pole barn insulation

[Zerk]

Since my trusses are 24" will use drywall lift to raise fiberglass bats, on a board. Done this before. Easy by yourself.

But my goal is not for heating it this year. Big torpedo heater will do for now.

My garage has r19 crossed by r30 bats.

 

[Zerk]

Anyone done 6 foot wide insulation? That is what I am curios about. Bookshelf would then be to hang sheets and stuff on wall.

 

[wolfpack2]

You could use either spray foam ($$$) or blow in cellulose or fiberglass. I have seen both used and the blown in is a simple DIY project. Put the OSB length wise and blow in the insulation in 4ft lifts filing the void between the outside wall and the OSB.

 

[boomer1025]

You could use either spray foam ($$$) or blow in cellulose or fiberglass. I have seen both used and the blown in is a simple DIY project. Put the OSB length wise and blow in the insulation in 4ft lifts filing the void between the outside wall and the OSB.

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:thumbsup:

 

[FatTire]

Spray foam has a lot of advantages over blow-in or batts. No settling, no condensation issues, effective air infiltration barrier, and it blocks rodents instead of providing a massive nesting habitat. We did blow-in cellulose in our car garage. We are soon going to do spray foam on our shop before covering the walls, hard foam (closed-cell) on the ceiling and open-cell on the walls. We are going to hire someone to do it.

 

[Zerk]

I don't think I will do blown in on the wall of metal building, due to moisture. Maybe if foamed first. Need a way to keep insulation off of metal. Plastic down or some kind of tyvec?

 

[Zerk]

I don't think I will do blown in on the wall of metal building, due to moisture. Maybe if foamed first. Need a way to keep insulation off of metal. Plastic down or some kind of tyvec?

 

[STx]

In a building with metal sheeting, I think the only "right" way to do it is spray foam. Metal building cause a lot of condensation, closed cell foam is an excellent moisture and air insulator and it will make your building more rigid.

I got a DIY kit and spray foamed the 14 x 24 Morgan building that we're using as a cabin and it made all the difference in the world. Just an inch of closed cell foam on the walls and roof with R13 and drywall on the walls (ceiling is still open) and we're able to keep it 70* inside when it's 100* outside with 1 12k BTU and 1 8k BTU window unit and they're cycling.

I would strongly suggest finding a way to do at least 1" of closed cell foam on walls and ceiling and then do batt or blown cellulose after that. This is one of those things that is REALLY difficult to change later so an area where you should not skimp on material just to save a few bucks now, the spray foam will pay for itself in time.

 

[Zerk]

Look at your garage wall. How much time would it take to clear it off in order to insulate?

This barn is fairly empty, it won't be for long. Which is why u want to walls, even just 1 or 2.

 

[tman1020]

I have come up with a unique way of insulating pole barns that you never seem to see many people do but it works very well. I purchase 1 1/2 in thick cheap white foam sheeting. I cut it to fit in between the sheet girts and wedge it in then I cover it with 7/16 OSB or Drywall or whatever you want. Gives you about R7 and works very well against radiant heat from the sun. Seals up nice so you don't have as much of a problem dealing with critters getting behind your false walls. Some people get all freaked out because it's only R 7 instead of R13 but then they have huge doors with only an inch of insulation in it. This method works well because most of your heat loss will be through openings around the door or out the ceiling anyways and this provides a very good thermal barrier against the hot sun and prevents many moisture related issues. You could always come back and add false walls after-the-fact if you find you need even more insulation but doubt you will.