Natural gas?

[ultrarunner]

...Getting back to gas for a second, that boom that leveled a house a week or so ago... multiple companies are still looking for the leak as of this AM. The neighborhood is evacuated around the explosion, 50 homes, and they are thinking to expand the area of evacuation.

...back to the Heat Pump engineering and specs information.

Yes… and sadly the looters wasted no time taking advantage of the situation.

I’m storing several of the service trucks from the home that exploded to keep them safe.

All the gas work was in the street and had nothing to do with the home that exploded.

 

[oosik]

Our 20+ years in Alaska was with natural gas. Gas was dirt cheap - electricity was sky high.

Gas ran everything in the house except - lights, refrigerator and freezer. We never had a moments problem using natural gas. During the big quake of '94 - gas remained on - electricity went out.

Even our clothes dryer was natural gas. Had a Modine hanging space heater in the garage. Turn that thing on high and it would really roast your walnuts. After a 4WD run in the winter. Turn the space heater on high - melt all the ice build up on my Jeep - right pronto.

 

[ultrarunner]

Our 20+ years in Alaska was with natural gas. Gas was dirt cheap - electricity was sky high.

Gas ran everything in the house except - lights, refrigerator and freezer. We never had a moments problem using natural gas. During the big quake of '94 - gas remained on - electricity went out.

Even our clothes dryer was natural gas. Had a Modine hanging space heater in the garage. Turn that thing on high and it would really roast your walnuts. After a 4WD run in the winter. Turn the space heater on high - melt all the ice build up on my Jeep - right pronto.

Similar here where home electric service 120v 30 amp because all high demand was natural gas which traditionally was reasonable.

I’ve been in nearby homes that still had the gas light fixtures that were years ago converted to electric… Oakland CA

 

[DarkBlack]

The above system will give you 14,500 BTU/h of heat at -5F outside air temp.

Where are you getting that figure from?

10,900 BTU’s/h at +5F. -5F would be much worse.
Yes, I know that graph I posted was of heating capacity, but unless you or the factory posts an actual temperature of 100% efficiency, or at least a power consumption vs temperature chart, then I’d have to assume the power consumption is nameplate, and unity ( 100% efficiency) must be at/near the sudden drop in capacity.

Actual power consumption seems an elusive specification with this model.
What is the power consumption at 5F? 10,900 BTUs is time equal to 3.2 kw.
Is it drawing substantially less power than 3.2 kw? That’s the heat of 32 100w light bulbs.
@230 volts that would be 14 amps. Does the indoor and outdoor units combined draw less than that?

 

[rontaki]

Similar here where home electric service 120v 30 amp because all high demand was natural gas which traditionally was reasonable.

I’ve been in nearby homes that still had the gas light fixtures that were years ago converted to electric… Oakland CA

They're still gaslighting in our capitol buildings throughout the nation.

 

[Sigarms]

Where are you getting that figure from?

View attachment 5052231

10,900 BTU’s/h at +5F. -5F would be much worse.
Yes, I know that graph I posted was of heating capacity, but unless you or the factory posts an actual temperature of 100% efficiency, or at least a power consumption vs temperature chart, then I’d have to assume the power consumption is nameplate, and unity ( 100% efficiency) must be at/near the sudden drop in capacity.

Actual power consumption seems an elusive specification with this model.
What is the power consumption at 5F? 10,900 BTUs is time equal to 3.2 kw.
Is it drawing substantially less power than 3.2 kw? That’s the heat of 32 100w light bulbs.
@230 volts that would be 14 amps. Does the indoor and outdoor units combined draw less than that?

My information is from the up to date submittal sheet (new FX model) from Mitsubishi's technical website.

The issue on your end is you're using the RATED heating capacity and not the maximum heating capacity at @5F OAT because they don't list the maximum heating capacity. The old FH models go down to -13F OAT which is what "hyper heat" really means per Mitsubishi's "name brand marketing gimmick name" (they hit a home run with it though IMO).

You hit the nail on the head though when dealing with the Japanese. Each manufacturer does things a little different on how they present their info and how easy and how hard it is to find because each manufacturer does it differently on exactly where to pull that info.

We can go back and fourth all day long on this. What I can tell you from my own experience is if a Manual J is done correct, you chose the right system for heating, and it will heat all day long to 5F outside air temp. That said, we don't get many days below 0F OAT to see how the system actually performs for heating in our world.

You made me look. I have some questions on their engineering data that I'm questioning and now I'll have to call to find out why they are listing what I could consider conflicting info (unless I'm just reading it wrong).

 

[ning]

I have one. I have never used it. I used a stove top toaster years ago when I was camping, but that was more trouble than it was worth.

View attachment 5045658

I used a top-of-burner toaster for years growing up until we got a toaster oven.
Pros: Toasts really quick, so you tend to stick around paying attention to it, unlike an electric toaster.
Cons: Burns the %$!@% out of your bread. You want fire? That's how you get fire, use that toaster.

 

[RayIN]

I have one. I have never used it. I used a stove top toaster years ago when I was camping, but that was more trouble than it was worth.

View attachment 5045658

I agree. One of our daughters bought us a square broiler on a long handle. It works for many things; toast, hot dogs, steaks, burgers, even veggies if wanted, etc.
This stock picture has a short handle though.