New kubota tractor advice

[Bullwinkle123]

Having spent my autumn picking rocks out of my field, if the rock is of medium/small size and visible, I can grapple it out. If it's a big/awkward/partially buried thing then my grapple does a terrible job, and I have to fetch the pallet forks to dig. I wonder of those stump buckets are good at digging up rocks.

 

[fried1765]

I keep feel like I’m missing something here. Why would you not just dig around a rock with the FEL, expose most of it, and pop it out of the ground. I keep seeing all this stuff about a grapple. A grapple isn’t going to pluck it out of the ground if most of its buried, maybe you can slide under and pluck it out. I’m not knocking a grapple, they are just pricey and I think for getting rocks out the FEL will work fine.

I actually think using a loader to dig out rocks is a terrible idea!
A grapple on a loader, is not a much better idea either!
A loader is for loading/lifting as the name indicates.
A loader/tractor, is for loading and/or pulling...not digging!
Backhoes & excavators are for digging!

 

[Reg]

Fun trick with "boulders too big to dig" is to put pallet forks on.
Set to about half the width of the rock, set the forks verical and push 'em in just in front of the rock - down presure if you need it, curl/dump a few times to settle it in.
You may only be able to "pop" it - actual removal may require dragging, etc.

As with everything - there are limits (-g:

 

[dodge man]

Fried1765, I never said it was a good idea, but I’m one those people who work with what I’ve got. If I had 10 rocks to get out, I’d get them out with my tractor. If I had a 1000 rocks to get out I’d let them be or hire it done.

 

[fried1765]

Fried1765, I never said it was a good idea, but I’m one those people who work with what I’ve got. If I had 10 rocks to get out, I’d get them out with my tractor. If I had a 1000 rocks to get out I’d let them be or hire it done.

Unfortunately, it only takes one mistake with a loader to put a forever twist in it.

 

[K5lwq]

Unfortunately, it only takes one mistake with a loader to put a forever twist in it.

So if you make the same mistake on the other side will it fix it? Doesn't two wrongs always makes a right?

 

[thunder86]

I went with L4701 with BH 92 hoe very pleased with its capabilities ran JD 410 BH,Ford 555 and Case 530CK this Kubota pound for pound is my Orange Little Beast !!! I’ve removed 100s of trees with 4701 and dug the stumps out obviously chainsawed bigger trees first.Personally I think you’ll get better leverage with hoe vs grapple I just use pallet forks to move trees and debris my tree work is winding down grapple great for picking up loose debris just didn’t appeal to me as much as BH.

Awesome. Do you feel a bxexpanded ripper would help with stumps?

 

[thunder86]

Alright so I've watched a lot of videos and priced a lot of tractors. I know this is smaller but for the same monthly payment as I have now I can get a L2501 with a backhoe. Yes an MX could pull a 3" or 4" tree out of ground with a chain and handle the terrain better while working with loader. But if I had a backhoe would I even need a 4,000 pound tractor? I'd just dig everything out. I like the idea of using a ripper and would expect good results on trees 6" diameter or less. My total projects of tree removal would be 3 acres along a path that a dozer made years ago. I would be widening it considerally and it probably totals 3 acres. 3 different trails in the woods. Advice wise at worst for 6" diameter tree how long would it take this setup to dig it out? If years, forget it I'll hire out.

Disc harrow would be used in a field that's already been tilled the previous year and only using the disc on tilled ground. From what I looked up I could pull around a 800 pound disc.

I do have drainage issues in the field from a collapsed culvert. I need to dig culvert out and backfill where it washed ground out into the field. I may also need to install drain tile.

Rocks, my backhoe should handle them I would assume with ease.

I would my box blade to till in the woods plots.

At some point I'll need to put in a another 18
inch culvert when I build a driveway.

When clearing instead of pushing more than the tractor could handle I could grapple it with a backhoe thumb into manageable sizes?

