lay the chain down. And the chain is handy for securing things in the FEL bucket.
srs
Veteran Member
Duh! Thanks Kenny, didn't even think to do that.
OP
Henri88
Platinum Member
Sorry guys for not responding earlier. Had to leave unexpectedly. Anyway, was very surprise and please to see all these responds and ideas from so many members. After reading every answers, (4 time) this is what I think I'm going to do. My 2 front implement are fel and snowblower. The fel is the one that needs the most ballast, but the snowblower needs a little less since to much weight will makes it lose front traction when I want to turn with the blower on the float position. So I will add cement to the ballast box halfway to 3/4 and use something else for extra weight when it comes to the fel. Will also add the receiver tube for a hitch and the pvc pipe to carry some garden tools around. I also think the plastic liner inside is not a bad idea. So here a few question
JB4310, any particular reason why you have the pvc pipe so high? I was thinking of making mine a couple of inches above the concrete to minimize the risk of breaking the pipes. And could you or anyone explain to me roughly what is a ''dimpled board''? I also have to make sure that no dirt goes inside those pipe and clogs the drain holes. Wouldn't it be better to drill a drain hole just above the concrete instead of in the pipe? Anyway guys, I appreciate your impute.:thumbsup: Its nice to have people giving there experience, good or bad. Helps your friendly neighborhood not to do the same mistake. Henri
Anyway, was very surprise and please to see all these responds and ideas from so many members. After reading every answers, (4 time) this is what I think I'm going to do. My 2 front implement are fel and snowblower. The fel is the one that needs the most ballast, but the snowblower needs a little less since to much weight will makes it lose front traction when I want to turn with the blower on the float position. So I will add cement to the ballast box halfway to 3/4 and use something else for extra weight when it comes to the fel. Will also add the receiver tube for a hitch and the pvc pipe to carry some garden tools around. I also think the plastic liner inside is not a bad idea. So here a few questionJB4310, any particular reason why you have the pvc pipe so high? I was thinking of making mine a couple of inches above the concrete to minimize the risk of breaking the pipes. And could you or anyone explain to me roughly what is a ''dimpled board''? I also have to make sure that no dirt goes inside those pipe and clogs the drain holes. Wouldn't it be better to drill a drain hole just above the concrete instead of in the pipe? Anyway guys, I appreciate your impute.:thumbsup: Its nice to have people giving there experience, good or bad. Helps your friendly neighborhood not to do the same mistake.
Henri
chipsndust
Platinum Member
Barely:
I'll give you a little moral support!
When I bought my 2305, I also bought the 47" snowblower, FEL, and a Woods 48" box blade (have since accumulated other implements). The box blade has been a great implement for me, based on the uses I have for my tractor. I routinely use it for ballast with the FEL. I usually have a need for the BB when I'm using my FEL. I have not seen a need for ballast with the snowblower, and see no reason to spend money for another box which does nothing more than the box blade does.
So, I guess I'm "on the dark side" with you.
JB4310
Super Member
Sorry guys for not responding earlier. Had to leave unexpectedly.
JB4310, any particular reason why you have the pvc pipe so high? I was thinking of making mine a couple of inches above the concrete to minimize the risk of breaking the pipes. And could you or anyone explain to me roughly what is a ''dimpled board''? I also have to make sure that no dirt goes inside those pipe and clogs the drain holes. Wouldn't it be better to drill a drain hole just above the concrete instead of in the pipe? Anyway guys, I appreciate your impute.:thumbsup: Its nice to have people giving there experience, good or bad. Helps your friendly neighborhood not to do the same mistake.
Did you get a time out?
I have the pipes high for more support, not sure if it's necessary and your right they could break easier that's why maybe steel pipe would be better.
A dimple board is just a piece of plastic that leaves a gap between the bottom of the concrete and the box bottom to allow drainage, when you have hole drilled in bottom of box, so any water that went down the pipe would have a path to drain out the bottom of the box.
JB.
OP
Henri88
Platinum Member
Got it. Thanks JB. What about drilling a hole on the side of the BB just above the cement for drainage. Would you recommend it?
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