Power Broom build

[dfkrug]

Question for dfkrug... could you put the relief nearer the motor to avoid the problem of reducing the working pressure on the rest of the system... i.e. install the relief valve so that it is isolated when the motor valve is closed?

Yeah, that's right. It is a work port relief valve so it protects the circuit
only when activated (valve open).

With no work port RV, the broom is still protected by the system RV,
which at about 2500 psi may be a bit higher than ideal. My feeling is that
you can build the setup much simpler with no added RV for a broom. Here
is why: you are not going to hit a sudden damaging load with the
bristles of the broom. This is not a PHD or rototiller that can suddenly hit
an unmovable rock. If the broom is starting to see too much resistance
to a load, you should get some feedback from the tractor long before the
2500psi RV kicks in. So when you wrap up that stray 300 ft piece of
rope you left lying in the yard, you are going to want to shut down long
before it binds up in a 2-ft thick wad.

I prefer to design the system where the system RV is good enough for
the new hyd implement. 2000 psi motors are common and reasonably
priced; 2500psi motors are much more expensive. I recently waited a
long time for an inexpensive new White series 255 or 300 to come up on
eBay. I snagged a 8ci 300 series for only $80 for a new PHD I am
making. That motor easily handles the 2500 psi pressure my tractor
puts out.

As for flow rate, you can design for a certain ideal speed, then you have
the ability to "adjust" that quite a bit by the speed of the engine and
the travel speed range that you use. I would steer away from the added
complication of a flow diverter.

 

[kiotiken]

As for flow rate, you can design for a certain ideal speed, then you have
the ability to "adjust" that quite a bit by the speed of the engine and
the travel speed range that you use.

Wow, sometimes it's hard to see the forest through the trees. I was so focused on the gpm that I expected to have available that I missed the obvious, adjust the engine rpm. Same pressure, less flow.

 

[J_J]

If you are going to use a hyd motor relief, it should mounted close to the motor like this.

 

[Cantoo]

kioti, I took a few pics tonight of the end of mine just so you could see how one looks. The hoses are hooked together, this might have something to do with reverse but I have no idea. Some of the parts look pretty expensive though. Let me know if you need any more pics, these were taken in the dark and the last idiot that owned it painted everything black so can't read numbers or names off anything. This idiot never paints anything.
That is nuts for the used one in your link. I know my buddy Brindley had a few for sale in his yard and likely still has some. Brindley Auction Service

 

[Cantoo]

This one was on a pay loader or a backhoe.
I likely have a 100 pieces of equipment laying around, all very useful if I live to be 200 and healthy enough to make anything out of it all.

 

[aczlan]

The hoses are hooked together, this might have something to do with reverse but I have no idea.

That is a relief valve. If there is too much pressure on the pressure line, it will dump the excess fluid into the return line to avoid hurting the motor.

Aaron Z

 

[kiotiken]

Thanks Cantoo. Great pics, that gives me a picture of a chain drive system, close to what I had been thinking. Interesting that there is a relief valve there. Thanks for the link, that place is great, lots of stuff I've never seen before. I've got that one bookmarked!

 

[dfkrug]

I would never build something like this from scratch, buy used real cheap and make it new again. I have one that some poor guy spent big bucks to build and I bought it for peanuts so I could rob the new brushes off it.

I agree. This approach to a lot of customized implements modified to fit
your tractor is usually the most economic approach. You can also take
advantage of some of the engineering already done. UNLESS, of course,
someone wants to build from scratch (or plans) for the fun of it. Nothing
wrong with that.

Case in point: I built a CADDigger mini self-propelled excavator years ago,
but it makes better sense financially to buy and modify an existing hoe
attachment. You can currently get them quite cheap; way less than
what I paid for materials for the DIY scratch build.

 

[kiotiken]

Well, I would be building it for fun, but I've got many other projects I could be doing for fun, so I wouldn't be against buying one on the cheap and reconditioning it. The problem is I can't find a cheap used broom. I also don't think the materials for this are going to be too bad, although the hoses and fittings might make a liar out of me. The motors go on sale at Princess auto for around $100, I have a fair amount of the steel and it wouldn't cost much for what I need to buy and bearings, caster wheels, mounts etc shouldn't cost that much. The broom is a wash since any used "Cheap" sweeper won't have much of a broom left anyway. The killer could be the 30ft of hoses to go from the back to the broom and all the fittings to go along with it, but again, no broom will come with 30ft of hose, so other than the fittings, it's a bit of a wash there too. If I could find one like Cantoo for under $200, there's no doubt that's the route I'd take, but I've yet to see one under $2000 and new they're north of $4000, and I know I can build one just as well for a fraction of that.

 

[forgeblast]

Parts & Replacement Brushes for Superior Broom Self Propelled Street Sweeper Brooms for Construction Sites, Roads & Side Cast Sweepers.
found some replacement parts here, might help cost wise.