What I dislike about my tractor the most is spinning out while using a box blade. Or trying to push more brush than it can handle on uneven terrain. What really drives me nuts is if I get a full bucket of dirt or rock the back tires come off the ground and I have to drag the bucket. Makes me feel like it's not a tractor or what i paid for. I do not want to repeat this. Everghting else is great about the current tractor.
Biggest thing leading me to a backhoe is the comments about a fel shouldn't be used as I've been using it. The drainage issues in my field would have to be hired out if I got something comparable to an MX because I'd never pay the price for a backhoe on an MX.
R1 tires
1,000 extra pounds
Backhoe
That has to be worth something for around the same payment.
If I hired out I'd say it would be multiple times and I'd always think of something new.
If this is a weak backhoe though and would be slow and take an hour per tree I believe I'd get frustrated, yes I understand it's not an excavator and would murder the ground in minutes. I feel 20 minutes is reasonable on 6" and under.

 

[ning]

Yes an MX could pull a 3" or 4" tree out of ground with a chain and handle the terrain better while working with loader. But if I had a backhoe would I even need a 4,000 pound tractor? I'd just dig everything out.

...

Rocks, my backhoe should handle them I would assume with ease.

I have a backhoe. I love it. But even if I've got it on the tractor, my preference is to yank stuff out of the ground rather than dig it out.

Why? Much smaller hole, and quicker job.

Plus, if the backhoe isn't on, I don't just think "oh that's so easy to swap"
It's not terrible, but it's way more effort than swapping SSQA attachments.

 

[Cranblue]

Alright so I've watched a lot of videos and priced a lot of tractors. I know this is smaller but for the same monthly payment as I have now I can get a L2501 with a backhoe. Yes an MX could pull a 3" or 4" tree out of ground with a chain and handle the terrain better while working with loader. But if I had a backhoe would I even need a 4,000 pound tractor? I'd just dig everything out. I like the idea of using a ripper and would expect good results on trees 6" diameter or less. My total projects of tree removal would be 3 acres along a path that a dozer made years ago. I would be widening it considerally and it probably totals 3 acres. 3 different trails in the woods. Advice wise at worst for 6" diameter tree how long would it take this setup to dig it out? If years, forget it I'll hire out.

Disc harrow would be used in a field that's already been tilled the previous year and only using the disc on tilled ground. From what I looked up I could pull around a 800 pound disc.

I do have drainage issues in the field from a collapsed culvert. I need to dig culvert out and backfill where it washed ground out into the field. I may also need to install drain tile.

Rocks, my backhoe should handle them I would assume with ease.

I would my box blade to till in the woods plots.

At some point I'll need to put in a another 18
inch culvert when I build a driveway.

When clearing instead of pushing more than the tractor could handle I could grapple it with a backhoe thumb into manageable sizes?

What I dislike about my tractor the most is spinning out while using a box blade. Or trying to push more brush than it can handle on uneven terrain. What really drives me nuts is if I get a full bucket of dirt or rock the back tires come off the ground and I have to drag the bucket. Makes me feel like it's not a tractor or what i paid for. I do not want to repeat this. Everghting else is great about the current tractor.
Biggest thing leading me to a backhoe is the comments about a fel shouldn't be used as I've been using it. The drainage issues in my field would have to be hired out if I got something comparable to an MX because I'd never pay the price for a backhoe on an MX.
R1 tires
1,000 extra pounds
Backhoe
That has to be worth something for around the same payment.
If I hired out I'd say it would be multiple times and I'd always think of something new.
If this is a weak backhoe though and would be slow and take an hour per tree I believe I'd get frustrated, yes I understand it's not an excavator and would murder the ground in minutes. I feel 20 minutes is reasonable on 6" and under.

Well when BH is on it should ballast your tractor so you can load front bucket.If BH is removed you’ll want ballast either liquid in rear tires,wheel weights or ballast box.On my L4701 I use ballast box when BH is removed.I run tractor around yard areas I mow with zero turn ruts are extra work and rough on mower.I have BH 92 a 6 “ tree stump is know where near 20 minutes like 5 of course on L2501 it’s smaller BH a 77 I believe??You should be fine with 2501 you know it’s limits take your time you and tractor will get work done.

 

[arrow]

I actually think using a loader to dig out rocks is a terrible idea!

A loader/tractor, is for loading and/or pulling...not digging!

This hill side came up to where the tractor's back tires are in this pic.
Based on your statement, I guess I have to put all of this dirt and rocks back then eh.
I just love it when people come up with statements on how others should use their equipment based on what they've read instead of what they've done.

 

[the old grind]

Big difference between having a killer tooth bar like arrow's and like my Ratchet Rake which would pale at the task shown, or none yet. Piranha Bar would be a boon for cutting a hill or a settled pile, another that IMO would excel vs what I chose for other stuff. btw, nice work.

