My NX6010

[Scooby074]

What's the COO of the Ripper?

Looks like the ones on my Woods. I suspect, due to the roughness of my castings and overall low fit and finish that they are Chinese. If thats the case, it could be a case of chinese mystery metal.

 

[Scooby074]

What's the COO of the Ripper?

Looks like the ones on my Woods. I suspect, due to the roughness of my castings and overall low fit and finish that they are Chinese. If thats the case, it could be a case of chinese mystery metal.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Here are two more photos of the shank. The rusty bit is likely from my drooping it while trying to remove the upper broken bit from the box blade.

I'm far more concerned about the peening of the scarifier shank pockets. At the fold on the rearward bottom of the shank pocket, the metal becomes thinner, and is likely work-hardened from the bending process, making it weaker than in other areas of the shank pocket.

This photo shows how the paint is chipping off as the metal bends outward.

This is the worst of them and shows a crack has formed and is working upward.

Here we see the lefthand side

For those who believe that I'm beating the crap out of the tool, here is a video of everything I have done with the exception of an easement cut which is on a different video. From my perspective, I thought this was all easy work and of all the times I got snagged, it was on the blade itself which looks like new.

And for those who are wondering, yes, I did get the Christmas Tree over to the Ranch House.

 

[s219]

That looks like some very brittle metal on the ripper if it cracked and popped a little chunk out. Probably a low quality casting, or a casting not intended for this kind of stress.

The design of the shank pockets definitely has a weak spot where it's deforming. All the load will focus on that one spot, and has only the plate thickness to support it. I am guessing EA designed it this way to avoid cutting slots into the square tube. But the pocket needs more reinforcement behind the rear plate.

I have a pretty basic Howse box blade. The rippers slip through slots cut into that front square tube. While that probably reduces the stiffness of the square tube a little bit, it provides a bunch more support to the rippers -- there's probably about an inch of plate on edge behind each ripper.

I have only owned two tractors, and both relatively light Kubotas. Both will run out of steam or traction long before they could damage a box blade, especially in snowy/muddy conditions like you show. So I really doubt you're doing anything that could damage the box. I think the ripper was cast poorly, and I think those pockets need more than a plate thickness to support the rippers. Hopefully EA will comment.

 

[RDrancher]

Buy once, cry once. Shoulda bought that Gannon.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I think it was a design or manufacturing flaw in the shank personally.

I have used my 7ft box blade like crazy this year, snagging stumps, roots, bricks, boulders, etc. I've never broken a shank.

Today I graded about an acre size parking lot that was paved with asphalt millings. I used the shanks to break up the asphalt, much of it being solid patches. That's pulling in Med gear with 48 HP, up to around 7-8 mph.

I really doubt it was the cold...

How are the shanks held in on your Rhino box blade?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Buy once, cry once. Shoulda bought that Gannon.

I thought I was buying something comparable to the Gannon/Woods product and far superior to the 84" Howse box blade my Kioti dealer has in stock.

 

[TSO]

I can't believe how much the stake pockets are deforming. Far as I can tell, my box blade is either a rhino or JD. I got it used, so who knows how many hours it had before I got it, but I've probably put well over 100 hours of use on it this year, probably closer to 150, and it's still in excellent shape. I think there's a metal quality issue going on with that EA box.

 

[TSO]

How are the shanks held in on your Rhino box blade?

Thru the box ... I'll have to see if I have a pic in my phone, it's cold and dark outside right now lol

 

[RDrancher]

I thought I was buying something comparable to the Gannon/Woods product and far superior to the 84" Howse box blade my Kioti dealer has in stock.

Sorry, my comment was a bit harsh. I had less deformation of the tubing on my medium duty Bush Hog BB after a couple thousand hours of hard duty and sold it for $600. I bought my Gannon VERY used and I bet it will outlast my tractor. That closeup of the shank is also interesting. It looks to be cheaply made. Kinda surprising coming from EA, but I've never owned anything from them so maybe not.

 

[Green Power]

Maybe its time for you to weld up your own box blade Eric?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Sorry, my comment was a bit harsh. I had less deformation of the tubing on my medium duty Bush Hog BB after a couple thousand hours of hard duty and sold it for $600. I bought my Gannon VERY used and I bet it will outlast my tractor. That closeup of the shank is also interesting. It looks to be cheaply made. Kinda surprising coming from EA, but I've never owned anything from them so maybe not.

For the record, having watched their videos, I thought I purchased an excellent quality, durable and strong product that would outlast my tractor. Now looking at photos, I'm starting to wonder of the CAT2 hangers aren't also bending or if they were welded a little crooked.

