3032E Fuel shut off

[dirtworkx7]

I'm helping a friend with a JD 3032E, maybe 2019. He couldn't start the tractor after last use and had a difficult time starting it on last use. He found the battery low and that it couldn't take a charge. He bought a new battery from a dealer and upon attempting to start it, smoke came out of the tractor. He doesn't know where, but somewhere around the firewall console area and stunk pretty bad. He immediately turned the key off and removed the negative battery terminal. At some point he put the terminal back on, but with the key off. This is where I started looking at the tractor. They had swapped K1 with K2 and had same results. I started visually inspecting where there might be a charred area and haven't found it. I inspected the wiring on the back side of the fuse and relay box. I found exposed ground wire from mice chewing on pin 85 from K1 to pin 85 to K3 which is the common ground for both relay coils on the fuel shut off relay and the glow plug relay. That was not this problem, but the wires were beginning to corrode. I mechanically spliced in a soldered piece of wire with adhesive heat shrink. It would have been a problem down the road. So far, I haven't found anything burned enough to correlate to his story. On that visit, I discovered the Fuel shut off relay K1 being continuously enabled on, with the Key switch turned off. I unplugged the connector to the fuel shut off solenoid and measured battery voltage on the plug side of the harness. Battery voltage was present on the white wire which comes from the K1 relay contacts at about 9.6vdc. I found about 8.6vdc on the red wire which is 302 off the cluster board. 522 which is the red wire from the cluster board had continuously energized K1 with the off contributing to draining the battery down sometime during the previous week prior me looking at the tractor. I bench tested the relay to make sure when the contact was closed that there was low impedance across the contact, which it was good. The used the manual as an initial check of the fuel solenoid to see it was good. They have you measure the ohms on both coils. The red wire spec is 32.5 ohms, and the white is .5 ohms. They measured 31 and .8 ohms respectively. It doesn't give a tolerance, but that may be respectable. I haven't removed it yet to bench test and observe the plunger. Turning the Key switch on dropped the voltage about .5 vdc on each wire. Other than cleaning the dirt from the area and inspecting that's all I did on that visit. 2nd visit I clamped the battery and found a 1.3 amp drawn with the Key switch off. We pulled the steering wheel off to remove the console housing to inspect the wiring harness and haven't found any visual burns in the wiring visual issues yet. While clamping the battery, I removed the light plug, Key switch plug, and turn signal plug with no change on current draw. The only thing that made a difference was removing J1 and J3 on the cluster board. I measured voltage on all pins of J1 and J3. I found battery voltage on J1 pin C 012B which comes from the battery. I found J1 pin F 522 off the cluster at 9.69vdc and 7.4 vdc with the Fuel shut off relay plugged in. When the Key switch is off, K1 should not be energized from the cluster. I checked the Key switch further since I've been told they short internally to pin 2 and 4. Pulling the plug off the Key switch didn't stop the current draw on the battery, but I checked the switch for continuity and checked for voltage on pin 2 and 4 anyway just to make sure voltage was shorted through while in the off position. One other thing that was discovered was the negative battery terminal was being taken on and off by my friend and the last time he put it on, he was struggling with getting it tight. I noticed that it was closed to tight and may have been that way since he replaced the battery prior me getting involved. Not making good contact on a high current draw like the starter windings, etc., may be part of the smoke story. Not sure. I got the bolt out and cleaned up the treads, then opened the terminal to get it to set on the battery post properly. On my next visit I plan to re verify the 1.3 amp draw off the battery with J1 and J3 connected off the cluster, then pull the 2 connectors and check current draw. If the 1.5 amp drops out, I'll put my meter in series with the battery to measure any parasitic current remaining. If so, then try and find what that may be, component, wiring, etc. I hope that someone that has experienced this problem and or has knowledge specifically on the JD 3032E could shed some light or any ideas. I would greatly appreciate it.
Thank you!

 

[beenthere]

Welcome to TBN

Are you working from a service tech manual for the 3032E ?

You apparently have a schematic that identifies the points you mention. i.e. swapping K1 and K2

 

[dirtworkx7]

Yes, my friend had purchased the digital version. I made a mistake referring to pins 2 and 4 on the Key switch in the previous post. I meant to say wasn't shorted through. It wasn't. The switch is good. I verified that again today. It was just something to check, because it would continuously put the controls in start, run or both modes all the time.