NEW PROJECT

[R Barger]

You would think I would be tired of working on yanmars but instead I went today and bought another YM336d. It has 847hrs with a spun rod bearing. It don't seem to have ever had a bolt turned on it. If this turns out good I'll sell the other one.

 

[bmaverick]

Could you take the best of both and make a really nice one. The body panels look worn. It has an odd looking badge between the headlamps too. Is that common?

On the intake, is that a turbo? The exahust pipe has no flapper cover to keep out water, rats, birds and wasps.

 

[R Barger]

Could you take the best of both and make a really nice one. The body panels look worn. It has an odd looking badge between the headlamps too. Is that common?

On the intake, is that a turbo? The exahust pipe has no flapper cover to keep out water, rats, birds and wasps.

Thats the original paint and the original Yanmar emblem. Everything on this tractor is original except the muffler. The thing on the intake is the air filter. You have to remember this is not a gray market tractor. I agree with you about the flapper but since I'm going to tear the engine completely down I will be taking care of any problems.

 

[kenmac]

I would love to be able to come up with an original emblem.. Years ago,, Fredricks took them off or they were taken off in Japan (I don't remember which). If I can remember, I'll call tomorrow and see if they have any

 

[bmaverick]

Years back I was told by many that the Tractor Supply Stores sold Yanmar USA models until the John Deere deal came about making Yanmar only to offer tractors solely thru them starting around 1982.

 

[grainger12002]

That 336d looks like a good project, appears a nice find, are you finding these local ? You will have that up and running in no time, thanks again for sharing,maybe a pic or two of the lower end when you get it apart-

 

[R Barger]

That 336d looks like a good project, appears a nice find, are you finding these local ? You will have that up and running in no time, thanks again for sharing,maybe a pic or two of the lower end when you get it apart-

Found this one on Ebay and had to go 180 miles one way to pick up. Here is a few better pictures. It seems that only the one rod bearing was the problem. The engine looks like 847hrs inside. everything looks new.It doesn't look like an engine that has been run without oil. Maybe some thing blocked the oil galley on that rod.

 

[kenmac]

I guess it's time to drop the crank and make a trip to the machine shop. If you bought it right, you should be able to get some $$ for it

 

[R Barger]

I guess it's time to drop the crank and make a trip to the machine shop. If you bought it right, you should be able to get some $$ for it

If it turns out as good as I think it will I'll keep it and try to find a loader. I like my ym2002d but it is a little smaller than I need. The other 336 I have turned out to be a good tractor once I got the bugs out but this one is a nicer one.

 

[kenmac]

I couldn't tell by the pics.. Will you have to replace the rod as well as turn the crank. I have owned drag cars, and when my engine turned a bearing, it usually also screwed up the rod

 

[grainger12002]

looks very clean RB, not wasting any time on this one either !! Mine has just turned 1600 hours, its got a yanmar loader on it, ikts a handy size tractor

 

[R Barger]

I couldn't tell by the pics.. Will you have to replace the rod as well as turn the crank. I have owned drag cars, and when my engine turned a bearing, it usually also screwed up the rod

Not sure about the rod. The rod cap didn't look to bad. I'll know more when I get it broke down. Now I have to clean out my shop so I can get it inside. May take a while.

 

[R Barger]

I managed to get the tractor in the shop yesterday and will start tearing it down this week. I noticed someone has replaced one front rim that will only fit dish out. I need to try and find an original rim to match the other one. As a last resort I know Hoye has new ones but I would like to find an original one. Anyone know if you turn one rod journal does all the journals have to be turned to match?

 

[Pepsiboy]

I managed to get the tractor in the shop yesterday and will start tearing it down this week. I noticed someone has replaced one front rim that will only fit dish out. I need to try and find an original rim to match the other one. As a last resort I know Hoye has new ones but I would like to find an original one. Anyone know if you turn one rod journal does all the journals have to be turned to match?

R Barger,

From my days rebuilding auto engines, I USUALLY had them all turned to keep things equal. It isn't REQUIRED, so if you are trying to save money, just turn the one. If you are going to reuse the rod, just make sure you know haw far the rod journal was turned so you can get the right oversize bearing. Make sure you clean out the oil passages in the crank and PRELUBE all the bearings with lithium grease. Also, what I used to do was to prime the oil system after assembly. There are SEVERAL ways to do this, but I'm not sure which would be the way on your engine.:confused3: Good luck with the GREAT find. :thumbsup: :2cents:

Dave

 

[R Barger]

Thanks for the info. The rod journal that is damaged is the last one to receive oil and it seems all the other beariings are good. I suspect a blocked oil galley. I'll know more when I get it tore down. I'm not really pinching pennies but if the other bearings are not worn why spend the money[847hrs]. I'm planning to prime using the decompression feature before starting.

 

[Pepsiboy]

Thanks for the info. The rod journal that is damaged is the last one to receive oil and it seems all the other beariings are good. I suspect a blocked oil galley. I'll know more when I get it tore down. I'm not really pinching pennies but if the other bearings are not worn why spend the money[847hrs]. I'm planning to prime using the decompression feature before starting.

R Barger,

Is there a way for you to turn the oil pump from outside the engine?? If so, this would be the PREFERED way to prime the oil system. On gas engines, I would leave the distributor out after assembly and use a stub shaft and a drill to turn the oil pump and VERIFY that there was oil pressure. :2cents:

Dave

 

[R Barger]

Not sure about turning oil pump from outside. Started the tear down today. The crank is just as I thought it would be with one journal bad and the rest of the crank okay. The sleeves look good but all three pistons were cracked between the ring grooves. Going to pull the crank and take it to the machine shop and see if it can be turned. If not then I'll have to have it built back up and turned down to standard or buy a new crank.I'm going to replace the rod where the bearing spun. Here are some pictures.

 

[normde2001]

Not necessary as long as you use assembly lube and fill the oil filter with oil. Decomp works just fine.

 

[jb92563]

Found this one on Ebay and had to go 180 miles one way to pick up. Here is a few better pictures. It seems that only the one rod bearing was the problem. The engine looks like 847hrs inside. everything looks new.It doesn't look like an engine that has been run without oil. Maybe some thing blocked the oil galley on that rod

What are the symptoms of a spun (seized ?) rod bearing. Is the crank hard to turn or is the entire engine acting like its seized?

Does it run but make a distinctive sound?

I just wanted to know for the next bargain tractor that comes along so I can diagnose it and decide whether its a deal or not. I passed up a nice Massey Ferguson already with a spun bearing at a huge discount. Practically giving it away.

 

[normde2001]

"What are the symptoms of a spun (seized ?) rod bearing. Is the crank hard to turn or is the entire engine acting like its seized?

Does it run but make a distinctive sound?"

Yes.