I cannot get to EA website as it has a malware problems which explains some issues I've had with my Mac computer like my FB account getting hacked, the computer thinking it likes Arabic and my total fear of hammering in account numbers and passwords. Update: I updated my malware software and scanned. Everything Attachments should follow this link and fix the malware: https://www.stopbadware.org/webmaster-help

 

[oldpilgrim]

As to my comment that it looks like a casting. I would not expect a casting for that part. I would expect it to be a forged piece.

 

[ksbrdmkr]

Might take a look at the front top of the holding box. The bottom will deform until the top also hits so both top and bottom of the shank hit the BB frame.

 

[s219]

As to my comment that it looks like a casting. I would not expect a casting for that part. I would expect it to be a forged piece.

Agreed. Though maybe not surprising.

 

[Threepoint]

Eric, wow, your close-up of the shank pocket showing the peening is a real shocker. Agree that it's more concerning than the broken shank, which is easily replaced and may just be a one-off metallurgical flaw.

I've attached a close-up of my Woods BSM84 box blade. The bottom and back of the shank pocket is formed as one piece, but from 1/2" steel. What is the thickness on the EA pocket? Looks like it may be 5/16", or maybe 3/8", as it's thinner than your side plates, which I think are 1/2".



My 5' Howse hinged bb for my little B2150 is down at the barn, so I don't have a pic of it. But, just as s219 described on his Howse, its shanks fit into cut-outs in the heavy square tubing of the upper cross member. I've worked those shanks pretty hard over the years, with no deformation, although the B2150 is only 24 hp (derated to 22 hp due to HST).

When I bought my Woods BSM84 earlier this year, I researched alternatives as best I could. The BSM84 is rated by Woods as only a medium-duty blade, but to me it seemed very robust compared to some of the other blades out there that claim to be heavy duty, extreme duty, etc. I think vendors sometimes get carried away with the marketing superlatives (nothing new there!).

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric, wow, your close-up of the shank pocket showing the peening is a real shocker. Agree that it's more concerning than the broken shank, which is easily replaced and may just be a one-off metallurgical flaw.

I've attached a close-up of my Woods BSM84 box blade. The bottom and back of the shank pocket is formed as one piece, but from 1/2" steel. What is the thickness on the EA pocket? Looks like it may be 5/16", or maybe 3/8", as it's thinner than your side plates, which I think are 1/2".

View attachment 399067

My 5' Howse hinged bb for my little B2150 is down at the barn, so I don't have a pic of it. But, just as s219 described on his Howse, its shanks fit into cut-outs in the heavy square tubing of the upper cross member. I've worked those shanks pretty hard over the years, with no deformation, although the B2150 is only 24 hp (derated to 22 hp due to HST).

When I bought my Woods BSM84 earlier this year, I researched alternatives as best I could. The BSM84 is rated by Woods as only a medium-duty blade, but to me it seemed very robust compared to some of the other blades out there that claim to be heavy duty, extreme duty, etc. I think vendors sometimes get carried away with the marketing superlatives (nothing new there!).

I have the Woods 2013 catalog and in 2014 Woods changed all of the model numbers, but I was looking at an 80" 4x4 Gannon without a tailgate or hydraulic shanks (Woods/Gannon makes a distinction in their 2x4 and 4x4 versions).

From your photo, the difference in the Woods stake pocket, from appearances anyway, is that Woods isn't pinching down and stretching the metal in order to form the 90 degree bend and maintains a consistent thickness of metal throughout the bend. In other words, Woods has a larger radius in the corner that doesn't stress the metal as much. To me, when EA made the stake pocket, the inside bend is a straight up 90 degree bend with no radius so as to avoid having a radiused "tab" poking into the stake pocket. If my conjecture is right, this is something EA can fix pretty easy by increasing the corner radius so as to not stress the metal.

That all said, Everything Attachments wants the blade back and I image they will do their own looksey. Speaking of: Travis, I called YRC in Burnsville, MN and they have a banding machine to secure the blade to a pallet, and so I'll get the blade down to them when I get back from northern MN in the first week of December.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Woods/Gannon on right, Everything Attachments on the left.

Looking at the difference in the Woods design, it looks like Woods doesn't bear the load on the heel whatsoever, whereas the EA design must use more metal in order to hold the load on the heel.

 

[94BULLITT]

That all said, Everything Attachments wants the blade back and I image they will do their own looksey. Speaking of: Travis, I called YRC in Burnsville, MN and they have a banding machine to secure the blade to a pallet, and so I'll get the blade down to them when I get back from northern MN in the first week of December.

Are you getting another box blade or are they going to beef this one up?

 

[whis]

You need to find an older gannon blade that has the teeth that fold up or down, can be hyd or manual. YOU WON"T BREAK IT