Hydraulic SSQA idea

[TMGT]

I didn't build that. Its someone else's video, but its something that I'd like to do to my machine. If you had to buy everything new, I'd say the total cost is well under $200. Probably under $100, especially if you use the $40 amazon actuator (current price is closer to $45 IIRC).

Yes I know, I wasn't sure if you had priced out all the components yet.

 

[Fallon]

Yes I know, I wasn't sure if you had priced out all the components yet.

Get the $120 actuator rather than $50 one. The cheap one is a bit to slow or weak, depending on which cheap one you get.

 

[TMGT]

Get the $120 actuator rather than $50 one. The cheap one is a bit to slow or weak, depending on which cheap one you get.

I definitely wouldn't cheap out on a linear actuator in that application, I already have my hyd. one so not in the market.

You need to hurry up and finish yours, the hard part is already done! You'll wonder why you waited once you use it.

 

[Fields_mj]

Yes I know, I wasn't sure if you had priced out all the components yet.

Gotcha, sorry. I did some initial pricing just to get a quick idea of what kind of budget I'd need. I think it could easily be done for $100. On the flip side of that coin, a person could go with an IP67 cylinder and add enough connectors, cable loom, machined hardware, and other features to get the budget up closer to $1k. It just depends on how fancy you want it and what you already have on hand. Personally, my budget would be $100, but I also think you could do it AND have it look good and still be well under $200.

 

[kered]

I use a manual ball valve on my trailer to switch between tip and brakes. The trailer is plugged into the tractor remote(proportional) so is operated from a handle in the cab. Both the tip cylinder and brake cylinder are single acting(heavy internal spring in the brake cylinder to release) The tip cylinder just relies on the weight of the body to lower it. Both work fine and the manual ball valve holds the pressure with no bleed down. Most John Deere's, especially the older ones are closed centre so that might help too.

 

[Renze]

I considered an electric one but just liked the idea of a manual one.

To me, it defeats the purpose. You either connect manually, or you connect hydraulic. If i have to leave my seat to turn the lever, i might as well turn the securing pin lever..

 

[5030]

As old as I am (76), I'll never become so lazy I have to have my SSQA pins automated to insert or remove. Manually engaging them gives you the opportunity to inspect everythimg to insure everything is 'kosher' up there...

 

[TMGT]

To me, it defeats the purpose. You either connect manually, or you connect hydraulic. If i have to leave my seat to turn the lever, i might as well turn the securing pin lever..

I don't think you understand, you don't have to get out of the seat operate the QA, only to switch from QA to remotes which you have to hook up manually anyway.

 

[jonsstihl]

it's the greatest thing since sliced bread. especially if you have to remove the loader attachment to fit in the shed. and as long as the attachment doesn't need the third function you just leave your valve set to the QA. Once you try it you will never go back.

 

[Renze]

I don't think you understand, you don't have to get out of the seat operate the QA, only to switch from QA to remotes which you have to hook up manually anyway.

Then why not hook up the bucket manually too, when youre out of your seat anyway ?

Its been 20 years since i built my QA, i have the 4th function on the valve block (from an old feed mixer) but to me it turned out it just isnt worth it.