Even w/o chains as the Deere has, for me the trick to cutting is to use the curl function alone to scratch (T-bar or not) and in either direction. This beats lunging with both FEL spools locked and bending a curl cylinder shaft or a loader arm. You have all the power your relief valve will give you and within design limits. Not fast but it'll do 'er.

btw, I have three buckets, two are SSQA. If I bought another T-bar I'd want what's on the Deere in arrow's pics. One mine is drilled for something similar. It'd be nice to just bolt that one on.

 

[arrow]

I keep feel like I’m missing something here. Why would you not just dig around a rock with the FEL, expose most of it, and pop it out of the ground. I keep seeing all this stuff about a grapple. A grapple isn’t going to pluck it out of the ground if most of its buried, maybe you can slide under and pluck it out. I’m not knocking a grapple, they are just pricey and I think for getting rocks out the FEL will work fine.

You ain't wrong. There were about six or seven rocks of this family within the hillside with this being the largest. There was no way this tractor was going to lift this rock out of its lair.
After I dug around this thing,
I had to chain this up and drag it out.
This entire hillside job took 15 hrs total to complete. It would have gone faster but for these stony rascals.

 

[arrow]

Big difference between having a killer tooth bar like arrow's and like my Ratchet Rake which would pale at the task shown, or none yet. Piranha Bar would be a boon for cutting a hill or a settled pile, another that IMO would excel vs what I chose for other stuff. btw, nice work.

Even w/o chains as the Deere has, for me the trick to cutting is to use the curl function alone to scratch (T-bar or not) and in either direction. This beats lunging with both FEL spools locked and bending a curl cylinder shaft or a loader arm. You have all the power your relief valve will give you and within design limits. Not fast but it'll do 'er.

btw, I have three buckets, two are SSQA. If I bought another T-bar I'd want what's on the Deere in arrow's pics. One mine is drilled for something similar. It'd be nice to just bolt that one on.

The tooth bar does make the 100% difference. Would have never attempted this job w/o it.

 

[Aquamoose]

I used my grapple to bite / pluck small boulders which weighs from 200 lbs upwards to 2,000 from a friend’s property. The benefit is I didn’t have to dig as the tines easily dug down to get under the rocks.

 

[thunder86]

Guys I've had more thoughts on this. I took my tractor to the dealership for trade in and getting quoted on a L3901 with backhoe and disc harrow.
I've got some more pictures of a washed area with a culvert that needs dug out and the wash out needs filled. I may put in drain tile also.
Before I do this would an MX with a subsoiler be able to trench for drain tile, 400 feet?
Also a guy I work with told I'd be surprised at how much dirt a box blade can move and that I would be able to fill in the washout with a box blade. This area is 5 feet wide, 4 feet deep, maybe go back 8 feet? It's next to a ridge so I have plenty of dirt. Also an old washed out trail that needs leveled here to grab dirt from. If I started at the top of the ridge and pulled dirt down how long would it take? Seems like it would take forever but I'm unsure. Box blade work with my b2601 is a disaster.
I have a 55 gallon water barrel I can fill and put on my box blade with the MX. I could pull small stumps with the subsoiler and break ground in wooded plots until I was comfortable using disc.

 

[thunder86]

Culvert collapsed, it's not very deep and I have no need to replace it.

 

[dodge man]

It looks like a natural creek to me, maybe it’s hard to tell in the picture.

 

[Reg]

A box blade is capable of anchoring practically any sized tractor if it catches large roots of boulders. A larger machine will have greater fel capacity, but I have yet to see a loader that couldn't be over loaded.
R4's do not excel in mud. Sounds like R1's would keep you from sliding around.
I guess my point is that a larger L series tractor has limitations also, and you should either take smaller bites at your tasks or buy larger and work within the machine's capability.

Kinda/sorta...
R4s a) can hold more fluid ballast than R1s
b) some times "float" vs "dig ruts" the way R1s (sometimes) do.

 

[thunder86]

It looks like a natural creek to me, maybe it’s hard to tell in the picture.

It is a natural creek. Years ago they put in a culvert to drive across the creek but it collapsed and backup the water which eventually washed out a rut into the field running down. It's not natural that it flows this way and the rut needs buried back and culvert pulled. This creek goes dry in the summer and I could work it during the dry months.